TDI Used Oil Lab Analyses Results & Discussions

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
New to me '03 Golf TDI. Got it about a month ago from the 2nd owner and 167K miles. Really like it, however it's too small. I'd prefer a Jetta or Wagon instead.

47 MPGs average combined hand calculated on 2 fill ups.

Needed an Oil Change and Fuel Filter. I also replaced the fuel supply/return lines from the filter to the IP as they were showing their age. Other than that it is very clean and well maintained vehicle.

Engine is basically stock except a Malone Stage 2 tune and Bosio PP520 nozzles.

The PO has reduced EGR flow using adaption function in VCDS.

Report says D1 ESP however it's M1 TDT, CJ-4 version. Surprisingly this is the same wear profile I've seen when using D1 in my 2.8 Duramax. Overall the wear report is really good considering the EGR system is functional. Hard to believe, really... I took the sample mid-drain.
Re-filled with RLI Biosyn CJ-4, it's a 50/50 blend of 10w30 and 15w40 + 2% Booster pak = 10w40. Replaced the Mann with a Bosch Premium filter. I don't think RLI can outdo ESP or TDT but we shall see...

 
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James & Son

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Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Location
Maryhill, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2006 Jetta
CleverUserName,
If you are trying to reduce or beat the TDT UOA you could probably easily do it with Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN). To reduce iron wear you need the 185 VI which is attained without exccessive use of VI index modifying polymers which improves HTHS and flash point.

Thats likely what you were after with your combination and mix. But you lose out on the benefit of increased flow and reduced wear at startup. The other benefit at start up of all RLI products is the improved boundary or lubricity during start up and shut down.

The difference between Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN) and the low ash version is a reduction in the amount of antiwear and TBN to attain the latters low ash( equal to CJ4). The advantage of the former( equal to a CJI) is you have the additional additives already and unnecessary use the 2% adder pack.

Just in case your interested I use the low ash 5w-40 and drive one year or 15000 miles, at month (6) I add 2% and then at month (9) I add another 2% in hope that I retain the CJ4 low ash qualitys without deminished wear additives.

I would expect with your '03 you would likely get to 15000 miles with no additives using the Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN).

One of the reasons you can run the RLI out passed 10,000 miles is its tolerance for diesel fuel dilution.
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
CleverUserName,
If you are trying to reduce or beat the TDT UOA you could probably easily do it with Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN). To reduce iron wear you need the 185 VI which is attained without exccessive use of VI index modifying polymers which improves HTHS and flash point.
Thats likely what you were after with your combination and mix. But you lose out on the benefit of increased flow and reduced wear at startup. The other benefit at start up of all RLI products is the improved boundary or lubricity during start up and shut down.
The difference between Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN) and the low ash version is a reduction in the amount of antiwear and TBN to attain the latters low ash( equal to CJ4). The advantage of the former( equal to a CJI) is you have the additional additives already and unnecessary use the 2% adder pack.
Just in case your interested I use the low ash 5w-40 and drive one year or 15000 miles, at month (6) I add 2% and then at month (9) I add another 2% in hope that I retain the CJ4 low ash qualitys without deminished wear additives.
I would expect with your '03 you would likely get to 15000 miles with no additives using the Bio-SynXtra HD SHP Motor Oil SAE 5W40 (10 TBN).
One of the reasons you can run the RLI out passed 10,000 miles is its tolerance for diesel fuel dilution.
Hi, James & Son.

I had two bottles of the booster pak which were ordered about a year ago. I am just using them up, 1/2 bottle (4oz) in my Golf and 2.8 Duramax at each OCI. I do not plan on buying anymore booster pak.

I created this mix of 10w30 & 15w40 because I got a bunch of the 10w30 CJ-4 for cheap and wanted to thicken it up a little. The 15w40 has great properties (Low NOACK, High VI, and High FP) so it seemed like the best option.

I had this "10w40" blend tested by Oil Analyzers, it is a "thin" 40wt and it has a VI of 172.

  1. 78.8 cSt @ 40c
  2. 13.3 cSt @ 100c
  3. NOACK 8.5% (11% + 6%/2 = 8.5%)
  4. 526 ppm of Sb
  5. ~1100 ppm of Phosphourus

As you can see it has superior cold flow (40c) properties at the mild temperatures we see here in CA. I don't need a low winter rating so 10w, 15w and even SAE 30 are fine here.

These higher winter rating blends use thicker base oils so the flash points are typically higher than a 5w.

