The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[TDeanI]

Well I finally got my A/C charged after I had to go to Idaho to buy R134a. Then took the dash apart again to get the heat control off. The cable slipped for the temp control when I did the heater core.

Put it back together, and now only fan speed 2 works..., but at least the heat is off and it is blowing cold air, but only on low.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

had to go to Idaho to buy R134a

That made me google "r134a washington".

Disgusting.

The atmosphere is 78% N[2] (which has a molar mass of 28 g/mol)
plus 21% O[2] (32 g/mol)
plus 1% Argon (40 g/mol)
giving a total average mass of 29 g/mol

HFC-134a (CF[3]CFH[2]) has a molar mass of 157 g/mol

Has any ""climate scientist"" proposed a plausible explanation for how a substance, 5.4 times heavier than the lower atmosphere, has magically floated 50,000 feet up to the stratosphere, where it is said to "eat holes in the ozone layer"? Or explained why they get concerned about it only when the current freon patent becomes public domain?

 

[TDeanI]

Yes, I was so pissed off when I went to buy R134a this summer. Apparently our fine Governor decided to ban R134a in January without a vote of the people, years ahead of the Federal Ban of R134a.

The substitute refrigerant we can buy at the auto parts store is about 5 x more costly and is basically odorless propane. So, if you have a leaky A/C system or a system you think you just repaired. You put odorless propane in it, and hope for the best and hope it doesn't ignite in an accident or if it is still leaking. And now you can't smell it if it is leaking??

Of course you can still buy R134a in bulk if you are a licensed refrigeration system repair person. They charge over $50/lb for R134a fills from what I have seen advertised. I can buy the R134a cans on Ebay, but they jacked them up to $40/can too.

I bought a case of R134a in Idaho, which has jacked up the price BTW. I paid $5.99 a 12 oz. can last summer at Autozone. Just paid $11.99 per 12 oz can in Idaho.

 

[Steve Addy]

Speaking of R134a...buy it while you can, because the 'next gen' refrigerant is supposedly coming and from what I've seen all the R134a has gone sky high.

I haven't been able to find anyone retailing R134a less than Walmart, and theirs is now $8.88 per can. Last summer they had some you could buy for $4 so I bought a case, but that was shut down promptly and the price raised to $8.88 for all their cheap stuff.

Steve

 

[ToddA1]

I just searched 134a and saw it for $5 a can, from a place in FL. No clue what shipping would be.

I knew this day was coming, so I stocked up last summer. I’m actually ahead of the game for once!

-Todd

 

[turbodieseldyke]

About 8 years ago i needed some, was outraged at the 12oz price, and wound up buying 30# for $90 on craigslist. I've only used 4-5 pounds so far, i think.

Back in the 80s i bought a case of R12 for $1/can to power a stupid BB gun i had. What a waste that was, but back then how could anyone predict a nonsense global ban coming so soon.

And when the service shops were gouging $50/lb for R12, they conveniently charged the same price for 134, because why not.

 

[ToddA1]

You put odorless propane in it, and hope for the best and hope it doesn't ignite in an accident or if it is still leaking. And now you can't smell it if it is leaking??

Meh, I’d run propane.… I have in the past. Most of the stuff you’re buying are blends, like propane and isobutane, etc. Redtek has been around for decades. These blends are used all over the world. I’ve used Coleman and Envirosafe. I’ve also used a variety of computer duster that was 152a..… all of this was experimental.

If you get in an accident, the condenser would leak. If you’re worried about the possibility of the evaporator leaking in an accident, you’re already in a world of hurt…

I can buy the R134a cans on Ebay, but they jacked them up to $40/can too.

I just did a quick look and saw $17/per shipped… didn’t look for the best deal.

-Todd

 

[JordanTr]

@starrd, fellow BC guy!! 822,000kms for real?

 

[starrd]

Actually about 823,556 kms now. Just bought a replacement though - 289,000 km's with a body that is much better than my old one. I did too much driving in the winter months and the crap they put on the roads took its toll. If you ever have issues with your cluster, I can help you out.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Installed the clutched Gates alternator pulley. Very happy with it, I can already tell the tensioner roller isn't bouncing around nearly as much. Should have done this long ago, and it only took about 20 minutes.

 

[ToddA1]

Finally got the B4V back together. Dropped it off the Thursday before Labor Day and I had it back the next day. Realized I never painted the trim parts as I should have, weeks prior… poor planning.

Everything other than the outer scrapers got painted with Krylon Fusion satin black. The scrapers were cleaned and painted with SEM Landau Black. SEM tech told me Color Coat isn’t meant for rubber, but what do they know….? Since I had to prep and paint parts, the car got reassembled the following Friday.






