The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[JordanTr]

Finished up the install of the 02J shifter upgrade in the b4v last night. The bushings on the old one were worn but intact and I’d find that I would struggle to get into first sometimes. This has been eliminated with the new shifter which is great. The gates feel crisper and the throw feels a bit shorter so I’m pretty happy with it!

I spent longer than I care to admit getting the shift box to fit since the mk4 box is ~30mm shorter than the b4 one. I wanted to properly seal the box to the cabin and bolt it in like the factory. I welded up a plate with a stud for the front mounting position and elongated the holes for the rear mounting. I planed down and cut out a piece of rigid XPS foam to fill the 30mm gap above. Once tightened, the foam is good and squished/sealed. I initially chopped apart the top of the b4 shift box in hopes of grafting it to a plate that bolts to the mk4 box but the were too many conflicting areas for that to be very viable.

Now, it’s all hidden under the console and out of sight!

Trans looks like it needed the oil change and got a fresh 2qts of penzoil synchromesh in the process.

Was it worthwhile? Maybe.
Thankfully the whole shifter swap setup was only $40. Would love the Polo shift box for easy install but that breaks the budget.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Got several odds and ends done today. Started off by cleaning off the areas on the bottom of my car where the rust holes are. Sprayed some Ospho on there to hopefully stop the rust from spreading and made a stainless steel plate to cover it with. Unfortunately I couldn't find my tube of windshield urethane, so applying the plates will have to wait another week.







Moving to the interior, I spliced in an additional OBD port so I could hopefully use my Scangauge II and take VCDS logs simultaneously, but apparently it won't work. At least now it will be easier to plug in VCDS when I need it.



Finally, I replaced the three upper lights in my gauge cluster with LEDs. I thought the new lights would simply plug in to the twist connectors, but apparently they are integrated with the bulbs somehow. Not to worry - some short wires and solder saved the day.





Now it's time to change the oil and front brake hoses on my brother-in-law's B5.

 

[ToddA1]

I initially chopped apart the top of the b4 shift box in hopes of grafting it to a plate that bolts to the mk4 box but the were too many conflicting areas for that to be very viable.

That’s how I did it. Welded scrap metal together to make it happen.

Sprayed some Ospho on there to hopefully stop the rust from spreading

Isn’t that just mild acid? You’ll still want to coat the metal with something…

I thought the new lights would simply plug in to the twist connectors, but apparently they are integrated with the bulbs somehow.

I used bulb bases from an old Subaru Loyale… look pretty identical. Those bulbs were removable.

-Todd

 

[thechoochlyman]

Isn’t that just mild acid? You’ll still want to coat the metal with something…

Essentially yes, but it does change the rust into iron phosphate which should stop the spread. I figure the urethane will adhere better to bare metal than to whatever paint I could coat it with first. And then I'll spread some urethane around and over the plate to blend it into the surrounding undercoat.

 

[ToddA1]

I used to use a lot of phosphoric acid when doing rust repair. It‘s always recommended to topcoat with paint. Seems like you’re trying to use (window?) urethane as an encapsulator. Every windshield I’ve ever had glued in, (the most recent was a couple weeks ago) the frame was treated with a black primer, that was applied with a dauber. I was told it‘s to seal any bare metal, and it also acts as an adhesion promoter. My frame had a couple rotted areas that needed rust repair… I sanded the entire inner frame/pinch weld with 80g, and sprayed Rustoleum. This is what I’d normally do…. never an issue. All cars‘ pinch welds are painted, prior to urethane.




I went to Ospho’s site, and they recommended its use under oil based primer and paint.

Ospho

I gave up on most of Eastwood‘s products and POR-15 didn’t wow me. I went back to Rustoleum, typically from a can, but occasionally aerosol. Everything they offer is oil based, other than their universal primer. As rough/rusted as your metal is, the paint will grab.

-Todd

 

[Starion_slider]

Having a new issue with my 1996 B4 TDi that maybe someone here can help me diagnose. I went to roll down the drivers side rear window and all the door locks in the car locked on me. After getting out of the car I went to use the driver side central lock to see if they would still lock or unlock and no luck, only unlocks the driver door. Seems that the central locking system is out of order for now, which also means fuel door wont open. Any suggestions on where to start looking, whether it be the vacuum pump in the trunk, fuses, door wires etc.? Those seem to be the likely culprit from my initial research but just wanted to see if anyone had a similar issue at some point or another. Thanks in advance

Mine does that SAME thing. Nobody sits back there so its never been a problem but I think its door harness related. Might be missing a ground or something and when you hit window button it’s stealing it from centeral lock and mabey activating it. I been daily driving mine for over 12years and I think that is one problem I’ve avoided even caring about for at least 10yrs hahaha. Gotta love B4’s

 

[Abacus]

I would not use windshield urethane, I would instead use something designed for it like 3M 5200. It's designed to adhere panels permanently and will seal out air, which causes rust. The salt water boat guys use it all the time and swear by it. It's been known on the islands of Maine to even keep aircraft panels in place. I used it to coat the welds (after the Ospho acid) to seal out the air and moisture, and coated the non-welded parts in POR-15. Not an issue having to redo any rustwork after that. I also preferred it to welding around the fuel lines and was comfortable knowing it was a permanent patch.