I'm staying with the low-ash versions because I'm also using this in my 2.8 Duramax equipped with emissions controls. The 10 TBN CI-4+ version of the 5w40 is excessive SA. I also would be changing the oil once a year anyway so I don't really need to exceed a 10k mile interval as I have two vehicles. CJ-4 is fine for me.

I would also like to mix the 15w40 with the SAE 30 next as that would be even a lower NOACK (6.5%) and higher flash point. That is the next thing I will try if the Oil Analysis results are better than what I've seen with TDT and D1 ESP CJ-4 versions.

I'm attaching a copy of the OAI report for your reference:

 

Mike in Anchorage

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TDI
2016 Touareg Lux, 2015 Golf Sportwagen SE, new 4 Sept 2017;2009 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagen (Ruby) sold to VW on 22 SEP 2017

TornadoRed

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver
Why would the molybdenum values change so dramatically? That would concern me more than the sodium, I would think.
Molybdenum is an anti-friction additive. Some motor oils have a lot of it, some have a little, and some have none. Also, for those who want more, there is this>>>
 

James & Son

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Location
Maryhill, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2006 Jetta
Hi, James & Son.
I had two bottles of the booster pak which were ordered about a year ago. I am just using them up, 1/2 bottle (4oz) in my Golf and 2.8 Duramax at each OCI. I do not plan on buying anymore booster pak.
I created this mix of 10w30 & 15w40 because I got a bunch of the 10w30 CJ-4 for cheap and wanted to thicken it up a little. The 15w40 has great properties (Low NOACK, High VI, and High FP) so it seemed like the best option.
I had this "10w40" blend tested by Oil Analyzers, it is a "thin" 40wt and it has a VI of 172.
  1. 78.8 cSt @ 40c
  2. 13.3 cSt @ 100c
  3. NOACK 8.5% (11% + 6%/2 = 8.5%)
  4. 526 ppm of Sb
  5. ~1100 ppm of Phosphourus
As you can see it has superior cold flow (40c) properties at the mild temperatures we see here in CA. I don't need a low winter rating so 10w, 15w and even SAE 30 are fine here.
These higher winter rating blends use thicker base oils so the flash points are typically higher than a 5w.
I'm staying with the low-ash versions because I'm also using this in my 2.8 Duramax equipped with emissions controls. The 10 TBN CI-4+ version of the 5w40 is excessive SA. I also would be changing the oil once a year anyway so I don't really need to exceed a 10k mile interval as I have two vehicles. CJ-4 is fine for me.
I would also like to mix the 15w40 with the SAE 30 next as that would be even a lower NOACK (6.5%) and higher flash point. That is the next thing I will try if the Oil Analysis results are better than what I've seen with TDT and D1 ESP CJ-4 versions.
I'm attaching a copy of the OAI report for your reference:
Looking forward to those results. Your anti-wear numbers, antimony and phosphorous together are 170% more than TDT's phosphorous. This along with the natural
esters your iron wear should drop. If your engines are in good shape I would reduce the Sb to 2 ounces unless the duramax needs it for some reason. The 30% natural esters help the lubricity due to their affinity for steel surfaces.
 
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CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
First time ever for a UOA for me on any of my cars.
https://imgur.com/a/UDsox8R
I think this is the first UOA I’ve seen on the CK-4 version of T6 being used on a flat tappet 1.9.

Notice the lower concentration of ZDDP. Old CJ-4 T6 was around 1200 ppm.

Molybdenum is gone as well. Different ratios of mg & ca.

Viscosity is in a 50 wt now due to soot or oxidation. More comprehensive testing could find out why it thickened up 2 cSt.

TBN is kinda low too.

Based on TBN retention in my prior UOAs using CJ-4 Mobil TDT and Delvac ESP in multiple diesels, I think both would easily last 20k miles. I don’t think this new T6 would hold up much longer than 12k based on this report in this vehicle.

Wear numbers are OK but generally not very impressive. UOAs with T6 have never blown my socks off.
 

