The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

turbodieseldyke

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Location
Free Mustache Rides
TDI
98 jetta
Mk3 got a new timing belt today. The gods were smiling on me, and only two of the harmonic balancer hex screws stripped (all four needed Pblaster and torch). Digging around my spare hardware jar, the only match I could find was some used triple-square M8 axle bolts. Perfect fit. Hopefully those don't strip 5 years from now, and I don't forget they're mismatched.
 

Mcgink

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Location
South of Boston MA
TDI
I-Red,"The Passat formerly known as Harlequin" 97 B4, a non VW GTDI too
I-Red fired right up (New Battery) after sitting here for a long time. Replaced My left clutch linkage :cool: but I-Red clutch still won't fully disengage. Took a slow ride around the block in second gear and that's it for now. I'll probably be parting ways with it soon.
 

Mcgink

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Location
South of Boston MA
TDI
I-Red,"The Passat formerly known as Harlequin" 97 B4, a non VW GTDI too
Sounds like a spring on the disc broke.

-Todd
Kinda thinking that too, I replaced the slave cylinder but that didn't fix it. The pedal movement/feel is like normal. Maybe someone who's looking for a rust free B4 with a sweet black leather interior will take on the project, we'll see.
 

Starion_slider

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Location
CT.
TDI
1996 B4 sedan
Haha wait....you have a rust free B4? Bostons not that far from CT. I been thinking about buying another one so i can keep tdi’s in my future forever.
 

Mcgink

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Location
South of Boston MA
TDI
I-Red,"The Passat formerly known as Harlequin" 97 B4, a non VW GTDI too
It was nice to get one from beyond the rust belt. Since I always had at least one other buggy, I didn't use I-Red in the New England winter weather.
 

Starion_slider

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Location
CT.
TDI
1996 B4 sedan
Well i pulled the head over the weekend. I did a gasket 6yrs ago on it (was original with over 200k). That one started showing the mysterious coolant bottle slowly dribbling the tiniest bit of coolant out after weeks of driving. I replaced it and it was cured since 2015. Fast forward to last week and now we are at 394k and it started showing the same symptoms. I wasn’t excited about it but I love her too much to not continue to fix it. I figured it was a good time to also clean out the intake since last time I didn’t even bother looking at it. So i tore it all down and same as last time the gasket was very hard to actually find a definitive failure point but I knew it was either the gasket or a crack in the head or block and I didn’t see either and when I checked the hose to the bottle it had only a slight on/off amount of bubbles when running before tear down so I just went with my gut and continued on. I ended up burning out the intake and then dug out the head ports. Everything had about 1/4” +\- all in the intake and the head ports were a little worse. I ended up pressure washing everything out after gouging, digging, burning, scraping, and blowing out with compressed air. Got it all pretty spotless and hit the deck and head with some fine paper on a block and got that all spotless. Looked quick with the straightest straight edge i had and I didn’t see any daylight or anything that jumped out at me to worry about so I slapped it back together with new gasket and bolts (thanks IDparts). The belt looked good and its still got another 12k left on it so I left it alone (also knowing the head could possibly be off again if it wasnt fixed). It fired right up pretty easily with no bleeding or any drama and been driving it all week beating it hard and the outside of the bottle has now been bone dry and no lost coolant or bubbles. So im calling it good. Glad thats over and its nice knowing that the intake and head ports are all clear and good and who knows mabey I will see a MPG increase. Only casualty of the entire job was the stupid pcv puck on the valvecover broke even though i was being super careful. Im suspecting it was because it was a cold engine and the rubber grommet was not softened up. I had to order one for next day because nobody stocks stuff for these things anymore but its all good and leak free now.

*****One mod I did do was address the slight long term oil drip from the tiny hole in the intake at the EGR. I tested the egr valve with vacuum and it held and would open but I suspect its got a leak under boost or its just pushing past the valve guide or something. It would drip out that hole and run down the back of block between 5k oil changes and it was annoying. Obviously the original turbo passes a little oil (its original but still remarkably tight). So I drilled and tapped it for a 90deg NPT hose barb and ran the hose straight to the ground by the sway bar. I dont see a drip or drop on the head or block now.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Nice.... I thought with ulsd, the soot build up in the intake tract was a thing of the past.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Did anyone's soot buildup ever smell like sulfur?
It shouldn't, there isn't any sulfur left in diesel fuel IIRC, they did that stuff back in the 80's I think. That was the first round of IP seal failures, they never announced it or some such, all those old IP's had seal failures.

