The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[Digital Corpus]

I have the Eurowires kit in mine with DRLs. I think I'm going to order a fog light leveling kit from him to save myself the headache. They are high quality kits to say the least.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

The Ol' B4 received an oil change,oil filter,air filter,cabin filter,and fuel filter. I'm not fond of the Napa Gold #3896 fuel filter-longer than the Mann,and the therm-T seemed like it was not a tight enough fit(I still have the Mann fuel filter from the pack). I am getting some small air bubbles,but no starting/driveability problems so far.The fuel line that goes to the IP looks sketchy where it clamps to the filter. Drained about 7-1/2 ounces of oil out of intercooler. Checked the gear oil-looks a little dark,so I need to get some and change that. Still need to address the LCA bushings. Finally able to give it a sponge bath tonight.

 

[PeeWee]

Got back yesterday from the Ohio trip. The B4S ran like champ all the way there and back. Filled up just before we left so far 550 miles on half a tank @ 70 mph for the return trip...of course thats the big half of the tank.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Cut open an old intake manifold for making a custom one. Mind you this one had already been cleaned fairly well, or what we thought was fairly well:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=384333

 

[thesupercat]

Did a front end alignment, and got it right this time!

I had been messing with the camber and couldn't figure out why my tires were scrubbing on the outside with negative 1 degree of camber. ?? I had checked the toe-in before messing with camber, so I figured it was right. Well everything was pointing to toe in, so I checked and sure enough, a half inch! Now that I think about the geometry, if you move the top of the wheel in, the tires will steer towards each other because the tie rod ends are higher than the lower ball joints.

Anyway, the part that I am most happy about is that I decided to get the steering wheel straight when going straight down the road. So as I moved the tie rods to get 1/32 to 1/16 toe in I also straightened the steering wheel, then sighted down the tires very carefully to have the plain equally offset from the rear wheels. (About an inch, cause rear axel is narrower than the front.) What do you know? First test drive renders the steering wheel perfectly straight when going straight down the road! I just have to pat myself on the back. Didn't think it was going to work that good, but surprised myself!! Also centers out good and is real nice to drive!

-Scott

 

[TdiYardie]

Replaced right rear window regulator. Rather do 4 rear regulators than do one front!

 

[FordGuy100]

Replaced the cluster. Looks like the glowplug code I have sets the CEL.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Filled the Passat, 814 miles, 17 gallons. 47.9 again. I'm getting used to this. And it took over a month to drive it that far. Lots of local stuff.

 

[john.jackson9213]

Started to install my replacement fog lights and turn signals I got from Amazon last night. Failed to read the part about uses 2 wire European plug for the turn signals. Fog light connections are different also. At least the dummy plates in the center fit!

Stupid Gringo buys Chinese CRAP and not happy!

 

[TonyJetta]

Stupid Gringo buys Chinese CRAP and not happy!

Not to rub it in...CRAP is an acronym....

wait

for

it

Chinese Replacement Auto Parts.

I can't resist poking a little fun.

Seriously...sorry to hear about the issues with the fog lights. Got a pic of the connector on the lights?

Tony

 

[Abacus]

No problem, John. Your solution lies here and here.

Tony, he may know about the acronym already, which is why it's all capitalized. After all Crap is not always CRAP, but CRAP is always Crap.

 

[john.jackson9213]

Have thought about the terminal tool kit in the past! As for the soldering iron - I have a "Made in the USA" Weller 8100 that must be 45 years old, at least. Works like a champ. No CRAP there!

Think I will just order Hella glass replacement lenses for the fog lights and be done with it.

No problem, John. Your solution lies here and here.

Tony, he may know about the acronym already, which is why it's all capitalized. After all Crap is not always CRAP, but CRAP is always Crap.

 

[TonyJetta]

Tony, hthow about the acronym already, which is why it's all capitalized. After all Crap is not always CRAP, but CRAP is always Crap.

I thought about that. Then I thought I should just state the obvious.

Tony

 

[DasTeknoViking]

Does anyone know if a stock intercooler is similar to that of any other VAG US car? I have been putting off my front mount intercooler install as I don't want to cut up my euro bumper. My stock cooler is leaking very bad.

Maybe just buy another stock one if anyone has one?

Sorry for a off topic question but I thought most B4 guys come here anyways :-D

Mike

 

[fastrabbit]

where did you get a euro bumper?

