The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[mrbrefast]

I am back from 8 days spent volunteering in Haiti; while there I laid eyes upon two (2) gorgeous VW TDI Amarok pickup trucks... but in both cases, through enough traffic that I didn't get my camera up and on in time to get photos

I also didn't get rich enough to somehow import one AND modify it to meet US EPA regulations etc... but one day I shall.

Once home, I walked past my B4 and decided that Subaru projects will now be on hold until the Passat is up and running again (at double the fuel efficiency of running my Subaru!)

Updates to come early next week, I hope.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

I did another rear brake job.....Zimmerman rotors and Mintex pads from IDParts,new Timken bearings,and a rubber oil seal. I bought the cheap bearing kit from AutohausAz-being it included everything(except the cotter pin)-bearings seemed chintzy to me,so I got the inners and outers from Autozone-the Duralast were actually Timken. Spend the extra money and get the better kit from a vendor.... anyhow,had a miserable time trying to separate the pb cable from the caliper-vise grips, a little heat,Thrust-the cable would not pop out of the holder.So I twisted the holder of the caliper,then ground down a couple notches around the round part of cable,and twisted that piece out so I could remove the cable end. Wire brushed the end of cable to clean it up. The races went in nice and tight on the rotors,unlike last time where I had to take a rotor back because the race spun inside the rotor,fully seated. Old caliper came off no problem,spun the new one on(a TRW from AutohausAZ),re-used the copper washers as the new one didn't come w/ any,but all good,no leaks. Cleaned the carriers and pins,cleaned the slide holes and re-greased both sides.The one thing that makes me nervous is the oil seal-it was an all rubber one,I thought they were always a metal ring w/ rubber,guess time will tell. Both axles did have the oil seal cover/guard.Got the bearings seated,found some cotter pins,then tried to install a new dust cap(that came in the kit). It did not want to go on square,so after 5 minutes and cuss words,I put the old caps back on. It's nice to have a parking brake again......

 

[Steve Addy]

I did another rear brake job.....Zimmerman rotors and Mintex pads from IDParts,new Timken bearings,and a rubber oil seal. I bought the cheap bearing kit from AutohausAz-being it included everything(except the cotter pin)-bearings seemed chintzy to me,so I got the inners and outers from Autozone-the Duralast were actually Timken. Spend the extra money and get the better kit from a vendor.... anyhow,had a miserable time trying to separate the pb cable from the caliper-vise grips, a little heat,Thrust-the cable would not pop out of the holder.So I twisted the holder of the caliper,then ground down a couple notches around the round part of cable,and twisted that piece out so I could remove the cable end. Wire brushed the end of cable to clean it up. The races went in nice and tight on the rotors,unlike last time where I had to take a rotor back because the race spun inside the rotor,fully seated. Old caliper came off no problem,spun the new one on(a TRW from AutohausAZ),re-used the copper washers as the new one didn't come w/ any,but all good,no leaks. Cleaned the carriers and pins,cleaned the slide holes and re-greased both sides.The one thing that makes me nervous is the oil seal-it was an all rubber one,I thought they were always a metal ring w/ rubber,guess time will tell. Both axles did have the oil seal cover/guard.Got the bearings seated,found some cotter pins,then tried to install a new dust cap(that came in the kit). It did not want to go on square,so after 5 minutes and cuss words,I put the old caps back on. It's nice to have a parking brake again......

What seal number did you get? I always try and get the 1962 seal, that one is typically metal but there are others that will work and some are all rubber. I don't think it's really anything to worry about depending on how tightly it went it.

Steve

 

[tdidieselbobny]

What seal number did you get? I always try and get the 1962 seal, that one is typically metal but there are others that will work and some are all rubber. I don't think it's really anything to worry about depending on how tightly it went it.

Steve

I don't think there was a # on it-it was part of the "Pex" rear wheel bearing kit that is sold at AutohausAZ. I did have the metal ring seals at one point but returned them awhile back to Advance.....I'll check bearing play after a couple of weeks.

 

[Digital Corpus]

I *think* I've finished putting up all of the dyno data for OE vs Colt Stage II:
OE Camshaft
Colt Camshaft
Dyno Notes & Files
VCDS Logs

 

[goodmonkey]

Radio Rides Again!

Finally got some time to reattack my injection pump problem. I had today off, so last night I took the IP off so it was ready for me this morning. I wanted to verify that I didn't have the cam plate 180 degrees off, and if I was going to send it in for a rebuild, I'd need to drain the fuel anyway. Once opened up, everything look like it was put together as it should be. Feeling defeated I started to put the pump back together, when I noticed something. The two spacers were on the wrong side of the link element, so next to the control collar instead of next to the distributor-plunger foot. This would explain why it seemed the pump was taking 8 seconds to build up pressure for one pop of the injectors. After verifying in other pump pictures I had it wrong, I put it back together right, and back on the car.

At first, the car ran rough enough I thought things would fly apart. I figured the IP timing was off, as I put it in the middle of the adjustment swing and did not advance a tooth on the timing belt. After swinging the pump almost as far as it would advance, the car ran much better, but had a rough and high idle, about 1100 RPM. It almost seemed like it was skipping, so I played with the quantity adjuster and got it set right. I'm finally down to a smooth idle of 870 RPM. All of this took a good six hours straight today.

