The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Rotbox, you served me well, good friend. You’ll be able to peacefully rust away at the big scrapyard, in the sky...





Well, someone came out for the IP and tail lights, yesterday. It started flawlessly, in front of the buyer. It’s officially a part out, now.

Seems it’s always the top dp nut, against the engine that fights you. Irwin Bolt Out, saved me again. Need to disconnect the axles, drain the power steering fluid, then pull the right engine mount bolt... it’s ready to pull. I’ll have to grab the hoist, from a buddy’s house.

-Todd
 

jdulle

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Location
Ithaca, NY
TDI
96 B4, 97 B4
I finished one side of the rear brakes on the green 96 B4 sedan. I replaced the bearings, rotor, pads, and brake hose. I was happy I was the last person to do the calipers, the bolts came out with out too much difficulty. Now I have to do the brake cables, and same brake work on the other side. Then I can finally get it aligned. I tried to bring it in before, but they didn't like the looseness of the bearings...and the brakes needed to be done...
last week I replaced the outer bushings on the sway bar of the silver sedan.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Not B4 but will keep the thread moving...lol

Swapped the ECU in the Mk3, the original 97 ED ECU had started to have the dreaded 00750 and 65535 faults. While this is not a firm confirmation that the ECU is bad, these two codes have shown up for others who've reported that their ECU's appeared to be bad or going bad. One reason to swap to the JB ECU that came on 98/9 Mk3 cars and same reason I've acquired a couple spare JB's over the years.

And it got waxed too....needed it.

Steve
 
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ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
I took apart the right rear brake, that I just fixed...

Prior to, the car seemed to roll fine, but I was fixing a caliper issue... I reused the bearings and races, because I didn’t have attic stock, as I thought. Well, a couple weeks ago, I felt something funny as I was rolling to a stop. Almost a slight bumping as if the bearing was going bad. The car has been parked, since.

Installed new bearings on the right side. Seems better now, but the car still doesn’t roll as easily as it did, prior to the caliper issue. I may need to back off the stub axle nut, on the left side. Left side did get new bearings.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
I found my dragging issue.... left front. I had a difficult time spinning the wheel, by hand. I couldn’t get the piston out with shop air. I ended up reinstalling it and pumping it out. Until it moved, it felt like I was applying the brakes, then the pedal suddenly sank.






I’m thinking all that garbage inside is solidified grease, from assembly. Cleaned it out with gas, some paper towel and a flathead screwdriver.




I recalled something like this happening not too long ago, on this car. Found a right front, that I marked “bad”. Blew the piston out and it looked pretty much the same. Rotbox had its front suspension pulled apart and the plan was to just bolt on a caliper. I remember the PO telling me he swapped everything in the front brakes. Apparently, the calipers are slightly different. Rotbox was happy to donate a piston.




Deglazed the pads with some 100 grit on .25” plate glass. That’s art....




Not sure where I got these TRW seal kits, but one dust boot looked funny and I couldn’t get it to seat. Slightly too large. The piston seal went in perfectly, but I struggled getting the piston in. Grabbed another kit and everything worked perfectly... first kit went in the trash.

So, I’m hypothesizing the boots aren’t a perfect seal, letting in moisture. The rust was only on the lower parts of the pistons. After I installed the piston, I pushed it out about .75”, and lifted the boot. I slathered the exposed portion of the piston with silicone grease and pushed the piston back in. Can’t do all of this and ignore the carriers. Slide pins and bores got cleaned, regreased and new boots installed.

Did a quick gravity bleed and road tested the car... it was an immediate difference in feel. I can easily roll the car, by hand. Checked the left rear and it spins effortlessly. Maybe I wasted my time, last night...

Filled the tank and calculated mileage... last tank was 3mpg lower, than what I’m used to seeing...

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
That's odd, I was sure they used the same calipers, but apparently they don't if you found a difference. Perhaps with the caliper carrier from the Mk3 it would work? After all they share the same rotor and I'm almost sure the bearing carrier is the same as well.

When I overhauled the B3 wagon I pitched all the original brakes in front and rear because they were so bad. I just used parts I had accumulated from various Mk3 cars. I don't recall whether I kept the caliper carriers in front or not, it was all pretty nasty.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Take a look at the Jetta caliper, on the left. It’s missing the tapped hole and line up holes on the machined area. B4 uses a S shaped hard line that attaches to the hose. It’s stabilized with a bracket that utilizes that machined area.