Steve
 

turbodieseldyke

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Location
Free Mustache Rides
TDI
98 jetta
I was asking about the pre-ULSD fuel and crud (forgot to type that part of the question), because if reduced sulfur content was a factor in cleaner intakes, one might expect the crud to contain enough sulfur to leave an odor.

People also thought ULSD gave worse mpg than the old D2. That always made me wonder if anyone tried adding a jigger of sulfur per tank, or whatever measurement would approximate the old sulfur levels, to see if it made a difference.
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
Nice.... I thought with ulsd, the soot build up in the intake tract was a thing of the past.

-Todd
If that was the case there would be no need for DPFs. If you look at the intakes/EGR valves of the CR cars that have cracked DPF elements they can get quite mucked up. It does seem that soot build up is to a lesser degree than pre-ULSD fuel times. I don't do half as many intake cleaning where it is choking the engine off anymore but given enough miles it does return.
 
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Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
If that was the case there would be no need for DPFs. If you look at the intakes/EGR valves of the CR cars that have cracked DPF elements they can get quite mucked up. It does seem that soot build up is to a lesser degree than pre-ULSD fuel times. I don't do half as many intake cleaning where it is choking the engine off anymore but given enough miles it does return.
Isn't the intake mucking from crankcase breather recirculation in combination with the EGR?

I am reminded I need to burn out a few intakes in the near term...

I was asking about the pre-ULSD fuel and crud (forgot to type that part of the question), because if reduced sulfur content was a factor in cleaner intakes, one might expect the crud to contain enough sulfur to leave an odor.

People also thought ULSD gave worse mpg than the old D2. That always made me wonder if anyone tried adding a jigger of sulfur per tank, or whatever measurement would approximate the old sulfur levels, to see if it made a difference.
Oh, so you're not smelling it you're just speculating that it should show up as odor?

Steve
 

turbodieseldyke

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Location
Free Mustache Rides
TDI
98 jetta
Oh, so you're not smelling it you're just speculating that it should show up as odor?
Right. Sulfured fuel was before my time, so I can only guess why people concluded ULSD solved the buildup problem. If the crud used to smell like sulfur, i can see why they'd reach that conclusion. If not, then i dont know what.

I'm more curious about the old fuel giving higher mpg, than the buildup question. If the sulfur content was indeed beneficial, then it should be an extremely cheap and easy fuel additive -- rather than paying $70/gal (55cents/oz) for some name brand snake oil. If the snake oil actually delivers results (at 4oz snakeoil per gallon of fuel, i.e. 14 cents/gallon of diesel) then a 10% boost would be break-even at $1.40/gal diesel cost. But part of the psychology of MPG improvement is, when you're consciously trying to improve mpg, you will drive more conservatively. So when guys report Snakeoil Fuel Treatment(tm) got them more mpg... well, maybe the snakeoil did it, or maybe they changed their driving habits a little bit.

I could also swear that diesel is a good mpg booster for unleaded gas. I used to see a 10% boost when I topped up my Honda on Friday afternoons from gas cans. Those same cans were used to transfer diesel into equipment during the week, so there were a couple ounces of residual D2 when the cans were filled with unleaded. I don't drive gassers anymore, so it's not something I feel like exploring. But I'm certain the improvement wasn't psychosomatic, since the gas was free, and it was a 2-3 hour drive at the end of a 60 hour week that I just wanted to be over.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Right. Sulfured fuel was before my time, so I can only guess why people concluded ULSD solved the buildup problem. If the crud used to smell like sulfur, i can see why they'd reach that conclusion. If not, then i dont know what.

I'm more curious about the old fuel giving higher mpg, than the buildup question. If the sulfur content was indeed beneficial, then it should be an extremely cheap and easy fuel additive -- rather than paying $70/gal (55cents/oz) for some name brand snake oil. If the snake oil actually delivers results (at 4oz snakeoil per gallon of fuel, i.e. 14 cents/gallon of diesel) then a 10% boost would be break-even at $1.40/gal diesel cost. But part of the psychology of MPG improvement is, when you're consciously trying to improve mpg, you will drive more conservatively. So when guys report Snakeoil Fuel Treatment(tm) got them more mpg... well, maybe the snakeoil did it, or maybe they changed their driving habits a little bit.

