The impossible oil filter change: GRRRRR

[shift957]

So I scored a great deal on Edge fully synthetic 0w-40, bought 10 quarts and 2 filters for $70.

This is the first time changing the oil on my TDI for ME, and I watched the you tube to be sure of everything. I change the oil in my diesel van and other trucks cars, no problemo.

So I jack it up, drop old oil and go to unscrew the filter housing cap and am at a standstill. I tried the filter wrench with the handle that tightens down as you crank, only to find it is too big and they didn't have a smaller one. I tried a pipe wrench and it really doesn't fit well in confined space and the jaws are at their max and slipping on the cap. I measured it with a caliper to find it is 74, so I bought a 74/76 filter cap fitting tool and it just slides.

I started this yesterday evening and it's POURING rain out now, so I'm pretty frustrated at the moment.

Any tricks or tools I should try? Any help appreciated!

 

[belome]

When all else fails, the big blue channel locks usually do the dirty.

https://www.channellock.com/original-tongue-groove.aspx

 

[steve6]

I usually just get a really good grip with my hands and it will turn if it hasn't been cranked down at a stupid torque. I also use the old style oil wrenches, these tighten enough as you pull them around the filter and are small enough you should be able to use it in that area.

This may not be the right size, just for reference http://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...8-in-strap-type-oil-filter-wrench/A-p8104952e

 

[aja8888]

So I scored a great deal on Edge fully synthetic 0w-40, bought 10 quarts and 2 filters for $70.

Curious as to why you bought the above oil for a 2002 TDI?

 

[TdiRN]

So I scored a great deal on Edge fully synthetic 0w-40, bought 10 quarts and 2 filters for $70.

This is the first time changing the oil on my TDI for ME, and I watched the you tube to be sure of everything. I change the oil in my diesel van and other trucks cars, no problemo.

So I jack it up, drop old oil and go to unscrew the filter housing cap and am at a standstill. I tried the filter wrench with the handle that tightens down as you crank, only to find it is too big and they didn't have a smaller one. I tried a pipe wrench and it really doesn't fit well in confined space and the jaws are at their max and slipping on the cap. I measured it with a caliper to find it is 74, so I bought a 74/76 filter cap fitting tool and it just slides.

I started this yesterday evening and it's POURING rain out now, so I'm pretty frustrated at the moment.

Any tricks or tools I should try? Any help appreciated!

They do make an oil filter wrench for the filter cap. Its the smaller one at any auto parts store. Or you can get the one with the expanding jaws that a 3/8 extension and ratchet will fit into, just did mine this weekend.

 

[shift957]

I'm actually thinking of cleaning the oil filter cap off with solvent and JB welding a metal cap wrench to it so it's always on there, not slipping and I just need a wratchet to upt it on and off.

 

[TdiRN]

Just make sure its on there GOOD. If it jiggles off that might end up in your fans.....

 

[UhOh]

Could have been worse. Last oil change I did I'd pulled the filter and started a top-side evacuation only to have the stupid fluid extractor (MityVac!) start spewing oil out the handle on me: apparently MityVac just can't get around to spending any money on simple R&D to correct this design flaw. I retrieved my 12v HF transfer pump and by the time I managed to get fittings and hoses to work the pump died! I was about to give up when I remembered (after trying to find something at a local auto parts store -one store had the MityVac and I was NOT going to buy another one- and a guy points out that they had this hand pump and looking it up online I saw that it was something that I HAD) I had a couple of these cheesy/cheap pumps (the kind that leak like crazy and hoses pop off of). Used one to finish the job that the more expensive crap failed to do. So... I had oil all over the place, plus broken crap!

Moral of story: Make sure you have the tools to do the job BEFORE you go to do the work; AND, have GOOD tools! (I thought that the MityVac was supposed to be a good tool- it had worked the previous three times that I'd used it.)

 

[TdiRN]

That specific scenario is why I have drive up ramps and a torx bit screwdriver

 

[shift957]

Curious as to why you bought the above oil for a 2002 TDI?

