Timing Belt Doable DIY?

[Aglowing]

I've got a 2013 Jetta Sportwagen coming up on 130k miles and my belts looking like its starting to crack, not many shops in my area work on VWs at all and the ones that do I have been given all over the place quotes or they require it to be "diagnosed" in person. I was quoted $3800 by one shop about an hour south, and $800-$1600, both rough estimates the employee was not confident on, given by the dealer. I believe that I am not a total fool when it comes to engines, certainly not an expert and I have read here and heard that the CJAA ( I believe the engine in my car) is not too difficult to change. I am up for wasting a day if it means I can save at the minimum $300 and learn something new. I am planning on going with the diesel geek kit if I do DIY it. I am curious if anyone else could share their experience with this job and tell me is it worth the extra money or if I follow the guide and go slowly and check my work can I save myself some money. Also, another reason I am uneasy about bringing it into a shop is because nobody around here really knows what a TDI is so I am skeptical of if they will do good work or not.

For those who have tried the diesel geek way, avoiding dropping the motor mount and just replacing the tensioner has it actually saved time and is it difficult to work with the mount in the way?

 

[bmwM5power]

it is not that difficult to do at all, just watch some videos on youtube , play it in your head how youre going to perform this, get the good TB kit with all of the replacement bolts in there, buy some locking tools and dont rush, make sure you tension the tensioner the right way and torque everything up to specs, double check your work before you start it. I believe if you buy the kit from dieselgeek it comes with the nice DIY tutorial video. from what I can see the only thing missing in that kit is the engine mount bolts that you will need

Deluxe Common Rail Timing Belt Kit for 2009-2014 Golf, Jetta, Beetle and Audi A3

Free Fedex Ground shipping in the USA! yes, in stock. BONUS! Receive our full detail video instructions delivered by email free w/ purchase! $39 value! Deluxe 18 piece timing belt kit for 2.0 liter VW Common Rail diesel engines found in Golf and Jetta TDI from 2009-2014, Audi A3 from...

dieselgeek.com

https://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit-cbea-cjaa-03l109119f-p-2222.html

 

[Aglowing]

it is not that difficult to do at all, just watch some videos on youtube , play it in your head how youre going to perform this, get the good TB kit with all of the replacement bolts in there, buy some locking tools and dont rush, make sure you tension the tensioner the right way and torque everything up to specs, double check your work before you start it. I believe if you buy the kit from dieselgeek it comes with the nice DIY tutorial video. from what I can see the only thing missing in that kit is the engine mount bolts that you will need

Deluxe Common Rail Timing Belt Kit for 2009-2014 Golf, Jetta, Beetle and Audi A3

Free Fedex Ground shipping in the USA! yes, in stock. BONUS! Receive our full detail video instructions delivered by email free w/ purchase! $39 value! Deluxe 18 piece timing belt kit for 2.0 liter VW Common Rail diesel engines found in Golf and Jetta TDI from 2009-2014, Audi A3 from...

dieselgeek.com

https://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit-cbea-cjaa-03l109119f-p-2222.html

I believe it does not come with the engine mount bolts because they have figured a way out of this by replacing the tensioner

 

[bmwM5power]

I believe it does not come with the engine mount bolts because they have figured a way out of this by replacing the tensioner

you actually need to remove the mount to remove/install the belt

 

[Aglowing]

you actually need to remove the mount to remove/install the belt

Ok I looked into it and its done by just removing the tensioner stud and putting it back in instead of removing the mount

 

[oilhammer]

This is not a particularly difficult job, but there are some nuances that I think often get overlooked. I'd not recommend the CJAA be your very first timing belt change.

And that mount is so cake easy to take out of the way, I have no idea why anyone would want to bother with any shortcutting on that front.

But people short cut things all the time. And they screw these things up all the time. Too many threads here "I changed my timing belt and now my car won't start".

 

[Aglowing]

This is not a particularly difficult job, but there are some nuances that I think often get overlooked. I'd not recommend the CJAA be your very first timing belt change.

And that mount is so cake easy to take out of the way, I have no idea why anyone would want to bother with any shortcutting on that front.

