The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
...While I had everything off, I installed a lower rad hose hook. This was missing since ownership, but I bought this one a couple years ago. Time to get it on.... I lost a lower rad hose, due to chafing.





Cleaned the coil and rad, since they were accessible. Rad came out nice, the coil not really noticeable. Guess this stuff isn’t for painted coils. Hold your breath when spraying...

Tomorrow night I may start reassembly and vacuum.
-Todd
I was lucky and found one of the lower rad clips a year ago, on a B4 Passat with ABA engine. They use the same clip and a very similar lower radiator hose that I bought as a 'just in case' spare.

Like you though I wrapped that area near the motor mount bracket with another section of split hose and a few zip ties just in case it got too close to something.

With that hose being NLA can't take any chances with it.

Steve
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
'97 Passat x2
2oz? The entire system calls for 4.5oz. That’s one of the reasons I always flush everything, other than the compressor. It’s hard to determine what’s still in the system.
That’s also an issue with topping a system off. Although I did it successfully for 5+ years, I was only adding refrigerant, not oil. I think the only time I added oil, was a few years back, when it was blended with the 6oz can of stop leak, I dumped in.
I never really thought about adding a specific amount of oil to each component. I understand the principle, but I’ve pulled a compressor apart, and although drained, there’s still a lot of oil left inside.
-Todd
I resealed a compressor a couple years back and IIRC I read somewhere that the compressor will retain an oil film which is right at 1 oz. of fluid. Can't remember where I read that. I just did a Sanden SD7V16 google search and started digging.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Bora Parts, aka Carcade German, has the silicone hoses in stock in black.
I think someone here said they’re a good fit, but they need to be longer. I have spare lower hoses, so I’ll use them until they rot out.

Anyway, I reinstalled the ac system. It ended up taking all afternoon; this was why I’ve been topping it off these past 5 years. Couldn’t find the txv hardware, so the Rotbox donated her hardware. As rusty as the car is, the hardware was perfect... amazing.

Did a quick 15 minute vacuum and let it sit for an hour. It leaked, but I had an idea the the low side service port was the culprit. Replaced the o-ring and vacuumed again, let it sit, and it held. Vacuumed for 2 hours then started the liquid charge.

The first can went in quick, under vacuum, the 2nd can took forever to get 5oz in. I was getting strange gauge readings and was thinking the compressor was weak. Then I realized I had the high side valve open.... oops.

Closed the valve and each can flowed in quickly. Dumped in 44oz and called it good. DA was 54° at idle on speed 4.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I resealed a compressor a couple years back and IIRC I read somewhere that the compressor will retain an oil film which is right at 1 oz. of fluid. Can't remember where I read that. I just did a Sanden SD7V16 google search and started digging.

If that’s true, I wonder if the recomended 4.5oz takes the residual film into account. I considered opening the compressor, but decided I didn’t want to add to the workload. 4 days draining on end, got a decent amount out of it.

I also considered pulling my tank heater, but decided to save that for another day. Access would have been perfect, with the hose off the car. I never use it... remote starter is easier.

Timing belt is next...

-Todd
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
My schedule and time have been in a crunch so over the past few months with my car's maintenance, I have not been able to maintenance our white B4. Front bearing on the OE alternator went bust. It was taken to a shop and the Bosch replacement was put in. Less than a month later, it's front bearing went bust. Thankfully I have an OE spare that I just swapped in.

Due to the warranty repair of the new one, a new tensioner bar, tensioner, grommets and bushings were put in. Out impact gun went missing so I cannot put the clutched pulley back on right now, but all is good.

The second new alternator was shipped straight from the factory from the east coast. Stay away from the Bosch AL0723X. It's been a few years since this was said, and if others are doing fine with this alternator, I'll redact the post. But if my memory is correct, it's a known problematic "new" part.

I have replacement bearings on hand and will get it pressed in when time permits.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Replaced another 3A5827515: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EW21KUK/
Glad I had a spare on hand and I purchased the spare back in September with this expectation. Took only about 45 minutes because I forgot how to release the trunk latch; screwdriver goes in the hole pointed to between 2 & 6 and lever it to the opposing clockface. If you’re bending the shaft, too much force is used. Depending on what size screwdriver head, you can also insert it straight through and lever towards ~10-11.
 

jdulle

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2017
Location
Ithaca, NY
TDI
96 B4, 97 B4
Last week I replaced the rear calipers rotors pads and bearings. Replaced crankcase vent puck. Replaced front strut mounts and bearings. It drives so much nicer now! And I have an e-brake. To do still: steering boots, alignment, and going after the tensioner pulley bounce/squeak when cold.
 

