Tdi swap to 1.8T wagon project

[eddieleephd]

I just picked up a 1.8T Wagon and will be swapping my ALH into it.
This should be a fun project [emoji41]
At least I have something to look forward to!


I get the joy of transplanting my:
Engine, manual trans and shift lever, radio, column covers headliner, lower dash, and the cluster;
as well as relocating the EGT sensor to its optimal position and either replacing, or repurposing the fuel tank.
To top it off I will end up swapping all the suspension as I installed it just over a year ago.


There are many things that are different between the 1.8T and the ALH, however, three lines that are different pressure line to power steering to the driver side of the engine compartment and the AC lines that goes to the compressor. So do yourself a favor and disconnect the AC lines before removing the engine and change the power steering line while the engine is out, it's so much easier to get to!


The more I look at it the more I realize I have yet to begin and presently I'm about a third of the way through the project.
I have successfully removed both engines and shift levers exhausts, lower dashes and getting ready to begin with the fuel system before clogging my path.

Having finally finished the swap today and sit here thinking about the experience, it occurs to me that looking for instructions on how to perform your TDI swap is difficult because all of them are different.
Many years of vehicles have much of the same wiring and pin locations, however, you must test everything to verify that it is in fact what you expect.
Certain things can be bypassed on some vehicles, such as possibly the automatic due to the speed sensor going to the TCM as well as the cluster. A manual on the other hand you must run a wire from pin 3 to the cluster pin 28 green wire for the speedo to work.

In this process I will be drawing from many write-ups here on TDI Club and other VW specific websites. I will try to include the links to beneficial information along the way.

I am grateful to all the members whom have put the energy into doing these write-ups and compiling it in easier ways to access.

Here are the first links to look at before beginning:


Awesome search engine created by whalleyz, this is an invaluable resource and I am thankful every time I use it!
TDI Custom Search
I highly recommend becoming familiar with it if you have not already!

Compilation of swap threads for review, thanks G60ING for putting it together.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=142679


Relay 109
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=19903

As I look at the next image, I realize that I am going to be doing a manual swap on the gear shift, and driver's seat.

As a shade tree mechanic I decided that it's going to be much more enjoyable if I setup my work station first.

I must insert my disclaimer here, I am not liable for any thing you choose to do to your vehicle and any working on your vehicle should be done in the safest manner possible!

I believe life will be much easier without the front end getting in the way.


Don't forget to drain and properly dispose of the antifreeze, please!
First difference I noticed is the battery tray is too small so I removed it to install my battery so I can open the hatch.



Now I can touch the engine without bending over, or fighting with anything.
Still have to evacuate the AC system.


Wow, I sure am glad that's not my engine.

I like my phone's camera, you can see the ring along side the burnt piston.
The inter-cooler looks familiar.



Always be sure to secure your vehicle so that it doesn't fall on you!

I used OSB on top of my jack to lower the engine on to pvc for easy movement. I just slid The jack out from under it.


All images in this thread have been uploaded to TDIclub at the following gallery.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showgallery.php?cat=6991


I did a mass import of all images after doing the predominant portion of the editing, if I miss additional images I apologize.
However, I must say when I found the bottom portion that says import all photos from url// I was relieved that I wouldn't have to go back and re upload all the photos. They are not in order and I may go back to slip the link below the image, however, I will put more effort later into titling them.

Below is a couple days after getting it together up on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

 

[eddieleephd]

With the engine out I proceeded to pull the shifter from the car.
I should have pulled the AC lines before removing the engine as I had to change one anyhow. Far easier not to have to worry about it being there moving an engine.

In order to do so you must remove the down pipe, which must come out anyhow, and the heat shield above it to get the shifter out of the car.

I believe you can figure out how to remove the console, therefore, I will show you how the shift assembly comes apart. This is also shown more in depth in the lower console write-up linked below that I found after removing mine.
In my journey I have found that you do not have to remove the dash to remove the cluster, only the steering wheel and steering wheel trim.


