The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[ToddA1]

A very generous offer! Some the places I spoke with mentioned they’re expecting to see the kits in a couple weeks. I should be able to hold out…. let’s see what happens. Maybe I will end up reaching out to you. Thanks!

Figured I better do something with that rear right, so I got into it after work. I’m thinking that piston was at maximum extension. Piston didn’t want to move and I ended up spraying silicone lube under the boot and exercising the piston back and forth, working the lube into the seal. As soon as that happened, it went in effortlessly.

Pads still had something on them, but barely. The rotors are garbage, but they spun nicely.



Carriers on this 96 wagon were like the odd one I found in the shed. Maybe this is 96/ early 97 carrier?

The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

One has to wonder why we would go through all this. Not criticizing. I’ve been there to be sure. Perhaps harder to explain to a non-enthusiast o_O Well in this case the car was local to me and cheap, and it seemed like the problems were relatively minor, so it was worth the effort, even if in...

forums.tdiclub.com

Apparently, the parking brake on this side only worked if you really cranked on the hand lever, which was a good thing. I noticed the cable lever was frozen in the engaged position, but the wheel still spun easily. Popped the lever off and saw more rust than expected. I’ve never seen it packed so tightly behind that seal. Took a while, but with picks and eye glass screwdrivers, I kept digging out rust. More silicone lube and the lever works perfectly. Installed good, used pads. This should last a few months.

I honestly don’t remember doing anything to the rear brakes.…

Sad to say, but I probably didn’t. Parts were ordered, so it’ll get corrected.

-Todd

 

[quantum_tdi]

Doing some quick cleanup of interior, soldering rear door wires, installing 3-way coolant hose, trunk lock, reinstalling floor insulation and carpet, checking over mechanicals and sorting all extra parts... because I just sold the wagon.

Oh and I was just reminded that every time you drive one that has been sitting you get a surprise. Installing a new rear wheel bearing *sigh*

New owner may not be interested in extra parts so I'll put together a spreadsheet and publish what I have after it is signed over. Depending on my time and garage space, I might be back in the future, but likely it will be with a newer model. For now I'll be sticking with the Merc R320 CDI and my wife's "f- you and your old diesels" Scion xD

 

[Phi1osopher]

My 1996 Passat's serpentine belt tensioner pulley came apart. I replaced the pulley with an aftermarket one when I replaced/repaired the tensioner assembly about 6 months ago. It appears the sealed bearing was not properly lubricated, got hot, and melted the pulley at the bearing-to-pulley mating surface. The pully came off the bearing and dislodged the belt.

It was a bit tight replacing the pulley without removing the tensioner assembly, but it was 100% doable. Took about 45 minutes and the pulley was readily available.

 

[ToddA1]

What’s the chance that you kept the previous idler? If it was OE, you could stuff the spacer and hub into an all metal Ford replacement.

Bosch Alternator Rebuild Info

This is a thread for the culmination of info to rebuild the Bosch 123-505 alternator in the B4 Passat that is rated for 120 amps. If any other TDI alternators are wanted to be placed. There is a lot of scattered information around online and not every place you hunt has all of the details. It's...

forums.tdiclub.com

Hopefully the next time is never, but if you pull the airbox, it’s a 15-20 minute swap including getting the airbox back in.

-Todd

 

[turbodieseldyke]

What’s the chance that you kept the previous idler? If it was OE, you could stuff the spacer and hub into an all metal Ford replacement.

Bosch Alternator Rebuild Info

This is a thread for the culmination of info to rebuild the Bosch 123-505 alternator in the B4 Passat that is rated for 120 amps. If any other TDI alternators are wanted to be placed. There is a lot of scattered information around online and not every place you hunt has all of the details. It's...

forums.tdiclub.com

I believe the pulley talk starts a few posts down from the top: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/bosch-alternator-rebuild-info.430807/post-4748044

 

[ToddA1]

The info in that thread was a little confusing. To make it easy, just order Dayco 89007, but you need to have the OE idler with the 19mm back nut for this to work.

