TDIClub Secret Society of Benz Owners (SSBO)

[oilhammer]

They most certainly did... and it has a wrecked brother just like it as a parts car that came along with it.

You could even get the 190E with the 2.6L I6 gasser with a 5sp here. Had a customer with one, it was a rocket sled. But the clunky side loader gearbox doesn't make it very "sporty" to drive.

The non-turbo 2.2L diesel, which was just sold here for a couple years, and ONLY here (Europe used a 2.0L variant, that made the same power, with less fuel consumption... but wouldn't meet our emissions standards.... yes, dumb, I know).

Later one we got the 2.5L 5cyl, and for a minute, the rare turbo 2.5L from the bigger W124 (those were all automatics).

This one needs a lot of little things. I think it only has one functional glow plug, so cold starts are an "event". It'll hit right off on one, but that's not enough to get the engine started easily. The HVAC system is a mess. The belt drive is coming apart. Engine mounts are shot. Some dash lights are out. Radio is dead (the original Becker tape deck!). Power locks don't work. I'm afraid to try the sunroof. I got all the exterior lights working. New battery, new tires. It has been sitting for a while. It actually drives down the road really good, though. Funny MB stuck the giant steering wheel in these little cars, too, that's really the only awkward thing about it I don't like. But boy, it either has an enormous fuel tank, or the gauge is wonky, or this thing is super frugal.

 

[UhOh]

Brian, great car. I was wanting one of these to drop an om684/om613 into.

 

[compu_85]

Nice find!!

My SDL is getting closer to being back on the road. New head gasket is in, I've got new calipers waiting to go on (seals are leaking on the ones installed now).

The head gasket blew from the #1 cylinder into the oil gallery for the head. This pushed all the oil out of the lifters, my first sign something was wrong was the oil pressure gauge bouncing around at idle, and the lifters sounding like a box of rocks.




The upper timing chain guide pin put up a huge fight. I ended up drilling an access hole in the back side of the head to pound it out. I was hitting the drift hard enough sparks were coming off.

 

[compu_85]

Couple more photos...





Interestingly, MB changed the head and head gasket in early 1990 to prevent this issue. My engine was made in 1995.

If you wondered what an OM603 sounds like running with one glow plug removed... https://x.com/i/status/1791298971148927319

While everything was apart I cleaned up the surfaces, and re-routed wires to give things a tidy appearance



I also had a local Bosch shop rebuild the injectors. Quite annoyingly, 2 of them nail at idle fairly badly - the engine starts great, but as soon as the after glow shuts off the engine starts knocking and making exhaust smoke. They seem to work fine under load, I'm thinking they just don't have correct spray patterns at idle. I've yet to dig into this, I've been messing with the Audi instead...

-J

 

[oilhammer]

Nice job, Jason.

My engine doesn't look nearly that clean. And that goofy dual belt shock/spring/pivot thing all needs to come apart and be rebuilt, it has the tensioner pulley sitting at an awkward angle that looks like it could fling the belt off at any moment. It looks much like that engine, just 2 cyl shorter. The intake is a little different, being non-turbo of course. The air filter is just clipped on the end. The glow plugs look to be somewhat awkward to access, but at least I can see them.

The parts car has been sitting for 20 years. Put a new battery in it, started right up ... It is crashed pretty bad on the RF. I think it could have been fixed with the right bit of pulling to get the unibody rail back straight, but I'm no body guy.

Guy I got the cars from bought the one that got crashed in '92. It had 100k on it, he drove it another 200k, then someone pulled out in front of him. That was in 2004. Then he found this other one for cheap ($1000!) at a used car lot, and piled another ~100k on that, while saving the crashed one for parts. Here's the kicker, and the real true testament to the durability of these cars.... the crashed one starts/runs/and [sorta] drives. Because no parts needed to be taken off of it to keep the other on the road. And what sucks is, aside from the crashed part, I think it is in better shape! It's original paint still shines!

