TDI Used Oil Lab Analyses Results & Discussions

Mozambiquer

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Mar 21, 2015
Location
Versailles Missouri
TDI
1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Sodium is indicative of coolant as well as potassium. 95 ppm sodium, elevated viscosity and water could indicate coolant migration into the engine oil.

Overall it looks pretty bad, however it’s just one data point. You could tear down the engine and do a rebuild, or just keep driving it and re-sample at a shorter interval 3-5k and see what it says. Could be a sample mix-up at the lab too. Can’t tell exactly with just one sample data point. Monitor the coolant level and see if it drops over the next few months.
This one, thankfully, isn't my car. It's one that came into the shop here with a ripped up timing belt. It still has the balance shaft module at 200k miles! 😱
Customer declined further repairs, just timing belt and components. Surprisingly it ran well, even though timing was way off! They didn't want us to pull the head and check it or anything, but a new belt and all fixed that part
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2014
Location
yes
TDI
2011 Jetta Sportwagen, 6M, red/tan, navi, pano, 83 5m diesel pickup, 82 p/u trailer,.04 5.5 TDI Passat wagon (gone), 80,81,82 diesel p/u (gone), 80,82 sportruck (gone), 59 passthru bus (long gone), 79&87 westy (gone), 57 baja bug (long gone), 73 914
O.k. I have 2 oil samples. 10x30 VW 507 2011 JSW 2.0 cjaa 6m
sample 1 - 7k on original purchase oil (CPO) FWTW 69k-76k
sample 2 - 3.5k on dealer 507 + 1/4 can of lubri moly (I screwed up, meant to go 5K)76k-79.5k

Any wisdom on the high iron? fuel pump wear?

 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT
Your name and PO box is visible on one of the reports. Might want to edit that out in MS paint.

These engines shed iron. I had a magnetic drain plug in my CBEA 2009 jetta and it was COVERED in Ferrous metal at each oil change. Gritty chunks it was gnarly. Never seen anything like it in a healthy car that ran great until I sold it back for buyback in 2018. I used LM top tech 4200 religously w/ a can of LM 2009 every 7-8K however now I take a different approach.

I believe the iron is from the regen cycle as it washes the oil off of the cylinder walls. That is my theory anyway. If you see a UOA of a deleted 2.0 TDI the iron wear is very low, like 1/10 of what you see here.

The fuel dilution of 3.5% in your first sample is also a problem. Never saw that in my '09, fuel was always low and viscosity was healthy. Blackstone does not accurately measure FD or soot, one of their major shortcomings. Order Oil Analyzer kits from Amsoil, they have all the basic data points you want to see which are missing from this report.

Get a neodium magnet drain plug. Dimple, Gold Plug or Powerslutracing.com. You need to sequester that iron and hold it to keep it from causing more wear as it circulates.

Use a thicker oil. I suggest 10w30 or even 5w40. This would be a non VW507 oil, CJ-4 or CK-4 with a higher HTHS to prevent the oil film from washing off and excessive wear. In a healthy engine that doesn't burn oil, the additional ash from using CJ-4 doesn't have a significant impact on DPF longevity.
 

Dannyboy

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2013
Location
Mb
TDI
2014
After an upwards trend of wear metals increasing on my oil sample results on my 2014 I decided to investigate before problems started. My last sample came back unusually high for iron and aluminum for oil that had 3500 kms on it.
Ignore the mileage, cat oil techs aren't the most vigilant even on the best of days.



December 2018 my oil heat exchanger seal between the filter housing and exchanger started to leak, found the large exchanger cap was loose, tightened it to 30NM. No problem until couple months later when it started to leak again. I ordered a set of seals and replaced them by dropping the exchanger and carefully installing seals. Old seal had a crack in it. torqued to 30NM



No problems except for oil results coming back high, then this week I decided to check vehicle over before going on a long road trip. and was met by this again....