The rotor, carrier and knuckle are the same. The carrier was crazy rusted and I wasn’t going through the hassle of cleaning it up.

I may soak one of those pistons in Evaporust, to see how pitted it is. Otherwise, I have cores or more weight for the scrapyard.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Take a look at the Jetta caliper, on the left. It’s missing the tapped hole and line up holes on the machined area. B4 uses a S shaped hard line that attaches to the hose. It’s stabilized with a bracket that utilizes that machined area.
Yes, it does use those small S shaped hard lines, but oddly enough my spare calipers had the tapped holes, and I know they didn't come from a B3/4. I'll have to look at some of my other spares and see if that's consistent.

The rotor, carrier and knuckle are the same. The carrier was crazy rusted and I wasn’t going through the hassle of cleaning it up.

I may soak one of those pistons in Evaporust, to see how pitted it is. Otherwise, I have cores or more weight for the scrapyard.

-Todd
Sometimes it's not worth the effort if it's rusted that bad. I just tossed most of from the B3V it in the scrap heap it was bad, especially the rear.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
I’m sure I’ve seen a combo of both calipers, but never thought about that machined area, until last night. It’s definitely a Girling caliper.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
The Dorman bolt seems to work fine. Some quick research said it was 5/16-24. Not sure why a regular bolt wouldn’t work, but the Dorman bolt had a tapered end, and oddly enough, the bolt is hollow. Just screw it in, until it stops.… I added Nylog to the threads. A quick 2 minute fix in the Advance parking lot. I’d probably opt for the bolt, unless your system is empty.

Dorman 800-955 is the winner.… I still haven’t found a low side schrader, but it’s usually only the high side that has an issue.

if your poppet valve on the high side is good, you may want to think about your gauge set connectors. I had to get a different style that snaps on, then you turn a knob, to open and close the service ports. I’m thinking this may be better for the poppet, since it’s not slamming shut, potentiality causing leakage. I used to wait for the system to reach static, prior to disconnecting the high side. Now I can slowly and gently close the valve(s).

I tempted fate and used these new connectors on a ‘03 Jetta. I successfully topped the system off, drama free. Just a FYI...

-Todd
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Picked up my B4 at my guru's yesterday, after too long a stay. The replacement alternator failed almost immediately, and I dropped it off for him to swap that out, possibly flush coolant (which he didn't do after remembering we replaced the radiator not too long ago), and maybe replace the fuel sender. The gauge needle would fall sometimes when turning when the tank was near full. However, we wondered if it was caused by the low voltage output of the alternator.

At any rate, he got the work done and moved the car outside for me to pick up, and the brake pedal went to the floor. Now, several weeks and all new brake lines later, it's back. And the fuel gauge seems fine. So today I gave it a badly needed wash.


Drove it into Boston today to meet a friend for coffee. It drives great. In addition the the brake lines and alternator(s), it's got a new driver's side axle, new rear calipers, and new brakes all around. And a new turbo inlet pipe to (I hope) stop an oil leak, along with a valve cover gasket, grommets, and CCV pipe. Maybe we've got that leak finally chased down.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
So, maybe a month ago, maybe a bit more, the B4 started complaining via limp mode. It didn’t happen every time it was driven and didn’t always throw a code. My commute is an arduous 7 miles, one way, so I easily ignored the issue. When it did happen, key off/on was the fix. I like easy fixes.…. To be perfectly honest, I’ve been ignoring both B4s and the new Jetta, showing the Rabbit GTI the love.

Yesterday, I decided to get off the couch, and investigate the limp mode. Silicone vacuum tube in the ECU is good, but replaced it, since I was there. That led to vacuuming and blowing out rain tray debris. Pulled the n75 and bench tested it. Blowing though the respective ports and applying 12v to the solenoid, verified it was good.

I went back to the car, and stared blowing though the silicone hoses to/from the n75. Red and black were clear, but not blue. I could blow shop air through, but not lung air. Pulled the blue hose, added some scrap silicone hose at the waste gate, then stabbed in some nylon door lock tubing from the recently deceased Rotbox. Rotbox lives on….!