But I can't help but think that it must have been a pretty small, strange, eclectic few who would have chucked up $26K+ in 1984 to buy a small, slow, stick-shift sedan. I mean, in '84 that same money could have gotten you a diesel Jetta, an extra diesel Jetta, a diesel pickup (Toyota, Ford, GM, Nissan, all had them), and maybe even a third Jetta.

 

[compu_85]

The whole belt tensioner arm isn't that expensive, I've replaced it once or twice on my car. When I got my car the bearing was bad, and it made me think there was a fault in the timing chain.

The pin that holds the pivot for the tensioner spring in place is the upper timing chain guide pin that I had such a horrible time getting out. I pulled the threads out of the pin, snapped it off flush with the head after breaking the pivot off to get access... that when I drilled the hole in the head o perhaps start spraying that thing with some penetrating oil now....

I added a clutched alternator pulley from an om606 to my car, it makes the belt run *much* smoother. I'd upgraded from the 80a alternator to a 110, and the extra loading on the belt made the shock get so hot after lots of idle time it boiled the oil inside and ruptured a seal.

If your fan clutch is bad, and you find the replacements are $$$$ and poor quality like they are on the 603, you should have tons of space to install an electric fan. It's super tight on the 6 cyl. I did this, and used a BMW dual temperature switch screwed into the water neck on the head.

-J

 

[oilhammer]

Funny you mention the fan clutch, LOL. Pretty sure it's along for the ride at this point. And the previous owner stated he'd "had overheating problems", so he installed a switch on the dash, linked to some wiring under the hood, that tie into the condenser fan. The A/C evidently doesn't work anyway. Good thing it is winter, because not only does the A/C not work, and the fan clutch is dead, but the heat doesn't seem to come off hot. Did I mention the HVAC was a mess?

A new Behr/Hella fan clutch I can get for $190, which isn't too terrible I guess.

 

[compu_85]

Hopefully it lasts for you! After I replaced my fan clutch twice I gave up and converted to electric fans.

Be sure the new clutch is correct for the fanwheel, the ones for metal and plastic fanwheels are different (I don't know what fan the 4 cyl got).

 

[oilhammer]

Some of the 190D 4 cyl got an electronic controlled (via an electromagnetic clutch) fan, and some got a conventional bimetallic spring type clutch. I am pretty sure mine is the regular type, but maybe it isn't. I just know there is no resistance hardly at all on the fan, even after a long drive and shutting the car off. There are two types of fan shrouds, too. Mine looks to be the one piece.

The OEM fan clutch (which is still available, used on a lot of models) looks to be about $280. Then there are some questionable no-name ones as cheap as $50. I guess you get what you pay for?

 

[compu_85]

For sure. I can't remember the brands I bought, but each was north of 200, 10 years ago.

-J

 

[Steve Addy]

This must be an import, right? I don't think they ever sold them manual on this side of the pond.

IIRC they did sell the W201 NA diesel with MT in the US.

Fantastic find, not too many of those left around and the condition looks good to!

EDIT: there's a scrap yard not far from me with a 190D in it, no one bothers it because the hood is stuck closed, it's been there a while!

Steve

 

[Steve Addy]

Nice find!!

My SDL is getting closer to being back on the road. New head gasket is in, I've got new calipers waiting to go on (seals are leaking on the ones installed now).

The head gasket blew from the #1 cylinder into the oil gallery for the head. This pushed all the oil out of the lifters, my first sign something was wrong was the oil pressure gauge bouncing around at idle, and the lifters sounding like a box of rocks.

View attachment 141728
View attachment 141729

The upper timing chain guide pin put up a huge fight. I ended up drilling an access hole in the back side of the head to pound it out. I was hitting the drift hard enough sparks were coming off.

View attachment 141730

View attachment 141731

My 92 300SD is getting closer to the JY I think. I run it a few times a year but the glass was vandalized and it just has plastic and tape over the gaping hole in the windshield now.

It's really a heavy car though, but it needs glass and trans repair (reverse is gone) but I love it so it stays.