-Todd

 

[TDeanI]

Got my '97 B4 Wagon back on the road this last weekend after sitting 5 years on the side of my house. With the price of premium now about $4.70/gallon, it makes more sense to drive the passat now even though diesel is over $5/gallon. My commute is 25 miles each way and my crown vic only gets about 18 mpg.

The passat fired right up and was none the worst for wear, except a moldy interior which cleaned up nice. I had put Diesel additive in it the last time I filled it and I still had 12 gallons in it. With the price of local diesel now $5.30 gal and up, I decided to run what I had in the tank but top it off with 12 gallons of fresh diesel. I will run it down the tank to 2 gallons or so, then suck out what's left or drain the tank, then change the fuel filter.

I did put two brand new tires on the front, new led headlight bulbs, polished the plastic head light lenses. It still drives good and straight. Yesterday it turned over the 300k mark on the way to work. Now got to figure out why the cruise control is not working....

 

[quantum_tdi]

1. Repaired locking, replaced driver's door handle with one of the three extra I've collected over the years.
2. Reinstalled rear leather seats after cleaning... BUT ran into a stupid, self-inflicted problem.
3. Currently licking my wounds from the embarrassment of #2 and reinstalling insulation foam & carpets after full clean & enzyme treatment for old, musty smell from sitting.

Argh, does anyone have a spare rear seat back or the bracket with pin that screws onto the center facing side of the larger seat back (60%, passenger side)? I recycled a bad cloth one and accidentally left my bracket on! **Sad trombone**

 

[Abacus]

There one in the local junkyard but I won’t be back there for a week or so.

 

[ToddA1]

75° today and with the sun beating down on me it’s a tad bit uncomfortable. Aftermarket ac compressor stopped achieving high pressure and was barely cooling. Time to swap the compressor, but I remembered the lower alt bolt snapped a couple years ago. I figured I’d mess with it when I needed to mess with it. Tonight was as good a time as ever…

Disconnected the upper alt bolt and it didn’t want to drop much. Unbolted the compressor and dropped it as low as I could without pulling the front clip.

A few attempts at trying to get the lower alt bushing to pop out, but that was a waste of time.

Next attempt involves a 24” pry bar and some old fashioned brute force. Worked just fine!

You can see a bit of AL still clinging to the bolt remnant.



The small chunk pulled from the alt/compressor bracket. It’ll be fine.



I guess the bolt stretched and snapped. I don’t recall seeing any odd distortion, but that happened a couple years back.



I may have accidentally loosened that compressor fill bolt, and may have heard some hissing…. If it’s not hissing in the morning, I guess it fixed itself…

-Todd

 

[ToddA1]

Figured I’d put the car back together, so it could be driven, if needed. Grabbed a spare alt from the shed (no history), swapped the clutched pulley and installed it. Wasn’t charging, so I yanked it back out, swapped the voltage regulator from the alt with the broken ear, and reinstalled it. It’s charging, but I thought I smelled something odd… decided to leave it running and I’d watch it, as I was cleaning up.

A few minutes later….



Something tells me that’s not normal. Turn the car off, and start cooling it down with the air gun. A few minutes later, it’s smoking again, so I disconnect the battery, and start pulling it again. That sucker is hot! Pulled the rear cover and pulley, to avoid any damage.



I’m going to take this one apart and use the case to repair the one that was original to the car. It‘s worked fine since 2011. I’ll replace the bearings and the voltage regulator, since the brushes were tiny. Maybe I’ll do the slip rings, now that I’ve got a core to practice on…

I may as well replace the water pump and thermosta since they’re around a decade old. I’ll pull the tensioner arm, clean it up and regrease it. AC compressor, TXV and drier are on the list. Still waiting on the rear caliper rebuild kits to show availability, prior to installing the new rear brake parts.