There is also 3M 4200, which is fast curing (the 5200 takes a week but is stronger). Both are pretty inexpensive and easy to apply, but don't get any on clothing since it's permanent.

I went one step further to prevent rust: I moved to Arizona. However, this is probably the most expensive option.

 

[thechoochlyman]

I would not use windshield urethane, I would instead use something designed for it like 3M 5200. It's designed to adhere panels permanently and will seal out air, which causes rust. The salt water boat guys use it all the time and swear by it. It's been known on the islands of Maine to even keep aircraft panels in place. I used it to coat the welds (after the Ospho acid) to seal out the air and moisture, and coated the non-welded parts in POR-15. Not an issue having to redo any rustwork after that. I also preferred it to welding around the fuel lines and was comfortable knowing it was a permanent patch.

There is also 3M 4200, which is fast curing (the 5200 takes a week but is stronger). Both are pretty inexpensive and easy to apply, but don't get any on clothing since it's permanent.

I went one step further to prevent rust: I moved to Arizona. However, this is probably the most expensive option.

Very nice, I'll definitely give that a look!

 

[ToddA1]

I looked at the TDS for 5200. Metal is a recommended substrate, but It didn’t mention if the metal could be raw. Primer is optional, but wasn’t mandated. I‘d call tech support and ask about raw metal.

I know for a fact 3M makes a 2 part panel bonding adhesive, that’s designed to be used on raw metal. My body shop’s owner came to my house, and helped me glue the front clip to a project Rabbit. All the metal I sprayed got stripped, where we glued.

It’s not cheap, then you need the gun…

-Todd

 

[alanack]

My stupid A3 broke.

Shift tower snapped right where to counterweight attached. Lost my forward and back, so i was pretty much screwed.

Wasn't too far so I got it home. I ordered one for way to much money off Fleabay, off a b3 passat 16v. I didn't match up perfectly; counterweight doesnt fit so i had to go with out. Shifts fine now...

Is there a repair kit out there? Usually the side to side plastic piece breaks, i haven't seen this failure before.

Both cable ends are fine, like i said the actual tower broke.

 

[ToddA1]

I’d take it off and weld it. If you don’t own a welder, take it to a muffler shop, and ask them to do it. My local mom and pop shop was always willing to help.

-Todd

 

[alanack]

I’d take it off and weld it. If you don’t own a welder, take it to a muffler shop, and ask them to do it. My local mom and pop shop was always willing to help.

-Todd

I should be able to mig it, not sure if I could just buy that piece new.

 

[Steve Addy]

I should be able to mig it, not sure if I could just buy that piece new.

Post up a pic of the piece you're looking for, I might be able to round something up.

Steve

 

[TDIDaveNH]

Wrapped up another repair session on I-red, started with a long overdue engine compartment pressure washing, added new left & right balljoints, a new left CV axle since the boot was torn open and I managed to log over 5,000 miles on it until it started making noise. I have the right side CV but will be replacing it at the same time I'm updating the turbo oil drain line since that would be the best time for that: when I can have the car down for a couple days if anything goes wrong with the 2 turbo bolts. Passed the 300K mark with now 304,7xx miles since its being driven daily. Did lots of small stuff; swapped out a failing serp tensioner with a used one I had in inventory, a new gates metal roller and a new PS belt since the old one was thin and I was out of adjustment. Got the ABS light to go out with the addition of a new left front ABS sensor.


Lost the clutch function to a badly leaking slave cylinder that was not that old. Swapped it out with a proven original from the stash. Thankfully the clutch did not see any brake fluid.



replaced a cracked glow harness that broke apart at each cylinder with another used unit from the stash:





Noticed the 3 wire IP harness loom was never cut back, and sure enough, had to shrink wrap a couple wires





Shortly after getting the car on the road, found a leaky brake hard line for one of the rear wheels, in the worst spot for repair, right under the booster along the bottom of the firewall above the steering rack. Added fluid for a while then got tired of it real fast. Once I can down the car for a couple days I'll fix it properly but until then...



