TDI Ranger Build

[greengeeker]

Kudos. Ranger is what a truck should be. ALH is what an engine should be.

Great build. Wish I had the time and the money to do that to my civic. I think that a little TDI civic would be great. I tried to find an import that came with the 1.6 TDI but they are impossible to find, even just for the engine for a straight swap.

Thanks guys. On another note, I think I'm having my best mileage tank yet. Crossing fingers I break into the 40's with this tank.

 

[Kriesel]

Thanks guys. On another note, I think I'm having my best mileage tank yet. Crossing fingers I break into the 40's with this tank.

And I'll be expecting a call that you need some fuel on the side of the road today?

 

[greengeeker]

Next week. I'm just passing half a tank now.

 

[greengeeker]

Thanks guys. On another note, I think I'm having my best mileage tank yet. Crossing fingers I break into the 40's with this tank.

Meh. 39.3. One of these days I'll have a tank where I'm not towing a vw, hauling stuff, dynoing or generally beating the piss out of it....

Attended a local gtg and finally had [took] some time to screw around with the Ranger.

1) Finally mounted up my cruise control stalk. It is silly it took me so long to get to this as it took maybe and hour total. I'll snap some pictures of the finished product and post later. Now all I need to do is work on that muscle memory - any time I need to adjust or set cruise I still reach below the column for the dangling stalk.

2) Really played around and fabbed up the start to a hood stack.

hehe...figured out a good way to mark where the hole in the hood needs to go.

Things I need to do in the near future.

1) get mcnally gauge rebuilt (if I can get them to answer emails...)
2) install pyrometer + boost guage. On the pyrometer, do I have to use the mcnally-provided one or can I use the mca pyrometer that i have?
3) dyno stage 2 (fuel + tune)
4) order clutch
5) convert gtb over to vacuum actuated, install stop screw, etc
6) fab turbo mounting
...you get the picture.

 

[Growler]

let us know how your contact with mcnally goes.. mine has dropped about 4 LEDs so I only have 1 number set that fully lights up.. the other two are only a guess about what number they read..

 

[greengeeker]

1 year update

I finished the truck as a Father's Day present to myself in 2013 so I've just surpassed the 1 year mark.

I've been very happy with the results of the swap. Every time I get in the truck I enjoy the work and time I put into the effort. I've been keeping track of every drop of diesel put in the truck and at just under 10k miles I'm averaging exactly 38mpg and keep in mind I've used this truck as a truck.

Only a couple issues so far with the swap:
1) Only electrical "gremlin" was laughable when I forgot to tighten down the little nut on the fuel shutoff solenoid.
2) The truck is running a little hotter coolant temps than I anticipated. I'm not sure if it has to do with the design of my cooling system, pump cavitation, or clogged core from the wrecker yard car. All I know is there is no way I can hook up my a/c system with the coolant running as hot as it is - would only exacerbate the issue.

Minor non-swap related issues:
1) my non-oem coolant flange on the end of the head is warped slightly and leaks small amounts of coolant
2) back edge of my valve cover weeps a little oil
3) As soon as I installed my r520 nozzles I have been having an issue with leaking return hoses when I do hard WOT pulls
4) my driver's side inner tie rod is SHOT. Need to replace that guy asap.

Or course I need to get going on stage 4 (gtb2056, 11mm IP, retune) so I can have some more fun.

 

[Growler]

I am glad you are having fun with it, but I question the desire to increase power/output when you mention more than one cooling system issue in your previous post.

are you going to repair/check on the coolant flange leak, the restricted fuel return system, and the running hotter than expected issues first?

I have no idea why there aren't trucks like this from the factory over here. many people could use a fuel efficient small truck like this..

Enjoying the thread. hoping to someday take on a project TDI swap myself.

 

[JaysinSpaceman]

When you say it is running hotter then expected, how much higher is the temperature running then the thermostat? I believe that the thermostat in these engines is about 195-200F. What is the temperature drop across the inlet and outlet of the radiator? This is an important one to know if the radiator is sized appropriately (rule of thumb here is that the area of the rad. core is 20% more square inches then the engine has in cubic inches of displacement). If you have a 200F thermostat and the engine is running at 225F then the radiator is plugged up or undersized or lacking adequate air flow. Does it run hot on the highway or in traffic? If it is fine on the highway but hot in traffic then it is likely not enough fan, if it is hot on the highway then it is likely not enough or clogged radiator (fans only help below 35 mph). If you can answer some of these questions I am sure I can help narrow down the cooling issue.

