The $1 Project Car

[TorquePower]

I was given a ‘04 Passat wagon TDI that ran when parked with a little over 100k miles on it, for $1 (yes, I wrote a check so there was a paper trail for the bill of sale). He stopped driving it because he had 100k or so miles on it and was working about a chain tensioner breaking and ruining the engin. He insisted the only way to fix the problem permanently was to do a balance shaft delete and switch to a rotary/gear drive. He sounded like he knew a lot, but the more I’ve asked him the more I realize he doesn’t actually have answers which brings me here and hopefully this is the correct place.
1) Does it matter where you buy the delete kit from?
2) What is the difference or pros/cons of the ALH kit and the BRM kit? I know they are both using previous model oil pumps/tensioners to resolve the manufacturing issue, but does it matter which one is used? Which is easier?
3) I’m sure after sitting for over a year here alone the battery is dead and needs to be charged, is it ok to hook this up like any regular car to a trickle charger, or is there something special I should know ahead of time? I know some German autos are funny with this and require unlock codes to be plugged in after those events.
4) I was told the vag com would be a must after completing the work, if anyone know the name of the exact one needed or where I can pick one up that would be great.

If anyone has any other helpful tips on how to proceed and not ruin this thing.

 

[PickleRick]

If there's no service record do a trans flush and filter.


There are a few write ups on how to do the BS delete. Brm puts out more oil pressure/volume but ALH is fine.

Empty the fuel tank and maybe do a moly treatment since it has sat that long

Probably also past due for a timing belt.

If the battery takes and holds a charge after sitting that long, buy a lottery ticket

 

[Lug_Nut]

1, 2,: You have no prior reference so the added shake from a delete won't be recognized. If you have prior BHW experience I'd suggest getting the gear drive for peace of mind and a smoother idle. The labor involved in a delete or for a gear install will be close. While in there replace the 'wear' items that have to be removed to get access to the balancer bits deeper in.
3, Battery is a common lead/acid. Trickle charge or up to 10 amp would be OK for me. I'd not use anything higher than 10. You've got time apparently so a slow charge isn't a concern. If it turns out to be unable to hold a charge, replace it. I suspect it might be revived. I believe the only code (factory radio) is matched to the cluster. No code re-entry should be needed after a dead battery state.
4, Vag-Com was an older name of a Ross-Tech product that VWAG put a cease and desist order on due to "VAG" being copy write protected relative to automotive products. The present name is VCDS, and that Ross-Tech brand of OBD II interface cable and the associated software is recognized as the best.
Fuel, if diesel (no bio blend), will be OK for years of storage. Change the fuel filter before running, change it again after the fuel in the tank has been used. Replacing filters is easier, and no less effective, than a tank drain and the cost of fuel disposal.

Get the transmission and torque converter flushed. DON'T simply have the pan dropped and topped off as that only gets a fraction of the fluid. The Z-F transmission is a bigger weak point on these cars than the chain driven balance shafts.

 

[TorquePower]

If there's no service record do a trans flush and filter.


There are a few write ups on how to do the BS delete. Brm puts out more oil pressure/volume but ALH is fine.

Empty the fuel tank and maybe do a moly treatment since it has sat that long

Probably also past due for a timing belt.

If the battery takes and holds a charge after sitting that long, buy a lottery ticket

It sat for 13-14 years, and a buddy and I pulled the ceramic glow plugs, without breaking any and the engine turned over without issue, so maybe a lottery ticket isn’t a bad idea. I did marvel/aft up in there like I was basting smoking ribs a few days before we tried it.
I will definitely need to clean the tank, that’s on my list.
The battery was replaced with a new one a year and a half ago and not really used for anything other than unlocking the steering and unlocking the car, and rolling down windows. But yeah I might end up having to get another one just to get it off the trailer.

