Tony's B4 Project

[ToddA1]

PP520s and a Malone 20psi tune is the setup I'm running, and it's a good balance for the car. I'm going to try an 11mm ALH pump I have socked away on the car soon, but longevity on the engine and tranny are concerns.

From what I've read, an 11mm pump isn't required by most. The excess fuel will just be excess fuel, until the fire is really turned up and most times, upgraded internals will be needed.

I picked up an 11 pump recently, because the price was right, but will it ever be necessary...?

-Todd

 

[Abacus]

I am maxing out my stock pump with just the PP520's, but then it does have almost 432,000 miles on it. I've thought about picking up an 11mm pump for when I go to the GT2052 and FMIC.

I have a spare complete engine bay assembly (everything attached to the K-frame) in the barn, and another complete engine in large component pieces. It gives me great peace of mind.

 

[ToddA1]

How do you gauge when you've maxed the 10mm pump out... no smoke at WOT?

I've got a rear ended TDI Passat sitting in the drive way, that's being slowly stripped. Last night I had the revelation this would be the perfect opportunity to fab up the rear mount bracket required for the 2052 swap, while I have the engine bay still somewhat intact.

-Todd

 

[Abacus]

No, the fuel pump reads around 50 mg/str at WOT. I can get the exact reading off my VCDS logs, but I remember it being maxed out or very very close.

 

[TonyJetta]

So, I've been enjoying the Titan 502 nozzles for the last 3 weeks, after replacing them, and the MAF. Car's been running great!

Until I started it this morning.

I haven't been too happy with the amount of smoke from what I assumed was the nozzles. However, it seemed to be intermittent. At times there would be more smoke than other times. Similar driving conditions / style, etc.

This morning, I turn the key for what is the normal cranking time, and it doesn't start. OK...cycle the key and try again. This time I let it crank a little longer.
So, it started...seemed like it was starting on a 30F morning. Not 70F, like it was! So, I've either got a cylinder that has lower compression, or the crank gear is moving. Foprtunately, the wind was blowing in the right direction...I saw a little gray smoke.

I shut it right down and proceeded to move everything over to the truck.

My suspicion is that the Timing Belt crank pulley is moving, and subsequently needs to be replaced, and likely that the crank snout needs to be cleaned up.

Anyone have a crank yank tool and/or a crank machining tool to loan?

Tony

 

[TonyJetta]

I just saw that I never updated this thread...
The crank pulley bokt was literally hand tight.
The crank pulley had some movement, which is why the engine did not want to start. However, judging by the condition of the crank, the pulley only recently loosened up.
I took about 30 minutes with a flat file to clean up the face of the crank. I did not want to rush it.

One thing I have noticed is the clutch doesn't chatter as much, if at all when engaging.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[TonyJetta]

Latest issue: Low beam headlights don't work.

High beams do work.
Checked fuses - good
Replaced headlight switch - no help. But, this is inconclusive since I am unsure of the condition of the replacement headlight switch.
The turn signal stalk switch was replaced about a year ago with a new unit, due to the turn signals not working. So I have a high degree of confidence that it is working.

Friday after work is the earliest I'll be able to dig into the troubleshooting. In the mean time I have been scouring the wiring diagrams to come up with a troubleshooting plan.

I have done some research: It looks like the likely culprit is the ignition switch. Although, I need to scour the wiring diagrams to confirm this, and back it up with troubleshooting.

Tony

 

[TonyJetta]

Oddly enough, both bulbs failed. One had the typical filament meltdown in the middle. The other had the entire filament structure fracture at the base, as it passed through the glass seal.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[Digital Corpus]

My headlights usually fail within a week of each other. I'm using a Eruowires relayed harness so I'm a 14.4 V for any lamp I put in which reduced the bulb life too.

 

[TonyJetta]

Well, it was my turn to crunch my B4. Thankfully, no injuries. Now I'm looking for a straight body donor vehicle, or one that has rear end damage. From what I can tell, it's all the bolt on front end parts. More details to come over the next week.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[Abacus]

Damn...will you people STOP doing that!

 

[TonyJetta]

Damn...will you people STOP doing that!

Well...ok. ;-)

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[TonyJetta]

Last weekend I picked up a '95 Vr6 GLX. The car is in pretty good shape overall. No major body issues, just a seized motor!

So far, it's slow going. Pulled the left side fenders off both cars.
Other parts are tricking in.
I will be parting this car out. I'll have a separate thread in the parts for sale section, as I get parts together for sale.

Got a new radiator, and piecing the fan module together. Will probably use the condenser from the donor.

More updates as they happen.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[Mcgink]

Last weekend I picked up a '95 Vr6 GLX. The car is in pretty good shape overall. No major body issues, just a seized motor!

So far, it's slow going. Pulled the left side fenders off both cars.
Other parts are tricking in.
I will be parting this car out. I'll have a separate thread in the parts for sale section, as I get parts together for sale.

Got a new radiator, and piecing the fan module together. Will probably use the condenser from the donor.

More updates as they happen.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

Hopefully you'll get some bonus goodies from your parts car Tony. When I rebuilt "I-Red" from a deer strike, I got a VR6 parts car with 120K mi with a blown rack and stuck rear calipers. "Kandy" gave me a sweet black interior complete with heated frt seats. I did a full interior swap that converted "I-Red" from Sahara cloth to black leather.

 

[TonyJetta]

Mcgink,
Yes, I am planning to upgrade my Passat. I'd like to move up to ABS, 5-lug/big brakes, and the MFA conversion.

Unfortunately, it has black cloth interior. Although, it appears they are in better condition than mine. In the desert, I am not too interested in the black interior. The headliner cloth is delaminating. The carpet is torn, particularly at the drivers' feet. My door cards are in better shape.

