The NARFmobile, My 2001 Golf TDI

[Growler]

wow, the rear axle rotted in half.. didn't see that one coming. not sure I have ever heard of that one before on a mk4.. Bent rear axles, yes.. rusted through... not quite.

 

[NarfBLAST]

August 2019 Updates

The temporary repair to the rear axle is still holding after thousands of hard kilometres including lots of towing this summer:





I replaced a wheel speed sensor and deleted the power steering.



Easy ABS Fault Fix

That is all.

 

[NarfBLAST]

June 2020 Update

Last winter there was a massive coolant leak from the water pump. I made it home and have been puttering around the yard without issues. 245,000 km on that timing belt kit and water pump and I did not have a "catastrophic failure" so I think I made the right decision by not changing it. I have the option of changing everything now and putting the car back on the road, but, I don't want to. I think the money and time would be better spent on a fun new project car.

So I have started selling any good spare parts... if you need a wheel bearing, abs sensor, starter, or a really nice set of snow tires and wheels check out the "Ontario Stuff For Sale" thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=5598403#post5598403

I pulled the good battery that I bought a few years ago and put that on a maintainer in the shed. I put an older battery and a solar panel in the car instead (disconnecting the battery from the chassis to give it the best chance) and it started up fine last couple of times.

I'm not parting it out yet because the radio is still wonderful and it can still move under its own power. It is parked way out back out of sight under a tree for now. The glass headlight lenses still sparkle every time I walk past. Here is a picture at sunset one evening this spring:



Thanks for everything.

 

[SilverGhost]

It's still pretty!! And if you weren't so far away I might actually take it whole so I could drive it.

Looks good for over 600K km

Jason

 

[NarfBLAST]

October 2020 Update:

In the last couple of weeks I picked up a shop crane, engine leveler, and engine stand.


Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 1: Pulling The Engine and Transmission

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 2: Engage Transmission Jack and Engine Stand

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 3: Engine Jobs Checked Off My List

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 4: Differential Drive Flange Seals

Good Times.

 

[bobt2382]

Wow, so excited to watch your progress.

 

[NarfBLAST]

Thanks Bob! I just finished two more videos in the series:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 5: Reuniting the Engine and Transmission

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 6: Will It Start?

Not sure if anyone will watch these and it doesnt' really matter, I enjoyed filming and editing them anyway.

There is much more to come!

 

[NarfBLAST]

Today I dropped the kids off at school in the Volkswagen for the first time since last December!

I'm really excited to put lots more kilometers on this car. The 2014 Honda Odessy can use a rest, it got up over 100,000 km this year (GASP!) and I want to keep that thing forever too. I look forward to being the old man driving around with only two seats and a grease stained 4x8 sheet of plywood in the back of his 30 year old minivan.

New video out:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 7: DIY Front Wheel Alignment

648,715 km and coundting... good times!

 

[NarfBLAST]

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 8: Final Steering Wheel Alignment and Brakes

Picking Up Leaves With The Volkswagen

 

[NarfBLAST]

Three more episodes:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 9: Rear Axle Beam Bushings

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 10: Rear Axle Removal

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 11: Shock Extensions and Fuel Tank Vent Line Repair

 

[NarfBLAST]

Thanks for the nice comments, here is a 474,000 km Update:

Had both front wheel bearings replaced at a local shop, they charged $750 but it was worth it. The wheel bearing noise had gotten so loud I was actually wearing ear-plugs on the highway. I would have tried to replace these myself but it was cold outside, there was no room in the garage, I wasn't sure if I wanted to go through the hassle, and then... We bought a house with a big two car garage! So I definitely did not have time to learn how to replace the front wheel bearings is my tiny garage.

I wanted the Golf roadworthy for towing. I have been using the utility trailer to clean up and move stuff to temporary storage so that we can show our house for sale. The goal is to move the entire house, except for the piano, using the utility trailer. Here is a picture of trailer load number three: most of my garage is in the trailer and the car.

edit: grammar and spelling

WOW! Eight and a half years and 175,000 km later I have just replaced the second of these front wheel bearings but only paid $25 each for the parts. The Golf and that trailer did end up moving most of the contents of the hosue other than the Piano, and the piano get used by our kids daily and needs to be tuned again. Now that I have a 20 ton hydraulic press and a set of front wheel drive bearing pressing tools I will probably never pay a shop to do this job again. It is so satisfying to do it yourself, let alone the money you save. The 20 ton press only cost $200 on special at Princess Auto, the front wheel drive press tools, and a fixture plate, cost $95 and $81 respectively on Amazon.ca. All in with tax and mostly free shipping maybe spent $450 on really cool tools that will become family eirlooms, and only $56 on parts. Still, $750 to have a shop do it was the right decision at the time, because I did not have the time or the tools.

edit: also, the time spent cleaning up and fixing up that house for showing turned a way bigger profit than the $300 I could have saved by doing it myself at that time, so still very happy with how that went.