 

[DasTeknoViking]

I have family in Poland who run a salvage yard. I didn't want to mess around with headlight washers so it's one off a CL

Sent from USS Enterprise

 

[fastrabbit]

I want one

 

[Abacus]

Noticed the wagon had a much higher IAT than my sedan on the scangauge, too high for what I thought it should be and it didn't respond fast enough for my liking. Swapped the IAT sensor for a spare out of inventory and it dropped 20°.

Then I washed the engine and my voltage dropped to 12.5 and would fluctuate to 13.9 until it dried out, so I'll toss on another alternator I have on the shelf. The last of the 8 codes is an intermittent alt signal the PO battled for many years and it always checked out fine. I'm willing to bet the replacement alt was also bad. If not, I'll dig into the wiring.

Had some used tires swapped on (yep, from my inventory) and noticed the rear brakes were metal-metal, and a rear wheel bearing is noticeable (ie:if I can hear it, it's probably bad), so I ordered new rotors & pads from IDParts and sourced Timkin bearings locally. I'll change them in the next few days. I have spares, but prefer new when it comes to rotors.

It also goes into limp mode if I'm sustaining 18+ psi up a large hill, so I'll switch the boost lines to silicone and toss on another N75.

 

[TonyJetta]

Had some used tires swapped on (yep, from my inventory)...I have spares, but prefer new when it comes to rotors.

What parts don't you have on hand?

It also goes into limp mode if I'm sustaining 18+ psi up a large hill, so I'll switch the boost lines to silicone and toss on another N75.

Double check the red & blue hoses. Mine were revered, at the turbo, for years, until I was running logs for a tune 1.5 yrs ago, and would exhibit the same symptoms.

PS: your injectors will be shipped out no later than Tuesday...Thanks!

Tony

 

[Abacus]

Trust me, I don't have everything on hand, but I do have a pretty good amount, especially the big items.

Thanks for sending them back, I hope you like your new ones. I can't wait to get these into the gray wagon, I just hope the clutch holds, I don't need to do 2 of them in the next month. I have enough going on.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last night I had to replace a tie rod end that failed, it lasted 3 years. I also had to replace the rear wheel bearings on the passenger's side that were loud. I replaced them not even 20,000 miles ago.

Shocker....

The bearings said "Made in Germany" on the package and not "made in China", which is why I decided to give them a try. Silly me. They were replaced with SKF bearings and repacked with the same Amzoil synthetic grease I always use.

The tie rod end was dry, but at least it lasted 3 years. I replaced it with an Altrom "Made in Italy" joint that I have used on all the other cars, I just hadn't decided not to use CRAP parts when I did mine back then.

I also tore apart my drivers door handle and cleaned it since it was sticking slightly. Half the tumblers in the lock were not moving and the door handle was pretty gummy from lubricant buildup over the years. I cleaned the handle and re-keyed with a new lockset and it's smooth as silk again. After doing them for other people, I figured I should probably do my own.

Then I welded up a 3-point hitch for a co-worker, so he can haul his dump trailer behind his John Deere tractor.
.

 

[TDIL3dad]

1. AC service to get ready for warm weather done at local VW dealership complete with requisite stickers

.
2. Electrical upgrades and repairs completed so I now have: Heated seats, heated washer nozzles, side marker lights, and rear fog light.
3. Replaced original two horns and clock spring as the repair for horn not working in cold temperatures. Will only find out if mystery horn problem is fixed when we have cooler weather again.
4. Determined that source of hidden leak was broken and torn vapor barrier / sound insulation panels inside two front doors.
5. Added B5 OEM reflectors on inside of all 4 doors. VW part # 7F0945105

BTW, the instructions on how to install wiring harness to heated washer nozzles and seats I found by searching this forum were spot on. The heated nozzles are always on. The switch for the rear window defrost also activates heat to mirrors. The heat to the seats is activated from the roller switch (I pulled from GLX at local yard).

 

[Mcgink]

Trust me, I don't have everything on hand, but I do have a pretty good amount, especially the big items.

Thanks for sending them back, I hope you like your new ones. I can't wait to get these into the gray wagon, I just hope the clutch holds, I don't need to do 2 of them in the next month. I have enough going on.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last night I had to replace a tie rod end that failed, it lasted 3 years. I also had to replace the rear wheel bearings on the passenger's side that were loud. I replaced them not even 20,000 miles ago.