IndigoBlueWagon

TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Joined
Aug 16, 2004
Location
South of Boston
TDI
'97 Passat, '99.5 Golf, '02 Jetta Wagon, '15 GSW
Which alternator is the good one to buy as a replacement for the B4?
You have a couple of good options. One is a Bosch reman, which doesn't include a pulley. But you can add a clutched pulley, which I think is a good idea. Or you can get a new Valeo (also an OE supplier), which includes a solid pulley.

Or, of course, you can get a store brand alternator from one of the major auto parts chains. But you asked what was good. :D
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Ordered up some parts so I can get my Mk3 Jetta TDI out of the garage this year!

Got a couple Continental 48006 timing belt tensioners and some other new things to install. The list of repair work for her incudes a new heater core, not something I relish doing but it needs to be done. Will be installing the all metal version from Audi that I purchased a few years back.

Also been sitting on that second Euro Tuning 6th gear kit I ordered way back when, and that needs to be installed too, along with doing rear main seal, new clutch just for good measure and a bunch of other seals and gaskets.

Steve
 

jhax

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
96 Passat B4V, ALH engine out of a 2002 Jetta, some IE Rods and ASV Pistons. Nothing drivable yet though
^ Not a B4 doesn't count, haha. Sounds like a nice little overhaul though.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I just received an order to do the timing belt on the sedan. 20k miles and I’m approaching 5.5 years. Need to get it done before the heat comes in.

I got the old style tensioner.... didn’t even think about looking for the new style.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
I just received an order to do the timing belt on the sedan. 20k miles and I’m approaching 5.5 years. Need to get it done before the heat comes in.

I got the old style tensioner.... didn’t even think about looking for the new style.

-Todd
I'm doing mine because of age as well, the Mk3 has sat for a long time without running, the belt was probably due according to miles when it got parked but in terms of years it's been longer than five. I have resisted doing anything before a new belt, don't want any issues with that.

When you say 'old style tensioner' I'm not sure I follow what you mean? I would only reject a new Litens tensioner if the backing plate was black, otherwise I think they're perfectly fine to use. I don't believe that the 48008 tensioner is acceptable for the Mk3 cars although that document suggests it is, and while I've not compared the 48006 tensioner with the 48008 in person I can tell already that the spacer on the back is taller on the latter and I don't like that, the spacer on the 48006 is under 1mm.

I'm not sure why this document exists to be honest, I think it fails to account for a specific replacement already being in place to cover the failed early 'black back' tensioners identified as a problem. It doesn't talk at all about the Litens 979286 models (also referenced as part #48006). It only seems to address black back tensioners with VW part numbers and the replacement of those with tensioners designed for the Mk4 cars.

I will continue to buy Litens 979286 tensioners as long as they can be found, the two I purchased recently, repackaged as Continental Elite 48006 'accu-drive' tensioners are older but have bearings marked NTN Canada. This is consistent with others I've purchase, boxed as SKF, marked Canadian manufacture.

I am hoping that our specific tensioner type is not discontinued. I have noticed that recently the SKF ones sold online no longer have manufacturer information anywhere on the tensioner, which worries me since the lower quality products also have no manufacturer info on them either.

I'm hoping this 'generic' marking trend doesn't leave us in a position where we can't tell the good from the bad.

In case anyone is curious, the link for the pdf I mentioned is here, take it with a grain of salt as I have, although I believe that it originated from Litens for some reason.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
When I ordered the tensioner, it was a INA with a blue seal. I didn’t search the GY part number and figured it’d be the new style. It was a whopping $1 more than the SKF tensioner that I’m accustomed to ordering.

The bearing is made in Croatia and the tensioner in Canada. It has the silver back, although I’ve personally never saw one with the black back. I’m not sweating it... it’ll get installed.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
When I ordered the tensioner, it was a INA with a blue seal. I didn’t search the GY part number and figured it’d be the new style. It was a whopping $1 more than the SKF tensioner that I’m accustomed to ordering.

The bearing is made in Croatia and the tensioner in Canada. It has the silver back, although I’ve personally never saw one with the black back. I’m not sweating it... it’ll get installed.

-Todd
I've never seen a black backed tensioner either...ever. I have a suspicion that those might be found on the 1Z cars, maybe my original tensioner in the 97 Jetta tdi was black backed, who knows, it was Litens when I got it.

The GY numbering is the same as that used by Continental and probably others. The original GY / Conti tensioners for the 1Z/AHU were # 48006. The ALH tensioner was # 48008 and there is a difference I think but I don't have one of the ALH in front of me to compare, but I will soon.

As I mentioned before the bearing in the two Conti's i just got are NTN and made in Canada, with dark blue seals. The Litens number on the back is 979286, which is the number I've always referenced in the past.