Thank you darisd, VgRt6, and tatge over at VW Vortex for such a nice series of write-ups dealing with removing the dash and console. Wish I had found these before I did the lower console

Lower dash removal beginning with lower console
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?958556

Steering wheel removal
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?764870

dash removal
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4180628



The chrome piece separates from the knob downward releasing its grip on the rod.
Next you want to separate the position selector from the module by prying gently on the clips holding the face plate on and lifting the shift knob silver piece that locks it there and shift selector, these essentially slide on over the shaft of the module.
I found it safer not to damage the selector with it removed.


Below I show how you can use a hook to grab the side of the plug a finger cannot access.
I hold it with my fingers and press against the other side with my thumb on the same hand, works wonderfully!

The nuts above were use to hold the unit in place until after the heat shield and exhaust were out of the way and the bolts below are removed.
On the right is the cable end that goes into the shift assembly which is removed by being slid to the side, this is simply left under the console when installing the manual shift module.



As you can see here they're above, along side, the heat shield. Below is a retainer clip that holds the heat shield in place.



Pry up the three tabs around it and unscrew, or otherwise remove, the retainers to allow the shield to come out.
The rear shield is in the way a little of the shifter from coming out. I finally said screw it and bent it the little needed.
Next for the donor to give its life force!
I created my own, shade tree, cherry picker to extract the engine from the donor.
I figured since I couldn't move the car and was working on a slope I would be better off with all the mechanical advantage I could achieve.

The jack allowed me to lift the weight of the engine off the car and remove the bolts holding it in, then lower it slowly to drive out from under the car with it.

With the wrap of a chain around the crane and I am ready to get the engine out

I drilled a hole in a 2x4 to act as a spreader across the engine and ran a spreader chain to the two empty holes available on the manual transmission.
Above you can see a board I had attached to act as a lever for controlling the engine in case it was off balance, or I needed to rotate it.

Above is the turbo side of the engine and below the oil filter side.

Below you can see the spreader with the chain draped over the engine.
This method was really advantageous and I would definitely utilize it again.


Having removed my radio, EGT gauge and the console it lives in I need to remove the dash and instrument cluster, a quick search yields good results with a video showing how to remove the vents.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=308810

 

[eddieleephd]

Here are a couple of links, thanks to boertje and alphaseinor, to the manual swap showing the removal of the shift lever and installation of the clutch pedal.
I will not be including pictures as the ones in the link are terrific.
Clutch removal and installation/ auto to manual swap write-up:
http://pics3.tdiclub.com/data/517/Boertje_Auto_to_6_spd_manual_swap_and_wiring_instructions.pdf
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516
I decided to include the necessary pictures of what I did different on my car's brake pedal.

I noticed that the automatic brake pedal was essentially the same as the manual pedal with a larger metal cover for the automatic pedal spot welded to it.
However, it is reinforced on the back with a piece of steel that inhibits the retainer plug from being pushed in all the way.
I decided to drill out the weld spots on the pedal, then I took off the larger metal plate from the manual size brake pedal.
To get the manual pedal cover on I had to take the cross piece out of the retainer plug insert it pushing in on the sides, to compensate for the brace, with the back of my hook and then step on it pretty hard to get it in as best as I could.
That left a slight bump in the middle of the pedal I'm hoping will work it's way out. May end up manipulating the brace with channel lock plier's if possible.

Here is the T14a from both vehicles to see the differences between them. Post 10 has the engine side pics of both T14a connectors
This is as much for me as anyone else, I'm thinking this through right now.

