whitedog
Veteran Member
speedfreak what did you start at?
1) Right counter clockwise will back it down to 0 then negativedschein said:Just did this mod over the weekend on my 06; went from -2.x to 2.9. Happy to report there is no more rough idle, it feels like there is more power (could all be in my head), peak boost has gone up along with sustained boost.
Some people have posted about backing down this number. Two qestions on that:
1: Simply turn the 18MM bolt anti-clockwise?
2: If it's within spec, why?
First cut the resonator and muffler and straight pipe those two sections no need for them at all. (-) or less weight, more flow and its not loud either.SpeedFreek said:Ok, I did it. I am at about 2 right now and have had NO rough idle, the only problem is that I smoke quite a bit at higher RPMs. The onramp to the freeway looks like doomsday after I get on the freeway but only if I really get on the pedal. I do have the RC1 + on it and havent gotten the muffler removed yet, proably will get that done this week to see if that helps.
Would going back to 0 help anything? I like how the car is now with the exception of the black clouds at full throttle/high RPMs.
Hi speedfreek,SpeedFreek said:Ok, I did it. I am at about 2 right now and have had NO rough idle, the only problem is that I smoke quite a bit at higher RPMs. The onramp to the freeway looks like doomsday after I get on the freeway but only if I really get on the pedal. I do have the RC1 + on it and havent gotten the muffler removed yet, proably will get that done this week to see if that helps.
Would going back to 0 help anything? I like how the car is now with the exception of the black clouds at full throttle/high RPMs.
Double checked mine this AM on the way to work and it's at 3.9. As for smoke, since I switched to B100 (many tanks ago) there is no smoke , so I'll log my EGT's on my drive home tonight to see where I'm at. At this point it looks like I'll be rolling it back to zero.SBAtdijetta said:1) Right counter clockwise will back it down to 0 then negative
2) Spec is very lose term here, and so is the spec...(-3 to 3 is a long way) If you have lots of smoke, then back it down. More smoke = > higher EGTs = Bad for your turbo.
jsrmonster said:Hi speedfreek,
You need to put the mechanical cam-to-crank timing at TDC. Advancing your cam timing will smoke and kill your economy, and retarding it will give lumpy idle and poor performance too. Simply put the crank at TDC and pin the cam (by adjusting the cam pully w/3 bolts). You can see the mark/dimple on the crank pully, so simply line it up with the mark/indentation (at 12 oclock) on the cover. You can also find the TDC mark on the flywheel, or for perfection, use the arrows on the crank holder and crank sprocket when changing the TB ;-) (edit. if you don't know what you are doing, get a mechanic to help you or you could bang valves into pistons)
It seems like many folks are just arbitrarly setting this with vagcom while engine is either cold, warm, or hot. It seems that many are screwing up their timing and I need to reset it on many cars I tune now :-( Check it cold or unplug 3 temp sensors and AC off, for correct reading (coolant inlet/exit, and fuel temp sensors).
Jeff
Lol Haha yes you caught me, I left you off my mistake. Randy got mine set up straight when I was up there. From +2 back to 0.Mach1 said:Set it straight up..Didn't someone else suggest this..Steve??
Its cam timing as well and the cam timing needs to be set up at 0 degrees..
hahaha, yes, I know I am a bit slow at first but then figure it out, well eventually... lolMach1 said:Steve, you are grasping itnow(grasshopper). One variable at a time. later you can go back - a bit..
After my morning drive (~75 miles) I'm still at .5 on idle and 0 under load (when driving).dschein said:Rolled my timing back to 0.5 tonight, now to see how she drives in the AM.
While putting things back together I found a hose had been rubbing against my harness and had rubbed through the insulation on 1 wire. So the big perk is that I found that before it broke and was able to fix it.
So i have to also loosen the 18mm bolt?? I am a little confused. I loosened all three 13mm bolts and then turned the 18mm clockwise as posted in the first post, however the whole TB moved forward, nothing came loose. Do i have to install the cam tool, then loosen the three 13mm bolts and then turn the 18mm bolt clockwise? This will make it move forward without spinning the TB?Mach1 said:Johnny, I just bump the wrench..The bolts have to be completely loose. Then you have to bump the center bolt, it takes a bit to break the sprocket loose from the cam..
The TB cam tool is supposed to hold the sprocket while seperating the other cam sprocket part.
You need Vag-Com otherwise you will never know the exact reading.Spine said:Is there any way for me to put my timing back to 0 without using a vag-com, such as using the timing marks?
Thanks,
Mike
Yes, you don't need vagcom to set the base mechanical timing of cam-to-crank at zero. You just need some working knowledge about cars. (PD's don't need vagcom, but rotaries need it to set pump timing.)Spine said:Is there any way for me to put my timing back to 0 without using a vag-com, such as using the timing marks?
Thanks,
Mike