Tony

 

[TonyJetta]

So, I finally got the Passat finished off yesterday. Just bolt on sheetmetal, plastic parts and the cooling module that needed to be replaced. The car appears to have a few more noises.

I recharged the AC, but it appears to be only getting down to 50F on an 80F day. Not as good as I had hoped. So, I may be installing a new AC kit and condenser in May.

In the coming weeks, I'll be parting out the '95 GLX parts car. It is nice being able to walk over to the donor to remove a part that I need, then walking back over to my car to install it!

Tony

 

[TonyJetta]

Some updates that I haven't posted:

• July 4th - Replaced rear Brakes
• August 2nd - Replaced Front Brakes
• September 6th - Broke the front to back shifter eye @ the transmission. Appears to be a fracture in the metal
• September 7th - Replace the shifter box with a spare, reinstalling the dieselgeek short shifter.

I had noticed recently that 1st & reverse were getting close.



Now it shifts like it's supposed to!


I've had enough! Time for a break!

Tony

 

[honda_vtec2]

Some updates that I haven't posted:

• July 4th - Replaced rear Brakes
• August 2nd - Replaced Front Brakes
• September 6th - Broke the front to back shifter eye @ the transmission. Appears to be a fracture in the metal
• September 7th - Replace the shifter box with a spare, reinstalling the dieselgeek short shifter.

I had noticed recently that 1st & reverse were getting close.



Now it shifts like it's supposed to!


I've had enough! Time for a break!

Tony

After all that work Tony, you should take a break in Hawaii.

 

[TonyJetta]

After all that work Tony, you should take a break in Hawaii.

Don't tease!

I would much rather have a beer in my hand and my feet in the sand!

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Have you been having good luck w/ your last a/c system replacement? I think I'll be doing mine next year(summer's over),and it looks like I'll be needing drier,condensor,possibly compressor(noticed a little weeping on housing).Where did you end up getting it from?

 

[TonyJetta]

I'm still using the compressor I bought from boraparts.Com 3 years ago.

I'm only getting 50f temp out the center vent when ambient temps are above 85F. I should be at 40-45F.

I have a new expansion valve and drier. I'll consider installing them in the coming weeks, as time becomes available.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[ToddA1]

If you're seeing 40-45° on high speed, that's great. I normally flush the system when replacing a drier, which makes it a drawn out process. Do you just swap and vacuum?

-Todd

 

[TonyJetta]

No, I flushed the system.

When monitoring pressures, I don't see the expansion valve cycling.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[TonyJetta]

Posting this for future reference:

The part number for the fan/serpentine belt cover: 3A0825254B

You will also need 1 or 2 (I forget) screws to secure it to the inner fenderwell. The plastic inserts should be there.

Also, you may have to remove the plastic (dummy) insert from the lower radiator support...when you get the skirt, you'll see a piece of plastic that sticks out by ~1-2". That piece of plastic snaps into the lower radiator support.

 

[TonyJetta]

Lately, I've been having what seems like issues associated with the case pressure relief valve.

Symptoms:
1) >3500 rpm in 1st gear, the pump will deplete the reservoir of enough fuel to run on 3 cylinders until fuel is replenished in the pump, then runs normal.
2) Recently, >3500 rpm in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear, in the recent colt temps, the pump will deplete the reservoir of enough fuel to run on 3 cylinders until fuel is replenished in the pump, then runs normal.
3) Recently, >2500 rpm WOT in 4th, the power feels flat when the ambient temps are cold (<50F)

Symptoms have gotten worse in the last week, seemingly associated with colder temps over the last 2 weeks. Most notably, symptoms 2 and 3 have surfaced.

I have replaced the fuel filter 2x in the last 2 weeks, just to make sure it's not fuel filter related. I have also recently removed the supply side check valve at the fuel tank. I was poking at it, when it snapped apart, committing me to removing it. Given that I live in a hilly area, I think I am going to replace it with a brass part, but relocate it to the hose that feeds the fuel filter.

Keep in mind, this is southern AZ: Anything <60F is cold to us!

I am thinking I need to look into the case pressure relief valve, that jsrmonster talks about in this thread and that Drivbiwire details in this thread. The symptoms seem quite similar to those discussed in this thread.

Tony

 

[Yblocker]

They can be tricky to get loose. I managed to get mine with an open end but I used a feeler gauge as a shim to take up the bit of slop so as not to round off the flats. It came loose with a pop!

 

[Abacus]

I have only had one case where this would not work...

...it was on tdidieselbobny's B4, when this happened. And it was with the QA off so the flats were firmly on the CPRV and not at an angle like the picture above.

 

[Yblocker]

That looks like how I did it too.

 

[TonyJetta]

Thanks fellas!

I'll get into it tonight.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[TonyJetta]

I pulled the relief valve, and had it installed in all of 5 minutes. The retaining collar was about 1/2 out. But, it was clean, like new! Absolutely no corrosion.

Went for a drive....same issue; Maybe a little improvement.

Scanned the ECU when I got home.
1 code:
00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71)
28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

I'm wondering id the boost sensor is on it;s way out, or if the ECU is on it's way out.

Something else I remembered...About 3 weeks ago, I replaced the cabin filter, and found an oily rag on the connector side of the ECU. Not an issue for the ECU, but the silicone boost pressure hose at the ECU was rotted. I replaced the hose. Now the exhaust seemed a little less smokey.

I'm now thinking the wastegate actuator needs to be checked out, to make sure it moves on command.

The scan also revealed the IQ is at 28! Time for hammer mod!

I'll see if I can run logs after the hammer mod tomorrow.

That's enough for tonight.