Instructions given for the T14a connector only deal with wires
T14/ 2, 5, & 6 physical verification puts these at fuse spaces 7. 32, & 34
Wire gauge is the same but fuse 32 is a 10A rather than a 30A, however, I trust that I can use this and swap the fuse to 30A just fine.
(I wouldn't think this okay if the wires were different gauges)




TDI
1: gn/sw big --- to T32/10gn/sw at cluster
2: sw/gn --- pwr frm fuse 7 - 10A powers vss at trans
3: gn --- to T32/28 gn at cluster - speed signal to from ecu
4: li --- to T32/18 li at cluster - coolant temp
5: ro/li --- pwr from fuse 32 - 30A
6: ge/sw --- pwr from fuse 34 - 10A
7: Brown --- Ground in front of ECU

9: br/ws --- ground for sensors - splice with cluster grounds
10: gn/sw (small)- to load reduction relay - from ECU T121/88

2,4,6,8 have matching colors and no others in the TDI harness so these should plug together (unless the 1.8T doesn't correlate, still have to check myself) looking for the other end of the wires in the car to see how to make all alterations to the vehicle inside the cockpit.

You can see that 5,7,9 are the same color here

Here is T-32 cluster plug, lucily it is easier to get to than T-32A (green and identical)

Above shows back sliding down to let you access the release levers on both sides, The below image is numbered on the wrong side, Green wire in the second picture is 28 and where the VSS needs to route to.

Connections of interest below, if any, should be on this side of the connector. I am unsure if it will be necessary myself, therefore, I will try to plug and play the cluster. Terminal three I traced to the Blue T10/10 connector in the rain tray the rest were as needed.
1: gn/sw big --- to T32/10gn/sw at cluster not in the 1.8T However goes where it needs to.
3: gn --- to T32/28 gn at cluster - speed signal from ECU (I routed to Rain tray)
4: li --- to T32/18 li at cluster - coolant temp (goes where it needs to)
10: gn/sw (small)- to load reduction relay - from ECU T121/88 (does not connect through, however the load reduction relay works)

Based on the link I posted to the pinout for the TDI both sides follow the Numbering I posted in the picture.

 

[eddieleephd]

Wiring is a tricky one when it comes to the ALH Swap.
Or at least I used to think it was.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE IS THAT ALL THE CONNECTORS HAVE AN UNLOCKED POSITION AND YOU SHOULD NEVER TRY TO REMOVE A PIN WITH THE CONNECTOR LOCKED! THESE LOCKS ARE DENOTED BY A MAGENTA PIECE AND IT GENERALLY SLIDES ONE WAY OR ANOTHER. IF YOU SEE AN ARROW THAT DENOTES THE LOCKED POSITION AND TO UNLOCK IT YOU MUST MOVE THE OPPOSITE WAY!!! THE T14a MAGENTA CENTER SLIDES TOWARD THE SQUARE END A CLICK AND THEN YOU CAN PULL THE PINS WITH AN ADEQUATE TOOL!

How to make terminal release tools for VW and Audi - YouTube
Once I found this link I made both size tools with generic wiper blade metal found at the auto store after a short rain. I never went further than a custom pair of tweezers on the large tool. The small tool I wrapped wire around the spacers locking them in and avoided finding a handle.

Basics of the manufacturing your own pin tools:
Material used is generic wiper blade metal that is on either side of the rubber.
Bend a piece fairly sharply in half and cut the ends even keeping them square.
Next we file with a good sharp flat file, the more aggressive the file the easier it is to gouge in and force you to start over. Take your time and realize that the micro tool requires more work and attention to detail.
File the sides evenly making sure the points you are creating are straight and parallel. They should slide into the connector easily where there's no pin, otherwise keep filing until it does.
Use a T14a plug to gauge the size of the points. I found the male plug gives better definition for comparison, just don't push it in with force, it should be easy and slip out just as easily.
The larger pin tools thickness should be fine and not need filing, however, the micro tool will have to be shaped more extensively.
The micro tool is shaped quite a bit more like tweezers, including a slight curve and sharper tips.

How to remove pins from connectors:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUtEBe4DEVQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrs8-KtJGus



Turns out that if you're lucky enough to have the engine bay wiring harness that includes the glow plug relay circuit it's just a matter of changing a few wires to be controlled by the 109 relay and running the speed sensor up to the cluster so the speedometer works and if you're installing a manual into an originally automatic converting the 175 relay into a 53 clutch start relay.
Then ensuring that the other circuits are properly aligned for powering fans and such, which I found isn't an issue as long as the 109 relay is connected properly.