At the n75, I used 6” of the blue hose that was pulled, to keep the color code correct. I chose the clean side, that was originally at the n75. Blew through it, or at least I tried to… lung power didn’t work. I split the hose and found a black, sticky oil booger. I could easily blow through the hose that was downstream, of this. I honestly thought the clog would be at the low point, at the wastegate.




I figured I found my issue, but got sidetracked when I saw an oily mess at the rear right mount. TIP bolts were loose, but never fell out. I pulled the TIP and the o-ring was pretty beat. Cleaned up the best I could and reinstalled it and the TIP. Ordered some 224 Buna o-rings, which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. This means I’ll be getting greasy again, tomorrow.

Road tested the car. Did about 5 third gear pulls from 1.5k to 3.5k rpm. No issues… problem solved.

Drove it to work today, and I was really getting on it, going back and forth to company buildings. I never drove this car this way…. and eventually went into a no CEL limp. Got home, scanned the car and saw 00575- control difference.

Put the car on ramps, disconnected the blue, from the n75 and slowly applied shop air to the hose. I wanted to watch the wastegate lever move. All that happened was the tubing blew off the nylon tubing. Repeated this a few times with the same results. I tried to get my hands to the lever, with pliers but that wasn’t happening.… driveshaft is in the way. Tried prybars and other tools, but no go. Time to pull the driveshaft, which I hate doing on these cars.

Driveshaft out, pliers in, and popped the lever free. Exercised the lever with shop air about 50x, occasionally hosing it down with Kroil and silicone lube. Got it moving effortlessly. Cleaned up and road tested. This time I did about 5 third gear pulls starting at 1.5k to redline. I’ve never redlined this car, since I bought it. I guess me driving like grandpa, helped that lever soot up, although it took over 7 years to happen.

Long story short, limp mode definitely seems fixed.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
So, maybe a month ago, maybe a bit more, the B4 started complaining via limp mode. It didn’t happen every time it was driven and didn’t always throw a code. My commute is an arduous 7 miles, one way, so I easily ignored the issue. When it did happen, key off/on was the fix. I like easy fixes.…. To be perfectly honest, I’ve been ignoring both B4s and the new Jetta, showing the Rabbit GTI the love.

Yesterday, I decided to get off the couch, and investigate the limp mode. Silicone vacuum tube in the ECU is good, but replaced it, since I was there. That led to vacuuming and blowing out rain tray debris. Pulled the n75 and bench tested it. Blowing though the respective ports and applying 12v to the solenoid, verified it was good.

I went back to the car, and stared blowing though the silicone hoses to/from the n75. Red and black were clear, but not blue. I could blow shop air through, but not lung air. Pulled the blue hose, added some scrap silicone hose at the waste gate, then stabbed in some nylon door lock tubing from the recently deceased Rotbox. Rotbox lives on….!

At the n75, I used 6” of the blue hose that was pulled, to keep the color code correct. I chose the clean side, that was originally at the n75. Blew through it, or at least I tried to… lung power didn’t work. I split the hose and found a black, sticky oil booger. I could easily blow through the hose that was downstream, of this. I honestly thought the clog would be at the low point, at the wastegate.




I figured I found my issue, but got sidetracked when I saw an oily mess at the rear right mount. TIP bolts were loose, but never fell out. I pulled the TIP and the o-ring was pretty beat. Cleaned up the best I could and reinstalled it and the TIP. Ordered some 224 Buna o-rings, which are scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. This means I’ll be getting greasy again, tomorrow.

Road tested the car. Did about 5 third gear pulls from 1.5k to 3.5k rpm. No issues… problem solved.

Drove it to work today, and I was really getting on it, going back and forth to company buildings. I never drove this car this way…. and eventually went into a no CEL limp. Got home, scanned the car and saw 00575- control difference.

Put the car on ramps, disconnected the blue, from the n75 and slowly applied shop air to the hose. I wanted to watch the wastegate lever move. All that happened was the tubing blew off the nylon tubing. Repeated this a few times with the same results. I tried to get my hands to the lever, with pliers but that wasn’t happening.… driveshaft is in the way. Tried prybars and other tools, but no go. Time to pull the driveshaft, which I hate doing on these cars.