TornadoRed

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Joined
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Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver
Based on TBN retention in my prior UOAs using CJ-4 Mobil TDT and Delvac ESP in multiple diesels, I think both would easily last 20k miles. I don’t think this new T6 would hold up much longer than 12k based on this report in this vehicle.
Wear numbers are OK but generally not very impressive. UOAs with T6 have never blown my socks off.
And that's fine for most ALH and PD drivers, who tend to stick with 10k-mile oil change intervals. Even with TDT and Delvac 1.
 

tdiman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2000
Location
bridgeport wv
TDI
jetta 2015 sel grey / black interior
TDI Used Oil Lab Analyses Results & Discussions

Just trying to figure out how to post results how are you up loading


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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TornadoRed

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver
Just trying to figure out how to post results how are you uploading?
The easiest way is to save or convert the image to a JPEG. Then click on "Photos" in the forum menu bar and log in to http://pics.tdiclub.com; you have to log in again with your forum password. Upload your file there, then link to that photo/file when you want to share it. (Sharing a PDF file doesn't work very well.)

For a guy who's been a TDI Club member for over 18 years, member #2388, you should have been able to figure this out. :) But it looks like you've owned many TDIs and perhaps they were mostly trouble-free, so you didn't have reasons to come here very often?
 

tdiman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2000
Location
bridgeport wv
TDI
jetta 2015 sel grey / black interior
TDI Used Oil Lab Analyses Results & Discussions

Lol I don’t think I have ever posted a pic here. uploaded pic in photos in forum can not fiquire how to link it back to show up in forum why is this so painfull have never seen a sight so hard to put a pic up must be old school needs updated not user friendly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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TornadoRed

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2003
Location
Saint Paul (ex-San Diego)
TDI
2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red; 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (SOLD); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver
Lol I don’t think I have ever posted a pic here. uploaded pic in photos in forum cannot figure how to link it back to show up in forum why is this so painful have never seen a sight so hard to put a pic up must be old school needs updated not user friendly
Almost any photo-hosting site will work; TDI Club's photo-hosting is not the simplest but it eventually works.
 

codyayrton

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Joined
Jun 16, 2014
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDI 6M (sold to VW), 2015 Golf S Sportwagen TDI 6M
[/url][/IMG]

First oil analysis on this TDI. 30,000 miles.
 
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a57oval

Active member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
washington
TDI
03 5 speed wagon
03 ALH: Elevated Chrome, Iron, and Viscosity, Why?

Hello all,
Enclosed is my oil report for my 03 TDI wagon, 168,000 miles and the car was serviced by the dealer for the first 100,000 miles. Since my purchase of the car at 100,000 miles it has been religiously serviced on time, using Mann filters, Shell Rotella T6 for the past 68,000 miles, Lubro Moly diesel purge done every 20,000 miles. Intake cleaned at 100,000 miles then again at 156,000 due to being clogged again (why is this? I thought the ULSD eliminated this issue).
The person I purchased the car from ordered it new and stated it had gotten progressively worse fuel mileage, started at 50 mpg when new and ending at around 43. I have averaged 43 over the past 68,000 miles. Car runs great, consumes 1/2 quart of oil per 10,000 miles, and has no driveability issues.
As you can see via the report my chrome, iron, and viscosity numbers are too high.
After reading the entire thread I am confused and could use some help. My primary concern is fixing the issue that is causing these elevated numbers. In fixing those issues I hope to fix my fuel economy issue.
Thank you for any help you can provide,
Peter
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
Hello all,
Enclosed is my oil report for my 03 TDI wagon, 168,000 miles and the car was serviced by the dealer for the first 100,000 miles. Since my purchase of the car at 100,000 miles it has been religiously serviced on time, using Mann filters, Shell Rotella T6 for the past 68,000 miles, Lubro Moly diesel purge done every 20,000 miles. Intake cleaned at 100,000 miles then again at 156,000 due to being clogged again (why is this? I thought the ULSD eliminated this issue).
The person I purchased the car from ordered it new and stated it had gotten progressively worse fuel mileage, started at 50 mpg when new and ending at around 43. I have averaged 43 over the past 68,000 miles. Car runs great, consumes 1/2 quart of oil per 10,000 miles, and has no driveability issues.
As you can see via the report my chrome, iron, and viscosity numbers are too high.
After reading the entire thread I am confused and could use some help. My primary concern is fixing the issue that is causing these elevated numbers. In fixing those issues I hope to fix my fuel economy issue.
Thank you for any help you can provide,
Peter
Blackstone doesn’t measure soot, all you get from them is a value for insoluables which is quite low @ 0.3%. I don’t see how they can say with any confidence that it’s “sooty” ?

There is excessive wear, including soft metal wear from the bearings. Excessive viscosity can contribute to high wear but not may be the sole cause of it.