 

[NarfBLAST]

Take a break from watching them count votes and watch me put the fuel tank and exhaust back in:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 12: Re-Installing The Fuel Tank and Exhaust

 

[joyjoy22]

Take a break from watching them count votes and watch me put the fuel tank and exhaust back in:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 12: Re-Installing The Fuel Tank and Exhaust

The best way to keep yourself busy. It seems like you had fun with this build.

 

[NarfBLAST]

Four new videos up:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 13: Rear Axle Beam Finally Goes Back In

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 14: Coolant Leaks

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 15: Clunking Strut Bearing

Let’s Fix the Volkswagen Part 16: Shifter End Links and Bushings

Update: I put the snow tires on today, but did not film it.

The only thing left is to weld in a new flex pipe to fix the droning/whistling exhaust.

 

[Johhny04]

Great series of videos Paul. I really enjoyed watching them. Learned a couple of new things.

 

[joyjoy22]

I find your videos interesting and helpful at the same time. It seems like car modification keeps you busy.

 

[NarfBLAST]

Thanks Johhny04 and jojjoy22,

This car never stops teaching me things, its not explicitly stated in most of the videos but just about everything is my first time, or, I learned how to do this while working on this car. Keeping me busy in an under-statement: I literally get a few days of driving, lately, before something else comes up... I figured out a while ago that this particular vehicle is an "engaging hobby" more than a "reliable car". Thankfully my wife and I "replaced" this car almost ten years ago, and I don't have to have it running every day. Like that little girl from that old nursurey rhyme: "When she is good, she is very very good, but when she is bad she is horrid."

I was not even planning on doing this repair, but the injection pump literally started weeping one cold morning, so here it is:

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 17: Injection Pump Quantity Adjuster Seals

 

[NarfBLAST]

The only thing left is to weld in a new flex pipe to fix the droning/whistling exhaust.

Let’s Fix The Volkswagen Part 18: Exhaust Flex Pipe Welding Jig

The car is much quieter, but, there is still a very specific drone at 80 km/h when power is applied in fourth or fifth gear... It is easier to hear now that the exhaust is quiet. I'm pretty sure its the CV joints in the axles. They are original. There is also a slight vibration under power at certain wheel speeds. With less power it is less noticable but I have noticed it for a few years now. Maybe if the car makes it to spring I will put a cheap pair of axles in it.

Doing lots of driving, am working on my third straight 1000 km tank before the low fuel light comes on. So nice to be able to vent and fill it all the way up ever since the fuel vent line was fixed back in episode 11! That and the shifter in episode 16 are the most satisfying repairs so far. Adjusting the timing and quanitiy adjuster to where it starts and runs really nice has been satisfying too.

Good Times.

 

[garreth5]

Very informative videos. I enjoyed watching them.

 

[NarfBLAST]

I put a brand new battery in the Volkswagen today! My first Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) battery too! I did a whole bunch of research and found that an AGM battery would be perfect for a car that sits out in the cold, only does short trips, and completely discharges its battery occasionally.

LOL, WHAT? This guys sounds crazy, he just paid 50% extra for a battery for a car he doesn't drive and if you look at the pictures he didn't even get the right size?!?

Let me explain some more.

I had killed the Group 94R (OEM Size) battery that was in the TDI

I had a Group 47 battery (wrong size, I know, it was sold to me by an autoparts store before I knew better) but it had been abused and was very weak.

I plan on using the Volkswagen as a backup generator by connecting it to a 3000 Watt inverter. I already have had great success using this setup to power a 4.5 HP shop vac that can be used as a back up sump pump. I looked into getting the biggest possible deep cycle marine battery that would fit on the TDI's battery tray, but then I did so more research and found that and AGM automotive battery would make more sense because it is designed to provide cranking amps yet would withstand greater levels of discharge and would recharge faster than a regular flooded lead acid battery. Besides, I would not be using the inverter without the engine running so I don't need a deep cycle battery.

