Timing belt change question - freaking out!

[ThomasCo]

Hi guys,

So I am knee-deep into the timing belt replacement on my 2010 JSW. I followed everything by the book, locked crankshaft at TDC and also locked down the camshaft sprocket. HPFP locking pin wouldn't go in but description and video said to do it after the old belt is off. Old belt came off BUT the little notch on the HPFP sprocket, which was a little off to begin with, moved when I took off the belt and the notch is now a little off to the right of the hole where the pin goes in. I am freaking because I didn't see this coming.

What can I do to properly lock the HPFP into place still? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[Mozambiquer]

Hi guys,

So I am knee-deep into the timing belt replacement on my 2010 JSW. I followed everything by the book, locked crankshaft at TDC and also locked down the camshaft sprocket. HPFP locking pin wouldn't go in but description and video said to do it after the old belt is off. Old belt came off BUT the little notch on the HPFP sprocket, which was a little off to begin with, moved when I took off the belt and the notch is now a little off to the right of the hole where the pin goes in. I am freaking because I didn't see this coming.

What can I do to properly lock the HPFP into place still? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!

Just turn it a little and put the pin in. On those with the hpfp its not really precise for the fuel pump, not like an alh or any of the VE pump TDIS.

 

[Mrrogers1]

I'm trying to remember BUT you should be able, with belt off, to just turn the HPFP back or around to get it to match up but it's not IIRC very critical for that sprocket/pin to be 100% precise. Cam and crank, those are 100% better be in the right place though and sounds like you are good there.

Yeah, what @Mozambiquer said. Ha ha

 

[ThomasCo]

Just turn it a little and put the pin in. On those with the hpfp its not really precise for the fuel pump, not like an alh or any of the VE pump TDIS.

Thank you for the quick response! Just to confirm, the notch is now off to the right of the hole where the pin goes in. Are you saying I should turn the sprocket CCW (which I gently tried to do by hand but it seems pretty stuck or CW, meaning I'd have to go 340 degrees or so until the notch would align with the hole?

Thanks again guys!

 

[Mozambiquer]

Thank you for the quick response! Just to confirm, the notch is now off to the right of the hole where the pin goes in. Are you saying I should turn the sprocket CCW (which I gently tried to do by hand but it seems pretty stuck or CW, meaning I'd have to go 340 degrees or so until the notch would align with the hole?

Thanks again guys!

Either way works. You likely will need to put a wrench on it to turn it.

 

[ThomasCo]

Just to make sure I didn't misrepresent. See pic for reference. Thanks again guys.

http://imgur.com/a/ndk8E86

 

[ThomasCo]

Alright, I think I got everything back to where it should be. I was able to turn back the HPFP sprocket CCW until the notch was right above the hole and the locking pin went in. Continued on with everything, new belt is on, everything is tightened down to specs and I made the small adjustment to align camshaft locking pin and crankshaft locking tool. All good. Except - after turning over the engine twice the tensioner tab is left of the notch, not centered on it or right. Should I just tighten the tensioner nut more to restore the correct tension and then turn it over again to check timing?

THANKS guys!

 

[DivineChaos]

Alright, I think I got everything back to where it should be. I was able to turn back the HPFP sprocket CCW until the notch was right above the hole and the locking pin went in. Continued on with everything, new belt is on, everything is tightened down to specs and I made the small adjustment to align camshaft locking pin and crankshaft locking tool. All good. Except - after turning over the engine twice the tensioner tab is left of the notch, not centered on it or right. Should I just tighten the tensioner nut more to restore the correct tension and then turn it over again to check timing?

THANKS guys!

It's not uncommon to have to re-tension. Did you go past it then back up? I've found that works for me.

 

[Mrrogers1]

Alright, I think I got everything back to where it should be. I was able to turn back the HPFP sprocket CCW until the notch was right above the hole and the locking pin went in. Continued on with everything, new belt is on, everything is tightened down to specs and I made the small adjustment to align camshaft locking pin and crankshaft locking tool. All good. Except - after turning over the engine twice the tensioner tab is left of the notch, not centered on it or right. Should I just tighten the tensioner nut more to restore the correct tension and then turn it over again to check timing?

THANKS guys!

The spec say there is a 5mm variance so as long as it's close, you should be ok. No harm in redoing if you want it precise but it should be just fine if the needle is close.

 

[ThomasCo]

The spec say there is a 5mm variance so as long as it's close, you should be ok. No harm in redoing if you want it precise but it should be just fine if the needle is close.

It’s probably within 5 mm, might be off a little more, but to the left of the notch and not to the right. I probably want to re-tension it just in case.
So lock crankshaft, cam and HPFP (if possible), loosen tensioner nut, tighten tensioner until tab is in notch, re-tighten tensioner nut, take locking tools out and turn 2x and recheck? No need to loosen camshaft and HPFP bolts I assume?

