The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

[Windex]

That bottom scale is inches - the top is metric - the bolt it ~12mm at the thickest point.

The old bolt should work as long as it is tight in the new banjo fitting - post up a pic of the new fitting.

 

[mrbrefast]

ID is 3.75 or so:

New bolt in place is a solid fit:

Old bolt isn't quite as tight:

Tony mentioned on the page before that this worked alright for him to swap in, I am wondering what he did

 

[mrbrefast]

I checked mcmaster and we don't have an M12-1.5 female to M10-1.0 male adaptor:

am out of ideas here... any takers?

Edit: it seems I might have bought the wrong line from them a few months ago; this other line (http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-braided-oil-feed-line-for-1-6-1-9-td.html) seems to have the same size bolts on both sides. From what Tony said below, maybe I just need to make it work with the stock bolt. I have an email out to Darkside for guidance on this.

Separately, the high pressure sensor line doesn't each the side of the head where the sensor is being relocated. Not batting a thousand, today.

 

[Digital Corpus]

Was this the upper hose of death that goes to the cylinder head or the lower three way hose of death that feeds the pipe and cooler? Was it a crimp clamp that failed for a spring clamp?

Steve

3-way hose. No clamps failed, so it seems that the condition of the hose maybe it prone to slipping from under the spring clamp, or which I'll admit is possible, when I put the engine back together I somehow missed securing the hose properly albeit by a very small margin. I just woke up so Jack stands, coolant flush, and camera here I come.

 

[TonyJetta]

After countless hours of research, I used the 10mm nut that was originally on the head from the original short feed line. Yes, it is a less than ideal fit, but if you are careful, the bolt fits fine and will seal.

From what I recall, the oil filter adapter had a mid year chage, allowing the use of the coarse thread bolt.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

 

[Layerz]

Developed a boost leak identified through noise more then a notable performance drop.

Posted in the performance section but not worthy for what I did today:

Found this on the lower hose off the turbo



Popped a spare my friend luckily had on and looked on jacked up



Not once back on wheels



Basically lowered car = driveshaft rub but took a long time to go!

 

[Abacus]

After countless hours of research, I used the 10mm nut that was originally on the head from the original short feed line. Yes, it is a less than ideal fit, but if you are careful, the bolt fits fine and will seal.

From what I recall, the oil filter adapter had a mid year chage, allowing the use of the coarse thread bolt.

Tony
Sent from my e-diesel fleet

My older brother just swapped turbos from his '97 to the '96 and used the longer line with no issues. I'm not sure if the longer line has the same ID as the short OEM line, but it seems to work OK.

He swapped the plug to the head and left the two oil pressure sensors in place on the oil filter housing.

 

[Steve Addy]

Turbo line is off and my fears are confirmed: the new banjo bolt is different threading:

The old bolt at the very VERY end of it (3.5mm):



The new bolt is 3.5mm thick for several millimeters:



The old bolt is approximately 3.15mm thick for the remainder:



Anyone know if I can use the old bolt on the flex line fitting and have it work properly? I will be able to reach the fitting really easily off the oil cooler and change it if it doesn't work... but I don't want to damage anything with a test drive and insufficient bolt thickness...

The fine threaded bolt is for head mounted turbo oil feed lines, the coarse thread bolt I believe is for filter stand mounted turbo oil feed line. Yes, they are different.

I think that the head mounted banjo bolt has the same thread size as the oil pressure switch that could replace it. On the filter stand they used a larger banjo bolt with the coarser threads.

Steve

 

[mrbrefast]

After countless hours of research, I used the 10mm nut that was originally on the head from the original short feed line. Yes, it is a less than ideal fit, but if you are careful, the bolt fits fine and will seal.

I will possibly go out and try this today. Maybe use some Permatex gasket maker to seal around it. Did you use the new bigger copper washer that came with it?

My older brother just swapped turbos from his '97 to the '96 and used the longer line with no issues. I'm not sure if the longer line has the same ID as the short OEM line, but it seems to work OK.

The ID on the Darkside flex line seems comparable, and it has the right size fitting on one side - just a larger interior space on the fitting on the other end, into which the stock M10-1.0 bolt is a tight fit near the head of the bolt, and not tight as as the shank goes on. Per Tony above, I might just try it and hope for the best....

I think that the head mounted banjo bolt has the same thread size as the oil pressure switch that could replace it. On the filter stand they used a larger banjo bolt with the coarser threads.

Yeah, it looks like said filter stand is different between 96 and 97. Live and learn, I guess.

More on this... if I try my hand at making it work today.

 

[BluFalcon]

Actually, I did this yesterday.
"Fixed" my D/S door handle so that it actually opens the door, and doesn't require me to yank on the handle to get it to open. Changed out the climate control unit for a non busted one, and discovered the joy of pulling apart the Passat dash.