But people short cut things all the time. And they screw these things up all the time. Too many threads here "I changed my timing belt and now my car won't start".

Is there any particular reason you'd avoid doing a CJAA for my first job? I guess considering its my first it would be smart to follow what everyone else says, would you know what motor mount bolts I need? The diesel geek kit seems to be the best by far it just does not have motor mount bolts so Id have to order them separately

 

[oilhammer]

Because as far as "four cylinder timing belts" are concerned, this is a pretty finicky one. It isn't like a 2.3L in an '84 Ranger. Where if you do something wrong, the very worst that could happen is you have to call a tow truck and redo it. With the CJAA engine, you screw something up, you could be replacing the engine.

It's impossible to know your skillset from a couple posts over the internet. I've been working on cars since before TDIs were even a thing. My first Volkswagen diesel timing belt was a 1979 Rabbit, which had no A/C, no P/S, and was a pretty easy thing to do. Those "basics" evolve as the engines evolve, so that by the time the CJAA came along, which is WAY more complicated than that old Rabbit was, I was able to apply that stacked knowledge on so it isn't all that strange.

If you have a decent set of skills, the proper tools, allot yourself ample time, and follow the directions, it isn't an awful job. But I'm doing stuff like this every day, too:

 

[Aglowing]

Because as far as "four cylinder timing belts" are concerned, this is a pretty finicky one. It isn't like a 2.3L in an '84 Ranger. Where if you do something wrong, the very worst that could happen is you have to call a tow truck and redo it. With the CJAA engine, you screw something up, you could be replacing the engine.

It's impossible to know your skillset from a couple posts over the internet. I've been working on cars since before TDIs were even a thing. My first Volkswagen diesel timing belt was a 1979 Rabbit, which had no A/C, no P/S, and was a pretty easy thing to do. Those "basics" evolve as the engines evolve, so that by the time the CJAA came along, which is WAY more complicated than that old Rabbit was, I was able to apply that stacked knowledge on so it isn't all that strange.

If you have a decent set of skills, the proper tools, allot yourself ample time, and follow the directions, it isn't an awful job. But I'm doing stuff like this every day, too:

And how much would you say ballpark for a timing belt change? One shop quoted 1600 but 740 for parts alone seems real steep considering I can get everything for around 400 on reputable sites.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I've got a 2013 Jetta Sportwagen coming up on 130k miles and my belts looking like its starting to crack, not many shops in my area work on VWs at all and the ones that do I have been given all over the place quotes or they require it to be "diagnosed" in person. I was quoted $3800 by one shop about an hour south, and $800-$1600, both rough estimates the employee was not confident on, given by the dealer. I believe that I am not a total fool when it comes to engines, certainly not an expert and I have read here and heard that the CJAA ( I believe the engine in my car) is not too difficult to change. I am up for wasting a day if it means I can save at the minimum $300 and learn something new. I am planning on going with the diesel geek kit if I do DIY it. I am curious if anyone else could share their experience with this job and tell me is it worth the extra money or if I follow the guide and go slowly and check my work can I save myself some money. Also, another reason I am uneasy about bringing it into a shop is because nobody around here really knows what a TDI is so I am skeptical of if they will do good work or not.

For those who have tried the diesel geek way, avoiding dropping the motor mount and just replacing the tensioner has it actually saved time and is it difficult to work with the mount in the way?

I do it without removing the engine mount, but I do have fairly long fingers. I have done both ways and prefer the dieselgeek method using the dieselgeek locking tools.
I have seen so many screw-ups on timing though too, a lot of them from shops who even claimed to know what they were doing... but for some reason there are a lot of guys who think they can do better than the designers and just mark the belt and slap it on, since it works for some other vehicles...

