Timing belt skip tooth

two passat man

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2012
Location
montana
TDI
2013 passat black on black
I had my 2014 Passat TDI in shop for a timing belt replacement. I picked it up and drove 7 miles and it just died. Would struggle when trying to restart. Shop had it towed and checked it out. This is what I got sent this morning. Is car going to be good or should I sell it as soon as I get it back?

Just got the diagnosis from my technician. The nut on the timing tensioner backed out and it jumped time. He tightened everything to OEM spec and even double checked it because he felt it wasn’t tight enough from his experience but the components are aluminum and he didn’t want to break anything so he just trusted VWs spec guide lines instead of going with his instincts. It’s not really anyone’s fault, just extremely unfortunate luck. We will be ordering valves and a head gasket set and will start on that as soon as the parts get here. We will take care of everything for this job. It’s 17 hours so it’ll take a little time. I apologize for this inconvenience. When we finish this job my technician said you will need to drive it gently while everything breaks in. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
 

AverageAndy

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2020
Location
Phoenix, AZ
TDI
2013 Passat TDI SEL, 2013 Golf TDI 6MT, 2013 Jetta TDI 6MT (R.I.P.)
It may be fine or there may be more damage. They won't know until they get into it.

Most important, the shop is being upfront and trying to make it right.

If you were planning on keeping it before, I'd probably stick with that plan if they get it running right.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Bunch of special tools required to unload the cam carrier on the CR TDIs. It isn't as simple as the older engines. This may end worse than it already is.
 

privateTDIjet

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2022
Location
Montreal, Canada
TDI
2009 Jetta 2.0 TDI and 2014 Passat 2.0 TDI / Ive got a MK5 bentley manual, message me for a free diagram
I had my 2014 Passat TDI in shop for a timing belt replacement. I picked it up and drove 7 miles and it just died. Would struggle when trying to restart. Shop had it towed and checked it out. This is what I got sent this morning. Is car going to be good or should I sell it as soon as I get it back?

Just got the diagnosis from my technician. The nut on the timing tensioner backed out and it jumped time. He tightened everything to OEM spec and even double checked it because he felt it wasn’t tight enough from his experience but the components are aluminum and he didn’t want to break anything so he just trusted VWs spec guide lines instead of going with his instincts. It’s not really anyone’s fault, just extremely unfortunate luck. We will be ordering valves and a head gasket set and will start on that as soon as the parts get here. We will take care of everything for this job. It’s 17 hours so it’ll take a little time. I apologize for this inconvenience. When we finish this job my technician said you will need to drive it gently while everything breaks in. If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask.
Did the timing belt myself and tightened everything according to my gut. This post made me realise im driving a bomb 😅
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2002 Golf 6MT; 2015 Sportwagen 6MT; 2016 A3 e-tron 6DSG
He tightened everything to OEM spec and even double checked it because he felt it wasn’t tight enough from his experience but the components are aluminum and he didn’t want to break anything
Wait...what?!
What exactly is aluminum? The tensioner stud is steel. The nut is steel. Those are the only things in play.
Torque spec is 20Nm + 45°. (Imagine a 15lb. dumbbell at the end of a 1ft lever - that's not nothing. PLUS 45° after that.)
And for reference, the Mk4 ALH cars have a torque spec on that tensioner nut that's only 20Nm - no extra 45°. And it's the same M8x1.25 stud/nut threading. And those hold for 100K miles without issue.)

If the mechanic did that, no way it "backed out" after only 7 miles (or 7000 or 70000miles for that matter). And if they were concerned that it felt "light", freakin' remove the nut, add some loc-tite, and re-do it.

Someone's covering their butt. Methinks they re-used the nut that had been overtightened before and partially stripped.
 
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