DJSmokeyBluntz
Member
Hey Guys
First post here, I apologise if this isn't posted in the right section.
I am having a hard time with the timing on my 2010 Caddy. (BLS) After much struggling I replaced the belt, set tension and torqued everything down to the correct specifications. At this point, I torqued the three camshaft sprocket bolts to 25nM and removed the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools. After turning the engine 2 rotations, the tools do not seem to want to go in simultaneously. The vehicle does seem to turn over fine, similarly to how it did with the previous belt on.
During this job I also replaced the tensioner, idler roller, and their respective studs, as well as the water pump. The tensioner ended up getting set towards the upper limit of the acceptable range, although it seems unlikely that this would be the root of my problem.
During the first phase of the procedure, I found that the camshaft and crank were ever so slightly out (millimetres) on the original belt. To rectify this, I locked the camshaft, loosened the 3 sprocket bolts and moved the crank a very small distance to align the locking holes. Both the cam and crank got locked at this point, and they stayed locked until I removed them to rotate the engine.
If anyone can offer any advice it would be very much appreciated. I am not very experienced in these types of things, but I am trying to learn. I fear I may have bitten off a bit more than I can chew with this job. Please let me know if you need any more information.
Thanks
First post here, I apologise if this isn't posted in the right section.
I am having a hard time with the timing on my 2010 Caddy. (BLS) After much struggling I replaced the belt, set tension and torqued everything down to the correct specifications. At this point, I torqued the three camshaft sprocket bolts to 25nM and removed the camshaft and crankshaft locking tools. After turning the engine 2 rotations, the tools do not seem to want to go in simultaneously. The vehicle does seem to turn over fine, similarly to how it did with the previous belt on.
During this job I also replaced the tensioner, idler roller, and their respective studs, as well as the water pump. The tensioner ended up getting set towards the upper limit of the acceptable range, although it seems unlikely that this would be the root of my problem.
During the first phase of the procedure, I found that the camshaft and crank were ever so slightly out (millimetres) on the original belt. To rectify this, I locked the camshaft, loosened the 3 sprocket bolts and moved the crank a very small distance to align the locking holes. Both the cam and crank got locked at this point, and they stayed locked until I removed them to rotate the engine.
If anyone can offer any advice it would be very much appreciated. I am not very experienced in these types of things, but I am trying to learn. I fear I may have bitten off a bit more than I can chew with this job. Please let me know if you need any more information.
Thanks