Leaking again from the top seal. I was starting to get annoyed as i'd only changed it 2 years before. Lucky I had a spare set of O rings for the job and on removing was met with this....




and

The internal heat exchanger fins have been rubbing on the shaft, the three grooves don't look bad but there is quite bit of rub through. I camera scoped the exchanger and it looked fine. It seems the oil exchanger has been vibrating loose and rubbing against the cap oil shaft and cap itself was introducing wear metal due to metal on metal.

Cleaned everything, lubed seals and installed, made sure the exchanger was resting against the location tang, reinstalled cap and torqued to 30 NM. Ran vehicle for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm to get oil up to full temp.


Came back and its leaking again. This time i find the cap has somehow loosened so I once more torque it up to 30NM. cleaned off and run for another 20 minutes. This time no leaks. Obviously engine vibration had shifted the o ring on top and moved again. Still cant understand how it came loose in the first place, its never been touched since it left the factory, factory o rings have location slots so they cant move.

I know this a long post but it may help someone with information and i'd prefer to share how something simple brought on issues that could have ended badly. And also to double check the repair, even though its been correctly torqued.
Hopefully the next couple of oil sample results will be better!!
 

ruSSrt

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2018
Location
Seattle WA
TDI
2001
2005 VW Passat TDi with 200xxx miles on.
Up until 180xxx miles was maintained by Dealer/VW shop that put only VW specified oil. As soon as i got it i changed to Rotella t6.

I not sure if I haven't specified clear enough or they messed up but for some reason they tested it as Gasoline oil. Not sure if that makes difference.

This one was a short oil change. I used some LM 2020 Stop leak to help with some oil leaks. But also that was oil change right after my EGR got removed, thought behind it was to "flush/clean" what ever gunk is there from EGR. My next analysis will be at 5k miles.
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT
High fuel dilution @ 8%. This car has a bad thermostat which I found by watching coolant temp PIDs with my Maestro equipped pioneer receiver. It was also doing excessive DPF regenerations every 180 miles. I think the excess fuel and regenerations is from the low coolant temps causing the ECU to run in open loop. This car has no stored or active codes. None at all. No other diagnostic work has been done yet.

If anybody has another theory of what is happening here, chime in. The backstory in the car is below:

I got this low mileage Jetta sportwagen in April 2020 when covid-19 was in full swing. It was really cheap, the original owner who was in his ‘80s died in 2018 and it had been sitting for about 1 year. Rodents did some damage to the wiring which was repaired by the dealership.

I bought it with 46k miles for $6800 from the attorney managing the estate. It was about 200 miles away, however I contacted him first and he held it for a few days. It is a 6 speed manual without a sunroof (VW sunroofs can have issues) which is what I was looking for. It was in VG condition with a couple body imperfections. It was a major PITA to get this thing titled in my name as the DMV was shut down.

This is the first UOA, I haven’t driven it much because I could tell it had some issues. It’s down now, getting a bunch of work done including a CR170 Turbo, sport suspension including Eibach coil-overs, new Sachs SRE clutch/timing belt/fluidamper/accessory belt/WP etc... to much to list here.

I added the lightweight wheels and Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4 tires in 235/45R17. I also had the maestro equipped pioneer avic-w8500-Nex receiver and pioneer backup camera installed


 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT
2006 Jetta TDI 5MT 96K- 5,000 mi OCI after camshaft replacement - Pentosin HP 2 5w40

This is my mom's new car. Her excellent condition, Malone stage II 2003 Jetta was wrecked in LA last month. I'm on short term disability with a broken foot from this accident. We luckily found this 2006 a few weeks later as a replacement.

This car is a low mileage BRM and was very expensive, but it is upgraded and in excellent condition. Given the high cost of used cars these days, I suppose it is worth it. I suspect the owner we bought it from, is or was a member of TDIclub.com. It was advertised on craigslist SF bay area.

Major work done by the previous owner about 5k miles ago:

@Franko6 Hard Chromed Replacement camshaft kit, stock profile w/ modified bearings.
Luk Repset DMF/Clutch kit
Frank06 modified EGR cooler
New top end valve and PD injector seals
Malone stage II tune
Taller 5th gear, 2000 RPM @ 70 mph now. New Gear oil
Full timing belt and accessory belt replacements with all new components.
Intake manifold cleaning
VW RCD330 Receiver

The bearing metals I believe are from the break in on the new Franko6 camshaft kit. Maybe Pentosin HP II or any C3 type 5w40 does not have enough HTHS for a tuned BRM engine. Either that or this car may have some bottom end issues.