Work I don’t want to do is piling up.…

-Todd

 

[TDIDaveNH]

Todd, I gotta ask..why is the valve cover cupped washer upside down?

 

[ToddA1]

Todd, I gotta ask..why is the valve cover cupped washer upside down?

That‘s actually an additional washer. I add them on all three studs to add clamping force to prevent leaks. I probably had those handy, rather than looking for standard washers. They’d just need to fit over the hex part of the stud. Stupid design…

Anywhoooo, I figured I’d be lazy and swap the rear case, from Smokey to the original. Bearings seem ok so it’d buy me some time. Ran into a slight problem…





Smokey, didn‘t have one of the case screws obstructed by the exciter plug. I didn’t think too much of it, until I started assembly. Not sure if I ever encountered this before on a 120A alt. The last three digits of the case part number are different than the original... not 100% sure where this alt came from.

My options at this point are to drill holes in the rear case to clock the case properly for the stator leads, order parts and swap the original alt guts into Smokey’s case, or try another alt I have in the shed. I think I’ll go with plan C, for now.

-Todd

 

[ToddA1]

Plan C didn’t work out. The alt was very dusty, as if it was outside on a dirt road, lol. Wire brushed the case clean and blew it off (and what could get inside) with the air line. Installed and I saw it charging for a few secs, then it stopped. The alt was getting warm (170°] within only a few minutes, so I shut it down. Nothing like the other one, where I smelled something fairly quickly… this one didn’t smell at all.

Started BIG BLüE, which got the 90A alt from Rotbox and it stayed cool to the touch. Let the B4 cool down and decided to disconnect power and the exciter plug from the alt, disabling the guts. The alt remained cool and I never saw the tensioner arm remain so still. Did some quick research and both alts may have coils which are shorting or the field rectifiers are going bad, causing excessive current draw/heat. Based on the smoke coming out of the case, I’d say the shorting.

Tested 2 voltage regulators and both are flakey. One is definitely from Smokey and it tests the same as the other, which may be from my original. Voltage starts ramping down around 14.5V, but never totally turns off. Seems like around 5V is still trickling through.

At this point, I’m on the fence about a Bosch rebuild for about $225 or a store brand, $150-175. I’ve recently opened a fresh Bosch rebuilt starter and wasn’t too impressed. I figure if I buy parts I’ll be in about $75-$110, and I need to do the work.

-Todd

 

[ToddA1]

Did some more reading and I think it’s definitely the rectifier. Diodes went bad and allowed current backflow, causing the smoke to be let out of the stator. OG is to the left and Smokey’s stator is to the right. Copper windings are visibly dark and the epoxy insulation started burning off.



Smokey’s slip rings are meatier than OG’s, and resistance tests check out.




I’m thinking mix and match parts to get a working alt, then realized I can’t use OG’s stator in Smokey’s case, due to the odd clocking. This means I need to swap these parts into Dusty, then reassemble Smokey for the core. This is getting frustrating, so I ordered a Carquest alt for about $150 to my door, after discount code and reward points. I’ll get to parts swapping later.

Rotbox is such a giver…. we borrowed the rear pump housing without snapping any bolts. I was looking air a new Graf pump, but remembered I used it on the GTI. Since I need to order more parts, I ordered new pump hoses. I’ll be pulling my replica Frostheater, that I never use. If I get lucky, I’ll have the parts this weekend.



New alt is waiting on the doorstep, by the time I get home from work. I’ve got a 120 mile drive on Friday, so I may as well install it. But first, we need to open the rear cover and take a looksee… Im curious what their definition of “remanufactured” is.





Regulator and slip rings are definitely new. Rectifier looks used… whoever rebuilt this thing didn’t want to bend the rectifier ears to allow the rear cover to completely clip on. I’m not going to desolder the stator leads to pull the case apart, but obviously the stator and rotor were redipped.

