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I'd note that the aluminum readings on my 2012 TDI were above the universal averages / high 20's until I passed 50,000 miles. At that point they dropped down into the low teens and have been reporting consistently since then.
Similar to yours, my flashpoint is running 405 F. It had been higher previously, but my driving patterns have been more short trips over the past year or so. As Blackstone has suggested to you, I think short trips may be influencing that reading.
Regarding their mention of TBN, after I completed the 30K dealer oil changes, I switched to using LiquiMoly TopTec 4200 and have had TBN readings consistently in the mid-2's on OCI's above 15K. Not suggesting there is a problem with your reading, but when the dealer did my two oil changes at 10 and 20K, both analyses came back similar to yours at around 1.7.
Update from last analysis in August 2015 where I had high lead. This last oil analysis looks really good (10k sample, going for 15k). Don't know whether to chalk it up to the Mos2 or just the fact that I haven't done any or many WOT runs (or both). However, the Mos2 in both the Jeep Liberty CRD and my VW Golf has resulted in noticeable drops in wear metals. I think it is good stuff and I'll keep using it for piece of mind with 15k changes. Here's the 2002 Golf:I just got my oil analysis back on an extended OCI. The main concern is lead. I am going for a 15k OCI, and did this test around at 12.5k to see how things were going. Over the weekend, I went on a 1k road trip, so am now at 13.5k.
Maybe relevant info: Around 12k, I got a tune and ran lots of WOT logs. I do run higher blends of biodiesel regularly (but that is changing now that it is no longer available around me). FWIW, the car has given me the best mileage ever since the tune and a new MAF in the last 1k miles.
At this point, my plan is to continue to the 15k interval this time and test again to see what is up with the lead. Will I hurt anything by doing this? Any idea why it is so high?
My informed guess is the followers black coat have worn through and that is why the iron is increasing.
The mileage seems probable for this possibility.
I thought I would mention it since you have been chasing the aluminum with the boron which probably would have come down anyways once you stopped the use of MOS2 but it looks like the real problem is cam wear.
I believe the boron or boric acid in the case of the archoil and MOS2 are inert. If they are then you would have to add copious quantities to make any difference if wear surfaces are intact, since the little bit you put in would not be enough to be rubbed into the surface as this would be the only means of it to do anything.
I would pull the cam and check followers for scoring. If you see any scoring just put it back together. Sorry it is game over if that is the case as you will be on the last leg of another 50,000 miles at the most.
Your right, the only thing unusal is the spike in aluminum. I doubt MOS2 caused this. The spike in aluminum was probably caused by an abrasive material.
I am suggesting that abrasive material is the black follower coating becoming very thin and fracturing a the center of the follower. This is a normal wear process but it must happen very gradually to allow the underlying steel surface to be exposed without the black fracturing.
My opinion is to go with a group III base oil such as TDT and 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of ZDDPlus. At 7500 miles do a UOA and based on the results add another 3/4 ounce to maintain 1200 to 1400 phosphorous and run it as far as the UOA tell you to based on viscosity tbn etc. TDT has a lot of magnesium for detergent so I would not drop to much below TBN 4 with that oil.
You need to go back to being conservative( higher viscosity and anti-wear) until you get a clearer picture of what is happening with the wear metals. The black coating gives a faulse reading on UOA to how well the cam is doing. You only really find out during the black coating wear through which is an unknown factor. I think a good wear through would be above 50,000 miles.
Ok, I just assumed you put in a cheap cam in with all the additives you playing with.^^^ Ok I will have to digest a little bit more your message. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Another important date point is that when I bought the car used at ~ 130K miles I replaced the cam with a re-profiled stage II BHW cam from Franko6 (which I beleive it is Chrome plated). The cam now has around 54,000 miles or 86,400 miles.
My main objective is to continue lowering the overall wear metal rate. I started with the indicated (by Frank) break-in procedure back in Spring 2012. I used HDEO oils until putting the Pennzoil VW 507 oil (March 2016) with a HTHS viscosity, cP of 3.68 but with the lower viscosity at colder temperatures to reduce wear when engine is cold. The Archoil ceramic/Boron nano additives are an added insurance since I had not used a VW 507 oil before. Based on my own research, VW 507 oils have been used more widely in PD engines in Europe without issues.Ok, I just assumed you put in a cheap cam in with all the additives you playing with.