Runs nice otherwise. If anyone has another idea reply below

Refilled with RLI Biosyn HD 10w40 CJ-4, HTHS on this is about 4.4 cP.

edited to add: spelled @Franko6 with a zero instead of an “oh” o.

 
Last edited:

erykkuld

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Location
Norway
TDI
Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
After an upwards trend of wear metals increasing on my oil sample results on my 2014 I decided to investigate before problems started. My last sample came back unusually high for iron and aluminum for oil that had 3500 kms on it.
Ignore the mileage, cat oil techs aren't the most vigilant even on the best of days.



December 2018 my oil heat exchanger seal between the filter housing and exchanger started to leak, found the large exchanger cap was loose, tightened it to 30NM. No problem until couple months later when it started to leak again. I ordered a set of seals and replaced them by dropping the exchanger and carefully installing seals. Old seal had a crack in it. torqued to 30NM



No problems except for oil results coming back high, then this week I decided to check vehicle over before going on a long road trip. and was met by this again....

Leaking again from the top seal. I was starting to get annoyed as i'd only changed it 2 years before. Lucky I had a spare set of O rings for the job and on removing was met with this....




and

The internal heat exchanger fins have been rubbing on the shaft, the three grooves don't look bad but there is quite bit of rub through. I camera scoped the exchanger and it looked fine. It seems the oil exchanger has been vibrating loose and rubbing against the cap oil shaft and cap itself was introducing wear metal due to metal on metal.

Cleaned everything, lubed seals and installed, made sure the exchanger was resting against the location tang, reinstalled cap and torqued to 30 NM. Ran vehicle for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm to get oil up to full temp.


Came back and its leaking again. This time i find the cap has somehow loosened so I once more torque it up to 30NM. cleaned off and run for another 20 minutes. This time no leaks. Obviously engine vibration had shifted the o ring on top and moved again. Still cant understand how it came loose in the first place, its never been touched since it left the factory, factory o rings have location slots so they cant move.

I know this a long post but it may help someone with information and i'd prefer to share how something simple brought on issues that could have ended badly. And also to double check the repair, even though its been correctly torqued.
Hopefully the next couple of oil sample results will be better!!
**** have done this job myself, didn't notice any metal flakes or glitter like you have. But mine was leaking a year ago so i changed the bottom and top seal, there is oil there again, so seems like i have to go and replace the seals again like you have. So annoying seing something you thought you fixed leak back, any tips on how to stop it from leaking completely?
 

Dannyboy

Veteran Member
Joined
May 25, 2013
Location
Mb
TDI
2014
**** have done this job myself, didn't notice any metal flakes or glitter like you have. But mine was leaking a year ago so i changed the bottom and top seal, there is oil there again, so seems like i have to go and replace the seals again like you have. So annoying seing something you thought you fixed leak back, any tips on how to stop it from leaking completely?
Mine literally started leaking again for the 3rd time in 4 years last week, only happens when the temperature drops below -32c. I might put a new oil cooler in there as its getting irritating and feeling that either housing is warpped or oil cooler is.Granted it's only dripping but it bugs the hell out of me...
 

erykkuld

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2020
Location
Norway
TDI
Golf mk4 1.9L 4motion 115hp AJM
Mine literally started leaking again for the 3rd time in 4 years last week, only happens when the temperature drops below -32c. I might put a new oil cooler in there as its getting irritating and feeling that either housing is warpped or oil cooler is.Granted it's only dripping but it bugs the hell out of me...
Yeah i freaking agree on this one! And since you say it, i have only noticed it leaking around this time of year too, when its quite cold (live in norway) Because the same thing happend last year! Damn you just made me realize. Will update on this thread if i get around to a new cooler. Or maybe a type of upgrade, because i have seen those radiator looking oil coolers, if im not mistaken they come on some gti's
 
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