IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
My guru installed new mounts in my sedan when I had the timing belt service done a few weeks ago. The improvement in noise and vibration was dramatic.
The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...
- Thread starter Windex
- Start date
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
That's good to hear, hopefully the same will be true for me!
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Finished up the engine mounts today. The differences were immediate, some good and some bad. 
Most noticeably the whole car shakes much more at idle. It was a bit jarring at first, but I'm getting used to it. It's also a bit noisier, just from the fact that more vibrations are being transferred. Seems like I can hear the whirring of the transmission bearings which wasn't a thing before. But on the plus side it's smoother on the highway, everything feels more stable, and oddly enough the shifter feels even tighter. Guess it helps that the left side of the engine isn't sagging an inch anymore.
The popping noise I mentioned is still there sometimes, but not as bad now. I pulled back on my ramps and looked over everything underneath. I couldn't find any places on the suspension components that appeared to be rubbing, and all the bolts were tight. The struts are still in good condition and return immediately after I bounce them. There is no play in the wheel bearings or ball joints. I'm wondering if it's not related to the sway bar, because the popping only seems to happen when one side is suddenly higher or lower than the other, or I'm banking really hard on a curve. Nonetheless I don't think it's a very pressing issue, albeit annoying.
Finally I made a quick stop at the car wash and then drove down to Green River Lake.
Most noticeably the whole car shakes much more at idle. It was a bit jarring at first, but I'm getting used to it. It's also a bit noisier, just from the fact that more vibrations are being transferred. Seems like I can hear the whirring of the transmission bearings which wasn't a thing before. But on the plus side it's smoother on the highway, everything feels more stable, and oddly enough the shifter feels even tighter. Guess it helps that the left side of the engine isn't sagging an inch anymore.
The popping noise I mentioned is still there sometimes, but not as bad now. I pulled back on my ramps and looked over everything underneath. I couldn't find any places on the suspension components that appeared to be rubbing, and all the bolts were tight. The struts are still in good condition and return immediately after I bounce them. There is no play in the wheel bearings or ball joints. I'm wondering if it's not related to the sway bar, because the popping only seems to happen when one side is suddenly higher or lower than the other, or I'm banking really hard on a curve. Nonetheless I don't think it's a very pressing issue, albeit annoying.
Finally I made a quick stop at the car wash and then drove down to Green River Lake.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
From what I've seen watching my guru do this, getting the engine properly centered on new mounts is a bit of a black art. He grabs the valve cover and rocks it back and forth until he feels it's in the right place. I have no idea how he can tell. But given the condition of the mounts you removed, maybe the drivetrain needs to be repositioned slightly to reduce the vibration at idle. With the new mounts in my B4, it's much smoother at idle. And on shut down. The shudder is less noticeable.
I had a really loud popping noise when turning the wheel right after I had an alignment done. Turns out it was the sway bar endlink, the big dished washer on the bottom of the control arm was binding on the edge of the divot. Loosening the bolt and shifting the washer a bit solved itFinished up the engine mounts today. The differences were immediate, some good and some bad.
Most noticeably the whole car shakes much more at idle. It was a bit jarring at first, but I'm getting used to it. It's also a bit noisier, just from the fact that more vibrations are being transferred. Seems like I can hear the whirring of the transmission bearings which wasn't a thing before. But on the plus side it's smoother on the highway, everything feels more stable, and oddly enough the shifter feels even tighter. Guess it helps that the left side of the engine isn't sagging an inch anymore.
The popping noise I mentioned is still there sometimes, but not as bad now. I pulled back on my ramps and looked over everything underneath. I couldn't find any places on the suspension components that appeared to be rubbing, and all the bolts were tight. The struts are still in good condition and return immediately after I bounce them. There is no play in the wheel bearings or ball joints. I'm wondering if it's not related to the sway bar, because the popping only seems to happen when one side is suddenly higher or lower than the other, or I'm banking really hard on a curve. Nonetheless I don't think it's a very pressing issue, albeit annoying.
Finally I made a quick stop at the car wash and then drove down to Green River Lake.
View attachment 138353
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Got a couple of last-minute projects done before we head out on Friday.
I've been having problems with my alternator over-volting periodically. I'd start it up one day and my scangauge would show 16-17 volts depending on RPM. (verified with multimeter) It was high enough that if I went over 2100 or so RPM my cluster would stop working until the voltage dropped back down. This happened two or three times over the last six months, and I didn't really bother to try fixing it until last week. Seems there was an intermittent short in the blue reference wire feeding the alternator, so I partially dismantled the harness and patched up any frays I found. Although I didn't see any obvious damage to the reference wire, I think just unwrapping everything and laying the wires out more nicely did a good enough job.
But unfortunately the damage to the alternator had already been done, and it burned up the voltage regulator. I have a spare alternator that needs new slip rings, so I swapped the voltage regulators and all is good again. The bad one had some clear damage.
For anyone wanting to verify a bad regulator while off the engine - there should be NO continuity between the two slip ring contacts. I was getting about 400 ohms on the bad one, and the good one had no continuity.