I'm posting all the information I used to figure this out starting with this link I finally found through a search for the T14a pin-out for the 1.8t :/
This includes all the information you need to get any swap figured out with all the raintray connectors pinned out.
https://app.box.com/s/4smnrrbry4rfniry5oqh
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=387649
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=227196

The rain tray cover over the connectors that need to have pins moved to the correct locations.

Connectors shown under lifted cover.
These are a little tricky to disconnect, you have to release the levers on both sides and pull in confined space.
I used a hook and small flat blade screw driver, then later realized that using the probes from the multimeter was the easiest method.

Upper plug side of connectors with locking levers shown face side of a T10 plug shown below. Note the latches top and bottom.

TDI engine bay Harness removed from car, a good feeling!

Wiring to be removed from donor harness.
Red line shows path of large red wire I intend to use to bring power to the 109 relay and the OEM engine bay fuse block including the connectors for the 109 relay and places for 5 fuses.

Circled below is where the heavy supply wire splits into two to supply both relays with power.
I have it in my mind that this may be useful to supply power to fog lights in the future.

Relay pigtail closeup with OEM fuse tray shown behind

These are the wires possible to be used with OEM relay and fuse holder from the gasser harness if you don't have a TDI harness or 109 relay harness.

I carefully reviewed the difference between the vehicles plugs and noticed that the recipient has more wires than the donor and that they all correlate color wise except for the ones specified below.
Unfortunately you will have to do the same thing in order to make sure you have the right connections.

So in the end I swapped the blue/yellow and black/yellow wires in the tan raintray t6 connector so they match the vehicle side t6/5 and t6/6 respectively.
I added a pin in the blue connector that goes to my 109 relay to turn it on, there was no wire in the vehicle plug so this was easier than the tan plug swap.

The diagram below is the easy way and is much of what I used to do my wiring combined with the link to the pinouts from VdubSpeedTuning which are difficult to interpret due to the lack of description of which components they operate in many cases. I figured it out though.

http://s198.photobucket.com/user/agentmaddock/media/109diagram_zps1f014154.jpg.html
Agentmaddocks directions to avoid fuse box, without pics as I linked them well:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/6991/Agentmaddocks_directions.pdf
Vdubtuning's pinout
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=387649


One thing I notice about the diagram above is that when using the OEM engine bay harness that includes the glow plug relay you do not have to connect to the glow plug relay it any other place than to connect to the T6 connector, either at pin 5, or 6, you have to connect to relay 109 to both either way. The other wire I had to concern myself with was the Blue T10/10 being connected to the VSS(speed sensor T14a/3)




Unlike the diagram below I have utilized the vehicles original T14a plug next to the battery and routed from the fuse box leaving myself a couple extra fuses to connect to later.

All fuses stated below have been verified physically on the recipient vehicle.

T14a/2 fuse 7 (Do not need to mess with using stock plug in recipient, may be the cause of my continuing implausible 109 that doesn't effect operation)


T14a/3 (needs to be connected to the green wire in the cluster, I did this through the rain tray Blue T10/10 as I found continuity here to the cluster.)


T14a/4,5,6 all get power from the relay 109

T14a/4 fuse 43 lift pump, engine accessories, maybe more? (Easiest to get to in the fuse box)

T14a/5 fuse 32 - 30A (to relay 109)

T14a/6 fuse 34 - 10A (to relay 109)

The T14a runs into the cockpit along the chassis and does not go through the rain tray

The rain tray connectors below are verified

T10/8 ecu to operate the 109 relay
T10/10 Green wire to cluster blue plug pin 28 from the VSS T14a/3, it also went to the TCU in the auto trans

T6/5 Yel/blk (relay 109/goes directly to the GP Relay in the engine harness
T6/6 Blu/Yel (relay 109/ goes ??
I had a conversation with Marc (jettawreck) a few minutes ago and am confident could use the 1.8T's (T14a) by splicing 2, 5, 6, to my OEM 109 relay/fuse block under the hood. The rest of the T14a either matches, or can be removed to prevent issues with anything.