 

[Tuheeden]

Ok I looked into it and its done by just removing the tensioner stud and putting it back in instead of removing the mount

It's quite easy to remove the one bolt without removing the motor mount, so no issue there.
It's not a bad job really HOWEVER even if you mark the old belt and the crank/cam gears (which I highly recommend) that does NOT team you crank to cam timing will be perfect (you will know because you car will start then stop and throw a code). My advice is put the belt on exactly as the old, adjust the tensioner and turn everything by hand, then making sure the tensioner is set correct, lock the crank and check the cam. You may have to loosen the 3 cam bolts and turn the cam I little bit so the cam lock pin lines up perfectly. Then button it up.
You will need some tools like triple square bits, lock tools, torque wrench - just to name a few that come to mind. But worth purchasing if you plan on maintaining it yourself.
Lots to learn on your first one so plan on a full day and likely two in case you need a trip or two to the parts store...

 

[Mozambiquer]

It's quite easy to remove the one bolt without removing the motor mount, so no issue there.
It's not a bad job really HOWEVER even if you mark the old belt and the crank/cam gears (which I highly recommend) that does NOT team you crank to cam timing will be perfect (you will know because you car will start then stop and throw a code). My advice is put the belt on exactly as the old, adjust the tensioner and turn everything by hand, then making sure the tensioner is set correct, lock the crank and check the cam. You may have to loosen the 3 cam bolts and turn the cam I little bit so the cam lock pin lines up perfectly. Then button it up.
You will need some tools like triple square bits, lock tools, torque wrench - just to name a few that come to mind. But worth purchasing if you plan on maintaining it yourself.
Lots to learn on your first one so plan on a full day and likely two in case you need a trip or two to the parts store...

No, just get the cam and crank locks and do it right.

 

[Nuje]

I agree with @bmwM5power in that a competent / curious DIYer can do the timing belt and do it as well as a "pro", it'll just take you longer.
Step one is getting good parts and tools; metalnerd's kit of pins and locks and counter holds is as good as anyone's.
Step two: understanding exactly it is what you're doing - why and how you're loosening and tightening what and when.
Step three: Don't have a "I gotta have this back on the road eight hours from now" drop-dead deadline.
Step four: Jump in and get at it.

 

[drew_t]

And that mount is so cake easy to take out of the way, I have no idea why anyone would want to bother with any shortcutting on that front.

Even if you had to do it with only hand tools, like some of us home mechanics?

 

[pedroYUL]

Even if you had to do it with only hand tools, like some of us home mechanics?

Yup, just need to support the engine from below with a jack, or above with a support bar from HF.

I bought a bar from harbor freight, and have used it a total of one time. Jack support let you quickly raise or lower that side.

 

[Iowa TDI]

And how much would you say ballpark for a timing belt change? One shop quoted 1600 but 740 for parts alone seems real steep considering I can get everything for around 400 on reputable sites.

I just had my 14 cjaa done for $974. $550 was parts. That was coolant, new serp belt, timing belt,water pump and all the other nuts and bolts. The price seemed good for me to not have to do anything but hand him money. I even have a lift, i just didnt feel like messing with it and i did my alh timing belt 4 years ago. It was money well spent, but everyone is different.

 

[Aglowing]

ed it a total of one time. Jack support let you quickly raise or lowe

It's quite easy to remove the one bolt without removing the motor mount, so no issue there.
It's not a bad job really HOWEVER even if you mark the old belt and the crank/cam gears (which I highly recommend) that does NOT team you crank to cam timing will be perfect (you will know because you car will start then stop and throw a code). My advice is put the belt on exactly as the old, adjust the tensioner and turn everything by hand, then making sure the tensioner is set correct, lock the crank and check the cam. You may have to loosen the 3 cam bolts and turn the cam I little bit so the cam lock pin lines up perfectly. Then button it up.
You will need some tools like triple square bits, lock tools, torque wrench - just to name a few that come to mind. But worth purchasing if you plan on maintaining it yourself.
Lots to learn on your first one so plan on a full day and likely two in case you need a trip or two to the parts store...

Yea ive got everything but specialty tools and a good torque wrench and a whole lot of time in the evenings. Im confused about checking work, if I turn the engine over a couple of times by hand is that a good way to make sure before turning on my car I dont have pistons collide?

 

[Aglowing]

I agree with @bmwM5power in that a competent / curious DIYer can do the timing belt and do it as well as a "pro", it'll just take you longer.
Step one is getting good parts and tools; metalnerd's kit of pins and locks and counter holds is as good as anyone's.
Step two: understanding exactly it is what you're doing - why and how you're loosening and tightening what and when.
Step three: Don't have a "I gotta have this back on the road eight hours from now" drop-dead deadline.
Step four: Jump in and get at it.