Still, the price of a new battery for an old car that might only get used as a backup generator didn't make sense, until, I had EUREKA moment! I could justify the price of a really nice battery if it would also fit our new Honda Odyssey! The Honda takes a Group 24F battery that is slightly undersized for the TDI but about the same size at the Group 47 battery that I was sold years ago. Here is a comparison I cut and pasted together, note how much larger the 94R battery is:



Today I went out and bought this fresh new battery for my favorite toy (Group 24F in foreground, Group 47 behind and the Group 94R was not available for this picture because it had already been returned for the $20 core charge)



There is a bunch of extra space in the battery box, space for 20 more amp hours, oh well, this is a compromise for a battery that can serve duties in our Honda at a moments notice. Another important thing is that the factory VW hold down clip actually works here:



The 24F is a bit taller than the 47 and 94R, and the plastic "fuse holder bridge" is under tension, but it is held down by its own clips:



There is room to tuck the CTEK charger down the passenger side of the battery, but for now I have just set it where I can see the eight stage charge indicator. Maybe in the future I will use the CTEK ring terminal adapter and zip tie the charger to the inside of the battery box and re-install the battery cover. For now, I just have the clamps and everything out in the open, but protected from rain and snow under the hood. I found out the hard way that CTEK chargers (and others) are "weather resistant" but not "water proof" so they need some protection.



I really enjoy just standing back and looking at the engine bay after a fun job like this, so many good times... it would be nice to clean it one day.



Almost forgot to mention, cranked the engine with the new battery and it really jumped to life. Nothing like a new battery after beating on a tired old battery for too long.

Over SIX YEARS and 150,000 km later this battery just failed to start the car at -15 deg C this morning. I'd say we had a good enough run. Time to go battery shopping! We just went ahead and took the Honda Odyssey for the first day back to school since December (Extended break due to COVID-19). Good times! https://www.odyclub.com/threads/santos-speed-shop-day-cares-shop-van.215722/

 

[greengeeker]

nice videos Narf! I didn't know you had these going. Subscribed!

 

[NarfBLAST]

nice videos Narf! I didn't know you had these going. Subscribed!

Thanks Nick!

 

[NarfBLAST]

Battery shopping can get complicated, especially if you want get the best sized battery to fit multiple vehicles. After doing some research, I narrowed the choices, and made a chart basted on prices and specifications for the lowest priced battery of each size available at Canadian Tire:


edit: the fourth line from the bottom is the length x width x height in milimeters, and the last line is the "resever capacity" in minutes which relates roughly to amp-hour capacity.

My mother also had trouble starting her 2015 Nissan Micra in the cold. She claims that the neighbour put his battery charger on it for a few hours and the car later started, but considering her battery is 6 years old it should probably be replaced.

Meanwhile, after a couple of failed attempts to charge and start the Volkswagen's battery in these Polar Vortex temperatures, it ended up needing a jump start from the Honda Odyssey, which, co-incidently, got a new battery from Costco just last week.



Rather than try and convice my mother to change the battery pro-actively, I thought I would just buy that size battery and install it in the Volkswagen until mom realizes that she really does need a new battery.



I drove the jump-started Voklswagen to pick up the new battery. I even stopped and started the engine twice while waiting for curbside pickup at the store. Appearantly the old battery has no trouble starting the engine when it is warm; maybe I can squeeze another summer out of it?

Here is the new undersized Group 85 battery installed in the Volkswagen's battery compartment:



This morning I made a quick "cold start" video:

I doubt I will splurge on a larger battery that can only be used in the Volkswagen. I understand the smaller battery will have a harder and possibly shorter life in the Volkswagen, but then again, how many years does the Volkswagen really have left?

I am very happy with the value in this undersized Group 85 battery. It has got nearly the capapcity of the larger and more expensive 94R/H4/H7 battery with the added benefity that it can be swapped into my mother's Micra. I think it would also fit the Honda and the Kia.


Good times.

 

[nicklockard]

There should be a Tdiclub rewards show for our categories:

• Economy
• Longevity
• Performance

I'd nominate you for the first two with how you've kept Narf on the road!

 

[NarfBLAST]

There should be a Tdiclub rewards show for our categories:

• Economy
• Longevity
• Performance

I'd nominate you for the first two with how you've kept Narf on the road!

Thanks Nick!