That's about it for now and so far...It just doesn't end. Going back through the records, the TB was done 14 years and 4x,xxx miles ago so that's on the short list for next time.

 

[alanack]

Jettas shifting great.

Rolled The b4 wagon in the garage.
Tensioner bushings were so far worn down it actually ate the shaft. Replaced the shaft with a used one and installed new bushings and seals. This is a PITA!!!! Grease your Tensioner shaft periodically so this doesnt happen! Installed a good used tensioner pulley that i had, since the old is flopping around. Also threw in a used alternator clutch since the stupid 1z doesnt have one.

Battery light is flickering now, but its probably just grease on the belt or something silly.

Pulled the valve cover and discovered ARP studs

 

[Benjamis]

A replacement lower TB cover is on the way, as is the lower radiator hose cradle.

Where did you get these?

 

[Abacus]

Where did you get these?

Parts from a donor car.

I FINALLY finished with Snoopy Smiles B4, what a jacked up mess that was, and it's still not 100%. I am headed to my camp in Maine for a few weeks and will do a writeup on it when there.

 

[Abacus]

Moving to the interior, I spliced in an additional OBD port so I could hopefully use my Scangauge II and take VCDS logs simultaneously, but apparently it won't work. At least now it will be easier to plug in VCDS when I need it.

View attachment 133980

Finally, I replaced the three upper lights in my gauge cluster with LEDs. I thought the new lights would simply plug in to the twist connectors, but apparently they are integrated with the bulbs somehow. Not to worry - some short wires and solder saved the day.

I bought an OBD port splitter to use with my scangauge, and it also does not allow splitting of the signal. I have a spare kicking around if anyone is interested. It plugs into the regular port, which I left hanging under the dash, and routed one to the scangauge and the other back to the original location. I just have to unplug the scangauge to hook up the Vag-Com but it's easy.

 

[Benjamis]

Parts from a donor car.

Do you happen to have a part number or pic of the radiator hose cradle handy? I never knew there was one, so I've had a couple layers of caulking tubes protecting the radiator hose in that region. Looks very professional.

 

[Abacus]

I do but they’re not uploaded yet. I’ll do that and post a picture. It’s just a u-shape cradle that mounts to the front motor mount. Although this one was jacked so I had to get creative.

 

[Benjamis]

Awesome, thanks.

 

[powerstrokeless]

On the fence about selling my B4V. Only drive it once a week, feel bad about not giving her attention. At the same time, I don't want to give it away. Have kept up with the maintenance, had things repaired at TDI suggested shops. Has only 205,000 miles on her. Any input? Advice? In Winchester VA. In case someone wants to visit her.

 

[Starion_slider]

Had a coolant leak that looked like it was from the crusty rusty steel water pipe that runs over top of trans from heater core. I had 2 in the basement brand new so i tossed one on and figured it was fixed. Had 430k on it so no big surprise. 2 days later coolant light was flashing again and it was low and leaking on top of bellhousing again in same spot. It ended up being the o-ring on the coolant flange on end of head. That was definitely original and untouched for sure since I’ve owned it (over 12yrs) . All fixed now. I honestly can’t complain about having to work on this thing much. Thats the first problem Ive had in well over a year aside from normal door handle issues that pop up. Only other thing I’ve touched in past year was i cleaned the contacts on the fuel gauge sender and fixed the gauge randomly dropping off at 1/2 tank. I still daily it everyday like 50miles with no worries.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

These two are in the IDParts warehouse right now.

They make me smile when I see them. A little bit of TDI history. And still great cars.

 

[Starion_slider]

B4’s are honestly my favorite of all the tdi’s ever made.

 

[alanack]

Honestly my B4 wagon is so much nicer than my A3. I need to get rid of the KV coils in it, its way too low.

 

[Mcgink]

These two are in the IDParts warehouse right now.

They make me smile when I see them. A little bit of TDI history. And still great cars.

Nice to keep them safe from the NE winter weather When was the last time "P" Wagon went out for a spin around the block?

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

2017. And it's not going anywhere right now. The radiator give up a couple years ago, so there's no coolant in it. The clutch hydraulics don't work. And it's been long enough since the last timing belt change that I wouldn't start it without a new timing belt.

 

[Mcgink]

A time capsule then. Hopefully the leather is holding up (We know what happens) since it's in the protection of the great indoors.

 

[Starion_slider]

My drivers seat is really the only damaged leather in my car. Rear seats are still all intact. Its my work car so it’s always full of junk and both my dogs claw up the back seat but surprisingly that 90’s vw leather has only hardened up a bit but still holds up good.