Driveshaft out, pliers in, and popped the lever free. Exercised the lever with shop air about 50x, occasionally hosing it down with Kroil and silicone lube. Got it moving effortlessly. Cleaned up and road tested. This time I did about 5 third gear pulls starting at 1.5k to redline. I’ve never redlined this car, since I bought it. I guess me driving like grandpa, helped that lever soot up, although it took over 7 years to happen.

Long story short, limp mode definitely seems fixed.

-Todd
I got a no CEL limp from the same thing, was using vac hose at the turbo...bad idea as it gets squishy after a while. I switched to 1/8" fuel line and have never had another problem. I too used the colored nylon vacuum lock system tubing to replace the rotting colored hose that was original. I think everything is nylon except for the final connections at N75 etc.

The nylon tubing seems to be a very good solution.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
O-rings were waiting on my doorstep, when I got home. Comparing it to the original in the tip, the original was definitely showing it’s age.




Since I had the TIP out, I decided to properly clean the rear mount. Last night‘s pathetic effort entailed, wiping it with a dirty rag. Tonight’s effort involved my favorite 93 octane degreaser and a 2” chip brush.




With the new o-ring, I had to fight to get the TIP on. Even without the bolts, it’s a great compression fit. Never had a TIP that felt like this. Wagen will be next.

So, I’m staring at the hoses to the turbo, and thinking how they interact with the n75. Never really did this before, since I never really had an issue with limp mode. A few nights back, I found that booger in the blue hose, meaning it had to come from the red hose. I retested flow through the red hose and although I could get lung pressure through it, it wasn’t as easy as my modded nylon line. That also ended up getting replaced with Rotbox nylon.

Now, if crud is moving from red to blue, it’s going through the n75. I pulled the n75 and started blowing through it, again. Red nipple to blue was flowing, but not as easily as last night. I’m guessing me beating on the car, pushed crud into it. Hosed it out with brake clean and electronics cleaner and it was back to perfect.

At this point, I may as well get under the car and verify the wastegate lever is still moving freely, which it was.

Cut verified clean sections of the red and blue silicone and used it on both ends of the nylon hose, for color coding. Zip tied everything, just because. Also replaced the hose that goes to the firewall nipple, for the recirculate solenoid.

Popped the hose off the intercooler, to let it drain, as I was cleaning up. Been years since I’ve done this and only a few tablespoons came out. I didn’t want to pull the intercooler to drain it, so I was stuffing paper towels in, to blot up any oil. I felt something inside, and this came out. Who knows how long it’s been in there…




Finished cleaning up at 9PM, and road tested the car to the liquor store. They were closed, so I road tested it to, Taco Bell. I‘ll road test it to the liquor store, tomorrow night.

All of the above happened for an o-ring…

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Unsure. I was thinking maybe the slave cylinder or battery hold down. . I’m not sure if I ever had that intercooler off.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
So, my greasy paw prints were showing on the car, after the work, I’d done. Time to show it some more detailing love inside and out. Inside just needed a quick wipe down and vacuuming. Exterior got another treatment with the ceramic wax.










Geez, I’m a sucker for clean interiors…













A bulb needed to be replaced, behind the sub enclosure, so the trunk got cleaned out too. That bulb has been out, for close to 2 years… I’ve also been driving around with a spare suspension for my Rabbit, for about a year… that finally got removed.




Let’s see how long it stays this way.

-Todd
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Well, I guess it's time to update here since since we moved to another state and I'm once again driving the wagon.

Since the kids are out of the house, which was too large for us, we decided to downsize. Since I hated my job (only decent sized employer in the area) and she could transfer, we decided to buy a smaller house in another state. A few years ago we looked at North Carolina and visited the Asheville area (loved it) but decided the humidity in the summer would be killer. Our second choice was the Prescott Arizona area and we made a trip a few years ago. The weather and people were great so we decided this would be our landing site. Then we had to vacate 2 houses and move across the country. The issue I had was what to do with the B4 and the B4V.

The B4 had a TON of mods on it but the motor had a noticeable knock. It still ran OK but obviously needed attention to get back on the road. It'd been sitting for a few years under a tarp and I decided it should just go. I really hated the green anyway. I kept the wheels and tires, the PP520's, and the Koni struts, but the rest went with the car. It's a shame because there were TONS of great new parts on it but I didn't have time to pull them off. It sold for $800 and the guy buying it was going to put it on the road. He got the spare good engine with it as well.