Yeah Ive read mixed messages online but id rather mess my own engine up for 400 dollars in parts vs 1600 by a guy who thinks he knows what he's doing, thankfully ive got a place to cover it and no deadline

I do it without removing the engine mount, but I do have fairly long fingers. I have done both ways and prefer the dieselgeek method using the dieselgeek locking tools.
I have seen so many screw-ups on timing though too, a lot of them from shops who even claimed to know what they were doing... but for some reason there are a lot of guys who think they can do better than the designers and just mark the belt and slap it on, since it works for some other vehicles...

Would you say for my first time would it be better to do it with or without dropping the motor mount? It seems the most important part is making sure its threaded properly

 

[Nuje]

Keep track of the nomenclature.
Motor mount - thing with hard rubber innards that mounts to the RH frame rail.
Motor mount BRACKET: solid aluminum triangular-shaped thing with three bolts (which have a specified loosening and tightening sequence as well as TTY specs) that mounts to the side of the engine block.

The BRACKET is the thing that people either work around or remove. To me, it comes out and goes back in so easily (unlike the ALH bracket), why not get it out of the way and give yourself some additional wiggle room.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Would you say for my first time would it be better to do it with or without dropping the motor mount? It seems the most important part is making sure its threaded properly

The pros of not pulling it are not having to get all of those bolts out, no needing to support engine, less bolts needed to replace, and less chance of stripping out the threads in the aluminum block for the motor mount bracket. Its also a lot more time to pull it.
On the other hand, its tight space to pull the tensioner without pulling the bracket. And if the tensioner stud is stuck, that can make it a pain as well. The stud should be replaced every time anyway.
I can generally whip out a cjaa timing belt job in around 1.5 hours though, including replacing the alternator clutch pulley, idlers, tensioners, water pump and etc, whereas book time is almost 4 hours.

 

[bmwM5power]

Keep track of the nomenclature.
Motor mount - thing with hard rubber innards that mounts to the RH frame rail.
Motor mount BRACKET: solid aluminum triangular-shaped thing with three bolts (which have a specified loosening and tightening sequence as well as TTY specs) that mounts to the side of the engine block.

The BRACKET is the thing that people either work around or remove. To me, it comes out and goes back in so easily (unlike the ALH bracket), why not get it out of the way and give yourself some additional wiggle room.

so what is the proper way to torque this motor mount bracket? Ive seen different things, according to greendeeker DIY tutorial these bolts are 40NM+180 deg, which tells me they are TTY need replaced. According to some tutorials on youtube ( FCP Euro for example) these bolts are 45NM should be tightened in the proper sequence like you pointed in the picture above and they reused them, which is quite different.

 

[bmwM5power]

for those of you guys who did the TB with the "dieselgeek method" how do you torque the tensioner stud properly? with the channel locks? I mean this part is very important

 

[AverageAndy]

for those of you guys who did the TB with the "dieselgeek method" how do you torque the tensioner stud properly? with the channel locks? I mean this part is very important

It really just needs to be gutentight as the tensioner is held between the nut and the engine. The nut does need to be tensioned properly, which can be a challenge in that tight space.

 

[Nuje]

so what is the proper way to torque this motor mount bracket? Ive seen different things, according to greendeeker DIY tutorial these bolts are 40NM+180 deg, which tells me they are TTY need replaced. According to some tutorials on youtube ( FCP Euro for example) these bolts are 45NM should be tightened in the proper sequence like you pointed in the picture above and they reused them, which is quite different.

45Nm seems WAY too "soft". Everything I've seen in manuals for cars post-Mk4 (which was 45Nm) show it was being TTY with the +180°. So either every 2005+--> manual is wrong, or FCPeuro is.

 

[Aglowing]

Finally got around to putting in my new TB, turns out it had already been done, but I already pulled the car apart so put it in anyway took a long time but nontheless its in and feels fine, I havent been able to start my car as the battery is dead.