Question about which engine code to use when checking timing....it seems a little confusing to me.
One is called "Post 03/1999" and the other is called "Pre 04/1999"...I have a 2001 Jetta...it would seem Pre 04/1999 would be the choice, but why is there a post 03/1999? Post 03 would be PD and my understanding is that the TDI timing graph doesn't work for that engine.
Anyway, here is my timing on those two graphs. Would you guys mess with this or leave it? I have maybe a slightly rough idle, but not bad. Timing belt has about 30k miles on it.
OK Out with my Laptop trying to check the timing with Registered VagCom Lite. Get the graphs and all but my car or engine code does not seem to be present. 2000 NB 1.9L 5 speed... all I have checked show the timing on or very close to the Blue line.
I have a 2000 Jetta TDI with timing problems. Right now, the timing is about 150 and the Jetta runs well. When I reduce the timing to just below the green line, it still runs well; until I try to start it in the morning. It just won't start until I change the timing back to about 150. I do get the CEL when at 150. Any ideas?
... How you might be able to make timing changes more easily...!
Although NOT new to working on VW VE TDI engines, I am still new at using the ROSS-Tech system... and I have read this THREAD on changing TIMING with great interest. Time and again I have seen the several YouTube videos where timing is adjusted back-and-forth several times... before finally the presenter gets it somewhat close to the center line and (in a sense calls it quits because this adjustment is so difficult!).
Here is my idea that I would like to see what others (with more experience at this than me) think of this. My idea is based on the notion that IF you can either find an extra long 22mm open-end or flat boxed-end wrench or somehow effectively attach an extension onto the wrench. IF done, I think this could dramatically make this adjustment easier to get it set where you want it!
For instance I attached my present longest "Vice-Grip" locking pliers onto my only 22mm wrench and I estimate this gives me ~ a 50% increase in the length of what is a physics problem of a "lever pivoting around a fulcrum" and I know that you have greater power/control with a longer lever !
I'm really interested in whether anyone finds this works for them... and IF it does, I think the ultimate adjusting tool (say for shop use) would be an extra-long 22mm boxed-end wrench that is ~30-inches in length. The reason I say it should be "boxed-end" is because this would allow you to have and use many more angles of attachment of the wrench/tool on the IP's large nut... whereas the open-end wrench has only 2 positions... and this could be important as the length of the tool is longer... and longer!
I hope to try my Vice-grip extension soon and I'm hoping that even the small extension should allow the adjustment to be made with greater control and thus easier to finally get the adjustment you want!
A final thought... I think one factor that makes this adjustment difficult with a standard-lenght 22mm wrench and that is the fact that how tight you leave the three 13mm bolts on the IP's pulley... and getting these just right makes a lot of difference when you "push" or "pull" to make the adjustment change. IMHO, with a 22mm that has much longer leverage, this factor becomes less of a problem !
It's the TDIGraph GUI which has a potentially confusing convention in the combo box label and titling.
When the greater-than symbol is used in an expression or label, often some of us (if strange like me) interpret that as a mathematical inequality, infix meaning the term to the left of the > operator is greater (than whatever could be a term at the right side).
It came to me later that these labels/titles are using < and > as directional cues, < meaning leftward into the past and > meaning rightward into future.
So with my 2002 ALH this would be a correct choice, as far as my latest belief (look for the ">" in the following title): 1.9l R4 TDI AGR/AHF/ALH/ASV (05/1999>)