The wagon was a different story, I loved driving that car, but with the fuel line having a hole in it, the timing belt needing changing, new brake calipers, and the rust work, I just didn't have the time. All our spare time was prepping 2 houses for sale, to include rebuilding a barn, painting, new floors, plumbing, and anything else you can think of, while we were still working full time jobs. We were wiped out with everything we had to do. So I contacted TDIDaveNH to see if he'd take on the project of getting it back on the road. He'd drive across the country several time and knew what the car would need, his work is impeccable, and I trust him completely. He reluctantly agreed to do it since he's busy enough and I had it towed to his house.





I had to go back home due to the sudden death of my dad (W386 on here) and decided to pick up the car and drive it back. I had planned on driving it back sometime this year when I had time but now needed it to coincide with his funeral.

In typical VW Fashion, it needed more work than was originally known. He replaced a rear caliper and noticed the rear brake hard lines were quite rusty, so he replaced them. Then in the process of bleeding the brakes, one of the front caliper bleeder screw wouldn't come out. He finally got it out but the threads wouldn't seal. A new caliper was ordered (the last one in the country) and it came in but was wrong. It would work so he put it on, but then couldn't get a hard pedal. A new master cylinder was ordered but it turns out the 1996 master for ABS VW's is different from the 1997, and it wouldn't work. He pulled the master off his own '97 GLX TDI and put it on my car so I could have it when I arrived. He did a lot of other work as well, like a new flex pipe because it separated, new fuel hoses because the old one had a hole in it, (it turns out the sedan and wagon fuel hoses are different, so he found another set of wagon ones), had tires mounted and balanced, oil change, and a host of other things. He even washed the engine bay. I was floored.

Here he is showing us the V10 TDI he picked up and has for a swap later on in something. What a monster.




From there I drove the car to K&B Automotive in Ellsworth, Maine to get the AC system fixed. I've known them for a long time and they're the only ones I trust to work on any of my cars. They started working on it and I offered to help, grabbing a wrench. They don't let just anyone work on their cars in their work area, but I've known them a long time and they trust me with a wrench. Since it was my car and I was willing to put in some wrench time, they moved on to other customer cars since they have a 3 week backlog due to being shorthanded (like everywhere). I had the front of the car off in short order, replaced the condenser, and we evacuated and charged the system. An AC system isn't critical in Maine and when the condenser developed a hole I never bothered to get it repaired since it wasn't used but one or two days a year. In Arizona having AC is a necessity. The pump wasn't putting out enough pressure so it needed replacing. They were ahead of me and had another pump ready, but it was the wrong one even though it was listed for my car.





They looked for a new pump and found a match to one that would work, but it was a remanufactured and he said he wouldn't recommend it because the remanned ones only last a year. I looked on ID Parts and they had one left, so I called and Peter answered. He asked how Arizona was and we chatted for a minute, and I told him of my dilemma. I ordered the pump and he said I'd have it the next day, with the Ideal shipping they offered, talk about service! I got to the shop early (they let me use the 'shop' truck for the night) and while we waited I changed the tranny fluid and gave the car a once-over. The new pump arrived late afternoon, we buttoned everything up and the AC was ice cold.




From there I visited my mom for awhile and looked over my dad's B4V, which will be available soon. I had just put the last set of Bilstein HD struts in the country on his B4V, with HD springs from the UK, and wanted them back. If the car was to be sold, I was keeping and could use the setup. It took me awhile but I swapped them over and put the Bilstein TC struts back on his car. Now the wagon was ready to travel.

(Continued)
 
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BamaB4S

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Location
AL
TDI
1996 Passat & 2006 Jetta
So, my greasy paw prints were showing on the car, after the work, I’d done. Time to show it some more detailing love inside and out. Inside just needed a quick wipe down and vacuuming. Exterior got another treatment with the ceramic wax.







Geez, I’m a sucker for clean interiors…









A bulb needed to be replaced, behind the sub enclosure, so the trunk got cleaned out too. That bulb has been out, for close to 2 years… I’ve also been driving around with a spare suspension for my Rabbit, for about a year… that finally got removed.




