TDI Cam Timing Adjustment (for rough idle) How-to (with pics)

Hurst89

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
Well, after reading the rough idle thread, I finally did my cam timing adjustment. I took pictures of the mechanical part of the adjustment, my computer screen on my laptop doesn't show up very well on my camera, so maybe someone else can upload those pictures. Anyway, here is a little writeup on the adjustment.

Before starting) Get your vagcom fired up, and with the car warmed up and idling, go to the Engine measuring blocks, group 4, and the 4th box over (It is the furthest rightward idle stabilization box) and see what your value is. It is supposed to be between 2-5 (positive values, not negative). Your adjustments ARE NOT to be done according to the 2nd box "ign timing" box (I did this at first and realized it wouldn't change). Also, my car could go to 8.9 on the idle stabilization you are watching and still start, so the car will let it run too far advanced.

1) Pop the hood and remove the engine cover (just like you have to do on most anything lol)

2) Find the boost hose that runs in front of the timing belt cover, and using a screw driver or, as I found easier, a paint can opener, pry the clips on the boost hose ends off all the way.


Engine side of the boost hose


Intercooler side of the boost hose

You will see the clip I am talking about is a thin silver wirey piece. These two pictures show the clip removed and slid back.

3) Undo the T-30 bolt that holds the boost pipe onto the head. (The only torx bit you will encounter in this repair!)


The torx bit

4) Lightly pull up on the fuel and coolant hoses which are in the little clips on the plastic part of the boost pipe

5) Wiggle the boost pipe out from the engine bay. Mine had a good coating of oil in it, which was really surprising to me, but the good news was the cleanliness of the egr throttling butterfly and the part of the intake/EGR system I could see. All I had was just a little coating of soot on one side of the inside. Also, a good time to make sure the butterfly is working fine.



6) Undo the two spring clips which hold the top half of the timing belt cover on. There is one that is easy to see right in front of you when you get the boost pipe out of the way, but there is a second one directly opposite of the front one on the back of the cover. Both are accelable with a shorter screw driver, but you can pop them with just your fingers too.


The back one is right in the middle of this picture


The front clip
*Note, the clips are attached to the plastic cover, so don't pull on the wrong end and break something.

7)Pull the timing cover slightly upward so it clears the cam pulley, and then wiggle it out of the engine bay (I know that doesn't sound really formal or manual-like, but "wiggle" is about the best term for describing how to get these things out of this space).


Top timing belt cover off!

8) Loosen the 3 smaller bolts with a 13mm socket and ratchet (or a wrench if you so wish)



9) Using an 18mm socket on the center bolt (or a wrench I guess if you can get it to fit), turn the cam sprocket slightly clockwise (It will kind of slip loose all of a sudden, so be ready to quit applying pressure and it will take quite a bit of pressure to get it to turn). Once you get it turned about 1/8 of an inch, tighten the 3 bolts down to 18 ftlbs and fire up the engine (make sure you are not in a dusty environment, if you are, then reconnect the boost hose and make sure you put towels in all the connections exposed and in the ends of the boost pipe).


18mm socket

10) Your Engine measuring block group 4, furthest right box should read between -2.5 and 2.5 (changed to updated spec). I got mine to 4.9 (again, engine fully warmed up and idling WITHOUT A/C OR DEFROSTERS OR ANY OTHER ELECTRICAL/ENGINE LOADS (this applies for the initial reading also) (I still have it set on this, will probably change over Christmas Break).

11) If you have a number higher than positive 5, then you have advanced the timing too much. If your car doesn't start, you have advanced the timing a fair bit too far. Don't panic though, it is easy to tune back in. If your timing is not between 2-5 yet, then repeat the last steps to advance it more.

12) If you went too far, then loosen the three bolts on the cam pulley again. Now, there are two ways to do this. You may have lock with just turning the center bolt counter clockwise, but if you are like me, I had the bolt begin to loosen (again, if this happens, don't panic, just retorque the bolt). You can also, loosen the 3 bolts, then get in the car, and just barely flip the starter. This causes the pulley to go to the full retarded position in the bolt slots, so you can start from scratch again. Now go about advancing it to spec.

If you have an MFD display with MPG, it may need to be recallibrated, I cannot say for sure personally, but have read others have had a problem with it. I noticed the power band seemed to go to redline now, maybe a hair past. Also, the car is a lot smoother idling, seems to have more torque at idle, and sounds a hair quiter at idle.