All new hardware throughout and aclutched pulley, made in Brazil. The pulley OD is about 7mm larger than my INA. The case has the odd clocking that I’ve never seen until, Smokey. It seems ok…



I let it run while I was cleaning up, occasionally feeling the case temperature... I’m a bit paranoid now. After about 15 minutes, it’s still cool and I noticed my tensioner arm is dead still. I guess my INA is on the way out.

-Todd

 

[Abacus]

If you need a spare, there was one in the local junkyard on a TDI B4.

 

[ToddA1]

I appreciate the offer. If it was from a running car I’d consider it, but with my luck on the 2 unknowns I’d better pass. I did order bearings for reassembly of the spare and I’ll swap the OG rotor into Smokey’s case, for the core. Now that I’m in a holding pattern waiting for parts, I’ll get the core ready and out of the garage.

If I’d stop being lazy and learned to use the tig, I’d reweld the broken ear back onto OG’s case... I’d never have gone through all of this. I need to find a flat rate job where all I do is B4 alt and bearing swaps... getting too fast with this task.

-Todd

 

[ToddA1]

While the coolant is draining, pull the tensioner arm. My experience is the end is a press fit into the tensioner and it never just pulls out. Ease it out with a nut and bolt. After cleaning with gas, it rotates easily... the old grease was sticky.




Parts order came in.



Cleaned all of the hardware, chased the pump and block holes and started reassembly. The goofy t-bolt got glued to the housing… it won’t be pushing in and hiding.




The Rein hose needed to be modded. Reclock one hose and shorten by about 1.375”. I love having to mod new parts. The hose that came off was OE and not in terrible shape. I probably should have reused it. The Meyle hose was a perfect fit.





Flushed and back flushed the system. My knockoff Frost Heater got pulled. Worked perfectly, but I haven’t used it in years. I’ll probably post it FS. Frost heater used a 750W(?) heater… I used a 1500W… the 1500W is NLA.




I got as far as refilling the system with evil green. I forgot to order new seals for the tensioner arm, so we’re in a holding pattern again…

-Todd

 

[quantum_tdi]

There one in the local junkyard but I won’t be back there for a week or so.

Thanks! I got one from a yard close by. AND the rear seat bracket I stupidly sent away with a bad cloth seat

 

[ToddA1]

Dealership order for the seals… back on track the next day. Lubed up the arm/bore and bolted it back onto the engine.

Drained the old compressor to get an idea of how much oil to add to the replacement. The replacement is a used 4 Seasons rebuild, but was told it worked perfectly. Tested the coil/clutch and it’s fine, but the shaft nut just spins. Either the nut or the shaft has washed out threads. The assembly is pressed on, so I’m not going to worry about it. It was gifted to me for the cost of shipping, so I guess it’s worth a shot.





Finally installed the Dayco 89007 that’s been sitting in the garage for months. The outer bushing stands proud by about 3/32”. If I ground it flush, it’d probably be centered, but the belt tracks on the pulley 100%, so I’m not going to worry about it. I am wondering if I should go with a longer serpentine belt, though. The OD of the alt and tensioner pulleys are both slightly larger than stock. The tensioner spring is definitely wound tighter than it was.…






Did a quick vacuum and let it rest for about an hour to ensure the system was tight. I was going to install the other AC parts, but I’ll wait for it to get warmer. German made dryer and Italian TXV.… I think that’s the last of my good parts. The high side service port is being replaced with a schrader.



While looking for parts for my truck, I found an alt that tests good. I also found OE water pump hoses, which were in great shape… oh well….

-Todd

 

[ToddA1]

82° yesterday, so I got back at it. Replaced the high side poppet with a schrader valve, the and the TXV. One of the long TXV screws went awol. Searched for about 20 minutes and gave up. I’m thinking it fell down the hole in the frame horn where the fuel lines go through. I had a spare (Rotbox?) so no big deal….




Last few TXVs have been TGKE. I was told they’re OE. I’m wondering what the next order will bring….