I could also swear that diesel is a good mpg booster for unleaded gas. I used to see a 10% boost when I topped up my Honda on Friday afternoons from gas cans. Those same cans were used to transfer diesel into equipment during the week, so there were a couple ounces of residual D2 when the cans were filled with unleaded. I don't drive gassers anymore, so it's not something I feel like exploring. But I'm certain the improvement wasn't psychosomatic, since the gas was free, and it was a 2-3 hour drive at the end of a 60 hour week that I just wanted to be over.
Since I'm not a chemist I can't say exactly what the sulfur provided but I always assumed it was a lubricity agent since it's removal from diesel caused problems for the injection pumps. I also seem to remember reading that the sulfur content interfered with emissions control equipment.

Steve
 

Starion_slider

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Location
CT.
TDI
1996 B4 sedan
I didn’t smell or taste it. Just burned it and washed it out. Its probably never been done and the turbo definitely passes some oil so the combo of wet oil in intake and egr circulation probably added up after almost 400k. I thought it woulda been wayyyy worse than it was. Im just happy I fixed the problem.
 

Matthew13

Active member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Location
Alabama
TDI
97 Passat Sedan, “Lili von Shtupp”
Busy day for Lili, but mostly cosmetic. Washed and waxed her, removing as much of the peeling clearcoat as I could. Also polished the crap out of the headlight lenses. (Hey, there's little levels in there to assist with headlight aiming! Who knew?) Painted the crossbar ends as a warning so I won't keep banging my head on them and moved the front bar back to (hopefully) alleviate wind noise.
Big thing I did was investigate the source of obnoxious amounts of noise from the front left wheel. The axle is new-ish and the CV boots are good, so I don't think that's it. Everything seems to rotate freely and nothing jumps out as the issue. Lili drives normally, no pulling or weirdness in the steering. J-U-S-T F-R-E-A-K-I-N-G L-O-U-D! With the corner jacked up and the driver's wheel in the air, I felt a little play (grabbing top/bottom), so guessing it's the (original) bearing. Shoot, at 347K, may be a good idea to replace it as preventative maintenance.

ETA: Moving the crossbar back killed the wind noise so I can hear the howl of the wheel bearing better.
wuhwuhwuhWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUHWUH

So I've got that going for me. Which is nice.
 
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Matthew13

Active member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Location
Alabama
TDI
97 Passat Sedan, “Lili von Shtupp”
Update to the above wheel bearing saga, for those of you keeping score at home. Got left front wheel bearing out. So far, so good. BUUUUT...
I cannot get the new bearing to go in straight. I've tried lightly tapping it all the way around to get it started in the knuckle, freezing it, trying to force it...all no love. The bearing gets cocked sideways *slightly* and won't go in more than a few millimeters. Every. Damn. Time. Because I'm scared I'll get it lodged in there like the Ever Given in the Suez, I put it away for the night and will try tomorrow.

Notes:
- You can disassemble the whole shebang on the car without popping off the joint for the tie rod. Just remove the three LBJ bolts to pull the axle out, then reinstall them to stabilize the knuckle while you're working.
- On the backside of the knuckle is also a snap ring. If you can't get the old bearing out the normal way, you might be able to pull the inner snap ring and press (or beat) the old bearing IN (towards the engine). If nothing else, it might help to break up some of whatever's the problem.

More to follow...
 

Matthew13

Active member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Location
Alabama
TDI
97 Passat Sedan, “Lili von Shtupp”
One of the things I've tried is tapping it to get it started square; I'm using a dead-blow hammer with a piece of wood as a buffer. Either way, I'm pressing it in using one of those "bolt through all the stuff with heavy plates on each end" kits ("fwd bearing remover and installer set" in Amazon-speak).

Ideas and tips are much appreciated.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Replaced I think 6 different bulbs yesterday. Both reverse lights, both rear brake lights, a headlight and a license plate lamp. Now looking into doing the simultaneous high/low beam mod and five-light brake mod.
 