Reassembly, just reverse these instructions. Make sure you slide the timing belt cover down, under the bottom cover. It takes some "wiggling" to get it back in, but it usually lines itself up nicely. Also, watch the wire that runs right by the top camshaft pulley. Make sure it is OUTSIDE the cover.

Tools I used:


(paint opener, T-30 torx driver, 13mm socket, 18mm socket)

If you have any questions, let me know.

Hurst
 
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maloosheck

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Location
Sterling, VA
TDI
2K6 1K2 BRM, 2K8 7L6 BWF, 85 16 MF
Thanks for the pictures. I need to do this as well. I just did not have time yet...
 

Mach1

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
TDI
05.5 Jetta 5 spd, 06 Jetta DE DSG, 04 F250 6L, 2000 F250 7.3L
You can see the little window with the pointer and 'teeth', this is what I used for reference, so I didn't bump the timing too much, then if you need to turn it back you have a reference.

Good write up Hurst...
 

hutchman

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
Am I looking at the right place?

I have the latest Vag-COM 805 Hex+CAN.

I go to Engine, measure blocks, group 4. The box (4-4) says something about Tortion and says the range is from -3 to +3 and mine is reading -1.5.

Am I looking at the right place?
 

SootHappens

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Scappoose, OR
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
The new version of the vag-com software no longer says "idle stabilization"

I can't go look right now, but I'm sure it's still group 4 block 4 you are concerned with...
 

hutchman

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
SootHappens said:
The new version of the vag-com software no longer says "idle stabilization"

I can't go look right now, but I'm sure it's still group 4 block 4 you are concerned with...
I was pretty sure I was looking where you guys said but the label on that block threw me and then when I went into the Advanced measure section and selected block 4-4 it said the range was something like -3 to +3 and you guys said 2-5 so I just wanted to make sure before I did anything. I have the TB tools for my VE and I've been wanting to pull the valve cover and check it out so maybe this will motivate me to open it up and check it out some. TB change on this car isn't too far away so I need to check out the BRM specific tools I'm missing and where they go.

I blew away version 704 but I think I have a few versions that are earlier. When I get the time and can get access to the car (she keeps the roads hot with it) I'll play around some more.
 

Hurst89

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
Where is the official timing limits for this engine? I couldn't find them in the bentley manual, but I am not very good at finding stuff in that manual yet. I just want to make sure my 4.9 is not too advance. I noticed it doesn't lope any more, but I feel a kind of murmur every once in a while, almost like the engine overfuels and underfuels for a split second, then it is smooth as a whistle. It does this about every 8-10 seconds. Is this possibly the DMF wobbling around causing the engine to over fuel and underfuel?

Hurst
 

hutchman

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
Homie don't play DMF games anymore! :D
 

Hurst89

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Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
Yeah, I just need to find a used flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in a junk yard so I can take them to the clutch shop to get redone. This guy has done great work and done the work at a lot less than new or reman parts cost, so if I can find the good cores, I will just use him and then replace the DMF... everything just takes time and money (I don't have much money with the rising fuel prices, and I don't have much time with extra hours I am working to pay for fuel/parts...)

Hurst
 

06SpiceRedTDI

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Jun 12, 2006
Location
Longview, WA
TDI
2006 Spice Red TDI Jetta, 2006.5 DSG Platinum Gray TDI
Hurst89 said:
Yeah, I just need to find a used flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate in a junk yard so I can take them to the clutch shop to get redone. This guy has done great work and done the work at a lot less than new or reman parts cost, so if I can find the good cores, I will just use him and then replace the DMF... everything just takes time and money (I don't have much money with the rising fuel prices, and I don't have much time with extra hours I am working to pay for fuel/parts...)

Hurst
http://www.boraparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=65

not a bad price if someone wants to stick with the DMF setup.
 

Hurst89

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
If/when I do the clutch, I am going to probably go SMF, both for simplicty and my disliking of the DMF's engagement (really grabby and touchy). Also, the SMF is quite a bit less expensive and a more proven design. I am just wondering if the little jerk I feel the engine give is a result of the DMF. I just rolled 50k, so I am not under too much warrenty any more (I think just engine and transmission right?)