I still think there is a problem with the check valve in the tank, and to verify I backed it up the hill tonight. I'm hoping to take it for a spin tomorrow, and if it fires up within a few seconds, then I know there is a check valve problem

I'm not certain as to when I messed up the shims. Looking at my pictures of the pump taken apart, I had the distributor assembly put together, and they are in the correct spot. Now if I ever take another IP apart, I will remember this and get it back together right the first time! All the issues I thought from pulling fuel through the pump to timing were all just wrong. If you can pull fuel through the return port on the top of the pump, the pump is full. The swing of the pump for timing adjustment is more than a tooth on the pulley, you just have to take the hard lines loose to move the pump very much at all. So now it is fixed, and the next problem will need solved. First things first, my sun visor clip broke, and I will be sourcing another one.

 

[artie b]

Good job Goodmonkey! I know where to send Dots IP, now that you're experienced.

 

[goodmonkey]

Good job Goodmonkey! I know where to send Dots IP, now that you're experienced.

Thanks Artie! If you ever need a reseal on that pump again, I think I can handle it. I may even replace the security bolt. I hope though you never do, though a real rebuild could be necessary someday with the miles it has on it.

 

[FordGuy100]

Long time.

Since I've been on here last I've had to push the pin in on the passenger front door handle, and both sets of front wheel bearings. I must be doing something wrong there, as one is making noise again. Going OEM bearings next.

I gotta tell ya, taking a break from forums is probably the best thing I have ever done. I now know I can waste a lot of time on them, that I can be putting to use doing more productive things.

 

[TDIL3dad]

On daily driver black B4, replaced damaged air intake tube & replaced fuel filter. On blue B4V project replaced leaking CCV tube , replaced leaking coolant flange gasket, and fixed broken wires next to engine harness connector. Then I spent a bunch of time getting to know the inside and looking for sources of water leaks.

Found out that the sun-roof drains appear to be working and water goes through easily. I was particularly after the source of water that caused the driver's side seat belt to become soaking wet. Took off the long sill cover and lower B pillar cover, and found nothing obvious. Then I noticed that the crinkled hose that goes from the door to the B pillar and has a bunch of wires passing through it appeared loose at point where it connects to the B pillar..

Close examination and comparison of the B4V project to my daily driver B4 showed that I am missing what looks like a large plastic nut that connects and tightens the hose to the pillar.Any idea what the VW p/n is for this?
See above picture.The B4 daily driver has BOTH the indented nut and the smooth nut or bushing close to to the door ( see above pic). On the B4V project, the smooth nut is missing, and only the indented nut is present.

Also and unrelated, found this loose wire in the rear left compartment where a CD could be mounted in B4V. Any idea what this wire is for?

Both ends look the same and it is bolted on the right end to what appears to be a grounding screw.

 

[lisab4]

That looks like something added by the previous owner?

 

[Windex]

Looks aftermarket

 

[TDIL3dad]

Windex - do you like the louder B5 turn signal "click" sound?
I wish the B4 had the louder sound.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Buy an electronic blinker relay that's louder or see if the B5 works in the B4

 

[Abacus]

We're headed to PEI for a week of cycling, so in preparation I decided to get a little work done on the wagon.

First up was the drivers door handle, which took 2 pulls to open. Easy fix, just add a shim.

Now it opens with one finger, like it should.

Then to the driver's rear window, which stopped working. This is exactly the reason I prefer soldering over crimp connectors, which I know are the 'preferred' method of wire attachment on VW's. Too many created another problem by forcing the wires to flex only in a certain spot.

So I cut out the bad sections and spliced in new pieces, then soldered and shrink wrapped them.

Tapped and plugged the EGR weep hole to stop all the oil from coating the back of the engine. I head to leave it off due to not having the EGR pipe blanked off yet. If you plug the hole and don't blank off the EGR itself, the exhaust gas pressure will push the EGR open and the plug won't release the pressure, so it'll hang open. This limits your turbo pressure to about 13 psi. This is irrespective of whether or not the EGR is turned off with a tune or even connected to the N18.

Added some Nakamichi speakers to the doors since the OEM ones were shot. I found the rear driver's speaker is not working at all despite continuity from the door to the speaker. Looks like I'll have to drive into the wiring somewhere in the car.

But despite the new head unit and new speakers, the car still sounds like crap, very tinny. Any Audiophiles out there that can give as hand as to why? I have a Pioneer DEH-X6700BS base unit and Nakamichi NSE65 speakers.

I looked into getting the AC running but don't have gauges and have no experience with AC units, so I wasn't able to make progress. The AC worked fine until 2 months ago when it stopped working suddenly. Living in Maine it's not really a priority but the wife wanted it working before we left since it can get humid on the Island.