 

[TorquePower]

1, 2,: You have no prior reference so the added shake from a delete won't be recognized. If you have prior BHW experience I'd suggest getting the gear drive for peace of mind and a smoother idle. The labor involved in a delete or for a gear install will be close. While in there replace the 'wear' items that have to be removed to get access to the balancer bits deeper in.
3, Battery is a common lead/acid. Trickle charge or up to 10 amp would be OK for me. I'd not use anything higher than 10. You've got time apparently so a slow charge isn't a concern. If it turns out to be unable to hold a charge, replace it. I suspect it might be revived. I believe the only code (factory radio) is matched to the cluster. No code re-entry should be needed after a dead battery state.
4, Vag-Com was an older name of a Ross-Tech product that VWAG put a cease and desist order on due to "VAG" being copy write protected relative to automotive products. The present name is VCDS, and that Ross-Tech brand of OBD II interface cable and the associated software is recognized as the best.
Fuel, if diesel (no bio blend), will be OK for years of storage. Change the fuel filter before running, change it again after the fuel in the tank has been used. Replacing filters is easier, and no less effective, than a tank drain and the cost of fuel disposal.

Get the transmission and torque converter flushed. DON'T simply have the pan dropped and topped off as that only gets a fraction of the fluid. The Z-F transmission is a bigger weak point on these cars than the chain driven balance shafts.

So back to 1 & 2…you are saying there is a different option or kit that allows a conversion to the rotary drive, rather than using the delete kit? Or are you talking about dropping a different engine in it?

I’ve driven in this car before when it was on the road. It was a pretty smooth ride. But I’m familiar with some rough runners too. I drove some of my dad’s old trucks (Dodge and Chevy), he also had a vw rabbit sedan from the 70s/80s, and has a vw rabbit truck with a Jetta engine from the 80s (I want to steal it but one remembers what was wrong with it).

I’m more concerned with the longevity of the car running than the smoothness of the ride, but if there are more options out there I don’t know about, I’m here to learn.

Realistically, do you think it is feasible for someone with mechanical but not VW experience to do the work on this car? Or do I need to try and hunt down someone on here that is close to me?

 

[Nuje]

If you've worked on cars before, I don't think there's anything super-precious about VW - have the manual; follow the instructions; come here and ask questions when something is vague or you're looking for options (as you're already doing).

I think you'll be fine.

(Gotta love that San Diego weather! It is unimaginable to me living in the PNW (Vancouver Island), where we get rain, drizzle and 85-100% humidity with temps between freezing and maybe 50°F (10°C) from October to March, of a car sitting for "13-14years" and being in any way habitable. I've had the rear seat belts grow fuzzies on them from just sitting. And the cars in the wrecking yards - if it's been there more than 2-3 seasons, it's a mould-ridden biohazard.)

 

[TorquePower]

If you've worked on cars before, I don't think there's anything super-precious about VW - have the manual; follow the instructions; come here and ask questions when something is vague or you're looking for options (as you're already doing).

I think you'll be fine.

(Gotta love that San Diego weather! It is unimaginable to me living in the PNW (Vancouver Island), where we get rain, drizzle and 85-100% humidity with temps between freezing and maybe 50°F (10°C) from October to March, of a car sitting for "13-14years" and being in any way habitable. I've had the rear seat belts grow fuzzies on them from just sitting. And the cars in the wrecking yards - if it's been there more than 2-3 seasons, it's a mould-ridden biohazard.)

Aww, that’s sad to think about, all those poor rusted babies. This one was partially garaged (he left the door open, and part of the car was rolled out so he could “work” on it) on Balboa Island (Newport Beach) it has a few little rust spots but the interior is clean and the rust is from the owner knocking into it most likely.

 

[Nuje]

Not so much the rust here as it is the fuzzy mould and whatever other funk that grows on any porous interior surface. I've seen steering wheels at the wrecker that you wouldn't want to get close to without a full hazmat suit. Like this, multiplied a few times over.