Hurst
 

hutchman

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI Pkg 1, 5 Spd, Graphite Blue / 2002 Jetta GLS, Black w/tan leather
Hurst, what is your build date? Mine is July 05. I went SMF in both cars. Don't want to ever deal with a DMF going out again ... which reminds me, I need to post the pictures of the failed DMF!
 
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dhdenney

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 23, 2005
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2012 Audi A3 TDI Ibis white
Hurst89 said:
If/when I do the clutch, I am going to probably go SMF, both for simplicty and my disliking of the DMF's engagement (really grabby and touchy). Also, the SMF is quite a bit less expensive and a more proven design. I am just wondering if the little jerk I feel the engine give is a result of the DMF. I just rolled 50k, so I am not under too much warrenty any more (I think just engine and transmission right?)

Hurst
Yeah killed mine on a hill in a four way stop today. Everyone around me was pissed!
 

dhdenney

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 23, 2005
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2012 Audi A3 TDI Ibis white
No just killed the car for a second. I stopped on the hill and then without paying attention, it died. Had to slip it bad to get it took off. I have NO idea how it's lasted 62K miles.
 

SootHappens

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Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Scappoose, OR
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
62k is pretty good. I'm at 47k with the original clutch that has been choppy/grabby/downright awful since I purchased the car.
I think mine is starting to wear thin, as the release point is getting close to 'almost all the way out.'

Still Running Smooth Update
 

Hurst89

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
I'll have to look again, but I think it is a July 05 car. I know it is an early 05.5 model, and if membory serves me correctly, it was a July car.

Hurst
 

Mach1

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
TDI
05.5 Jetta 5 spd, 06 Jetta DE DSG, 04 F250 6L, 2000 F250 7.3L
My OEM clutch(RC2) has lasted 80000+, But this cam timing adjust has made it feel probably better then new, it doesn't shutter as bad as before the adjustment, Is this what you guys are seein?
 

Mach1

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Location
Spicewood, Tx.
TDI
05.5 Jetta 5 spd, 06 Jetta DE DSG, 04 F250 6L, 2000 F250 7.3L
Is it the clutch shuddering? Or is it the motor shuddering??



Is it the motor shuddering that takes out the clutch?
 

SootHappens

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Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Scappoose, OR
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
in my case it's most definitely the clutch... grabs like a rusty drum brake, especially when cold.

The cam adjustment fixed my occasional lumpy idle
 

06SpiceRedTDI

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Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Location
Longview, WA
TDI
2006 Spice Red TDI Jetta, 2006.5 DSG Platinum Gray TDI
This thread needs to be Stickied, This is absolutely the very best thing that has ever been done to my car, I have fallen in love with my Jetta again since the timing issue was corrected. It hasn't even shook, stumbled, or studdered 1 time since the fixed a month and a half ago. I am now on my way to 260,000+ more miles of enjoyment
 

wjdell

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Joined
May 17, 2006
Location
Central Florida
TDI
06 Jetta TDI DSG PKG 1 17" VV Campy White/Beige
You say this timing setting is to be between 2-5 - so whats optimum -
fuel economy vs performance what ?
 

Hurst89

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2005.5 Pkg 0 5spd TDI
I have mine set at 4.9 hot idling. I also got my best mpg on a tank the other day since installing my new wheels (a year ago). I managed to get just under 45 mpg with about 80-85% highway travel going an actual 75ish mph. Before, the most I could get out of a trip like this would be just above 42 mpg, so a 2.5 mpg gain or more is what I have gotten on one tank, but I am not sure how good of data that is. I will know a little better this summer when I get to driving around some more on the open road. My MFD is really low now though, reading around 5 mpg low compared to the 1 or 2 mpg high it was reading. Has anyone found where the timing limits are in the Bentley manual?

Hurst
 

dhdenney

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Joined
Oct 23, 2005
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2012 Audi A3 TDI Ibis white
Hey I'm gonna throw this out there. I wonder how this mod would fare with a tuning box like mine?
 

06SpiceRedTDI

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Jun 12, 2006
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2006 Spice Red TDI Jetta, 2006.5 DSG Platinum Gray TDI
dhdenney said:
Hey I'm gonna throw this out there. I wonder how this mod would fare with a tuning box like mine?
Since doing this fix is actually just setting the timing to where it is supposed to be in the first place it should be what the box was designed for, Soothappens has done this fix and his car has an aligator tune.BTW There is a noticable power increase in low end torque even on a non chipped car, that is even more noticable on a tuned car.
 
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