Think car may be a total loss - need advice. Pictures included

[rolotomassi44]

So for some arcane reason my hood flew up and smashed my windshield/roof. Geico is deeming it a total loss and has offered me about $3100 if I keep my car ($3200 for them to take it - car was valued at $6800 last year!). Do you guys think it's repairable? If it wasn't for the roof it would be somewhat straightforward. It's just a major hit for me now, especially since I was planning on selling it before I leave to the military for basic training. I've taken excellent care of it and done all the upgrades (franks cam, bsm, fuel filter, timing belt, tandem pump etc) so I feel too invested to part with it.

My only other option is to get a lease before I leave in six months - what's your thoughts on this? I don't want the headache of repairs, and I know I'd have to assume someone else's lease for such a short time period. I almost feel like Geico is low balling my baby!

http://imgur.com/a/IbVNB

Would I have better chance if I parted it out myself to recuperate some of the costs?

 

[DubFamily]

Don't ever take the first offer from your insurance company; especially if said company is GEICO.

Pull up KBB and/or Edmunds values for similar vehicles to yours within 500 miles of you and show them the current market price. They are valuing your car low, period.

 

[compu_85]

It looks like the hood and roof are all that are really damaged. The windshield frame looks like it hasn't moved. If you could live with dents in the roof - or even hide them with some bondo - it looks like the car could be fixed for not a ton of $.

Don't take their first offer. Ask them to come up with another vehicle in the same condition as your.

 

[oilhammer]

I would fix that. New windshield, used hood, and whatever was broken on the latch in the first place. Only thing we really cannot tell is the condition of the hood hinges and mounting points, but I am sure a body guy could get that car as good as new again.

 

[stoner-tdi]

if you do keep it make sure you figure out what they will put the title status as...

I kept a "totaled" and they deemed the car as un-drivable (I didn't know) a year went by and I never got my registration in the mail.. didn't think too much of it.. went to the DMV a year later after I finally got a ticket for no reg. and told the lady I never received the paper in the mail.. she looked up my car and asked if it had been in a wreak.. I said yes and I got about an inch thick stack of paperwork to get the title valid.. need less to say I bought the car for $500 drove it for 3 year and sold it for $500 with the title issue and gave the headache to someone who wanted it..

 

[imo000]

Who valued your car at $6800 a year ago, the insurance company?
+1 to never take the first offer. Don't settle for anything less than fair market vvalue in your area. For that, only consider cars with similar option, condition, mileage and that they are road ready.......not some as-is or broken down junks. Use your head while you can. Once you join the military, they will do the thinking for you.

 

[Uberhare]

don't take their first offer. Ask them to come up with another vehicle in the same condition as your.

this.

 

[imo000]

this.

That's not how insurance works. Unless it's an agreed value policy, it will be fair market value.

 

[Jzallan]

Roof can be fixed. Takes time to get the metal straight, but it's not the worst I've seen or fixed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Uberhare]

That's not how insurance works. Unless it's an agreed value policy, it will be fair market value.

I've helped 2 friends through negotiating a higher value here in Ontario....once you cash the cheque your done. After you come to an agreement on value, then ask for tax on top Most companies don't give it to you unless you ask.

 

[Cincy_TDI]

When my 13 Passat got totaled I tried getting more from the other driver insurance. I had a rental car which they stopped paying after they made their offer. Ended up with 189 and change which was enough to pay off car and have money to put down on another. But you never end up better than you think. You can try for more but also if you find cars sold for less based on the averages it can actually lower their offer.

 

[vwztips]

I've helped 2 friends through negotiating a higher value here in Ontario....once you cash the cheque your done. After you come to an agreement on value, then ask for tax on top Most companies don't give it to you unless you ask.

Also show receipts for cam and BSM work

 

[abctdi]

Someone's gotta say it - that'll buff right out man
Good luck though.

 

[imo000]

I've helped 2 friends through negotiating a higher value here in Ontario....once you cash the cheque your done. After you come to an agreement on value, then ask for tax on top Most companies don't give it to you unless you ask.

I went through the back and for bickering with them several times and you are right. Settle the price and THEN add the taxes.

 

[deming]

Easily Fixable. The roof is the most labor intensive. Looks to be a $1500 to $2000 cash repair.
Parts, time and labor. If it were my car; I would fix the car and motor on.

 

[wtribeflyer]

Easily Fixable. The roof is the most labor intensive. Looks to be a $1500 to $2000 cash repair.
Parts, time and labor. If it were my car; I would fix the car and motor on.

X2 /\ /\. piece of cake.

 

[turbocharged798]

I say junkyard hood, new windshield and motor on. Less than $500.

 

[mohawk69]

Get your best deal from insurance. Do a quick repair and sell the remains before you leave for basic. You may end up somewhere that you can't own a car anyway. Buy a replacement when you return.

 

[Brian's96TDIPASSAT]

The most labor intensive part is removing and re-installing the headliner for a body shop. If you can remove it, bring it in for the metal work on the roof, replace the hood you'll save yourself around $600 or better in labor.

 

[Dodoma]

You may get used parts from junk yard. But they don't come cheap because the junk yard operators know the new part prices. Also the paint work will also cost you much. You may be better off taking the cash/cheque and buying a new car. A small dent fixing easily cost more than $300. Bumper cover paint easily $400. Windshield easily $600. You have the cost for down time too. And then the work will not be of professional quality if you do yourself.

 

[Ol'Rattler]

Also show receipts for cam and BSM work

Waste of time. The insurance company won't care.They would probably point out that those items are just required maintenance.

Fair market value is all they care about, and as you found out, they will try to low ball the hell out of you on that.

Counter with an honest KBB estimate indicating what the car was worth prior to the accident.