I've been having problems with my alternator over-volting periodically. I'd start it up one day and my scangauge would show 16-17 volts depending on RPM. (verified with multimeter) It was high enough that if I went over 2100 or so RPM my cluster would stop working until the voltage dropped back down. This happened two or three times over the last six months, and I didn't really bother to try fixing it until last week. Seems there was an intermittent short in the blue reference wire feeding the alternator, so I partially dismantled the harness and patched up any frays I found. Although I didn't see any obvious damage to the reference wire, I think just unwrapping everything and laying the wires out more nicely did a good enough job.
But unfortunately the damage to the alternator had already been done, and it burned up the voltage regulator. I have a spare alternator that needs new slip rings, so I swapped the voltage regulators and all is good again. The bad one had some clear damage.
For anyone wanting to verify a bad regulator while off the engine - there should be NO continuity between the two slip ring contacts. I was getting about 400 ohms on the bad one, and the good one had no continuity.
Last edited:
HardToHandle
Well-known member
I replaced the injection pump on my car a little while back, while I was in there I did a timing belt and a front main seal. I got the pump from Cascade German
After I replaced the pump I had trouble getting the #4 line to seal on the delivery valve side - and it was just barely leaking. I tried my best to polish it up but I had not luck
So after a bit of looking I found these
note: the picture on the listing shows a set of ALH lines but the listing are in fact for a 1z/AHU
They fit perfect and I haven't had any issues with them leaking at all. However, I was a bit confused when the first set of lines showed up because it said "ALH" on the bag. I messaged the seller and he got back to me pretty quickly and sent me the correct lines, he didn't even want the ALH lines back!
So to pay it forward if anyone wants this new set of ALH lines let me know, if you cover the cost of shipping they can be yours
After I replaced the pump I had trouble getting the #4 line to seal on the delivery valve side - and it was just barely leaking. I tried my best to polish it up but I had not luck
So after a bit of looking I found these
note: the picture on the listing shows a set of ALH lines but the listing are in fact for a 1z/AHU
They fit perfect and I haven't had any issues with them leaking at all. However, I was a bit confused when the first set of lines showed up because it said "ALH" on the bag. I messaged the seller and he got back to me pretty quickly and sent me the correct lines, he didn't even want the ALH lines back!
So to pay it forward if anyone wants this new set of ALH lines let me know, if you cover the cost of shipping they can be yours
TDIDaveNH
Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Did some more work on I-red, trailer wiring using my old guide, an oil change, stainless front brake lines and then got the two rear door handles working again from one missing and one pushed-out roll pin. I had forgotten how much better the pedal feel gets with SS lines, the old ones looked original and were definitely due.
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
just bought one and drove it home @TDIDaveNH - you happen to have any b4/b4-wagon black interior bits? need to get rid of the ugly grey...
@TDIDaveNH - you happen to have any b4/b4-wagon black interior bits? need to get rid of the ugly grey...
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Finally a B4 owner?!just bought one and drove it home
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Made it to sunny Keystone CO. Car performed admirably the whole way, but the last couple hundred miles got a lot worse fuel mileage with a lot more smoke. 
Planning to drive up Pike's Peak tomorrow.
Planning to drive up Pike's Peak tomorrow.
Last edited:
GTiTDi
TDIClub Enthusiast, Macht Schnell! Vendor , w/Busi
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2010
- TDI
- '91 GTI CJAA swap,'02 Jetta wagon ALH swap, '03 GTI 1.8T rally car, '03 Sprinter 3500
yay for rust buckets! parts cars ready when you arejust bought one and drove it home
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Just got back from our 3,500 mile trip. All went well, and we had a great time! I could definitely tell my engine didn't like the thin air too much, but we rolled some coal and made it work. Put one quart of oil in it over the entire time we were gone - half a quart when we got there, and half a quart before we left. My 3rd gear synchro is giving me a little trouble, mostly after I drive it for a couple hundred miles and it starts getting warm. Fuel mileage was pretty mixed depending on the terrain, but I averaged right at 45 MPG with 79.8 gallons over 3,586 miles, which I would say is pretty good for three people, luggage, and a loaded down cargo rack.
A random thing I noticed - after putting in new engine mounts, my clutch doesn't slip anymore. The only thing I can rationalize is that the torque is getting distributed more evenly when the engine is propped up correctly, but I really have no idea. @burpod , what do you think?
Just a bit down from Pike's Peak summit.
A cool Vanagon I found in South Park (Fairplay)
Red Rocks Park. I literally found that red cooler on the side of the road when we were going to Pike's Peak, so I brought it home with me.
A random thing I noticed - after putting in new engine mounts, my clutch doesn't slip anymore. The only thing I can rationalize is that the torque is getting distributed more evenly when the engine is propped up correctly, but I really have no idea. @burpod , what do you think?
Just a bit down from Pike's Peak summit.
A cool Vanagon I found in South Park (Fairplay)
Red Rocks Park. I literally found that red cooler on the side of the road when we were going to Pike's Peak, so I brought it home with me.
alanack
Veteran Member
Blew the turbo in my B4V acting like a degenerate....
