Not to rub it in...CRAP is an acronym....Stupid Gringo buys Chinese CRAP and not happy!
What parts don't you have on hand?Had some used tires swapped on (yep, from my inventory)...I have spares, but prefer new when it comes to rotors.
Double check the red & blue hoses. Mine were revered, at the turbo, for years, until I was running logs for a tune 1.5 yrs ago, and would exhibit the same symptoms.It also goes into limp mode if I'm sustaining 18+ psi up a large hill, so I'll switch the boost lines to silicone and toss on another N75.
I think that there must have been a bad batch of bearings. Both of mine were Guru replaced. I had one Fail in route to FL and then the other side Failed on the return trip.Trust me, I don't have everything on hand, but I do have a pretty good amount, especially the big items.
Thanks for sending them back, I hope you like your new ones. I can't wait to get these into the gray wagon, I just hope the clutch holds, I don't need to do 2 of them in the next month. I have enough going on.
Last night I had to replace a tie rod end that failed, it lasted 3 years. I also had to replace the rear wheel bearings on the passenger's side that were loud. I replaced them not even 20,000 miles ago.
The bearings said "Made in Germany" on the package and not "made in China", which is why I decided to give them a try. Silly me. They were replaced with SKF bearings and repacked with the same Amzoil synthetic grease I always use.
The tie rod end was dry, but at least it lasted 3 years. I replaced it with an Altrom "Made in Italy" joint that I have used on all the other cars, I just hadn't decided not to use CRAP parts when I did mine back then.
I also tore apart my drivers door handle and cleaned it since it was sticking slightly. Half the tumblers in the lock were not moving and the door handle was pretty gummy from lubricant buildup over the years. I cleaned the handle and re-keyed with a new lockset and it's smooth as silk again. After doing them for other people, I figured I should probably do my own.
Then I welded up a 3-point hitch for a co-worker, so he can haul his dump trailer behind his John Deere tractor.
Where did you get the new bearings? I think I need to do mine again already. Its only been a year, maybe 28,000 miles, but I had Meyle bearings too. My rotors are still in very good shape, but i am starting to notice noise and they have more play than I think is acceptable. (I hate doing them though. May pay someone to do them instead.)Tomorrow I get to replace the rear rotors and brake pads since I forgot my tool box in the sedan. The new Zimmerman rotors and SKF bearing assemblies are all set to go, so it shouldn't take too long.
I don't really think you can put a spec on it. When I did mine last year,I tightened it up slightly,put wheel on,then tried to spin wheel.I tightened till I couldn't spin wheel,then backed the nut off until wheel would spin w/ a little resistance(I'd say backed off between 1/4-1/2 turn). I rechecked after a month or so,then re-tightened them. I can't remember what brand I bought. I think this weekend will be busy-I need to change the tranny mount,and need to get my summer tires mounted.Seems one of the problems with these rear bearings is some lack of clarity on the torque spec for the axle nut. I'm told the Bentley doesn't provide a spec, others say it's 50 ft/lbs. I'm not certain what it's supposed to be.