As I said, it worries me that origin and manufacturer information is being eliminated from some of the better products, that's not something I like to see TBH. I do not want to someday open a generic box with a tensioner inside that says Üro Parts on it.

Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Unless there’s gross negligence, typically the parts are free, but you pay the labor.

-Todd
 

jhax

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Golden, CO
TDI
96 Passat B4V, ALH engine out of a 2002 Jetta, some IE Rods and ASV Pistons. Nothing drivable yet though
Timing belt changapalooza!





 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Finally got to the B4’s timing belt. I was 6 months overdue, time wise and decided to get it over with, before something bad occurred. Advanced the IP 1 tooth, as standard procedure and it fired right up.

I’ll check the timing graph, after Monday’s commute home.

Also tweaked the exterior driver handle. It’s been problematic for at least the past month and I’ve been dealing with it. It was getting worse, so I pulled the handle. I noticed the white bushing slid freely on the post, so I shimmed it out with a wire tie... lubed up the strike box lever and the handle works perfectly, again.

Still need to swap the rear pads, but that’ll ge done another day.

-Todd
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
'97 Passat x2
My B4 has not been on the road since late last year, it needs a heater core (plastic one only 4-5 yrs old) and the HG is severely blown. Just had a shop evacuate the freon from the system yesterday in preparation to do a major tear apart on both sides of the firewall. Best time to replace the steering rack, which is on the dance card too.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Also tweaked the exterior driver handle. It’s been problematic for at least the past month and I’ve been dealing with it. It was getting worse, so I pulled the handle. I noticed the white bushing slid freely on the post, so I shimmed it out with a wire tie... lubed up the strike box lever and the handle works perfectly, again.

Well, that didn’t last long. Started acting flaky again, so I bent the lever the white bushing contacted. Worked fine for a few days and went flaky, again. Some more tweaks, then realized the driver door wouldn’t lock with the alarm... unsure if that’s been a longer term issue. No big deal, I left it like that for a week.

Something I noticed was if I put the window down, the door would open on its own... I don’t think that’s supposed to happen. I stopped using the window.

Car sat for a week, and this morning the door suddenly stopped opening. Used a grabber and opened the door from the rear door, all day.

Tonight, I took the door apart again. Fixing the issue, I ended up breaking a blue regulator clip and needed to break out the welder... don’t ask.

In the end, the door handle was faulty. Too much lateral play in the push lever. The pivot pin had wallowed out the hole, allowing the white bushing to slip off the release lever, even after I tweaked it.

I probably wasted 6 hours F’ing around with a beat handle. As soon as I grabbed a spare handle and started comparing them, it was apparent. This handle has way less play in several areas. It almost looked new, with almost no wear.

As a FYI, B3 strike boxes are identical, after you remove a micro switch. In fact, the B4 strike box has the clips to hold the micro switch. Same part number with a different suffix. I took a chance and bought a set, since I thought I ruined my strike box, with the tweaks.

-Todd
 

garreth5

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2015
Location
GA
TDI
jetta
Replaced the ignition switch and then I ordered american racing wheels at 4wheelonline.
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
'97 Passat x2
Getting after it tonight, just like old times. Engine has 555,230 miles on it and that's all she wrote. I could fix the HG, but it uses oil at about a quart every 600ish miles... sooooo, Nah.

 
Last edited:

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
If I have anything you need, let me know. I have an 11mm IP if you want to toss it on at the same time.

Life has been exceptionally busy here so I apologize for not heading out and getting the parts you mentioned.

I still need to sell the sedan and fix my own wagon. Ugh.
 

sniderbm

Member
Joined
May 1, 2018
Location
Wichita, KS
TDI
1996 Passat 5 speed
Did a starter earlier this week, I'm pretty sure it was the original I removed that made it 244k before giving up.

Went with one from Amazon by "Parts Player" as it seemed highly rated. Sure spins the motor faster than OEM did...

Was fun to learn (the hard way) that the starter bolts don't go into the block, they go through and actually thread into a motor mount...
 

TDIDaveNH

Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Location
North Conway, NH
TDI
'97 Passat x2
It'd be good practice to save that OEM starter and have it rebuilt locally and on the shelf when the Amazon one inevitably bites the dust.

If I have anything you need, let me know. I have an 11mm IP if you want to toss it on at the same time.

Life has been exceptionally busy here so I apologize for not heading out and getting the parts you mentioned.

I still need to sell the sedan and fix my own wagon. Ugh.
No worries, Abacus I'm busy myself....I should have done this work last year.
 
Last edited:

'lectricjeff

Active member
Joined
Mar 23, 2019
Location
Eastern PA
TDI
2003 Jetta Sedan 5 Speed
Had it towed from the side of the road to my uncle's house. I am pretty sure the IP bit the dust as the block was wet behind the IP and I could smell fuel.
 
Top