I still had a few things to button up on the wagon and get all 4 bikes ready to travel (2 road, 1 mountain, 1 fat) but went to the store for some local beer for a friend on PEI. When we got to the store I noticed the remote wouldn't lock the car. Then when I came out the remote wouldn't unlock it but the car wouldn't start. I suspect the Convenience Module died. The wife was able to push the car to jump start it and it ran fine. I decided to throw in the towel and take the Kia instead. It'll cost a lot more in fuel but I'm not fighting with the car over vacation so it can sit in the garage until we get back.

 

[Windex]

Windex - do you like the louder B5 turn signal "click" sound?
I wish the B4 had the louder sound.

It is more noticeable, that's for sure - I just try to make sure I don't forget about it and drive straight down the road with the signal on having a senior moment

 

[TDIL3dad]

It is more noticeable, that's for sure - I just try to make sure I don't forget about it and drive straight down the road with the signal on having a senior moment

I wonder if the louder "click" feature could be easily swapped into the B4.
I will try a B5 blinker relay as suggested above and report back to the hive.

I suffer not only from senior moments, but also from ageing ears!

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Abacus, thanks for the photos. My B4 needs that rear window repair.

 

[jhax]

Yesterday if found out the point where I start to run out of fuel (started dying on the interstate), shut it off, bought a gas can and some fuel, put fuel in said a prayer to the diesel gods and got it to the fuel station on the other side of the interstate. Turns out the point at which it begins dying is the very last red tick mark on the fuel gauge. 1310.8 miles on this tank.

 

[WestVa304]

Turns out the point at which it begins dying is the very last red tick mark on the fuel gauge. 1310.8 miles on this tank.

I took mine almost to the last red mark the other day, and though it didn't get low enough to sputter it did take a few turns to fire up where it usually fires immediately.

 

[john.jackson9213]

Yesterday if found out the point where I start to run out of fuel (started dying on the interstate), shut it off, bought a gas can and some fuel, put fuel in said a prayer to the diesel gods and got it to the fuel station on the other side of the interstate. Turns out the point at which it begins dying is the very last red tick mark on the fuel gauge. 1310.8 miles on this tank.

So how much fuel did it take to fill the tank? I assume your tank is fully vented??

 

[jhax]

25.125 gallons all the way up to the bottom of the fuel cap. Yes, fully vented. My car would take a few more turnovers than normal to fire when it's that low as well.

 

[TDIL3dad]

Yesterday if found out the point where I start to run out of fuel (started dying on the interstate), shut it off, bought a gas can and some fuel, put fuel in said a prayer to the diesel gods and got it to the fuel station on the other side of the interstate. Turns out the point at which it begins dying is the very last red tick mark on the fuel gauge. 1310.8 miles on this tank.

I attempted to do the same on my B4V project (not vented yet) and ran out of fuel at the 3rd orange hash mark. Pulled off on side of highway and learned that AAA will bring a stranded motorist gasoline only but not diesel. Fortunately for me the flat-bed driver needed to refuel with diesel and the nearest service station was less than 1 mile at the bottom of an exit ramp from where I pulled off.

Since no other symptoms, I am assume that I have a bad sender and I don't think they're difficult to replace.

 

[john.jackson9213]

Since no other symptoms, I am assume that I have a bad sender and I don't think they're difficult to replace.

Nothing wrong with your sender. You may want to adjust it. There is a procedure in the Bentley. I adjusted mine a number of years ago.

Next time you are very low on fuel - measure the resistance of the sender unit in the tank (Measure at the two wire connector on top of the tank). Write it the ohms reading. See where your fuel gauge is at that ohms reading (cell phone picture helps a whole lot.

You may want to suck out as much fuel as you can so the tank is as close to empty as possible before starting this process.

Then remove your sending unit from the tank. Measure resistance at top and bottom of motion range. I forget what it is, but the bentley has it.

Plug sender back in to wire connector and set the sender so you are at bottom of the range of motion. Should read empty on you fuel gauge. See where it is on the fuel gauge, take a picture for the record.

You adjust the sending unit by bending the float arm. Bend the arm, reinstall in tank. Measure resistance, check fuel gauge level. Repeat as required till you get the fuel gauge reading where you want.

I made 10 or 12 different adjustments before I was happy with the results.

 

[Bob S.]

I attempted to do the same on my B4V project (not vented yet) and ran out of fuel at the 3rd orange hash mark.

I have noticed not run mine under the 2rd orange hash mark. Twice, I have noticed that mine is slow starting at the 3rd hash mark. I understood that to be about the lower limits of my comfort zone.

John, thanks for the info on adjusting the sending unit.

 

[hip001]

Installed "Wink" 5-panel rear view mirror. My wagon was missing the rear view mirror when I bought her.

 

[yakko]

Hmmmmmm! I started my HVAC install last week end.

 

[yakko]

I never realized the rats nest of wiring these cars have!

 

[Steve Addy]

I never realized the rats nest of wiring these cars have!

You think that's bad, try combining harnesses from Mk3, B3 and B4 in one car...now that's fun!

Steve

 

[yakko]

You think that's bad, try combining harnesses from Mk3, B3 and B4 in one car...now that's fun!

Steve

I will be having that fun too. I'm doing the 1z install for my 91 IDI car. I hope the manual is right on the wiring. I can just imagine the fun you had!