I have a little to add to aNUT's method of obtaining a good match between the pump's static and dynamic timing settings.
Rather than use measuring block 004 to match things up, I use measuring block 000, field 2. That is the raw timing data in much more fine increments than found in measuring block 004.
Typically, once the engine is fully warmed up, thermostat opened (around 87-95C preferably) that is when you check the timing.
Goto measuring block zero, make note of what the number in field 2 is. With it fully warmed up, it should be in the 55-62 range at idle. If it's higher than that, you likely have the pump statically set higher than what the computer is requesting.
Hit basic settings, note the change in field 2. If no change happens, the pump is in fact statically set more advanced than what the computer is requesting.
If the number drops, the static setting is lower than what it's requesting. My experience has been that when the car is properly warmed up, the static setting vs. requested is practically right on the middle line, or around a value of 55 in field 2, measuring block 000.
So that's what I've been doing lately, I make the mechanical adjustment with the engine fully warm until I get the most minimal drop in measuring block 000 field 2 value when I switch to basic settings.
When you're done, you can double check your work in measuring block 4 if you like, but when done right, those two numbers (actual vs. requested) will absolutely match and the pump won't have to work very hard to get it there.
I have done this for a few customers very recently. I will have to try it on my Mk3 soon. Fuel economy has been less than optimal lately! Though, it may have something to do with my driving style... and the fact I frequently haul very heavy tools around (pretty much on the bump stops in the rear)!