That is a totally different situation.
From what i understand Frank has had very few what you would call failures if you use the proper oil. Yes frank does't like TDT and doesn't say much about any other J4 oil even though he recommends S9000 which is equal to a J4. Also recmmends the 505.01 5w-40 which of course you already know.
If you got a expensive cam in there please explain why you are playing with additives and plan on using 507.00 although that would be useful if you can get an good UOA with that oil. To do it properly you have to run the oil for 500 miles and take a slightly used VOA and then a UOA at 10,000 to see if you can run it out further. That way you know what wear metals and adds you have from the last oil change and can determine immediately what your wear rate is.
I put the cheapest Febi cam i could find on the internet in just to find out if all the science I have read would prevent failure.
The Archoil might be why the Flash dropped from 460 to 425 and yet your viscosity remained the same. All your oils seem to be ok but the additives aren't helping one bit and you know it. The only thing I can do is ignore what you put in the oil and I would say your best UOA so far is the 5w-40 Delvac.Also here is the VOA for the Pennzoil Ultra Euro L oil used in this last UOA (source):
SUS Viscosity @ 210F: 65.4
cSt Viscosity @ 100C: 11.71
So TBN decreased only around 16% in 11,400 miles which is pretty good for any oil but more so for a VW 507 oil. I suspect this is in part due to the Archoil additives.
Having said all of this I also realize that I am dealing only with three data points spread across 54,000 miles (on the cam) and four and half years of using the Passat. I need more UOAs in the future to get a better picture of the health of the cam and the engine in general.
Frankly from these UOAs it is hard to say whether the MoS2 or the nano Boron Nitride/ceramic additives did or did not help. Interesting enough there are studies that shows Boron and WS2 nanoparticles working synergistically with ZDDP (see papers from Argonne National Labs and European institutions).The Archoil might be why the Flash dropped from 460 to 425 and yet your viscosity remained the same. All your oils seem to be ok but the additives aren't helping one bit and you know it. The only thing I can do is ignore what you put in the oil and I would say your best UOA so far is the 5w-40 Delvac.
But the 507 does have potential as the oil does not shear and has a high flash but the archoil screwed up the UOA. Now you have to start from scratch with that oil.
Yes, the sodium is likely coming from your fuel. WVO isn't doing your injectors any favors either.
My report shows high sodium. I run WVO in my TDI and use salt as a de-watering step. Could that have gotten into the engine oil and could that harm my engine? I also use the Delo 5w-40 and my OCI is 3k - 4k. This report was done at 3.5K
We've had so many years of experience with WVO in TDI engines, and those experiences are almost always bad. Short OCIs help, but they do not prevent the fuel from contaminating the engine oil -- and no matter how professionally the WVO is processed, it is still harmful when it mixes with engine oil. WVO is usually fine in indirect-injection engines, but not for our direct-injection engines.My report shows high sodium. I run WVO in my TDI and use salt as a de-watering step. Could that have gotten into the engine oil and could that harm my engine? I also use the Delo 5w-40 and my OCI is 3k - 4k. This report was done at 3.5K
My opinion, It looks like your motor is not designed for a thick 40 weight oil like TDT. Check out how much it has sheared. If you want to run a CJ4 oil( not a low ash oil), I would run the 5w-30 viscosity( 12cst at 100 C) with the best Noak rating available to minimize ash loading.Just got back the first run on Mobil1 TDT 5w/40 in my '15 EA288 with stage 2 "eco" tune. Very impressed, almost eerily low numbers! Going to wait till after warranty to extend change intervals.
The "eco" tune refers to the lack of DPF on the vehicle, thus no need for a low ash oil. The UOA in that post is 90% highway miles. Car now runs quite a bit more city, but not stop and go traffic. If the the oil had sheared too much, would wear have gone up as well?My opinion, It looks like your motor is not designed for a thick 40 weight oil like TDT. Check out how much it has sheared. If you want to run a CJ4 oil( not a low ash oil), I would run the 5w-30 viscosity( 12cst at 100 C) with the best Noak rating available to minimize ash loading.
What is your highway/city miles in the above UOA?