Timing Belt Issue

[Garrett0153]

Hey y’all. I have okay experience with cars but I’m still pretty new, and this is my first TDI. I have a 2013 VW Passat TDI SE at around 120,000 miles and about 2 months ago I got into a small fender bender that bent my radiator a little bit. Bit after my water pump started leaking a little, and then a lot. I don’t think the radiator being bent had to do with my water pump leaking. Anyways, I just got my hands on the funds to replace the timing belt, water pump, etc. and got it all done besides the radiator. Nothing is leaking anymore but now she ain’t starting. Was running perfectly before this work. I don’t have VCDS but was able to pull two codes, P020B cylinder injection timing, and P020D cylinder injection timing. I’m stumped because I am pretty confident that everything is in time. I mean, maybe not? Although, I do not own the crankshaft lock. I do get flashing glow plug light only after trying to start it. I have been able to start the car 3 times after the replacement and was able to drive it two of the times. Nothing sounds like it’s knocking, and once the car starts it drives and sounds perfectly fine, other than a slight roughness on acceleration in neutral between 800-1000 rpm. There should be no air in the fuel lines as I have started it and did not remove or play with the fuel lines. The only thing I have noticed is that the fuel timing is ranging between -4 to 15 when started. I have no idea if that is normal or not. Hopefully someone has an idea because I’m stumped.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Who did the TB job? Dealer, independent mechanic, DIY? Problem is more than likely connected to that job.

 

[Garrett0153]

I figured it was connected to it in some way, I just don’t know where to go from here. I did the timing belt job myself.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Got to be done wrong or out of time. Running before and not after. Go back and recheck/redo everything again paying extra attention to the procedure. What are you using for directions? There is a specific procedure and tools to be used along with a complete kit for the TB. It doesn't react well being done wrong.

 

[Garrett0153]

How far off would it have to be for it to act like this? I have checked and re done things probably more than five times now. I stopped messing with the crank/cam sprockets since the codes pointed to maybe me just having the fuel pump timing off a little bit. But still nothing. I’m using the my turbo diesel YouTube video for directions and bought the full TB kit. I have everything besides the crank lock tool and I’m using accurate sized drill bits as the cam/fuel pump pins.

 

[Lightflyer1]

Sounds like you have and are doing the right things. Still, working before and not now is most likely something you have missed.

 

[pedroYUL]

At some point you will have to take the valve cover off and have a look. I have not done it on these newer cars, apparently that on itself is pretty involved, but it will be the only way to tell if you had valve/piston contact.

I read that on these DOHC engines, the cam rockers will get destroyed in the case of valve/piston contact. It will be pretty obvious if you take the valve cover off.....or a compression test will also resolve the mystery.

 

[Garrett0153]

I might have to take a look at that. Thank you. Since my last update I got the car to start every time now. It seemed that my crank gear was half a tooth off. My stupid self thought I didn’t need the T10050 crankshaft stop. But I do, so I have to order it to make it perfect. I don’t believe there has been any damage to the engine. I’ve read that you can be as far off as 4 teeth on this engine before contact between anything. Now I have to get that tool and find someone with VCDS to fine tune injection timing. The car starts every time but shows up with P020A cylinder 1 injection timing and I’m hearing a ticking noise on acceleration from the HPFP I believe. I hope I didn’t break anything.