Marc said that he only used 2, 5, 6 in his T14a and stuck his own cluster in with no issue. This I only find possible due to his auto trans possibly.

Other wires I really wanted to keep intact were #7 the fat ground wire which ties in to the nut at the ECM, #4 I am sure would be nice since they're the same color on all T14's probably the cooling fans or something.

Having done all the research I have found it easiest to leave the vehicles T14a in tact and plug into it with the engines T14a instead of the trying to splice the wires or repin and run new wires from the T14a other than the number 3 pin I had no choice. Temperature sensor runs through straight to the cluster without modification and so does the ground to the ground nut at the ECM.

I was going to use 90* flat blade connectors, which I made with a flat blade T6 terminals I pulled from the donor, to power the T14a/5&6 at the fuse panel jus removing the fuse and supplying power myself, so:
I pulled wires to fit the beige T6/5 to operate the glow plugs relay and blue. Following the above diagram you can run the fuse 43 power through the brown connector as well
T10/8 to operate relay 109.

This is what my relay circuit looked like before my install.

This changed after I looked at it again and my perfectionist took hold.

I used two accessory fuses off the TDI donor after the relay leaving the 30A ahead of it because I can find a 40A if necessary, which I doubt will be necessary.
Something to check in a crank no start though.
I unwrapped the wire bundle, cut about 2 1/2" from the fuse box and added splice connectors to protect the ends and allow me to add two circuits to the stock fuse box on the accessory circuit for future added circuits that can handle 20A. I believe that is the circuit that doesn't get knocked down during cranking so it can power coils and pumps.
I connected the yel/blk GP relay wire to a 15A fuse, and the red/vio to T14a/5 to a 20A fuse, these wires are backwards in my ALH Tan T6 raintray connector. I swapped them so it would cause less confusion in the future, maybe.

Looked picture like information:
Small Blu/yel wire at the top is to T10/8 to activate the 109 relay.

To the right below are the two connectors I will plug into the fuse panel at spots 32 RD/BLK & 34 Orange

Big red wire @ the bottom with the inline fuse is supply voltage for the 109 relay.

Amusing, it's only going to be providing 20A to the circuit.

You don't need to worry about T14a/2 in the wiring harness as it's powered by fuse 7 in any mkiv vehicle.

The only real difference is the fuel pump power supply T14a/5 and the glow plug relay circuit T14a/6.

Without the donor engine bay wiring harness that includes the glow plug relay circuit, it would have to be figured out as well.

 

[eddieleephd]

This project is extremely in depth and definitely best done in the least amount of time beginning to end.
I read many comments about it being far easier and maybe more affordable to just find a new TDI and sell the engine, or hold on to it if possible.
I definitely agree, if you would prefer not to have intimate knowledge of every aspect of your vehicle and perform certain upgrades in the process, that you should really consider that advice as valid and heed the warning.
As well, if you are hesitant to pull an engine to change the clutch this job is likely not for you
Things I didn't consider before I began definitely were a lot easier with a donor sitting there waiting.
Simply being able to get a plug, a repair wire, or look at the wires on the donor is a great advantage.
Presently I am awaiting the repair of my down pipe, and possibly a new cat as well,so I can install the engine.
Also, when I began this thread, I had no idea the undertaking I would be making just to put the thread together. Definitely understand why there's not more available. I have a much greater appreciation for all of those who have done a write-up or in depth thread for the benefit of the community. I always appreciated being able to get the info from the tremendous resource we are building here for fellow TDI'ers as well as ourselves.

Now on with the project:

Down pipe back and getting painted to prolong the inevitable replacement

Yes, that's a homemade egt bung I fabricated out of scrap 6" mild steel pipe welded immediately after the turbo.
I figured this was the most optimal overall as I will only have to tap another with the new down pipe and not my turbo. Also the pipe has an arc versus the alternative flat stock.
The new pipe welded on isn't the same quality as the OEM annealed pipe which is why I'm protecting it with paint, that and welds like to rust.