The side view mirror was a pain to get back together and it also started popping fuses. I was pretty cautious when I took the mirror apart, so the wiring went back together properly. The mirrors worked perfectly prior to this, so the fault has to be in the wiring. Wasted a lot of time on this, with no fix.

I then moved to the switch, and opened it… parts went flying. Grabbed a spare and carefully took it apart. cleaned out the corrosion and reassembled. Still popping fuses. I got frustrated and walked away until the following Friday, that just passed.




Found 5 spare switches and one of them worked. Took the refurbed switch apart and one of the little contact barbells fell out of place. Put it back together and everything works as it should. So, I’m not really sure what caused the fuse popping. The wiring was correct from the start… the corrosion on the switch? Coincidental how the switch suddenly took a crap….

The working spare switch had the correct retaining tabs. These were swapped to my refurbed switch. Not really sure how they seem to go missing.… I’ve never had those tabs on the switch since I bought the car in August 2011.

-Todd

 

[thechoochlyman]

Today - pulled off the side of the road to celebrate 300k.



Over the last couple of weeks I've been changing out all my lights to LEDs. The headlights made the biggest differences, but the 194s, festoons, and 9006s made a huge difference too. I can actually see in the car at night now. lol



I'm also supposed to be heading to Atlanta to get a parts car this weekend, but the guy said he conveniently lost the key. I'm not too worried about the doors, but I WOULD like to unlock the ignition for towing purposes. I'm gonna have to go back and read the process for ignition switch removal again.

 

[Steve Addy]

Today - pulled off the side of the road to celebrate 300k.

Over the last couple of weeks I've been changing out all my lights to LEDs. The headlights made the biggest differences, but the 194s, festoons, and 9006s made a huge difference too. I can actually see in the car at night now. lol

I'm also supposed to be heading to Atlanta to get a parts car this weekend, but the guy said he conveniently lost the key. I'm not too worried about the doors, but I WOULD like to unlock the ignition for towing purposes. I'm gonna have to go back and read the process for ignition switch removal again.

Congrats on the miles, My engine has over 300k on it but the car (the 1990 wagon) only has 240k on the chassis so far.

I'd be bugging the seller about that key....you need that column unlocked for the trip and dismantling is a hassle. You should also take any VW keys you have with you on the trip just in case one might work...

Steve

 

[thechoochlyman]

Congrats on the miles, My engine has over 300k on it but the car (the 1990 wagon) only has 240k on the chassis so far.

I'd be bugging the seller about that key....you need that column unlocked for the trip and dismantling is a hassle. You should also take any VW keys you have with you on the trip just in case one might work...

Steve

Yeah, he's gonna keep looking for it until we show up on Saturday. At least the doors are already unlocked. My dolly does have its own steering if I choose to unlock it, so I'm not super concerned. I do have several different keys though, so I'll least try those out and maybe disconnect the steering column.

 

[Abacus]

I have a number of keys kicking around you can try. I also retrieved my door handle stash from Maine.

 

[thechoochlyman]

I have a number of keys kicking around you can try. I also retrieved my door handle stash from Maine.

Honestly, if I end up deciding to fix the car and not part it (all depends on what I see when I get there) then I'll probably just swap in the ignition and key set from the white roller I just got last month. Sadly next-day shipping for a box of keys to Kentucky would probably not be cost efficient, but I do really appreciate the offer! haha

 

[jdulle]

I replaced the passenger side rear strut on the silver 97 B4 with a Bilstein. It drives so much better now. Also replaced the suitcase and rear mufflers. It's nice and quiet now too. I have been putting lots of highway miles on so its been really nice to have it at its best.
Also I found the key to my wife's 96 B4 that was lost for several days, and we cleaned the sunroof drains to try and solve a leaky drivers front floor.
I love these cars still...

 

[jdulle]

A few weeks back I ended up doing a redneck repair to the heater and vent control cables. After my climate control unit broke all of the clips on the back for the cables, I put in a replacement from Abacus. This one lasted a little while until it was turned to fan speed 3, and then the fan control bit the dust. So I put the old one in and drilled a couple holes on the drivers side of the center console near the ignition switch. I just ran the cables out through there and can pull and push them to operate. The heater control one was a little tight and I had to use a small hose clamp to keep it held out. Works fine now. I suppose I would make you all cringe if I posted pictures.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Got my Passat back from Kraftwerke on Friday with a new power steering pump. Steering had been unusually heavy. Chris also lubricated the u-joints in the steering column in case they were binding. Drove it about 150 miles yesterday, feels much better.