The oil has thickened to a 50 wt. Oil Thickening in diesels is usually caused by high soot and oil oxidation due to aging. Blackstone doesn’t measure oxidation and TBN wasn’t done so age related thickening can’t be ruled out. Thickening can also be caused by coolant contamination, however blackstone didn’t find any evidence of antifreeze.

It sounds like you may have a combustion issue based on having the intake cleaned so frequently. This needs to be resolved to rule out soot related thickening.

You may want to try the following:

Check EGR valve function. Make sure it’s not stuck open.
Check injector balance.

If those ^^^ above pass then consider doing the following:

Reduce EGR flow to minimum using adaptation in VCDS.
Try using higher quality fuel and adding a combustion improver/catalyst that raises cetane to 50.
Injector replacement. OEM or upgrade to PP357 or DLC 520 w/ balancing.

Try using a different oil. M1 TDT gives better results than T6 and similarly priced. You can also try one of the Amsoil diesel oils which are also excellent. There are also quality oils from Renewable Lubricants, Ravenol, Kendall and Schaeffer.

Use a different oil analysis company that provides Soot, Oxidation, and TBN values. I recommend Oil Analyzers prepaid kit which is $35.

That’s all I can think of. I would do this immeadiately because those metal numbers in all your previous samples are much higher than normal.
 

turbobrick240

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Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
The problem is not the oil. Countless UOA reports have proved out the very effective lubrication RT6 provides in tdi's. I'd say the problem is in the egr or fuel injection systems.

[ #8
TooSlick
Veteran Member

Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Dixie
TDI(s): Audi 100S
Default
The CJ-4 oils provide the best performance based on many years of comparative oil analysis testing on this site and CK-4 represents a significant upgrade in performance over that, based on tightly controlled, API engine sequence testing. So you can predict with a very high level of confidence that CK-4 oils will hold up the best and provide optimum protection from wear/deposits, very low oil consumption and good fuel efficiency (in the case of the 5w-30 grades).

TS
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CleverUserName

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NorCal
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2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
Actually with the limited information provided by blackstone, the report does indicate a problem with the lubricant as the insolubles were low and there was no coolant contamination.

T6 was reformulated as CK-4/SN in 2017. There is only one sample report on here from the current formula and it also showed early thickening and premature TBN loss at 10k miles in a 1.9 TDI.




The problem is not the oil. Countless UOA reports have proved out the very effective lubrication RT6 provides in tdi's. I'd say the problem is in the egr or fuel injection systems.
[ #8
TooSlick
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Dixie
TDI(s): Audi 100S
Default
The CJ-4 oils provide the best performance based on many years of comparative oil analysis testing on this site and CK-4 represents a significant upgrade in performance over that, based on tightly controlled, API engine sequence testing. So you can predict with a very high level of confidence that CK-4 oils will hold up the best and provide optimum protection from wear/deposits, very low oil consumption and good fuel efficiency (in the case of the 5w-30 grades).
TS
TooSlick is offline Reply With Quote
ReplyQUOTE]
 

turbobrick240

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Joined
Nov 18, 2014
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maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
Well, that one report shows better than average wear numbers.... Blackstone mentions soot as the likely cause of thickening there too. At 350k miles the injector spray patterns are probably less than perfect- assuming they are original.
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
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Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
Well, that one report shows better than average wear numbers.... Blackstone mentions soot as the likely cause of thickening there too. At 350k miles the injector spray patterns are probably less than perfect- assuming they are original.
Blackstone doesn’t measure soot with IR. They only measure insoluables which is soot + other suspended solids. 0.3% is the value for both reports and is completely normal. Their commentary is worthless and this is a prime example why.

The Spray pattern of the injectors is questionable, however the oil sample itself doesn’t show any evidence of soot related thickening. I would guess the oil thickened in both samples due to oxidation. The new T6 doesn’t appear to be suitable for the ALH at a 10k interval which is why I recommended Mr. A57oval try something else in 5w40 in addition to finding the cause of his intake plugging up.

Here is my last report using M1 TDT CJ-4. It held up much better without any oxidative thickening and 1/2 the wear metals. Also notice the soot was measured by IR at the same 0.3%.