I am getting excited about the opportunity to drive it this week!
I found a little intake upgrade in a box left over from the 1.8t that matches the bottom pancake pipe, some times you have a bit of luck.

Definitely proud of this accomplishment getting the engine in with the EGT and boost sensors routed and meticulously installed.

I routed the boost sensor wiring through the OEM pass through under the rain tray and taped with gaffers tape.

I had little straw from an oil pump for gallon and quart jugs that fit well to allow me to run the wires into the rain tray. I would definitely recommend using this method. I was able to push the straw all the way through and pull the wires through and slipping it off the wires on the other side. Kind of like a removable conduit to stretch the rubber temporarily.

All the wires running into and through the engine bay conduit are nice and tight as well.

This is the 1.8T air box bottom, it has an additional inlet for air that faces the engine.

 

[eddieleephd]

It runs!

I got it started after running through a good bit of the information I used to do the swap.
After speaking with jettawreck I decided to run through the OEM T14a connector and ignore some of the things that were done in other swaps as he said, he used AgentMaddocks Relay Diagram and didn't touch the fuse box at all, neither did he have to worry about fuse 43, which I'm guessing runs through the T6 he changed wires in and thus bypassing dealing with the fuse box.
This is exactly the case the brown T6 houses most of the power wires that go to the engine bay.
In
I on the other hand want to install an aftermarket radio soon and need a fuse available and the ability to power another circuit would be nice!


I have edited this post and the link below is of the initial readings from Vag-Com
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5bbc0ee10b357/01%20Initial%20readout%20VAGCOM.doc


The QA isn't necessarily lost if it doesn't function properly, http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=451454

It is very simple. Do NOT wire it in to the main fuse box. That is a rats nest and you don't want to get into that. Go to your local auto parts store and get a ATC style fuse block. I got one with 6 ports. I wired everything as shown below on vdubspeeds wiring diagram.
Here is the fuse block. One main positive in and six positive outs.

Here is the only picture I have of my 109 relay once I extracted it from the donor harness.

Here is the wiring diagram. If I were you, here is what I would do. Snip the large blue wire coming out of relay 109 before it splits into three.
Connectors:
T14a is the connector by the battery at the front fender. I simply snipped the existing wires about 6 inches from the plug. (make sure you are on the correct body side of the harness and not the engine side) Then I simply splice the new wires in and just taped the old ones up.
T6 is the beige raintray connector. For this I simply unpinned the existing wires and repinned the new ones that I had unpinned and extracted from the tdi harness. You could also just snip them a couple inches down and splice the new in.
T10 Blue is the blue raintray connector. There is only one wire that you will mess with for this connector.
Relay wires:
-Large red wire from relay 109 gets connected to one of the 30A posts on the relay panel under the dash. Do NOT, I repeat DO NOT, connect it to the 75x terminal. Ask me how I know...
-Large blue wire (gray wire on mine) from relay 109 will go to the fuse block main post.
-The third small blue/yellow wire coming into relay 109 goes to T10 Blue/8. (blue 10 pin connector in raintray in pin location #8. This is the signal wire from the ecu for the relay.)

Fuse block wires: I only used fuses in 5 spots in the fuse block because I mimic'd the 109 diagram and placed two wires on two of the terminals.
-10 amp fuse. Single wire goes to T14a/2.
-30 amp fuse. Single wire goes to black/yellow wire on the glowplug relay in the raintray. (if yours is in the relay panel we will have to figure something else out)
-10 amp fuse. Single wire goes to T6/6.
-10 amp fuse. Two wires. One goes to T14a/6, the other goes to T6/5.
-30 amp fuse. Two wires. One goes to T14a/5, the other goes to T6/4.
So to break this down. You have 3 wires going to T14a, 3 going to T6, 1 going to the glowplugs, and 1 coming from T10 blue. Hook the main red power wire to a 30a constant post under the relay panel, and the other main wire to the fuse block. I put my MS Paint skills to use tonight and made a diagram . Hopefully it makes sense.