The other day I noticed the odometer read exactly 5,000 km short of 2/3 million, so I snapped a picture:



Meanwhile, the heat works, the snow tires grip, and the lifted suspension rides like a dream, so I have been driving the Volkswagen every chance I get. Also, with the tight manual shifter and lack of power I feel like I have the confidence and control of diesel tractor in the snow: I can rev it up without breaking the tires loose and let off the accelerator to control speed precisesly without hitting the brakes. Here is a picture from today:



I wonder if I should go ahead and order the 700,000 km europlate now? I ordered the 600,000 km europlate at 550,001 km and kept it under the back seat for a year and a half until that special moment:

Yeah, I'm totally going to order that "700 000 KM" europlate as soon as I'm done posting this. Even if the car gets parked again, or never makes it to 700k, the europlate can sit under the back seat forever, or get recycled with the car, and it will still be totally worth the $30 just to know it is was there. Thanks again, Nick!

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Where did you get these plates from?

 

[NarfBLAST]

Where did you get these plates from?

I've purchased from https://europlates.com in the passt but there are others selling similar custom items out there, which I may try, since the folks at europlates can't seem to get back to me about shipping to Canada...

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Neat, thanks.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

I just now finished this thread. It was one of the most enjoyable reads I have ever had online, and you are truly an inspiration. I want this thread to become a book, I would buy every new edition in a heartbeat. I am hungry for more. I have been reading a lot and learning from this site, but you and this thread gave me the nudge I needed to make an account. I have an 02 silwer golf identical to yours, and I just want it to look just like yours now. It only has 216K on it, and I am hoping there is a lot of life left. I recently picked it up and have done all of the basic care, and I am going to start doing some things to really make it my own soon, starting with the joey mod and black grille. I eventually want to grab some mud flaps and a black hood too. A couple things about this thread. How did you get that backless logo on the hatch you mentioned? I absolutely love it. And I wanted to tell you, me and my brother have an 04 jetta wagon TDI that we also put gravelguard on the rockers. We also taped it up and around the wheel arches like modern Alltracks. It looked like it got a lift from the added darkness haha. Anyway thank you for all the info, videos, and inspiration. Carry on and keep this car going!

 

[NarfBLAST]

How did you get that backless logo on the hatch you mentioned?

Glad you enjoyed the thread! I lurked for years before I decided to start posting, then I couldn't stop!

Thanks for the easy question about the backless emblem:

The emblem is a three piece deal consisting of the chrome part, the hard grey plastic part and a soft rubber dust gasket around the outside. This three piece deal is held on by double sided tape onto a round fully painted depression in the hatch. There are no holes in the body or the paint. If you grab the outside of the rubber gasket with good fingernails on both hands you should be able lift one side or the other and pull the whole thing off without damaging the paint. I have done this on two hatches without incident. Probably best to do it on a warm day when the car has been sitting in the sun. Once you have the three piece embled in you hands, IIRC, I think you just have to flip it over and trim the little thru-posts from the chrome part that hold it to the grey plastic part. Those two parts should now separate easily. Then you can trim the posts flush on the chrome emblem.

Now you can use some high quality 3M emblem tape to carefully go around the outside edge of the back of the chrome emblem. Quality tape is the key, but luckily there are pleanty of Amazon and Ebay sellers that sell re-packaged 3M tape. I guess you could buy it locally but you might pay more per foot. This is what I use, just bought my second roll in ten years, I use it for hobby stuff and around the house too: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B085WW4ZH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The double sided foam tape does NOT like to form into a circle, so you can't do the whole edge in one shot. You will have to lay out flat pieces and trim quite a bit and get creative. The foam tape is probably the hardest part of the whole process, but it is worth it. Its really important to have it lay flat with no wrinkles. This may involve cutting many small pieces to fill all the gaps. Leave the backing on until the outter rim is completely covered with tape. Clean the area around the on the hatch thoroughly with iso-propal alchohol for best adhesion. Finally, pull the backing off the tape (trying not to get fingerprints on it, use the tip of a pointy rasor blade to get under the tape works) then press it on to the hatch lightly the first time, and you can reposition it once or twice without harm. Once you are satisfied, press firmly. Once the tape has cured in place (24hours maybe?) it is should be pressure washer proof for the life of the vehicle. I've never had one fall off, I've had them on there for years and never worry about it at the car wash.

Sorry for the long explanation, but I've done a bunch of emblem mods and have really enjoyed them and am thankful for opportunity to share everything I have learnd. Also, I would hate for you loose your emblem.

Welcome aboard, Good luck!