Shocker....

The bearings said "Made in Germany" on the package and not "made in China", which is why I decided to give them a try. Silly me. They were replaced with SKF bearings and repacked with the same Amzoil synthetic grease I always use.

The tie rod end was dry, but at least it lasted 3 years. I replaced it with an Altrom "Made in Italy" joint that I have used on all the other cars, I just hadn't decided not to use CRAP parts when I did mine back then.

I also tore apart my drivers door handle and cleaned it since it was sticking slightly. Half the tumblers in the lock were not moving and the door handle was pretty gummy from lubricant buildup over the years. I cleaned the handle and re-keyed with a new lockset and it's smooth as silk again. After doing them for other people, I figured I should probably do my own.

Then I welded up a 3-point hitch for a co-worker, so he can haul his dump trailer behind his John Deere tractor.
.

I think that there must have been a bad batch of bearings. Both of mine were Guru replaced. I had one Fail in route to FL and then the other side Failed on the return trip.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Actually hit a deer and escaped WITHOUT damage for once....5am-just left for work -about 1/4 mile from home a deer(couldn't tell if it was doe or buck)ran in front of me-I was able to slow some,but my left front bumper seemed to hit deer around the rear leg-knee area-deer keept running to west-I stopped,luckily no scrapes,nothing broken or cracked. Looked in my mirror-saw 3 more of those rotten animals running across road.I turned around to see if it was in grass anywhere-nothing in sight. Another foot and I would have probably had $2k-$3k damage..... mysterious leak on my cement floor,near driver's side-don't know where that came from-still left spot after cleaning w/brake parts cleaner.Does the tranny mount have fluid? I noticed that will need to be replaced.....

 

[Abacus]

Some of them were hydraulic, mine is. They're being phased out and hard to find now.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Gave it another bath tonight. I also decided to clean the engine bay some.I used some spray degreaser,let it soak a couple minutes,then hosed down. Looks better.It hasn't leaked on ground since I noticed in garage Friday morning-thought it might have been the ps rack seal again,but the fluid was still at max level. Guess I'll find out eventually....I'm thinking I should replace the LCA bushings in the new LCA arms I bought off ebay w/ some better bushings. I see what the "Duralast" outer tie rod boots look like after 1 winter,figure the installed bushings not much better.

 

[BamaB4S]

10K mile oil change. Pentosin High Performance II 5W40, Mann filter. She has 165K miles and purrs.

 

[Abacus]

On the wagon I replaced the driver's headlight assembly because it was full of water. While I was in there, I performed the headlight modifications: replaced the low beam bulb & socket with high beams and added the jumper to the fuse box relay so both headlights stay on at the same time. Noaluxed all the connections.

Then I removed & cleaned/lubed the door switches so my interior lights now work when I open the doors.

Tomorrow I get to replace the rear rotors and brake pads since I forgot my tool box in the sedan. The new Zimmerman rotors and SKF bearing assemblies are all set to go, so it shouldn't take too long.

 

[Campbellonh]

Tomorrow I get to replace the rear rotors and brake pads since I forgot my tool box in the sedan. The new Zimmerman rotors and SKF bearing assemblies are all set to go, so it shouldn't take too long.

Where did you get the new bearings? I think I need to do mine again already. Its only been a year, maybe 28,000 miles, but I had Meyle bearings too. My rotors are still in very good shape, but i am starting to notice noise and they have more play than I think is acceptable. (I hate doing them though. May pay someone to do them instead.)

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Seems one of the problems with these rear bearings is some lack of clarity on the torque spec for the axle nut. I'm told the Bentley doesn't provide a spec, others say it's 50 ft/lbs. I'm not certain what it's supposed to be.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Seems one of the problems with these rear bearings is some lack of clarity on the torque spec for the axle nut. I'm told the Bentley doesn't provide a spec, others say it's 50 ft/lbs. I'm not certain what it's supposed to be.

I don't really think you can put a spec on it. When I did mine last year,I tightened it up slightly,put wheel on,then tried to spin wheel.I tightened till I couldn't spin wheel,then backed the nut off until wheel would spin w/ a little resistance(I'd say backed off between 1/4-1/2 turn). I rechecked after a month or so,then re-tightened them. I can't remember what brand I bought. I think this weekend will be busy-I need to change the tranny mount,and need to get my summer tires mounted.