TDI Timing Revisited


Veteran Member
Oct 31, 2014
Canada's Ocean Playground
2013 Golf TDI DSG

As best I understand it the OP says to keep setting the initial timing higher until you aren't getting initial and actual to match, then go back where they are matching. Where did I make a wrong turn?
You didn't make a wrong turn per se, but you're looking at too many things at the same time. This thread is supposed to be about ignition timing...setting it, adapting it, whatever. The IQ is separate from the timing. Take some time to read up on IQ, EGR, and MAF...they are three entirely separate topics from the injection timing.

LOL! Yeah, pretty hard to dispute after reading it. For me I'd already "tested" what so many others were promoting.
I tested it as well, and my car was running like a dog, so I didn't even leave it long enough to check MPG. I put it back to stock specs. I believe you really need a proper ECU tune if you want the car to work well without the EGR. Personally, I don't mind cleaning the intake out...I don't see what the big deal is with it. My car runs like a top and gets good MPG with the EGR system intact...I'll deal with cleaning it every now and then.


Veteran Member
Aug 15, 2007
2000 Jetta
I run 5 degrees advanced in adaption and then set the pump so the duty cycle is 2.9%. I ignore the timing graph.

Specified vs Actual are both 5.5 degrees

With this setup I have run well over 100k miles with no problems and a solid 4-5mpg increase over stock timing.
I tried this route this afternoon and the car seems to run better.


Top Post Dawg
Dec 24, 2014
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Matt, are you still going by/with this?

I have a little to add to aNUT's method of obtaining a good match between the pump's static and dynamic timing settings.

Rather than use measuring block 004 to match things up, I use measuring block 000, field 2. That is the raw timing data in much more fine increments than found in measuring block 004.

Typically, once the engine is fully warmed up, thermostat opened (around 87-95C preferably) that is when you check the timing.

Goto measuring block zero, make note of what the number in field 2 is. With it fully warmed up, it should be in the 55-62 range at idle. If it's higher than that, you likely have the pump statically set higher than what the computer is requesting.

Hit basic settings, note the change in field 2. If no change happens, the pump is in fact statically set more advanced than what the computer is requesting.

If the number drops, the static setting is lower than what it's requesting. My experience has been that when the car is properly warmed up, the static setting vs. requested is practically right on the middle line, or around a value of 55 in field 2, measuring block 000.

So that's what I've been doing lately, I make the mechanical adjustment with the engine fully warm until I get the most minimal drop in measuring block 000 field 2 value when I switch to basic settings.

When you're done, you can double check your work in measuring block 4 if you like, but when done right, those two numbers (actual vs. requested) will absolutely match and the pump won't have to work very hard to get it there.

I have done this for a few customers very recently. I will have to try it on my Mk3 soon. Fuel economy has been less than optimal lately! Though, it may have something to do with my driving style... and the fact I frequently haul very heavy tools around (pretty much on the bump stops in the rear)!


Veteran Member
Aug 15, 2012
california socal
beetle TDI 2000
Just rummaging through the old and some new posts about pump mechanical initial timing set to the green top line ..and Laugh every time I read ..I Set mine to the center or just below I have tried both better MPG and MUCH better diesel type power ..if You want gasser type power the top advance setting works.

This below is all over the forum ..not Mine copy and paste

Advanced timing Pros:
- More power, particularly at high revs
- Improved MPGs
- Easier cold starts
- Less smoke
- Lower EGTs

Advanced timing Cons:
- Higher cylinder pressures
- Higher NOx emissions

Retarded timing Pros:
- Lower NOx emissions
- Lower cylinder pressures

Retarded timing Cons:
- Poor performance
- Poor MPGs
- More smoke (tons more with performance mods)
- Harder cold starts
- Higher EGTs
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Well-known member
Jan 28, 2014
1.9 TDI 1Z
I am newbie here so I don't know is this problem discused or not.
So when I drive with car in 3rd or 4th gear in WOT, I get, that my requsted timing drops. See in picture. What causes, that ECU is retarding the timing in load ?

I hope, that someone will help me with this problem.