Jaysin

 

[jimbote]

what thermostat are you running?....I put an advance auto 87 celsius and my truck runs around 200-210 all day long (with the old t stat it couldn't muster 180) ....so the cooling system is adequate ....how did you route your hoses? is the rad original to the truck?

 

[greengeeker]

are you going to repair/check on the coolant flange leak, the restricted fuel return system, and the running hotter than expected issues first?

Oh, definitely. I'm at least a few months away from installing the new turbo which gives me time to make these repairs.

 

[greengeeker]

When you say it is running hotter then expected, how much higher is the temperature running then the thermostat? I believe that the thermostat in these engines is about 195-200F. What is the temperature drop across the inlet and outlet of the radiator? This is an important one to know if the radiator is sized appropriately (rule of thumb here is that the area of the rad. core is 20% more square inches then the engine has in cubic inches of displacement). If you have a 200F thermostat and the engine is running at 225F then the radiator is plugged up or undersized or lacking adequate air flow. Does it run hot on the highway or in traffic? If it is fine on the highway but hot in traffic then it is likely not enough fan, if it is hot on the highway then it is likely not enough or clogged radiator (fans only help below 35 mph). If you can answer some of these questions I am sure I can help narrow down the cooling issue.

what thermostat are you running?....I put an advance auto 87 celsius and my truck runs around 200-210 all day long (with the old t stat it couldn't muster 180) ....so the cooling system is adequate ....how did you route your hoses? is the rad original to the truck?

I fitted a radiator that was pulled from a junkyard beetle so performance should be similar to any tdi where the temps take a while to reach 190 and then don't stray from there AND the fans don't need to come on to maintain this temp. I'm running an idparts wahler thermostat.

When I first put the truck together with the stage 1 tune my temps were very consistent at 197 during normal driving but would get as high as 202ish when working the truck hard. I don't know exactly when things changed but I'm now pretty consistent at 202 during normal driving. I have noticed that when I am sitting at a light my temps will drop slightly back down to 197 but climb as soon as I get going on the highway again. I recently towed a mk4 and temps got up around 207.

As far as routing goes my radiator hoses are the same routing as a mk4 just the engine is longitudinally oriented. I have eliminated the vw coolant reservoir and am instead using a remote coolant fill with a 15psi cap. This is working as it should drawing coolant from the overflow tank when needed.

The dearation port on the back of the head is routed to the return line (difficult to see in this picture) going back to the hard water pipe (headed back to water pump).

So as you guys hinted, I could simply have a clogged up core, insufficient airflow. I'm also thinking of these possibilities:
1) airflow coming into the front of the truck is bypassing the radiator altogether due to no ducting in front of cores
2) not fully dearating
3) ??

I'm pretty sure the pump isn't cavitating because I've removed the reservoir - With the temps I'm running the thermostate should be wide open providing all the coolant the pump would ever want.

I can install a couple thermocouples before and after the radiator to see the delta. I can also manually switch on the fan to see how this affects temperatures while driving down the highway (I really doubt the low speed fans would have any affect). Because I have several splices in my hoses I can also install a sight glass to see how much air is in the system.

Thanks for the help you guys.

 

[jimbote]

honestly i don't think you have an issue ... that's what my truck runs normally and it's all in the t stat ... i bet your stat has just "settled in" as they do tend to migrate in temperature over time ... i was happy to see my truck run near boiling when i swapped thermostats after the original couldn't get to 180 ... what matters is how the rad is cooling, you can laser the lower hose to be sure it's working .... but if your running the stock vw rad mounted fan switch and the fan is not even coming on at low speed i wouldn't sweat it .... EDIT~...just wanted to add that if you look at the fan switch operating specs it gives a temp of:
stage 1 (low speed)
on...............................197 to 206
off...............................183 to 195
stage 2(high speed)
on...............................210 to 221
off...............................195 to 208
keep in mind the fan switch is at the bottom of the rad and that is the coolest part of the whole system ...these temps reflect actual on/off temps and not what the CTS is reporting which will always be HIGHER than the bottom of the rad....it takes quite a heat saturated cooling system to set these off ....again shoot the bottom hose with laser therm and see where your at....I hazard to guess you will be well below 200 with the CTS reporting near boiling....

