TDI build thread

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Hey everyone, new to VW’s and this forum. Just recently bought 2 Jettas (both tdi). I have a background in diesel trucks and have always admired the small displacement diesels! With increasing fuel prices and lack of common sense I decided to jump in head first and buy not 1 but 2 mk4 TDI Jettas for 1k each! I plan on combining the best parts of both to make one that I can use as a daily driver back and forth to work.

The first one (green) is a 2000 manual 212k, it ran and drove (seemed underpowered) but was definitely neglected and needed alot of attention inside and out.

The second silver is a 2002 auto 200k, PO blew the auto trans and wanted to do a manual swap. He got about 1/3 into it and decided to quit. Body and overall condition is much better on this car so this is the car I will be keeping




The guy I bought the 02 from bought a lot of the necessary swap parts but not all of them. He bought a trans from a 2.0 which I understand will fit but has a different gear ratio. Anyway my plan is to take the motor and trans out of the 00 use the trans in the 02, take the motor out of both do seals and timing on the 02 while it’s out of the car, mate the trans and motor out of the car and then reinstall. Simple right!

I’m a big fan of forums. I have already gained wealth of information from this and many others. My goal is to establish a relationship with the online tdi community and learn from others experience with these little tdi go karts! I will be updating this thread (slowly) as I go.
 

Moparmax

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2022
Location
Iowa
TDI
2000 Jetta
Nice finds. I am also relatively new to the TDI community with my recent purchase of a 2000 Jetta earlier this month. From what I’ve seen working on it so far, they are great little cars and excellent little diesels.
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Our first one came from Florida. 52mpg coming home and drove like a car that was bigger, I was sold on them.
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
I barely drove the green one. Just enough to see what was going on with it. It was really fun though, also had been a while since I drove a manual!! Not sure, but it felt like it was in what I've read to be limp mode. The power was pretty linear, definitely felt like there was no boost, I floored it and it went absolutely nowhere.
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
Nice southern low rust cars. My 2nd came from Florida, and third from NC. If the green shell is anything resembling comparable I'd run down with a truck and dolly with very little time thinking about it... :) For me, keep it as parts and with that supply of bits, you are assured of never needing them. and a second car makes a *VERY FINE teaching tool to learn how to take stuff apart inside without wrecking the good stuff.

Douglas
 

lost1wing

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Location
USA, Georgia, Homerville
TDI
2003, 2003, 2002, 2000 ,2000
I too have a few of these. I drive a green 2000. Swapped a few engines and transmissions, but never did a conversion. I believe I've done everything that involves the conversion just for maintenance sake. Good find!
 

lost1wing

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Location
USA, Georgia, Homerville
TDI
2003, 2003, 2002, 2000 ,2000
I truly wish I had access to items like this on the northern plains.....but I don't.
You would faint if you saw the fleet between me and my neighbor. Only 2 are gasoline(bought for sheet metal). I started with 3, I now have 6. My friend has 10 or more 99-03 50 or so older ones, as well as some other vw diesel pickups. He never sells anything, just a collector.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I have two 03's sitting in a field not far from my little garage. Both of them are automatics. One has a broken TB at 152k miles and the other has a bad transmission at 267k miles. I also have enough parts to build an ALH engine. And, of course, I have an 03 that I drive almost daily.
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
They match now ha. Got the front clips off fluids drained.. accessory stuff pulled off.. fuel filter wiper fluid reservoir intercooler etc. Little bit of oil in each intercooler. Not sure if that is normal? Not a lot, like 2 soda bottle caps full. Seems like it would be normal just considering how it’s routed so low.
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Also what is the plug on top of the intercooler for? Is it boost reference? If not is there a stock boost sensor or does it have to be installed.
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH
Also what is the plug on top of the intercooler for? Is it boost reference? If not is there a stock boost sensor or does it have to be installed.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor plugs in to the top of the intercooler, it also serves as the IntakeAirTemperature (IAT) sensor.
Nice cars, way to dive into a project!