Before I started the drier replacement, I connected the gauge set and vacuum pump, to start vacuum asap.

15 minute vacuum and let it sit for 30 minutes. It held, so I vacuumed again for 1.25 hours and let it sit overnight. About 10 hours later it’s still holding.



I needed to drive the car to work today, so I’ll finish Friday. I wasted a few hours in this cheat sheet weeks ago… needs to be fine tuned. I actually found it pretty useful to quickly grab what was needed. The black o-ring under service ports is probably for the compressor fill plug.




FWIW, the HF hbnr kit has 4 of the needed sizes.

-Todd

 

[thechoochlyman]

Went by my exhaust shop about a week ago and had them install a Flowmaster FlowFX muffler right in the tunnel. We're going to Florida next month and I wanted to quieten things down a bit before we spend 13 hours in the car. Kinda wish I'd done it earlier, it's much quieter inside now as compared to a straight pipe. I do miss that turbo whistle I could hear before, but the drone was pretty killer at times.

 

[Phi1osopher]

What’s the chance that you kept the previous idler? If it was OE, you could stuff the spacer and hub into an all metal Ford replacement.

Bosch Alternator Rebuild Info

This is a thread for the culmination of info to rebuild the Bosch 123-505 alternator in the B4 Passat that is rated for 120 amps. If any other TDI alternators are wanted to be placed. There is a lot of scattered information around online and not every place you hunt has all of the details. It's...

forums.tdiclub.com

Hopefully the next time is never, but if you pull the airbox, it’s a 15-20 minute swap including getting the airbox back in.

-Todd

I did keep it, but the bearings went bad, which is why it initially failed. I like the idea and might try something like that if it fails again.

Also, Todd, that AC o-ring chart is Killer! I hope I can find it again when I need it... I actually love doing AC work, but hate doing it twice!

 

[thechoochlyman]

While the coolant is draining, pull the tensioner arm. My experience is the end is a press fit into the tensioner and it never just pulls out. Ease it out with a nut and bolt. After cleaning with gas, it rotates easily... the old grease was sticky.

Not sure why you removed the whole bracket, but I usually get my arm out easily enough to unscrewing the small bolt in the end, leaving about 4-5 threads, and tapping it on the end.

 

[ToddA1]

Not sure why you removed the whole bracket, but I usually get my arm out easily enough to unscrewing the small bolt in the end, leaving about 4-5 threads, and tapping it on the end.

Read the first sentence. I also changed the water pump, pulled the tank heater, replaced hoses, etc. Pics showed all of that.

Yeah, I hammer modded that arm bolt once and damaged the tensioner since the arm was stuck... never again. I probably got a bit overzealous. On the bench, I can clean out the arm’s bore very easily.

-Todd

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Got in the B4 to drive up to IDParts this afternoon and it had zero power. Cycled the key and it didn't get better, and the CEL came on. Checked it with VCDS, got a MAF open short to ground fault, intermitent. I wonder if it's a broken wire. I'm going to pull the MAF and airbox to see if I've had any 4 legged visitors. I drove the car two days ago and it ran great.

 

[thechoochlyman]

Installed a TDIDaveNH Heavy Hitch, what a beast! Now I'm ready to retire my V10 and do all my hauling with the Passat.



EDIT: This V10, I don't have a TDI V10. lol

 

[Abacus]

Those are the best hitches. Nothing but beef!

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Installed a TDIDaveNH Heavy Hitch, what a beast! Now I'm ready to retire my V10 and do all my hauling with the Passat.

View attachment 124040

Where did you end up getting one? They are pretty rare. I bought one new when I had my B4, then removed and sold it after it was totaled....

 

[thechoochlyman]

Where did you end up getting one? They are pretty rare. I bought one new when I had my B4, then removed and sold it after it was totaled....

The man himself had an extra and was willing to trade to a billet coolant flange for his newest ride. Couldn't pass that up!