Today, I will be installing a new Pioneer head unit to replace the flaky one the previous owner had installed in the car.

 

[TonyJetta]

I will possibly go out and try this today. Maybe use some Permatex gasket maker to seal around it. Did you use the new bigger copper washer that came with it?

I did use the copper crush washers that came with the larger bolt.

Tony

 

[tdidieselbobny]

I had Advance test the battery out Saturday-it showed it as good needing recharge,838 CCA measured(900 rated) and 12.3 volts. I was going to charge it at home,but my charger crapped out on me. Soooo I decided to take battery out and take it to Wal Mart for them to check it out.Came back in an hour and said it was no good,so I got a new one(H8) w/date code of 12/14 under warranty. While battery was out,I tried to see what was causing spark when the starter was being energized(noticed it back on New Years Day after the IP got fixed)-nothing really stood out,so I decided to put the starter I got from TDIDave in. Didn't see anything amiss on the old starter when I removed it,so that'll just be put away for now. After I got starter in and was cleaning cable ends up,I noticed that a wire was broken off flush w/ a blue plug-you know,the one w/ 2 wires that goes to the alternator, so 3 snips later,2 connectors,heat shrink and tape I'm good to go. Put battery in,I used the felt pieces on the posts this time. Double checked all bolts and connections,then fired it up-went good,so now I need to get new radio,as it no longer has any display showing(that happened on Friday).......

 

[mrbrefast]

Edit: it seems I might have bought the wrong line from them a few months ago; this other line (http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-braided-oil-feed-line-for-1-6-1-9-td.html) seems to have the same size bolts on both sides. From what Tony said below, maybe I just need to make it work with the stock bolt. I have an email out to Darkside for guidance on this.

Yup, I did order the wrong line:

Kudos to Darkside in advance for their help in figuring this out! I will post photos of the install when I have the new line in hand.

EDIT: Darkside sent me the wrong line again. I asked them to confirm the new one was M10-1.0 on both sides, they did, and they sent the wrong line again. NOT pleased.

 

[Campbellonh]

Took advantage of the nice weather yesterday to wash it.....and found out my sunroof leaks

 

[Col Sanders]

Fixed the sticky e-brake, the 25th repair or replace job since I became the new owner in Dec last year. Probably do the radio lights next, one is out. On the subject of lights, does the A/C and fresh air buttons have a light when on ? If so, how to change ?

 

[Abacus]

Yes, they share the same bulb, which is burned out on yours. Remove the switch assembly and solder in a new bulb, I don't remember the exact number right this second but Radio Shack carries the bulbs.

 

[Digital Corpus]

I believe it's bulb 74. Same as 3rd brake light.

 

[Col Sanders]

Ok, thanks for the info, guess I'll go stand on my head again looking how to remove the switch, LOL

 

[Abacus]

It's not the same bulb as the brake light, I think you're thinking of the HVAC controls.

To remove the switch, remove the HVAC control surround, then unscrew the HVAC control assembly from the dash, the switch is attached to the bottom and comes right off. No need to remove the HVAC controls themselves. The switch then comes apart easily and you'll see the bulb.

 

[Col Sanders]

Ok, should be a easy fix. Wonder why the little HVAC bulb does not light up all three controls. I changed it and only the center one gets sufficient light. All the plastic parts are in place. Should be a bulb in each one. Guess VW didn't think so.

 

[Campbellonh]

The lights is supposed to be distributed via the curved clear plastic pieces, but if there is a little crack in the plastic the light won't go past it.

 

[Col Sanders]

I'll check the little plastic pieces when I take it apart today.

 

[Abacus]

Also use a 2723 bulb, it'll be much brighter.

 

[Abacus]

Just before the mini vacation to PEI I was asked to look at my brother's B4 for a low power issue. I determined it was the turbo although he didn't want to believe it. Well, the results are in:

See how offset and the center shaft is, and how worn the vanes? Here is a good one for comparison:

So yeah, it was shot. It was changed out and there are no further issues with it other than some turbo lag, but I think I found the cause last night with a misaligned clamp causing a boost loss.

In addition, the car drove like crap, so I was asked to give a hand fixing the problems.

The old tie rod ends:

Old rear struts, which were so crusty I couldn't reuse the hardware and had to raid my stash in the barn. It's now sporting new TC's with B4V HD springs. That's a Rancho shock boot on the bottom pic, which is a little long but fits perfectly otherwise. I am tired of the OEM ones turning into disks in short order.

New brake pads and rebuilt sliders.

Can't imagine why it was handling funny:

And no matter how good the parts are, if your seat is broken internally, you're not going to be comfortable. I rewelded this one last summer and finally convinced him to just swap it out since it takes all of 10 seconds.

Continued...

 

[Abacus]

...Continued.