 

[deming]

My buddy is an expert body repair man.

I showed him the pictures of your car and we priced everything out.

This is a $1500 repair and that was with new parts, paint and his labor at
$40.00-45.00 an hour. BTW- That is the "good guy" small town rate.

Hardest part of the job is dealing with the headliner.

Its an easy fix !

Good luck whichever way you decide to go.

 

[imo000]

Why are you using new parts on an old car? Get some good used ones, after all, that's what was on there before. Are you sure this buddy is looking out for your best interest?

 

[deming]

Why are you using new parts on an old car?
Get some good used ones, after all, that's what was on there before.
Are you sure this buddy is looking out for your best interest?[/QUOTE]

A. It is not my car
B. I was getting him (rolotomassi44) a quick idea as to the cost to fix
C. We do not use junk yard body parts in this part of the
country for several key reasons ----

1. Very few VW / German car parts in Ford and Chevy country
2. Takes time to scour junkyards and source parts
3. Added freight cost to ship junk yard parts cross country
4. Hit or miss finding what you need
5. RUST and often times body damage with salvage parts

Obviously, if he (rolotomassi44) can find what he needs at a junk yard he may
save some additional money. He can save $ on labor if he has the tools, time and shop space to fix it himself.
Keep in mind most body repair shops will have to sand down, prep and paint the junk yard parts,
which most often adds extra labor time and drives up the cost. My buddy is pretty cheap with his labor rate,
but a retail body shop, in a large metro area, will most likely charge somewhere between $80.00-95.00 per hour.
They will also mark up the parts and not wholesale them to you at their price.

 

[vwztips]

Is it black or dark brown? If black you can find black ones from 2001.5 to 2005 in just about any junk yard. Get the hinges with it, bolt it on, fix the windshield and go

 

[imo000]

Why are you using new parts on an old car?
Get some good used ones, after all, that's what was on there before.
Are you sure this buddy is looking out for your best interest?[/QUOTE]

A. It is not my car
B. I was getting him (rolotomassi44) a quick idea as to the cost to fix
C. We do not use junk yard body parts in this part of the
country for several key reasons ----

1. Very few VW / German car parts in Ford and Chevy country
2. Takes time to scour junkyards and source parts
3. Added freight cost to ship junk yard parts cross country
4. Hit or miss finding what you need
5. RUST and often times body damage with salvage parts

Obviously, if he (rolotomassi44) can find what he needs at a junk yard he may
save some additional money. He can save $ on labor if he has the tools, time and shop space to fix it himself.
Keep in mind most body repair shops will have to sand down, prep and paint the junk yard parts,
which most often adds extra labor time and drives up the cost. My buddy is pretty cheap with his labor rate,
but a retail body shop, in a large metro area, will most likely charge somewhere between $80.00-95.00 per hour.
They will also mark up the parts and not wholesale them to you at their price.

The rust over there is just as bad as here. OE panels always fit better than aftermarket and that's why most bodyshops like them BUT there is a heck of a lot more profit margin sourcing aftermarket panels then using good used OE panels isn't it? All wrecking yards grade their panels so there isn't much to scour for and car-part.com list pretty much all of them and their inventories. This day and age, unless a shop is trying to maximize profits and don't care about the quality of the panels they are bolting on (aftermarket is always inferior to OE), there is no good reason to use new aftermarket panels......unless there is no other option.

 

[deming]

My body shop person will not use aftermarket body panels or parts.
He only uses factory stuff ! He says CAPA certified parts are a joke.
Many Insurance companies demand him to use CAPA certified / Chinese aftermarket parts.
He turns a lot of insurance business away from his shop.
Unlike other shops; he does not mark up his parts. You pay what he pays.
He makes his money on the labor time from the book.

I have found that OEM original only costs a little bit more money, but well worth the better quality.

Example--
Just bought a new factory GM hood, GM front bumper cover, GM front support and the RF headlight assembly GM for
a 2014 Impala LTZ limited. All OEM factory General Motors stuff in GM boxes from GM dealership.
$812.57 for everything. Aftermarket stuff would have saved about $60.00

His best bet is to ----

Buy New OEM stuff at wholesale from a VW dealership like Keffer VW (www.keffervw.com) OR find a junk yard in Arizona, Nevada or
California that has what he needs. Rust would be my biggest concern as this body style has been out of production for 10 years.
All depends on the wallet and long term ownership of the car. A new VW hood is $198.03 --- part # 3B0823031K .
Most junk yards want $85.00-125.00 depending on the grade or condition plus $$ freight charge.
I know 4 or 5 larger salvage yards in the Phoenix, AZ Valley area.

Good luck with your repair.
Let us know how it all works out for both you and your car.

 

[Brian's96TDIPASSAT]

My daughter got in an accident in her 05 Passat recently. Found a mirror, same color, $70. Headlight, OE, very good shape for $75. I"m gonna get an OE bumper and RF fender if we can't straighten the factory one, I was wondering how I'd spend the 2K I got back from VW for our 11 and 14. The $1000 I have to spend at VW should just about cover the bumper and fender along with a few brackets. The car is too nice for aftermarket panels, especially after re-building much of the engine, Errikson rebuilt converter etc.

 

[deming]

I think you can use the VW voucher cards / settlement money on parts.
No sales tax if you buy online and some dealers will cut you a deal on freight.

There are multiple VW dealers that have wholesale parts departments willing to wholesale parts to you. Especially since they ( VW dealers ) are struggling due to this whole scandal and PR mess (dieselgate).

kefferVW is just one VW dealer that comes to mind, but your local dealer may even price match other VW dealer wholesalers.
Use your VW voucher cards and those new OEM parts will cost you nothing. -----

 

[imo000]

OEM stands for aftermarket. OE is VW.