Timing belt alignment issue.

[DJSmokeyBluntz]

Hey Guys

First post here, I apologise if this isn't posted in the right section.

I am having a hard time with the timing on my 2010 Caddy. (BLS) After much struggling I replaced the belt, set tension and torqued everything down to the correct specifications. At this point, I torqued the three camshaft sprocket bolts to 25nM and removed the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools. After turning the engine 2 rotations, the tools do not seem to want to go in simultaneously. The vehicle does seem to turn over fine, similarly to how it did with the previous belt on.

During this job I also replaced the tensioner, idler roller, and their respective studs, as well as the water pump. The tensioner ended up getting set towards the upper limit of the acceptable range, although it seems unlikely that this would be the root of my problem.

During the first phase of the procedure, I found that the camshaft and crank were ever so slightly out (millimetres) on the original belt. To rectify this, I locked the camshaft, loosened the 3 sprocket bolts and moved the crank a very small distance to align the locking holes. Both the cam and crank got locked at this point, and they stayed locked until I removed them to rotate the engine.

If anyone can offer any advice it would be very much appreciated. I am not very experienced in these types of things, but I am trying to learn. I fear I may have bitten off a bit more than I can chew with this job. Please let me know if you need any more information.

Thanks

 

[Kasperfriend]

Hi! Did you got help? I have same issue))

 

[Tuheeden]

Hi! Did you got help? I have same issue))

I usually lock the crankshaft first and loosen the camshaft bolts and move them just a few mm so the lock pin goes in then tighten them up. Either way works but I find it easier to adjust the cam bokts

 

[Lug_Nut]

Older VWAG used a crank sprocket that had close tolerance clearance to the crankshaft, but not press / interference fitment. This could allow minimal angular rotation possible within those crank and sprocket machining tolerances to be locked in as the sprocket to shaft bolt is torqued down.
From then on the aligning tools will be a bit tighter than snug.
The crank lock is a smaller radius AND the crank rotates at 'double speed'. A crank sprocket to shaft machining clearance of .5 degree makes no appreciable difference on the piston's position TDC. The cam (and VE pump) rotates at 'half speed', is (are) held at a larger radius by its (their) lock tools having similar clearances. The issue is that a .5 degree rotation on the cam (and/or VE pump) becomes a 1 degree difference at the crank.
->The lock tools might not fall in, but it's close enough. <-

Want them to fall in? You might have to
rotate the crank and cam to TDC (such as it is),
loosen the crank sprocket from the crankshaft,
rotate the cam (and pump) to lock pin position which will also rotate the crank sprocket to position,
set the belt tension,
rotate the crank and piston that fraction of a degree to piston at absolute TDC,
THEN torque and the crank sprocket to crankshaft bolt.

More work than is necessary.

 

[Kasperfriend]

Thank you very much for your proffesional answer!!! Yes, it looks like I need to move timing belt ( camshaft and pump)one tooth forwad. When I move Camshaft by key one tooth I heard a click, spring released, like valve closed. Can one tooth wrong make a lot of white smoke? ( Or its valves?