Anyone see anything wrong with this picture? I mean other than that the e-brake cables are trashed.

Yep, the orientation is the same for both bushings when they're supposed to be opposed. I can't image why it handled funny. Then again, this might have had something to do with it:

I told him I refused to install anything Meyle, so he bought Febi and Altrom, and we used the homemade installation tool which makes installing these a breeze. We couldn't separate the brake line on the driver's side so we had limited clearance, but it worked.

Damn Meyle junk...

Then on to the front control arm, which was also moving around. He installed the front not long ago but it was moving during the tie rod end installation. He even used the TT bushing, but we swapped on another control arm since his was obviously toast.

Huh, I wonder what the problem could be, but I found it in short order: more Meyle junk and torn on both sides of the bushing. The never-seize wasn't even dry on it!

And now it drives like new again, so he's very pleased. I did warn him about one of his wheels, on which the steel rim has been grossly overtightened and is enlarging the holes, so he said he'd swap it out and make that one a spare.

There are still some items left for completion but they're minor and can wait. I had 14 hours into this already and I'm sick, so this was more than enough. At some point we need to address the rust and rear window issues, because this is just unacceptable by any reasonable standard.

And I was just informed the starter in the wife's B4 he borrowed while this was being fixed just crapped out. Good thing I have a spare on the shelf I can swap in.

 

[Steve Addy]

Wow Abacus, you're getting pummeled by repair work on that thing.

Very disappointing to see the previous rear bushings installed incorrectly. Not saying it contributed to the failure but I wouldn't doubt it. My sense is that these bushings have to work in tandem when dealing with fore / aft movement of the axle. Who ever removed them before the last replacement obviously didn't pay any attention to their orientation when they installed the new one.

Not happy about the front bushing failure. I had purchased these identical bushes before hearing about all the Meyle complaints and because autohausaz only offered the Meyle version. Now it looks like I'll need to stock another set for the B3V for when the Meyle head south. Are his front struts in good shape?

I am curious as to where your brother found Febi rear beam bushings stateside? The only Febi ones I've seen are sold in the UK with unfavorable exchange rate and high shipping charges.

Steve

 

[Abacus]

He waits until the last possible minute to do any work and then has to scramble to get it done (inspection was due last month), along with beg and plead me since he's stressed about it. It'd be a lot easier to do this stuff as it needs to be done but he's purely reactionary to the Nth degree. He was still driving the car until the turbo failed, but how is a mystery to me. The last time he drove my sedan he said he hated it because "when you move the steering even the slightest bit the whole car moves". Um, yeah, that's the way it's supposed to work.

The front struts are in pretty good shape but after the rears made the car ride a lot better he's thinking of replacing the fronts as well.

He ordered the rear bushings from NAPA and got 3 Altrom and 1 Febi. The Febi did look better than the Altrom. I wonder if you can specify Febi from NAPA and see if they deliver. Know anyone there who would look it up for you? If not, I know a guy who owns a few NAPA's that may be able to hook me up.

 

[Yblocker]

What a good brother you are!

 

[Steve Addy]

He waits until the last possible minute to do any work and then has to scramble to get it done (inspection was due last month), along with beg and plead me since he's stressed about it. It'd be a lot easier to do this stuff as it needs to be done but he's purely reactionary to the Nth degree. He was still driving the car until the turbo failed, but how is a mystery to me. The last time he drove my sedan he said he hated it because "when you move the steering even the slightest bit the whole car moves". Um, yeah, that's the way it's supposed to work.

The front struts are in pretty good shape but after the rears made the car ride a lot better he's thinking of replacing the fronts as well.

He ordered the rear bushings from NAPA and got 3 Altrom and 1 Febi. The Febi did look better than the Altrom. I wonder if you can specify Febi from NAPA and see if they deliver. Know anyone there who would look it up for you? If not, I know a guy who owns a few NAPA's that may be able to hook me up.

I used to know a couple guys at the NAPA distribution warehouse who would probably have been able to find out but they're not there anymore and the new crop of people working there seem to be well, how do I say it nicely, clueless?

I would really be interested in knowing if you could specify the Febi versus other brands. That would be a deciding factor in the next go round with rear bushings. As I've said before NAPA could do a much better job of selling to the import crowd if their website and part lookup system for users (not employees) was better.

Where I am if you don't take the part number in with you you're asking for trouble from the get go. And that's beside the fact that some of their replacement parts are really exorbitantly priced. I'm also curious as to whether the Altrom bushings had any identifying information on them at all. Altrom is just another BA / ITM type that repackages products made by other companies. I'd prefer to know who actually made the stuff versus whose name got stuck on the box.

Steve

 

[Abacus]

The Altrom bushings had no identifying marks other than the date circle, I looked specifically for something for identification and found none.