 

[ToxicDoc]

following along too

 

[GEFP]

I'll follow this one. If I can find a cheep donar car I have a 1.8T that needs an engine.

 

[WildChild80]

I'll follow this one. If I can find a cheep donar car I have a 1.8T that needs an engine.

Sorry to thread jack a little but they're all over down here...both flavors and as many 2 liters as one can imagine

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[eddieleephd]

I'll follow this one. If I can find a cheep donar car I have a 1.8T that needs an engine.

I will say that Air Conditioning and a lift would be great in this project


I am taking my time and working when it's cool enough out to do so.


Adding engine side wiring pics here for review

Alh = Engine side TDI= Car side, matched Number to number as when plugged in

ALH to 1.8t number 3 is missing on the 1.8 chasis

 

[jettawreck]

Following to see how it goes. I've done one of these swaps already but it was a bit simpler-manual 1.8.
PM sent.

 

[eddieleephd]

http://web.mit.edu/dennis/www/vw/relays.html

 

[blkhatsilhouette]

Have you determined where to connect in for pin 3 and pin 10? I'm in the middle of a very similar project, and I'm not not sure about the green wire (pin 3) or the black/green wire (pin 10) on the engine side, that doesn't exist on the 1.8t's chassis side.

I confirmed there is a green wire on pin 28 of the blue cluster connector, just don't know where it goes if it doesn't go to the T14a connector's pin 3. I also see that the fuse that's in the 10th spot of the fuse panel in the TDI isn't the same in the 1.8t fuse box, and there is no black/green wire...

 

[eddieleephd]

Have you determined where to connect in for pin 3 and pin 10? I'm in the middle of a very similar project, and I'm not not sure about the green wire (pin 3) or the black/green wire (pin 10) on the engine side, that doesn't exist on the 1.8t's chassis side.

I confirmed there is a green wire on pin 28 of the blue cluster connector, just don't know where it goes if it doesn't go to the T14a connector's pin 3. I also see that the fuse that's in the 10th spot of the fuse panel in the TDI isn't the same in the 1.8t fuse box, and there is no black/green wire...

Are you asking about the T14a?
They should power through how they're needed. Do your wires match the pictures I posted?

Edit: T14a/3 has to go to the Blue T10/10 spot(in mine anyhow this is where I find continuity between the pin in the cluster and the rain-tray.) test pins in the rain tray until you get the right one.



first edit:

Okay after rereading your post I figured out how to explain it to you.
Plug T14 directly to the car's.

Below is my original circuit I installed.

Small Blu/yel wire at the top is to T10/8 to activate the 109 relay.

To the right below are the two connectors I will plug into the fuse panel at spots 32 RD/BLK & 34 Orange

Big red wire @ the bottom with the inline fuse is supply voltage for the 109 relay.

Amusing, it's only going to be providing 20A to the circuit.

You don't need to worry about T14a/2 in the wiring harness as it's powered by fuse 7 in any mkiv vehicle.

The only real difference is the fuel pump power supply T14a/5 and the glow plug relay circuit T14a/6.

I changed my mind after install and all the information is in post 4 including pictures of the results.

 

[eddieleephd]

Have you determined where to connect in for pin 3 and pin 10? I'm in the middle of a very similar project, and I'm not not sure about the green wire (pin 3) or the black/green wire (pin 10) on the engine side, that doesn't exist on the 1.8t's chassis side.

I confirmed there is a green wire on pin 28 of the blue cluster connector, just don't know where it goes if it doesn't go to the T14a connector's pin 3. I also see that the fuse that's in the 10th spot of the fuse panel in the TDI isn't the same in the 1.8t fuse box, and there is no black/green wire...

Cluster should just plug and play, that's what I was told by Jettawreck when I asked.


