The never ending battle

Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
Before 5 gallons of gas gets involved, I'm turning to you guys. I'm at about a complete stand still. In the fall of 24 I picked up a 06 jetta with a brm tdi in it for 400 bucks. The car needed an oil pan but supposedly ran. So I took a gamble and got the car and oil pan and it actually ran just fine. My perfect plan was to swap it into my 1999 ford ranger with the 3.0 SAS with a dana 44. Ordered the adapter, sent the computer to get programmed by malone, and got to work. I trimmed down the stock wiring harness from the tdi Facebook pages and figured I'd be able to make it work. Got the engine in, wired up and with a little help, got it to run and rev up. I've been working on as time and money comes up. A month or 2 ago I decided I'd take it for a maiden voyage. I made it about 1/4 mile away and the throttle pedal died. Truck was just at an idle. Limped it back home where upon moving wires I found there was several wires chaffed through on the engine (smaller plug) wiring harness. I repaired them and thought i was good. However, upon driving it down my driveway, the throttle stopped again. This time I ordered a vcds so I can read the computer. I read the codes and found po642, and po1601. I figured the wiring harness could be broken internally leading to this issue since ive heard that can happen on the brm cars, so after $400, I was able to find a new wiring harness. Welp I installed it again and there's still nothing. No throttle pedal. On the rosstech vcds, I can see the throttle pedal position move, however it won't rev up. Another thing I've noticed would be the anti shudder valve(intake flap?) Is always open. It never shuts even when I turn the power on as if it doesn't have any power. The truck runs and idles fine just won't rev up. If anyone can help me, I'd be much appreciative.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
Yes, both of those codes are still present. When I clear the codes, they will always come back after I restart the truck. What would you recommend i do next? Battery is 12.13v and I have all the grounds tied together on a terminal strip so I doubt it's a ground issue
 

Rx7145

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2017
Location
Ohio
TDI
2006 Jetta BRM
Well it’s going to be something weird that fixes it. So I would try it. I would also suggest grounding the pedal to a different ground. But I’m leaning towards the computer being bad.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
Grounding the pedal? I don't recall the pedal having a ground, just 6 wires that go to the computer. It seems like that's working as the vcds is reading it when I move the pedal. It did work as I was able to rev it prior to the test drives. I'm gonna go through the wiring again. It has to be something stupid.
 

325_Guy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Location
West Central Texas
TDI
MkV Jetta
Is the electrical connector at the pedal is fully engaged?

I had something similar happen with mine after having to remove the pedal for some interior work. It turned out that even though I firmly pushed the connector onto it's socket, and fancied that I heard the little *click*...it in fact was not fully engaged.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
I'll double check it in the morning. I'm pretty sure it is but I'll unbolt the pedal to verify it is. Any way to test the pedal to verify its working? Like testing ohms?
 

P2B

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Location
Toronto & Muskoka, Canada
TDI
2002 Jetta, 2003 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon
Yes, both of those codes are still present. When I clear the codes, they will always come back after I restart the truck. What would you recommend i do next? Battery is 12.13v and I have all the grounds tied together on a terminal strip so I doubt it's a ground issue
In that case the ECU is definitely suspect.
The other code is for the 5v supply to sensors. ECU is responsible for that.
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
I sent the tune company a message about it. Hopefully it's something simple nothing major. Just weird the fact it worked fine sitting there then when I started to drive it cut out. Almost like a limp mode cutout
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2025
Location
Tennesse
TDI
Brm
I started digging. Vcds is giving a sensor reference voltage A too low, and a relay for terminal 30 implausible. I replaced the 60 pin harness due to previous damage, however nothing changed. So I started digging. I unhooked the asv to see if that made a difference but nothing. I did notice when I started it before, it would operate but not now. cam sensor was next. It has 3 pins and I had 23k ohms between 1 and 3, but that was it on the sensor and nothing to ground on any pin. I went to the plug side next. With the key off, I had Pin 1(square side) to ground 315 ohms
Pin 2 to ground 4344 ohms
Pin 3 to ground 12.8 ohms
Upon turning power on to the computer, I had 5.1v on the center terminal(2) but no 12v to either of the other sides. Starting the truck made no difference. What suggestions do people have for me to do next? I'm leaning towards the computer is bad unfortunately but wanted to get other people's opinions.
 

super1

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Location
NY
TDI
none
I started digging. Vcds is giving a sensor reference voltage A too low, and a relay for terminal 30 implausible. I replaced the 60 pin harness due to previous damage, however nothing changed. So I started digging. I unhooked the asv to see if that made a difference but nothing. I did notice when I started it before, it would operate but not now. cam sensor was next. It has 3 pins and I had 23k ohms between 1 and 3, but that was it on the sensor and nothing to ground on any pin. I went to the plug side next. With the key off, I had Pin 1(square side) to ground 315 ohms
Pin 2 to ground 4344 ohms
Pin 3 to ground 12.8 ohms
Upon turning power on to the computer, I had 5.1v on the center terminal(2) but no 12v to either of the other sides. Starting the truck made no difference. What suggestions do people have for me to do next? I'm leaning towards the computer is bad unfortunately but wanted to get other people's opinions.
Have you checked all fuses with test light/ multimeter?
 
Top