This is one of the cars that got a factory replacement 3.4L engine when the oil consumption went crazy...lol

Steve

 

[TDIMeister]

I must be a sucker for punishment, as I've added another M-B to our household after selling my longtime Audi A4 Avant TDI quattro. It's a 2013 R350 Bluetec, purchased at a tick over 180k km (112k miles), and joins its colour twin (obsidian black on beige) 2011 GL350 Bluetec:

 

[CanadianALH]

I must be a sucker for punishment, as I've added another M-B to our household after selling my longtime Audi A4 Avant TDI quattro. It's a 2013 R350 Bluetec, purchased at a tick over 180k km (112k miles), and joins its colour twin (obsidian black on beige) 2011 GL350 Bluetec:
View attachment 145003
View attachment 145005View attachment 145006View attachment 145007View attachment 145008View attachment 145009

I have really been enjoying driving my OM642 powered jeep. How have you found maintenance and up keep?

 

[UhOh]

Thank you to folks for keeping this thread alive. It reminded me that I need to announce my 2nd CDI restoration project is essentially completed:
https://www.benzworld.org/media/albums/saving-another-e320-cdi.27518/

I've put on nearly 19k miles on my first CDI post-restoration work (and really the only miles I have driven it) and it's been totally rock solid (after resolving a fueling issue- bad ground wire on the in-tank fuel pump) and it impresses me every time I drive it. This second car will be going to my wife: I've gone with a stock ride for it but with 17" wheels; put a lot of money and work into the body as it had been neglected and abused; the engine, however, is perfect @ 216k miles (about 1k miles more than my other car).

 

[PradoTDI]

This reminds me that I have a new (old) Mercedes since I last posted in this thread. I ended up selling the W115 300D in September '23, then this spring I picked up a 1977 W116 450SEL. It was essentially an estate sale, the title was still in the original owner's name. The car had been sitting since 2018, but with a new set of tires and a water pump it is now my daily driver. I've put 3500 miles on it so far this summer, and loved every minute of it. It is a nice car to drive around town, but it really shines on the open highway. 70mph is good, 80mph feels even better, and it would happily cruise at 90-100 if I let it (allegedly!).

There are a few things the car still needs: the AC compressor died, the steering box is loose, the cruise control module died and the Bosch K-Jetronic fuel injection system is a little finicky from sitting. Other than that everything works and the car feels incredibly solid still.

IMG_6972.jpeg

• PradoTDI
• Aug 14, 2025

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• PradoTDI
• Aug 14, 2025

5D259174.jpeg

• PradoTDI
• Aug 14, 2025

 

[TDIMeister]

I have really been enjoying driving my OM642 powered jeep. How have you found maintenance and up keep?

Aside from the dreaded but well-known oil leak right after buying the GL, the OM642 has been pretty good, only needing oil and filter changes. Knock on wood against any seizing that happens on some engines...

The Airmatic has been another story. It's on the second compressor now (speaking of the GL), and a warranty replacement from Rock Auto for the first compressor sits on the shelf waiting for whichever car needs its first. The rear air bags and valve block were recently replaced along with the second compressor. The bags had started to leak slowly over an extended period of time, increasing the duty cycle on the compressor and eventually burning it out. I'll take the blame for that.

As for the R, the rear bags have been replaced by the previous owner, and I found and promptly snatched up a great closeout deal on Rock Auto for front bags and rear ADS (active damping system) struts in case I need them down the road.

When everything works on these cars, they're absolute joys to drive, but the maintenance, upkeep, and repairs can be overwhelming. It's one of the costs of entry to own a Mercedes, I guess...

 

[TDIMeister]

The common engine and transmission, as well as interchangeability of many maintenance items between the X164 and V251 is one reason and justification for the purchase of the latter. Things like oil/air/cabin filters, even wiper blades, batteries, Airmatic compressor, headlight bulbs, etc., are the same.

 

[oilhammer]

My new job has exposed me to a lot of later model MB products, and I have to say I am not impressed. In fact, it is pretty sad just how abysmally awful they are. Had a 2021 GLB300 with the 2.0L turbo engine, only 66k miles, has leaking valves in the engine. It's so common, there is a TSB about it, and the dealers sell whole heads for them frequently. Seriously???