 

[greengeeker]

Thanks Jim. I could install an indicator light to let me know exactly when and if the fans kick on.

I'll measure the water temp coming out the lower hose.

 

[jimbote]

after spirited drive to my sisters to work on her fridge....


at cylinder head outlet flange ...


lower rad hose ... cool to the touch!!

 

[darkhorse]

Nick, if I didn't say so, thanks for the Ranger ride. Very impressive acceleration even with a vnt 15.

 

[Kriesel]

I have noticed that when I am sitting at a light my temps will drop slightly back down to 197 but climb as soon as I get going on the highway again. I recently towed a mk4 and temps got up around 207.

So as you guys hinted, I could simply have a clogged up core, insufficient airflow. I'm also thinking of these possibilities:
1) airflow coming into the front of the truck is bypassing the radiator altogether due to no ducting in front of cores
2) not fully dearating
3) ??

Option 3, check the airflow direction of the fans?

I say this because when I first did the diesel swap in my Wrangler, it would cool down at a stop, and overheat going down the highway. I found out that the fan was blowing forward, and so going down the highway would mean no flow over the radiator, with the fan pushing forward and wind pushing back. Checked my wiring, change direction (the fan blades on mine were bi-directional...), bam! No more overheating.

 

[greengeeker]

Option 3, check the airflow direction of the fans?

I say this because when I first did the diesel swap in my Wrangler, it would cool down at a stop, and overheat going down the highway. I found out that the fan was blowing forward, and so going down the highway would mean no flow over the radiator, with the fan pushing forward and wind pushing back. Checked my wiring, change direction (the fan blades on mine were bi-directional...), bam! No more overheating.

I did check fan operation when I first wired them and low speed functions properly pulling the airflow through the cores the correct direction.

 

[greengeeker]

Woohoo! 40mpg!

Last four tanks: (miles/gal: MPG)
715.4 /18.187 = 39.3
710.8 /18.035 = 39.4
977.2 /24.375 = 40.1
753.1 /18.244 = 41.3

New goal is to get an 800 mile tank on this bad boy.

 

[darkhorse]

Last four tanks: (miles/gal: MPG)
715.4 /18.187 = 39.3
710.8 /18.035 = 39.4
977.2 /24.375 = 40.1
753.1 /18.244 = 41.3

New goal is to get an 800 mile tank on this bad boy.

Looks like you may be slowly taking you foot out of it.

 

[greengeeker]

Looks like you may be slowly taking you foot out of it.

Maybe. I changed the oil and added a shroud around the charge air cooler to hel force airflow through it. Not sure what affect that might have (don't believe intake temps were an issue before) on mileage. If nothing else I would expect it to increase drag but whatever. This last tank did have a few more highway miles on it than normal.

 

[Farmboy]

...977.2 /24.375 = 40.1...
New goal is to get an 800 mile tank on this bad boy.

. . . ?

977.2 > 800 . . . ?

What did I miss . . . ?

 

[Rockwell]

. . . ?

977.2 > 800 . . . ?

What did I miss . . . ?

The Ranger fuel tank isn't 24.3 gallons so I am assuming at some point during that tank he put 5 gallons in then added that 5 gallons into his calculations on the next fill up.

 

[greengeeker]

^^exactly right. I think my tank is right around 18.5 gallons so I'll need to get north of 43mpg to hit the 800 miles. Sounds like a tall order.

 

[storx]

GreenGeeker, have you ever thought about keeping the current turbo and just adding an wastegated version of the larger turbo you want to upgrade to?? it would lower your EGT's much more overall and allow you to keep the down low spool of the small VNT turbo.. you have sooo much room to make this turbo fit..

 

[greengeeker]

 

[Growler]

repeat after me class..

TURBO LAG.

lol

 

[greengeeker]

repeat after me class..

TURBO LAG.

lol

There would probably be lag with 10 TDI's breathing through this big guy.

 

[Growler]

is right.

 

[storx]

I didn't mean to add a super market size hair dryer. ... But something in the gt25-gt28r range

 

[greengeeker]

I didn't mean to add a super market size hair dryer. ... But something in the gt25-gt28r range

I know storx - just having fun.

I'm inspired by Jfettig and his compounds but I'm a long ways away from having the engine to support that sort of setup. Maybe someday I'll get there but for now I'll stick with my stock head and bottom end and just slap a gtb on it to see how power delivery is in the truck.