Whats a good drop in turbo for it?
Car has a tune, injectors, head studs, "egr improvement".
Whats a good drop in turbo for it?
Car has a tune, injectors, head studs, "egr improvement".
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
We kind of went over this in a different thread recently, but pretty much the only drop-in turbo you're going to find is the K03 K04 hybrid. Anything else is going to require a combination of tune, rear engine bracket, exhaust manifold, downpipe, charge pipes, etc.
alanack
Veteran Member
Yeah that's what I was afraid off....
Looks like a drop in Garrett or BW from kerma is my only route.
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
if you get a turbo from powertdi you can specify your chassis - he will weld it to fit - and you an skip the motor mount bracket. i just got a gtd2060vz big ass turbo. i just test fit it, i'm 99% sure it would fit without the low profile bracket. but of course you'd still need the downpipe flange changed. tuning will have to be changed anyway so no big deal
alanack
Veteran Member
Idk what I have for a tune. Car builds wayy to much boost like a rocket. I can't tell if the wastegate is stuck or the car is just blowing through.
Pedals wayy to sensitive for my liking too
Might throw a stock ecm in it and see what changes
JordanTr
Veteran Member
V gang is finally united!
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Replaced cylinder head coolant flange on the B3V TDI.
Steve
Steve
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
Did you go with an all metal one?
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
I did not, used one I had in stock. The one I replaced was the forward facing flange for the upper rad hose and reservoir circulation connection.
Steve
JordanTr
Veteran Member
For the first time in almost 2 years, there’s been a B4 GLX at a semi local wrecker (250 miles). I was able to scoop all 8 Hella front lights/reflectors and the caliper carriers for 11” rotors. I also got the rear carpet, hood insulation, some trim, and a nice ebrake boot. Front fenders and all door panels, latches, and handles were all gone already and the car had only been there a few days. Hopefully I have a line on a + suspension dropout that’s not at PnP prices… we will see if that comes to fruition.
Was doing some investigating on my car today trying to sort an EGR fault, and unfortunately found an annoying problem. The nipple for the vacuum connection to the EGR was broken, unsure how considering it was working fairly recently. Ignoring that, I was shocked to find the price of N18 Valves is insanity. Was trying to read a few forums about homemade connectors to connect to a newer style without the square plug, but I seem to have come up short. Would love to save a few bucks if anyone has a solution for this, otherwise I'll suck it up and purchase the OE part. Anyone have any direction they can point me into?
alanack
Veteran Member
Kerma tune then you will have some spare parts.
haha I wish but unfortunately need it for the heat in the winter. I live in the city and don't really have the longer trips necessary to wait for heat to be made without it. If I lived elsewhere I most certainly would.
turbodieseldyke
Top Post Dawg
JB Weld
Speaking of powertdi, Xman has that bolt on gt1749s hybrid. Havent really seen too many reviews on it though
Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
“The nipple for the vacuum connection to the EGR was broken”
Drill, tap, and thread in a new one.
Drill, tap, and thread in a new one.
thechoochlyman
Vendor , w/Business number
Been having issues with my blower motor not putting out as much as as it used to. At 340k miles I figured it was getting about time to replace, as I'd already put relays on the circuit a long time ago to keep the switch from getting hot. Old motor was pulling 10.68 amps on high. I took one out of a parts car with a lot fewer miles, and that one is pulling 9.71 amps on high. At first it seemed like a good improvement, but now I think this one is weak too. I can't help but feel like maybe there's something inhibiting airflow, but I already fixed the blend doors and there's not any more foam in there. Doesn't matter whether it's on hot/cold, fresh air/recirc, or vent/defrost. I might have to take a chance on the $50 chinese replacement to see if it's any better.
As part of my troubleshooting, I wanted to see if the airflow would change any with fresh air vs recirculating it. Many years ago I rigged up the fresh air flap with a pull cable because the rubber diaphram was bad. I guess it had been in one position long enough that the cable froze up, so I tried pushing down the flap from under the hood. The flap went down, but I think it broke off one of the mounting tabs. I took photos of a spare hvac box I had to examine the linkage a bit better.
Unfortunately I don't think there will be any fixing the actuation of the fresh air flap until I need to change the heater core (hopefully never!), so for now I have a hard drive magnet holding the door closed. I rarely ever opened it anyway.
As part of my troubleshooting, I wanted to see if the airflow would change any with fresh air vs recirculating it. Many years ago I rigged up the fresh air flap with a pull cable because the rubber diaphram was bad. I guess it had been in one position long enough that the cable froze up, so I tried pushing down the flap from under the hood. The flap went down, but I think it broke off one of the mounting tabs. I took photos of a spare hvac box I had to examine the linkage a bit better.
Unfortunately I don't think there will be any fixing the actuation of the fresh air flap until I need to change the heater core (hopefully never!), so for now I have a hard drive magnet holding the door closed. I rarely ever opened it anyway.