 

[PickleRick]

You can probably scrape that off into some capsules then sell it to promiscuous college students

 

[Nuje]

Naw - that's what we do with the mushrooms that start growing out of the floorboards.

 

[PickleRick]

Naw - that's what we do with the mushrooms that start growing out of the floorboards.

That's probably not to treat infections, that's probably to help them enjoy steely Dan albums

 

[TorquePower]

The more I look at this site the more terrified I am of working on this car...I was under the impression from my friend who gave me the car that the ceramic plugs were preferred. Looking at older posts I am finding out they are engine killers and need to go.

 

[PickleRick]

Swapping glow plugs will be the least of your worries! That's a 20 min job and a flash if you start soaking them a few days before removal. Get it up to normal running temp before trying the break them. If they don't spin freely reapply a good penetration spray and loosen/tighten repeatedly. Let soak further if necessary.

I got lucky and all of mine came loose with a 3/8 ratchet.

 

[TorquePower]

Swapping glow plugs will be the least of your worries! That's a 20 min job and a flash if you start soaking them a few days before removal. Get it up to normal running temp before trying the break them. If they don't spin freely reapply a good penetration spray and loosen/tighten repeatedly. Let soak further if necessary.

I got lucky and all of mine came loose with a 3/8 ratchet.

Lol, I already pulled them, not following the kit gloves method that Oilhammer so delicately described in an older How to that made me what to have a panic attack at all the things that probably should have gone wrong, but thankfully didn't. When I say "I," I actually mean my mechanic friend that helped me, he doesn't know TDIs but he's been around vehicles and power plants long enough to know not to force things. I had mixed AFT and Marvel and saturated the area for several days prior removing them so they came out easy and then in order to keep things clean, he put them back in, but not torqued, just enough to seal the chamber.

 

[caffeine]

The more I look at this site the more terrified I am of working on this car...I was under the impression from my friend who gave me the car that the ceramic plugs were preferred. Looking at older posts I am finding out they are engine killers and need to go.

There are two versions of ceramic plugs; the originals, which had that issue, then the post-post-recall ceramic ones with a steel sleeve on them, which I think are the preferred version to use now.

 

[MEgearhead]

So back to 1 & 2…you are saying there is a different option or kit that allows a conversion to the rotary drive, rather than using the delete kit? Or are you talking about dropping a different engine in it?

He's talking about the gear driven balance shaft option vs. the balance shaft delete option. My opinion is don't waste your time with the gear driven option. When I deleted mine proactively, I wanted to do the gear driven option, but I couldn't afford it at the time, and planned to put a gear driven one in later. That was 10 years and 100k ago. I'm not looking back.

The BRM option just has a different sprocket that spins the oil pump a little faster. I went that way, but it probably is moot, as the extra oil is likely just blowing out the pressure relief. The install of the BRM or ALH is the same.

It doesn't really matter where you get the delete kit. Just look closely at what each includes. Sometimes the price difference is because one includes more or better quality parts. You want to do a timing belt at the same time.

I don't agree that the transmission is weaker than the chain drive balance shaft. That chain drive was designed by someone who doesn't know how to design them. The first thing I learned when designing gear or chain drives was to use prime numbers as much as possible. It's been a while since I inspected mine, but I think the factor 6 shows up regularly if you count the number of teeth, links, and flats on all the elements of that system (sprockets, chain, gears, and even the hex shaft). When you lay the chain flat and check the wear in every link pin, it seems every sixth pin is significantly worse than the others. That stupidly designed system needs to go. The crank and balance shaft sprockets have to have a factor of two, but there's no reason they couldn't have made the balance shaft sprocket and the chain prime.

The transmission will likely die, as most have never been serviced. Just throw it in the trash and put a manual in when the time comes.

Before putting a lot of coin into it, I'd pull the valve cover, and inspect the cam/lifters, inspect the tandem pump for leaks, and the coolant flange/hoses on the back of the head for damage from a tandem pump leak.