 

[ThomasCo]

DivineChaos:

No, I had the tab right in the middle of the notch and counterheld the tensioner with the Allen wrench when I tightened the nut to make sure not to overtighten.

 

[ThomasCo]

For visualization. You pros out there please let me know if I should tension the belt more or leave it like this.

http://imgur.com/rCG5pW6

 

[Mozambiquer]

Just leave it like that. It automatically adjusts .

 

[ThomasCo]

Update: I finished everything and closed her up, put the passenger wheel back on and started the engine. It started right away. Topped her up with G12 and destilled water and went for a 10 mile-ish test drive, nothing felt funny. I tried to go fast/sporty with high RPM in case that does anything. Made it back home and watched it idle for about 10 minutes with no belly pan on - no drips. I'd like to think that this patient is saved -- safe to assume?

 

[DivineChaos]

It’s probably within 5 mm, might be off a little more, but to the left of the notch and not to the right. I probably want to re-tension it just in case.
So lock crankshaft, cam and HPFP (if possible), loosen tensioner nut, tighten tensioner until tab is in notch, re-tighten tensioner nut, take locking tools out and turn 2x and recheck? No need to loosen camshaft and HPFP bolts I assume?

Yep. Sounds about right. Mine is always a lil left of the mark. But safe in the window.

 

[DivineChaos]

DivineChaos:

No, I had the tab right in the middle of the notch and counterheld the tensioner with the Allen wrench when I tightened the nut to make sure not to overtighten.

Mine I went past the window just slightly before I locked it down. It was right at the end of the window. Things settle

 

[Mrrogers1]

@ThomasCo Good job! The first time is always a little scary but feels so good to have it done. Now that you got the job figured out, next time, use the "Pro" method, you'll be mind blown.

 

[ThomasCo]

@ThomasCo Good job! The first time is always a little scary but feels so good to have it done. Now that you got the job figured out, next time, use the "Pro" method, you'll be mind blown.

Ha! I DID it pro style (i.e. without removing the engine mount).

 

[Mrrogers1]

Ha! I DID it pro style (i.e. without removing the engine mount).

THREE GOLD STARS FOR YOU!

 

[DivineChaos]

Ha! I DID it pro style (i.e. without removing the engine mount).

If you've done 100s of them. Apparently removing the mount isn't slower. As my guru tells me.

 

[Mozambiquer]

If you've done 100s of them. Apparently removing the mount isn't slower. As my guru tells me.

Depends on how big your fingers are in my experience...

 

[DivineChaos]

Depends on how big your fingers are in my experience...

He did have smaller hands. It's like. Bro, why take extra bolts out.

 

[ThomasCo]

Depends on how big your fingers are in my experience...

It is pretty tight down there but I cannot imagine that supporting the engine, removing the mounts etc etc and putting everything back together actually saves time over getting the bolt out with a pair of vise grips. It took me less than 5 minutes to do it and I’m not even a mechanic or remotely trained to work on cars (I’m a lawyer with too much time on my hands).

 

[GTSLOW]

For visualization. You pros out there please let me know if I should tension the belt more or leave it like this.

http://imgur.com/rCG5pW6

So I'm going through this now. My tensioner looks IDENTICAL to how yours sits in that picture. What was the solution? Like you, I followed every bit of the instructions with fine detail. My only issue is this damn tensioner arrow moves left after I rotate the engine twice to verify clearance.

Here's mine, looks darn near like a copy of yours.

 

[Mrrogers1]

So I'm going through this now. My tensioner looks IDENTICAL to how yours sits in that picture. What was the solution? Like you, I followed every bit of the instructions with fine detail. My only issue is this damn tensioner arrow moves left after I rotate the engine twice to verify clearance.

Here's mine, looks darn near like a copy of yours.

Book says we have a 5mm variance on either side to be within spec. Solution is to tighten the tensioner a touch and retest. That looks pretty close to within spec but I try to be very close to the notch or just to the right.

 

[ThomasCo]

So I'm going through this now. My tensioner looks IDENTICAL to how yours sits in that picture. What was the solution? Like you, I followed every bit of the instructions with fine detail. My only issue is this damn tensioner arrow moves left after I rotate the engine twice to verify clearance.

Here's mine, looks darn near like a copy of yours.

I believe I tensioned mine a bit more, too.

 

[Wilkins]

I rotated engine twice, reset to spec and rotated twice again. Might have reset again, can’t remember. Eventually I could rotate and everything stayed perfect. Key point is that the pins slide in and out without fighting much.

 

[Nuje]

Book says we have a 5mm variance on either side to be within spec.

Spec is actually that it's allowed to be up to 5mm to the RIGHT of the gap.

 

[MrCypherr]

Hopefully this wasnt installed with it to the left cause that would make it too loose.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

My bentley (2005-2010) doesn't mention 5mm in either direction, it just says to center it.