Ya the ECU uses it to determine fueling, you can also see the numbers it's reading by plugging in a scanguage to the obd port
 

TwistedSmoke

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2016
Location
Milford ,Pa
TDI
03 Jetta tdi
Great Start to a nice build. My question is where did you find these cars? Cause i am looking for an affordable car or 2 for parts and a new build and everything so far has been pretty expensive so far
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Great Start to a nice build. My question is where did you find these cars? Cause i am looking for an affordable car or 2 for parts and a new build and everything so far has been pretty expensive so far
One was in south FL the other was kinda central FL there are quite a few. There is another one being parted out pretty close to me rn I think he wants $500 for the motor. I was gonna buy it but I figured an extra $500 for the whole car was worth it. Several PD’s too.
 

benmarks

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2003
Location
Portland, OR
TDI
2004 Jetta GLS Sedan Platinum Gray
Florida cars may have their own issues, though. I almost bought a 2005 TDI Jetta from a dealer in Seattle. It had no title history and looked pristine on the outside. I brought my TDI guru on a road trip with me from Portland, and I was glad I did. He immediately pulled up an edge of the carpet and you could see a water line from where it had sat in floodwater. He hooked it up to VCDS and it had a ton of odd electrical issue. I didn't buy the car and went home to do more research, and apparently it's a common thing for hurricane-damaged Florida cars to be titled through Illinois (which I guess sheds their history for some reason) and then moved on to other states to be sold with "clean" titles. I discovered the car was originally purchased in Florida and lived there for many years before the title started moving around the country.
 
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NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
So I’ve got a few things done since my last post. And made a few discoveries. Ahhh the joys of buying someone else’s project 🤦‍♂️ I’m going to split this into 2 posts because it’s a lot, and they have 2 different topics/systems.
So the good news is the motor is out of the 02 Jetta!
My goals with the motor out are to do the timing belt WP etc. remove and clean turbo\check for vnt operation, the guy I bought the car from had a bunch of parts for it including a Rear main seal. Although it doesn’t appear to be leaking I would feel foolish to not replace it since the motor is out. Probably do the same w the oil pan gasket.
I bought this car with no transmission installed..so finding TDC with the flywheel is not an option for me. I’ve heard that TDC can be found on the crank pulley but it isn’t clear what the reference marks are. I plan on popping the valve cover and checkingTDC by the valves and by a piece of welding rod down the GP hole. A bit nervous thinking about doing it this way but I don’t have too many options.




As mentioned above the PO gave me loads of new parts.. including new motor mounts some new bolts and not one, but 2 clutches! One of the clutch kits has a flywheel which seems to be a SMF. I was planning on buying a new DMF. But with all the money ill be spending on this project it’s really hard to turn a blind eye to these clutches sitting on my work bench. The only thing is I don’t know anything about them. Im gonna post some pics and I would love to hear some opinions on them if you have any.

First is XTD. That’s the one that came w a flywheel
Second is M-pact.
I looked them up on eBay.. they seem to be lower end. The XTD I believe was a stage 2.

Also should be noted my plans for this car will be mild as far a performance. Stage one tune.. appropriate injectors in the future, stock turbo. 2.5 exhaust all the way out. And that’s it.
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Second post is all about struts. When went to pick up the car (silver jetta) I noticed about. 1/4in gap between the strut towers and the top of the strut, where the strut tightens at the top. Also be patient with me I’m not to familiar with strut anatomy. I brought it up to the PO and he recognized that that was an issue and the reason for it is that he didn’t install the struts properly.. ok.
So I pull the wheels of (a whole other story) and I see the strut tube at the bottom where it mounts to the caliper bracket is covered in tool marks like someone has been beating on it with a hammer.
Also further investigation finds that the back clip that the clamping bolt routs through is completely mangled and that the strut tube is not even flush with the strut housing with about .5 to .75 in of empty space..


The worst part is they were brand new bilstwin struts! He even changed the bushing mount and the bearing. Just did a terrible job. Not sure why I’m posting this other than to vent other than to say if you buy a project, go through it with a fine toothed comb!! But you all probably new that already.

Also.. a hack for people doing strut work. The 22mm special socket that is needed, if you don’t want to buy one, most auto zone or advance auto parts have a loan a tool program. In that program is a O2 sensor removing kit that you can rent that has a 22mm crows foot socket that is perfect for tightening or loosening the strut tower bolts.
The amount of special tools to work on these things is almost comical.
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
A 1/4" gap between the strut cap and body is totally normal with the car resting on the ground. That cap is there so the strut won't fall down when you jack up the car.

That strut is not seated fully in the steering knuckle, as you point out. But it won't be totally flush with the bottom. Looks very much like they installed the strut into the knuckle without using the spreader tool (or substitute). Hence the hammer marks, mangled tab, and not being seated.