Are you referring to the weight or the brand of oil? This exact oil is European model specific with the 502 00 / 505 00 designation. From what I have read in this forum, This is exactly what is recommended for this car. Am I missing something?

 

[aja8888]

Are you referring to the weight or the brand of oil? This exact oil is European model specific with the 502 00 / 505 00 designation. From what I have read in this forum, This is exactly what is recommended for this car. Am I missing something?

Thanks, I was thinking about the weight as the older TDI's were spec'd with 5W 40 oil. But now that oils have improved, I assume 0W is also appropriate. Good prices, for sure. Where did you score that deal with two oil filters?

 

[shift957]

Thanks, I was thinking about the weight as the older TDI's were spec'd with 5W 40 oil. But now that oils have improved, I assume 0W is also appropriate. Good prices, for sure. Where did you score that deal with two oil filters?

I go with the 0w-40 and it yields better fuel mileage than heavier weight. I drive pretty easy. I missed the deal Walmart had this exact oil marked from $8/quart down to $5/quart on clearance. I found this particular deal at Advance auto for 5 quarts and a filter for 32.99. The filter in the deal did not fit my car and I asked for an upgrade to a Mann filter, but they did not have the Mann filter for my car in stock. So they threw in Purolator filters. Meh.... I'll have to source Mann filters and keep them in stock.

The Castrol Edge 0w-40 is getting harder to find. Advance wanted $9/quart separately. So 5 quarts and a filter for 32.99 was a deal I couldn't resist.

 

[aja8888]

I go with the 0w-40 and it yields better fuel mileage than heavier weight. I drive pretty easy. I missed the deal Walmart had this exact oil marked from $8/quart down to $5/quart on clearance. I found this particular deal at Advance auto for 5 quarts and a filter for 32.99. The filter in the deal did not fit my car and I asked for an upgrade to a Mann filter, but they did not have the Mann filter for my car in stock. So they threw in Purolator filters. Meh.... I'll have to source Mann filters and keep them in stock.

The Castrol Edge 0w-40 is getting harder to find. Advance wanted $9/quart separately. So 5 quarts and a filter for 32.99 was a deal I couldn't resist.

Thanks, I found a similar deal a few months ago at Pep Boys for the Mobil product for my 2014 Passat. I'll have to keep my eyes open for the Advance Auto deals also.

 

[JETaah]

Sometimes throwing a rag over the cap and then using the tool on that will give you better grip. I have to do that even with the "proper" cap tool because it will skip across the flats.

 

[BobnOH]

I'm always surprised to see these threads. You can apply an awful lot of torque with 2 hands. I'm guessing they get way over snugged.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I use a strap wrench for this.

 

[shift957]

Everything Euro in winston-salem was the last to change my oil. the tech at a dealership in Louisville said the cap was way too tight too, from the previous vw dealership in greensboro, nc changing it.

I finally got it off with a pipe wrench.

NOW MY PROBLEM IS THIS: new o-rings on and Purolator filter installed on the cap, I cannot get the cap to seat on the threads and screw on. almost as if the Purolator filter is longer than it needs to be. I tried to get the purolator filter to come off, but it seems stuck onto the cap pretty good. I guess I'll go try again and if I can get it off i'll measure it beside the filter that was in there. I'm just afraid to put too much pressure down on it and crossthread the damn thing.

 

[steve6]

I'm always surprised to see these threads. You can apply an awful lot of torque with 2 hands. I'm guessing they get way over snugged.

I was always told to just tighten hand tight - which I do.. I had a buddy doing his own oil changes and he says to me one day.. The oil filter was stupid tight, I almost couldn't get it off.. I asked him how he tightened it, and he said 'with the tool till it felt good and snug'... some people shouldn't be doing their own work.

 

[shift957]

I agree with you guys. All 3 of my oil changes were done by shops and every time everyone complained about how tight the cap is, and I guess the little ridges for the filter wrenches are worn so the filter wrench can't get a grip.