 

a57oval

Active member
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Location
washington
TDI
03 5 speed wagon
Thank you for taking the time to help me with this issue.
CLeverUserName,
Based on what your saying I should be checking EGR function and Injector balance. I failed to mention that I had to replace my EGR valve because it started to weep soot out of it after I cleaned it the first time so I wouldn't think that would be the issue. However I should read up on how the EGR functions, what controls it, and how to verify the system. I have a VCDS cable but am very ignorant in how to use it. Time to learn.
I will also look up "Injector balance" learn about that system, and how use VCDS to test it.
A question for you; You mentioned that Shell reformulated their T6 in 2017. Based on my previous oil reports dated before 2017 would it be fair to eliminate the Shell as the issue? My number seem to be pretty crappy both before and after 2017.
Fuel: I try to buy diesel from high volume stores locally and put Silver bottle Power Service in at every fill. About 4 ounces. I use the white bottle when its below freezing but that is very rare around Seattle.
Turbobrick 240:
What would be to first thing to check? Injectors and EGR function as CleverUserName suggested? Or do you think I should be looking elsewhere?
CleverUserName: You said;
"The Spray pattern of the injectors is questionable, however the oil sample itself doesn’t show any evidence of soot related thickening. I would guess the oil thickened in both samples due to oxidation. The new T6 doesn’t appear to be suitable for the ALH at a 10k interval which is why I recommended Mr. A57oval try something else in 5w40 in addition to finding the cause of his intake plugging up."
Is the plugging up of the intake related to oil quality? Maybe I should do this injector balance check and then have the injectors cleaned and balanced?
Can you recommend a company that does this? Do you think this would be necessary at 168,000 miles?
Sorry for all of the seemingly stupid questions. Truth is I am not fluid in this sort of problem. I got some lurnin' to do.
Thanks for everyone's input. Keep it coming.
Peter
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
If the oil was suffering from oxidation, the TBN would be depleted. Blackstone uses a centrifuge to measure insolubles, and soot will conglomerate on the sides of the test tube, thus not giving an accurate measure of the soot load.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1591757
That’s not always true. Antioxidants prevent oxidation and detergents/dispersants (mg and ca) maintain alkalinity. Two different chemistries with different ingredients. If the formula was imbalanced I think you could see thickening while TBN was still positive. From my own experience, I have a sample that TBN was nearly depleted and the oil still stayed in grade (5w30).

Blackstone uses a centrifuge and test tube to measure TOTAL insoluables, meaning soot is supposed to be included in the number.

And remember the other report I posted with T6 also showed similar thickening, however blackstone said the everything as fine, Engine was healthy and insoluables read 0.3%. The only similarity between both cars is the oil.

Also to add one more thing. I have NEVER seen any conclusive soot related thickening with ULSD w/ a conservative diesel OCI of 10k Miles. Not on any forums or tests I had run for my personal vehicles.
 

turbobrick240

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Location
maine
TDI
2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
I don't think the Shell oil quality is the problem. But since that is such an easy change to make, I suppose it is worth trying.
 

CleverUserName

Veteran Member
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Oct 25, 2014
Location
NorCal
TDI
2014 OZ Cruze CTD & 2010 JSW 6MT & 2017 GMC Canyon CCLB ATX 2.8 Duramax
Thank you for taking the time to help me with this issue.
CLeverUserName,
Based on what your saying I should be checking EGR function and Injector balance. I failed to mention that I had to replace my EGR valve because it started to weep soot out of it after I cleaned it the first time so I wouldn't think that would be the issue. However I should read up on how the EGR functions, what controls it, and how to verify the system. I have a VCDS cable but am very ignorant in how to use it. Time to learn.

I will also look up "Injector balance" learn about that system, and how use VCDS to test it.
A question for you; You mentioned that Shell reformulated their T6 in 2017. Based on my previous oil reports dated before 2017 would it be fair to eliminate the Shell as the issue? My number seem to be pretty crappy both before and after 2017.
Fuel: I try to buy diesel from high volume stores locally and put Silver bottle Power Service in at every fill. About 4 ounces. I use the white bottle when its below freezing but that is very rare around Seattle.
Turbobrick 240:
What would be to first thing to check? Injectors and EGR function as CleverUserName suggested? Or do you think I should be looking elsewhere?
CleverUserName: You said;
"The Spray pattern of the injectors is questionable, however the oil sample itself doesn’t show any evidence of soot related thickening. I would guess the oil thickened in both samples due to oxidation. The new T6 doesn’t appear to be suitable for the ALH at a 10k interval which is why I recommended Mr. A57oval try something else in 5w40 in addition to finding the cause of his intake plugging up."
Is the plugging up of the intake related to oil quality? Maybe I should do this injector balance check and then have the injectors cleaned and balanced?
Can you recommend a company that does this? Do you think this would be necessary at 168,000 miles?