And another tech just did an evaporator core in a 2020 GLE, also evidently a common issue. Our lot is constantly full of broken 2000s+ MB products with a seemingly endless pile of constant Fails. Cooked ECUs, rear hatch motors, bad control arms, bad engine mounts... and on and on. Just a shame, it really is.

 

[TurboABA]

When everything works on these cars, they're absolute joys to drive, but the maintenance, upkeep, and repairs can be overwhelming.

Wait a second.... are you guys taking about MBs or Touaregs in here?

 

[TDIMeister]

Wait a second.... are you guys taking about MBs or Touaregs in here?

Most anything European, actually. Except the plebeian Euro brands like Citroën, Peugeot, Dacia, FIAT, etc. - they're simply never any joy to drive (to me anyway) LOL. Maybe I should be more specific to say anything German.

 

[UhOh]

ANYTHING with air suspension is going to need such components replaced eventually. None of my vehicles has this kind of suspension (though my truck has air bags which, of course, will eventually fail as well).

Post 2006 MB went cheaper on components. And then there's the initial cutting edge pains from both the 722.9 transmissions and the om642s (I cannot speak to the gasoline variants). The transmissions improved but it's questionable how much the om642s improved. Addition of DPFs and DEF systems make up a substantial chunk of the problems on these later vehicles (the oil cooler seats, yes, aware of all that): yes, fancy bells and whistles are just more things that entropy eventually claims.

When I got my first CDI it had 196k miles on it. EVERYTHING still worked, even the Dynamics seats (which are wonderful- I stiffened up the suspension on this car and like that the seats will hold me more firmly): I had a comm issue with one of the seat modules and I fixed that with a $100 used part and about 15 minutes of labor). Stereo amp started crapping out and I replaced that with a used one I had (from a complete parts car that I'd bought). Other than injector seals the om648 engines are as reliable as any more modern diesel: I buy engines/drivetrains, cars come with my selections/purchases [same as with all the ALH+5spd drivetrains I've bought- I just put up with the rest of the vehicles]! Fit and finish on these w211s is really pretty good and the materials are nice to deal with compared to VW MKIVs. This car is my daily driver and I am as confident in it getting me anywhere and back as I was with my ALH Golf (that car, now gone, WAS, however, the ultimate commuter vehicle- it served my needs perfectly; my CDIs are for retired life, more comfort).

My second CDI came with a panoramic roof, something that I was NOT wanting but I swallowed hard and ended up fixing it. Other than this everything in this car (which had been horribly abused) worked/works (even the Parktronics, heated steering wheel and four-zone climate control).

 

[TDIMeister]

Well, here's already a potential 722.9 problem...

So, my R should have a top-gear ratio of 0.73 and 2.92 final drive. Given the tire size, I calculate that the engine should be approximately 1550 RPM per 100 km/h (62 MPH). However, mine is about 250 RPM higher than this, and I'm sure I'm at 7th gear, plus it hunts a bit at steady cruise (say up to about +/- 25 RPM at 62 MPH). My understanding is that my torque converter lock-up clutch is slipping and/or that brake bands that activate 7th gear are slipping. There are no transmission-related codes, and the transmission oil temp reported from my Autel MD806 scanner seems normal.

I hate the idea that my engine revs are higher than they should be and I'm losing out on fuel mileage as a result LOL. The car drives fine otherwise.

Any ideas on how to fix this?

 

[TDIMeister]

... (from a complete parts car that I'd bought)...

What does it say when we have to resort to having a parts car or, in my case, preemptively stashing away expensive replacement parts we expect to go bad?

 

[UhOh]

What does it say when we have to resort to having a parts car or, in my case, preemptively stashing away expensive replacement parts we expect to go bad?

I bought a complete MKIV ALH Golf instead of a parts car. Used it as I restored my other two cars.