The cluster seems to be plug and play as of today when I started the vehicle, no modifications to the cluster connections, I believe that I could run the T14a green wire on 3 to splice into the wire headed into the cluster, however, as of yet I have no reason to try.
The link below has all the information
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=387649&page=3
or maybe here
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6127236-5-speed-swap-speed-sensor-question


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[eddieleephd]

Got it running today after some back tracking and figuring out what I missed.
It would be ludicrous to think that you would be able to get away from the last minute rundown and figure it out ordeal at the end. Seems like you always find something you either forgot, or didn't consider.

The original no crank with key turned was due to missing the swapping of the start relay 175 to a relay 53, as a part of the manual swap. Nothing to do with engine aspect of the swap, yet a part of mine due to the manual transmission swap aspect.

Then I had a crank no start to run down.
(This embarrassingly enough was my forgetting to plug T14A in before I put the battery tray back in, which resulted in codes for terminal 30 implausible, N75 short to ground, and QA maximum threshold. It also led to me pulling the QA to find it not sweeping, then doing the hammer mod!)

Okay, I got everything together and finally go for the crank and all but crank happens.
Error codes of importance
Immo stopped start (swapped immo and immo light goes off hasn't returned)
and
Terminal 30 implausible
(This was me missing the fuse 43 being powered off the 109 and the bum fuse/resistor ahead of the relay, and then it was the T14a being unplugged)
Is terminal 30 supposed to be the 109?
(No, terminal 30 is the combined output, (or the engine portion only maybe, just thinking it through), of the relay, however, not all of them it yeilds implausible code. How plausible is it that a circuit is supplied with voltage and not one connected to the same supply? Fuse, plug, broken wires are a few before ecm.)
I cleared the codes, attempted to crank and nothing again, this time no codes...
Found someone else's post that their fix was to replace fuse 32.
Fuse 32 I moved and is good.
Checked battery for voltage and it was 12.17V.
Maybe that fuse ahead of the 109, will check first thing in the morning, then what?
Yeah that thing is coming out.
I will be trouble shooting tomorrow and maybe someone else has an idea?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181008/72f4ff85c7425eccea91e63358debe24.jpg

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[G60ING]

I added you to the swap thread, nice work

 

[BobnOH]

Well this is one of the nicest swap threads I've seen!
Only comment-You might consider using thumbnails for the photos.

 

[jettawreck]

Nice to see you have mostly wrapped it up and got it going!
Was glad to be of some encouragement and assistance.
Now that cold weather has arrived up north here I need to do some troubleshooting of my own swap. GPs or relay is randomly not cycling. I suspect a poor connection to one of the spliced wires but no time to investigate as of yet. Almost time to park the swap car and put the original "jettawreck" (silver '01) back into service for winter. Save this one from the salt if possible.

 

[jettawreck]

I added you to the swap thread, nice work

In the "TDI Conversions" section? I couldn't find it.
Edit: Didn't realize the first page had the links.

 

[eddieleephd]

Well this is one of the nicest swap threads I've seen!
Only comment-You might consider using thumbnails for the photos.

I thought about you around the third post and remembered that I should at least crop them.
I may have the ability to convert them all, never really did thumb nails. Will look into it, thinking of trying to convert to PDF as was done with, "kill da auto wabbit." Will take a while to complete though.

Thank you for the compliment, I didn't intend to go so far, just kinda happened when I found all the available ones were fragmented and we really needed one with more information and pictures as well as Link's to more information etc.


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[eddieleephd]

We really need an import and convert all photos in thread to thumbnails option on the downloads page!!! This going back and photo upload option really is a pain.
I may try in time, however, I did the first two posts and BLAH!!!

 

[MadScience]

Outstanding work on the car! Also outstanding work taking the time to share this with us.

I have on 04 GTI with 210k miles on it. Hmmmm

 

[Deanpenner]

Great work putting this together! I have been following it for a project I’m doing. I have a 03 wagon that was a 1.8t auto and I used a 02 golf manual as a donor. It starts and runs and everything works except the glow plugs, there no power going to them and the light only comes on for 1 second if that. What I’m wondering is did you have to do anything with getting power to 121/88 on the ecu? Through 14a/10?