Sorry for all of the seemingly stupid questions. Truth is I am not fluid in this sort of problem. I got some lurnin' to do.
Thanks for everyone's input. Keep it coming.
Peter
CLeverUserName,
Based on what your saying I should be checking EGR function and Injector balance. I failed to mention that I had to replace my EGR valve because it started to weep soot out of it after I cleaned it the first time so I wouldn't think that would be the issue. However I should read up on how the EGR functions, what controls it, and how to verify the system. I have a VCDS cable but am very ignorant in how to use it. Time to learn.
I would assume your EGR valve is open as you don't have a CEL, however if it was stuck open I do not know if you would have a CEL. Verify that it is opening and closing normally. Then use adaptation to set it to it's minimum value.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3xbkRKZ-24&app=desktop

A question for you; You mentioned that Shell reformulated their T6 in 2017. Based on my previous oil reports dated before 2017 would it be fair to eliminate the Shell as the issue? My number seem to be pretty crappy both before and after 2017.
I've never used T6 and I really don't understand why people rave about it. When PQIA tested it a couple years ago, the results weren't impressive. It's a cheap product, in price and quality and I've never seen any great UOAs from people using it.

It's possible that Shell started putting the CK-4 formula in the old bottles prior to the roll-out.

You can't rule out the oil itself because the other member with the ALH tested in 12/2018 had the same thickening to a 50 wt. And you don't have any data from blackstone that would allow us to deduce what exactly happened. As I said, soot related thickening is abnormal w/ low insoluables and an OCI of 10K miles.

If you don't want to deal with the EGR or injectors, try a different 5w40 and have the oil analyzed by a lab that tests for actual soot, oxidation and TBN.

Fuel: I try to buy diesel from high volume stores locally and put Silver bottle Power Service in at every fill. About 4 ounces. I use the white bottle when its below freezing but that is very rare around Seattle.
You can test your fuel to see if an anti-gel additive is needed. Try leaving a mason jar of fuel outside on a cold winter night and see what happens. Anti-Gel additives usually contain light distillates which dilute the other additives which you need for complete combustion.
The two most concentrated diesel fuel additives that I know about are the Redline Diesel Fuel catalyst and Amalgamated TDR-FL. These are both warm weather formulas. The amalgamated product is significantly cheaper than Redline as it is available in bulk, however it must be measured at each fill up.

The Spray pattern of the injectors is questionable, however the oil sample itself doesn’t show any evidence of soot related thickening. I would guess the oil thickened in both samples due to oxidation. The new T6 doesn’t appear to be suitable for the ALH at a 10k interval which is why I recommended Mr. A57oval try something else in 5w40 in addition to finding the cause of his intake plugging up."
Is the plugging up of the intake related to oil quality? Maybe I should do this injector balance check and then have the injectors cleaned and balanced?
Can you recommend a company that does this? Do you think this would be necessary at 168,000 miles?
The intake gets plugged due to soot and oil vapor. They both mix together and form a plaque. Base oil quality does contribute to intake plugging. T6 was measured to have high volatility, so much more oil vapor than Redline 5w40 for example which has very low volatility. Over 2x as much. Basically a more expensive or "boutique" synthetic oil will have predominately Group IV and V base oils, which are very pure and stable. They can handle higher temperatures and resist evaporation. That's basically what your paying for. You can also install a Filtered Vapor Recovery Device (Mann Provent) and eliminate all oil vapor from the intake. This will add additional maintenance as the filter media must be checked periodically and may present an issue with emissions inspections. A Provent is a great upgrade, however it will cause you to fail an emissions inspection here in CA.

Injectors are a wear item. The spray pattern will degrade over time. They will need to be rebuilt or replaced. How long is determined by your fuel quality and duty cycle. Many people use this as an opportunity to upgrade to bigger injectors. An injector balance scan in VCDS can give you an indication that there *may* be something wrong and you have incomplete combustion due to poor fuel atomization. Incomplete combustion = soot.

DBW LLc in Idaho does Injector cleaning/calibration and also there is a place in Portland called Diesel Fuel Injection Service who can assist you.
 

turbobrick240

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2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
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