Unfortunately, I cannot get the Purolator filter in the cap to seat on the threads of the filter housing by simply screwing it on. I found the filter was not fully seated onto the cap piece. i had to pull the plastic piece that goes through the filter off with the filter from the cap to actually see it not fully seated. I then had to take the filter off it to reinstall the long piece back onto the cap, then reinstall the filter. once again, it is not simply screwing on.

I seriously think the Purolator filter is not an exact fit for the inside diameter at the top where it seats to the cap, causing the filter to sit lower and not allow the threads to engage.

I'm about ready to go source a Mann filter because this is pissing me off pretty good. Nothing should be this complicated.

 

[BobnOH]

Some folks will disagree, but if I needed to buy a wrench for this, I would look for a nice strap wrench.

 

[RT1]

X2 A strap wrench is a handy tool for applying torque to things that you don't want to crush with metal jaws. I'm curious about the remark pulling the plastic piece that goes through the filter. I didn't think that was removable and without it (and the o-ring on the bottom of the shaft) there will be no oil pressure...

Did you set the old filter side by side with the new to compare length? 'Could be you just got the wrong filter for your engine. There's a top and bottom side too, at least there is on the BEW. Maybe it's upside down?

 

[shift957]

Did you set the old filter side by side with the new to compare length? 'Could be you just got the wrong filter for your engine. There's a top and bottom side too, at least there is on the BEW. Maybe it's upside down?

Yes, i set them side by side and they are same length. like I said the an above post, i think the inside diameter is smaller, not allowing it to seat properly. I made sure the side marked "top" was on top.

 

[BobnOH]

We've seen a few filters that had bad media, but it's unusual for the thing to not physically fit. They go on tight. Many of the national brands like Purolater are actually getting them from Mann or Merle or Wix or?.

 

[gatz]

+1 for the strap wrench.

Regarding them being overtightened, I'm not sure why but ours is very hard to tighten. It needs an incredible amount of torque just to hit bottom of the plastic threads. Maybe age, maybe previous owner. Who knows. Threads are oiled up and everything and I need the strap wrench just to get it to bottom out when putting it back on. Thus taking it off is even harder.

 

[JETaah]

.... I made sure the side marked "top" was on top.

You can't always count on that. I have come across a few Manns that have "top" on the bottom.

 

[PakProtector]

There is some reason for the Gut 'n Tight torque spec. Specifically the first diesels in the Wabbits, those would blow the seal o-ring right out if they were not tightened to spec. These in the ALH are a completely different animal of course...LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[FlyTDI Guy]

The AP 'plastic' cap wrenches are usually marked 74-76mm and are too loose to remove a stubborn cap. Get the metal Assenmacher one and it'll work fine. It's actual 74mm and fits snugly without slipping. I used to have the plastic one and it was junk. You only need to tighten the cap enough for the rim to home out on the metal base/housing. The o-ring does the sealing, not torque on the cap. They are usually harder than that to remove after 10k however. The correct wrench will make it a snap.

http://www.asttool.com/detail_page....total=77&offset=36&stype=general&category=Oil Change Products
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-0219-Mercedes/dp/B000I1CCCA#Ask
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014EN4HSO?psc=1

 

[shift957]

You can't always count on that. I have come across a few Manns that have "top" on the bottom.

Oddly, I thought I already responded to this. oh well...

I read about the "top" being printed on the wrong end. Looking inside the filter from each end, there is a smaller diameter inside circumference and the one with the deeper length to that smaller circumference is the top.

Unfortunately, Advance Auto did not have any Mann filters in stock for my car.

 

[UhOh]

You can't always count on that. I have come across a few Manns that have "top" on the bottom.

I've come across filters that aren't marked at all! (of course, this had to occur at the same time my MityVac fluid evacuator started puking on me- thanks to the great folks at Bora Parts for answering my frantic call about how to figure out what side is up! [I was too distracted by the MityVac disaster that I couldn't think straight on the filter])

 

[TornadoRed]

I seriously think the Purolator filter is not an exact fit for the inside diameter at the top where it seats to the cap, causing the filter to sit lower and not allow the threads to engage.

I've never had a problem with Wix (also sold as NAPA Gold) or Mann filters. I suggest throwing that Purolator in the trash, if you haven't already.