 

[thechoochlyman]

A few weeks back I ended up doing a redneck repair to the heater and vent control cables. After my climate control unit broke all of the clips on the back for the cables, I put in a replacement from Abacus. This one lasted a little while until it was turned to fan speed 3, and then the fan control bit the dust. So I put the old one in and drilled a couple holes on the drivers side of the center console near the ignition switch. I just ran the cables out through there and can pull and push them to operate. The heater control one was a little tight and I had to use a small hose clamp to keep it held out. Works fine now. I suppose I would make you all cringe if I posted pictures.

I had to do the same thing a while back, but later landed on a slightly more elegant solution.

 

[Steve Addy]

A few weeks back I ended up doing a redneck repair to the heater and vent control cables. After my climate control unit broke all of the clips on the back for the cables, I put in a replacement from Abacus. This one lasted a little while until it was turned to fan speed 3, and then the fan control bit the dust. So I put the old one in and drilled a couple holes on the drivers side of the center console near the ignition switch. I just ran the cables out through there and can pull and push them to operate. The heater control one was a little tight and I had to use a small hose clamp to keep it held out. Works fine now. I suppose I would make you all cringe if I posted pictures.

My control has always been sticky for the air direction flap, the temp dial works fine. A few years back something snapped somewhere and it stopped moving the flapper properly. I finally fixed it this year and it was the anchor point in the control had broken. The plastic is so fragile and the mountings are so weak. I think I have another control somewhere but I was able to 'fix' it with a combination of zip ties and hot glue. Not my proudest moment but at least it is working.

And honestly it was my fault, I always knew that the directional control cable was sluggish, so I typically move that knob very slowly, but that day for some reason I just moved it without thinking and bang I was done.

Steve

 

[Phi1osopher]

Installed the clutched Gates alternator pulley. Very happy with it, I can already tell the tensioner roller isn't bouncing around nearly as much. Should have done this long ago, and it only took about 20 minutes.

Can you share a link to the pully you bought? I need to do this on mine too!

 

[Phi1osopher]

YAY!! finally knocked out the timing Belt, drive belts, front engine seals, harmonic balancer, water pump, camshaft, and lifters! An afternoon job, and I am so glad I finally did it.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Can you share a link to the pully you bought? I need to do this on mine too!

Sure thing!

For Volkswagen Jetta 1997-2002 Gates 37010P Alternator Decoupler Pulley 72053497083 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for For Volkswagen Jetta 1997-2002 Gates 37010P Alternator Decoupler Pulley at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[thechoochlyman]

YAY!! finally knocked out the timing Belt, drive belts, front engine seals, harmonic balancer, water pump, camshaft, and lifters! An afternoon job, and I am so glad I finally did it.

Just out of curiosity, why did you change the cam and lifters? I just got back from a trip and now have a tapping noise, seems to be in the upper head. As far as I can tell the cam and lifters are all undamaged. They all spin freely and check with tight clearance.

 

[Phi1osopher]

Just out of curiosity, why did you change the cam and lifters?

Because I had a tapping sound, and I suspected the cam might need to be replaced too. There also was excessive smoke that couldn't be tuned away. While shopping for tappets I found a great deal for cam + tappets for about $150 and decided to just give it a shot. Turns out the cam loves were measurably worn, and I made a good educated guess.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Because I had a tapping sound, and I suspected the cam might need to be replaced too. While shopping for tappets I found a great deal for cam + tappets for about $150 and decided to just give it a shot. Turns out the cam loves were measurably worn, and I made a good educated guess.

Very nice. That might just be my problem as well, I should measure the lobes and see what I get. What's spec supposed to be?

Did it sound anything like this?

 

[Phi1osopher]

Yes. Mine sounded very much like that.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Yes. Mine sounded very much like that.

Well good, you give me hope that my problem lies there! I'm going to just replace the cam and lifters first and see if it improves.

 

[starrd]

Well I learned something today regarding my ABS brakes. I just purchased a new to me 1996 Passat that was showing the brake warning light and the ABS warning light. I checked the obvious sensors for the brake warning light on, to no avail. I scanned the ABS controller and found both the front left and right rear sensors were bad. I verified that they were open with my ohm meter. Today I replaced the right rear sensor and reset the codes. The right rear is now reading wheel speed so that is good. The funny thing is, now with only one sensor left to replace, the brake light is now out and working when I pull the hand brake. I guess when 2 ABS sensors are bad, the brake warning light is also illuminated.