Let’s see how long it stays this way.

-Todd
Good job!
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
Hey Abacus - warms my heart that you are continuing on with the B4V! - pictures are not coming up... :-(
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Drove the sedan to work and heard a new exhaust rattle. Put the rear of the car on ramps and investigated. The hanger after the tunnel finally failed. I think I did this about 5 years ago, and the hook, was just a heavy piece of flat stock.

got a new clamp, supported the exhaust with a scissor jack and mocked up a much more substantial hanger, with a piece of Romex. The new hanger is a piece of the old failed clamp, which I rebent. Cleaned it up and welded it on.



I should have done this years ago. The exhaust sits higher, and more centered in the tunnel. Hosed it down with brake clean and gave it a couple coats of Rustoleum, to help preserve it.

Stupid VW design… the first hanger on the B4 is after the tunnel, leaving everything forward to hang off the turbo. The Jetta TDI got a support, at the beginning of the tunnel.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Stupid VW design… the first hanger on the B4 is after the tunnel, leaving everything forward to hang off the turbo. The Jetta TDI got a support, at the beginning of the tunnel.

-Todd
Yes...I have always wondered how they got away with that TBH, it makes little sense in my book. Why they didn't make a front mounting, like the Mk3, standard on the B4 is beyond me.

Completely bizarre, and I blame it for the deterioration of the flex joints on the B4, which seem to happen rarely on the MK3.

Steve
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Drove it out to Western MA to meet my son for coffee, about 350 miles round trip. Had about 475 miles on the tank when I left, 798 now, still not near the red. This car has gone through a lot of repairs (steering rack, axle, valve cover gasket, alternator, hard brake lines, injector nozzles), and I wanted to give it a fast run to clean out the carbon. I was reminded that when accelerating uphill above 75 MPH you can feel that even with RC2, it's not a rocket ship. The .71 5th gear probably doesn't help, But it did great, and, as expected, runs better now than when I left home.
 
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Mcgink

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2004
Location
South of Boston MA
TDI
I-Red,"The Passat formerly known as Harlequin" 97 B4, a non VW GTDI too
New fog lights that I bought years ago finally installed in I-Red. They look great with the E-Codes

 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Bought a new battery for the wagon. Battery was dated 2015, so I guess that’s not terrible. If it’d been driven on a more frequent basis, it’d definitely have lasted longer.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4, '97 Jetta
Heard some dragging in the B4’s front left wheel. It could only be heard when driving next to a building or Jersey wall, so it was easily ignored.

Been going on for about a week, so I took a quick peek, while I was at work. I immediately saw the issue, through the wheel spokes. Maybe I should do something about this…







That stupid anti vibrate shim ate about 3/32-1/8” into my rotor. Gave the rotor a reach around and determined it was in the thickest part of the rotor, which I estimated to be a minimum of .5” thick. Left the rotor alone, but pulled every shim off the remaining pads. The inner pad shims wouldn’t touch anything that rotated, but they came out regardless.

The other 3 were on there pretty well, but this wasn’t the first time I’ve had these work loose. It was the first time I ever had something like this happen…. I think these were Hawk pads.

This could have been like a final destination accident!

-Todd
 

bikeprof

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2005
Location
Pagosa Springs, Colorado(YEAH!)
TDI
1996 Passat B4 Variant white, 1996 Town & Country 3.8 LXI
Dang, after such a long time getting back here, been reading about B4's and especially the B4V's I still get fuzzies....

Since my B4 got a TERMINAL turbo disease about 5 years ago and has been inside storage(it's my baby, OK...? ), I've bought three vehicles:
2003 Volvo V40(totaled/front crash-female, died 06/21)
1995 GMC 3/4 single cab 350TBI/5 SPD LOOOng bed(11/20, still got)
2007 Mazda 6 3L-ATX wagon(07/21)

I like extra space in the rear to load stuff and realize that I could save lots driving the B4V but now there is few miles of freeway so city comfort has been enjoyable with the ATX of the Mazda :).

I keep thinking about getting the VARIANT back on the road, so THAT is why I posted here "cause I thought about the B4V...
(hopefully soon-ish getting a turbo in there)
 
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