My CDI parts car was an insurance policy as I was buying my intended CDI based on only inspection notes/pictures. That turned out to be quite prudent because I ended up using the entire drivetrain and undercarriage out of the parts car for that car (the original engine's head got butchered by an idiot who couldn't stop digging at a stuck GP- the engine ran perfectly fine otherwise). I've used parts from that car not so much due to scarcity but because of convenience. Unlike VW MKIVs these W211 CDIs are pretty rare: even the gassers weren't produced in large numbers. I have only resorted to pulling an EGR valve off the spare engine (used in this second CDI), otherwise engine and transmission stuff isn't anything that requires I keep a bunch of parts around: I just haven't figured out what I want to do with the spare engine- I've kind of held it in reserve in case my truck mechanic breaks down and decides to get it from me- he's contemplating putting TWO om648s in his boat and then he's got a Jeep project that was also a possible receptacle for an om648.

 

[UhOh]

Well, here's already a potential 722.9 problem...

So, my R should have a top-gear ratio of 0.73 and 2.92 final drive. Given the tire size, I calculate that the engine should be approximately 1550 RPM per 100 km/h (62 MPH). However, mine is about 250 RPM higher than this, and I'm sure I'm at 7th gear, plus it hunts a bit at steady cruise (say up to about +/- 25 RPM at 62 MPH). My understanding is that my torque converter lock-up clutch is slipping and/or that brake bands that activate 7th gear are slipping. There are no transmission-related codes, and the transmission oil temp reported from my Autel MD806 scanner seems normal.

I hate the idea that my engine revs are higher than they should be and I'm losing out on fuel mileage as a result LOL. The car drives fine otherwise.

Any ideas on how to fix this?

722.9s are totally alien to me Sounds like some sort of speed sensor problem and or the conductor plate? Here's some info that might help:

https://www.atsg.us/atsg/skin/frontend/default/atsg/corrections/2011%20blue%20722-9.pdf

Mercedes-Benz 722.9 Conductor Plate TCM Repair

We rebuild Mercedes 722.9 Conductor Plates for 2004 and newer mechatronics 7G Tronic transmissions. There is NO NEED FOR ANY PROGRAMMING or SCN coding.

circuitboardmedics.com

Without codes, however, it's almost impossible to really figure this out w/o doing some comprehensive data logging/monitoring.

Do you have any service history for this transmission?

 

[TDIMeister]

Do you have any service history for this transmission?

As reported by Carfax.




Dunderheads used red ATF when it should be the blue stuff . Don't mind the water and particles - I looked for anything around me in a pinch to get a small sample from the drain plug, hence the coffee cup cover... Nevertheless, the fluid looks pretty bad, considering it was claimed to have been changed only about 6,000 miles ago.


So, I'll be planning a thorough drain and replacement with blue ATF 134FE, and while I'm in there, I'll replace the VGS with a known proper one and keep the existing one as a spare.

Oh, I also noticed that some previous owner installed what appears to be a non-OEM transmission fluid cooler. Picture to follow.

And lastly, my car indeed has a 3.45 final drive instead of 2.92 (like apparently all NA diesel R's), so the RPM is correct. My scan tool nevertheless shows a varying slip of around 60 RPM at the TC lock-up clutch at steady cruise.

 

[UhOh]

Yup, WRONG fluid used. This change happened in 2010 in which case this shop can't use the excuse that it was a mid-year change or some such. Maybe the cooler was installed due to problems introduced by the wrong fluid?

Have to wonder whether the bulk of problems aren't caused by crappy mechanics.

Good info here:

Mercedes-Benz 7-Speed Transmission (722.9) Service Walkthrough

To ensure long life and peace of mind in your seven-speed (722.9) Mercedes-Benz automatic transmission, periodic service is a must. Many manufacturers, including Mercedes, claim that their transmission fluid is for life, but that's simply not the case. Instead, follow this service procedure to...

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[burpod]

oops..... last week ended up buying an (excellent, but not perfect) condition 1984 300SD diesel sedan. got one test drive in and now the turbo/intake is off, mocking up an fmic, and a good condition used 2.47 full rear diff + axle assembly onthe way.... lol. needless to say "the wife" isn't super pleased about yet another major project car int he driveway. but at least being an automatic, she'll be able to drive this one. just needs a "little bit" of work first, just some basics... hahahaha super cool car. i feel like i got a very good deal on it.... quite clean.

 

[burpod]

pic here......