Matthew13

Active member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Location
Alabama
TDI
97 Passat Sedan, “Lili von Shtupp”
Abacus - you were right! It did straighten itself out as I wound it in. I thought something broke because it was really difficult, then - WOW! - it got really easy. Bearing in. Hub in. Final check before wrapping it up and reinstalling the axle.

Back of the inner race looks weird...it's sticking out like it got pulled back with the hub...hmmm...oh no...seal ruptured. Game over.

Looking back on it, I used the wrong side of the backing plate when installing the hub. I thought I was supporting the inner race, but wasn't, and it got pulled "in" along with the hub. The correct plate and orientation are in the bearing install tool instructions, but I didn't look at them before I installed the hub. Gotta order new kit and start over again. Sigh.

Lesson: RTFM, prior to doing the work.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Bought a roached out 97 B4 about a year ago and have managed to not do anything with it, but now it needs to be able to move around under its own power. It had a clutch master problem, the nipple from the master to the hose from the brake reservoir snapped and then eventually the clutch became inop. Prior owner thought clutch was internal to the trans and said he wasn't about to fix it. I did a little fishing around behind the coolant orb and found the hose from the brake master loose so I was sure it wouldn't be too awful.

When the clutch went the prior owner just let it sit and then eventually pushed it into the yard to get it off the street (winter plowing complaints) and after that I bought it and dragged it home. It's absolutely nothing to look at but could make for a reasonable winter beater, it's got 308k miles on it and after checking with VCDS it had no error codes. But it did come with a good battery and four near new tires albeit not the correct size...lol

Anyway, fixed the clutch problem the other day, now on to ignition switch (it has the wired in push button bypass so many kids like today) and also I guess it has a bad starter, or so he said.

I checked the oil when I was working on the clutch and found it to be about a quart over full. While draining the excess off I discovered more problems that I wasn't aware of before although I had wondered about why there was so much soot under the hood and in the air cleaner.



Looks like this guy preferred a very minimal exhaust? That couldn't have been enjoyable to travel with TBH, I don't see how that wasn't coming in through the cabin filter. And then there's that CV joint with no boot!!!

Now if I can just find the spare starter I'll have this thing moving on its own and I can get on with the next thing.

Steve
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Yikes!! I bet if it had a plastic CV shield, it would have melted off.
Probably wouldn't hurt to have a shield, or at the very least an owner that actually gave a crap about the car.

I knew it was neglected when I got it, but an exhaust cut off just past the turbo, that's a bit crazy.

It's running now but I lost the cluster now for some reason. The clutch is working too. I didn't get the ignition switch replaced yet so that could be part of the issue too.

Holy rust attack, Batman! I'd be amazed if the CV joint bolts came out without serious persuasion.
Could be a problem, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. At least now it's moving under its own power.

Steve
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Here it is in all its rusty glory! I added the Mk3 hubcaps to make it look like it wasn't a complete junker. This is the good side, the other has a blue front fender and similar rust problems plus the hood was a replacement that never got painted unfortunately. There is one B4 hubcap on the other side still...lol.

Starter replaced, ignition switch not yet replaced but I still managed to get the car started by pushing the key upward a little. Now however, I've lost part of the cluster (odo and clock) so there's more to be done. Couple minor codes have popped up now too, brake pedal monitoring, which cleared out and hasn't been back, but GP monitoring, which continues to come back. It has a new harness so maybe the GP's need to be replaced. I have a good used set of Beru that I could throw at this with no great loss. Front windows are inop, inside it's grungy.

Steve

 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
Here it is in all its rusty glory! I added the Mk3 hubcaps to make it look like it wasn't a complete junker. This is the good side, the other has a blue front fender and similar rust problems plus the hood was a replacement that never got painted unfortunately. There is one B4 hubcap on the other side still...lol.

Starter replaced, ignition switch not yet replaced but I still managed to get the car started by pushing the key upward a little. Now however, I've lost part of the cluster (odo and clock) so there's more to be done. Couple minor codes have popped up now too, brake pedal monitoring, which cleared out and hasn't been back, but GP monitoring, which continues to come back. It has a new harness so maybe the GP's need to be replaced. I have a good used set of Beru that I could throw at this with no great loss. Front windows are inop, inside it's grungy.

Steve

One has to wonder why we would go through all this. Not criticizing. I’ve been there to be sure. Perhaps harder to explain to a non-enthusiast o_O
 
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