At least those aren't good Billys.
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH
A 1/4" drive ratchet works awesome at opening up the gap to remove/install the strut into the knuckle.
When I put bilstein B6's in with poly upper mounts there was no gap at the top. ~40k later and still no gap.. I think the gap happens when the upper mounts squishes and deforms, or also if someone didn't counterhold the piston using that 22mm to tight everything up
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
The gap is normal.
It varies between manufacturers mounts because the durometer of the rubber isn't exact, nor are the stack up tolerances.

I had 3/8-1/2" gap per side on a complete suspension refresh a few years back. Been running once then with no issues. Running Billy TCs
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Just looked through the Bentley for any direction on how far down the strut should go down on the bearing housing. For installation, it just says reverse of disassembly haha. It probably has a seat somewhere I think I can feel it with my finger. Interesting about the gap, I would have never guessed that was normal. I know they are the entry level Bilstein's but they're probably nicer than anything I would've installed, just sucks to see them beat up needlessly.

Ive got a little extra work to do on the suspension, the driver side bearing housing is completely shot. The PO bought a new one but didn't install it, He also bought new tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Ill probably spend a day replacing all those components and then button it up by re installing the struts.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Just looked through the Bentley for any direction on how far down the strut should go down on the bearing housing. For installation, it just says reverse of disassembly haha. It probably has a seat somewhere I think I can feel it with my finger. Interesting about the gap, I would have never guessed that was normal. I know they are the entry level Bilstein's but they're probably nicer than anything I would've installed, just sucks to see them beat up needlessly.

Ive got a little extra work to do on the suspension, the driver side bearing housing is completely shot. The PO bought a new one but didn't install it, He also bought new tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Ill probably spend a day replacing all those components and then button it up by re installing the struts.
How far down the strut goes will depend on that ear with the bolt thru hole tack welded onto the strut (the one that's mangled on your strut). It's designed in a way that once you can push the bolt thru, it's at the right depth in the knuckle.
 

braddies

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Location
America
TDI
03 golf ALH
It probably has a seat somewhere I think I can feel it with my finger. Interesting about the gap, I would have never guessed that was normal. I know they are the entry level Bilstein's but they're probably nicer than anything I would've installed, just sucks to see them beat up needlessly.

Ive got a little extra work to do on the suspension, the driver side bearing housing is completely shot. The PO bought a new one but didn't install it, He also bought new tie rods, tie rod ends and ball joints. Ill probably spend a day replacing all those components and then button it up by re installing the struts.
I don't think the gap is normal. I think the gap is commonly seen and shows up on many many cars but it's still a symptom of something being "off."

If the bolt goes through then it's probably holding the strut, as it won't go through Unless the strut is in far enough that the divot is ligned up with the bolt hole.

Lol, the goal is to only need 1 alignment, Sullivan tire offers lifetime alignments for like 150, just in case you find a other part to replace after the first alignment
 

Zak99b5

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2021
Location
Albany NY
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
There's a lip at the bottom of the knuckle. If there weren't, the strut could drop down further and you be up the proverbial creek.

That tab is there for locating the strut, but that's all. It's not strong enough to support any load.

The gap is totally normal with a stock mount
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I don't think the gap is normal. I think the gap is commonly seen and shows up on many many cars but it's still a symptom of something being "off."
The gap is completely normal. It's designed like that.
There's a lip at the bottom of the knuckle. If there weren't, the strut could drop down further and you be up the proverbial creek.

That tab is there for locating the strut, but that's all. It's not strong enough to support any load.

The gap is totally normal with a stock mount
I understand the tab is not for load bearing. It's a thin piece of tack welded steel.

Hence the bolt and pinch clamp. It's merely there to set the general depth in the knuckle.

When you slide the bolt thru, you may not be bottomed on the machined lip. Or you may. It depends. But the pinch clamping force is what holds the strut in it's location.
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
How far down the strut goes will depend on that ear with the bolt thru hole tack welded onto the strut (the one that's mangled on your strut). It's designed in a way that once you can push the bolt thru, it's at the right depth in the knuckle.
Ahh yeah that adds up gonna have to bend it back maybe tack a weld
 

NFLTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2022
Location
FL
TDI
02 Jetta 00 Jetta
Pulled the intake off to access a stubborn valve cover bolt (I hate allen heads) and found a good bit off crud around the head intake port. Not sure what the best way clean this out. Only posts I can find are for the actual intake plenum not the head. I want to scrape it and suck up the crud w a vacuum… burning seems kinda easier and a little fun too ha. But don’t wanna melt any seals around it?


Also this 🙁
Allen heads SMH
 
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