blah-kay
Active member
Aftermarket, It's the Delphi one off of Idparts, Crankshaft Position Sensor G28 (A4 ALH).
Tdi ALH cutting power/jerking on acceleration
- Thread starter blah-kay
- Start date
blah-kay
Active member
Alright, so there's good news and bad news. The bad news is that the issue got so bad that the motor died, leaving me stranded in an intersection. It wouldn't restart until around 10 minutes later. The good news is that I logged it. I logged 1,2,11 and 1,4,11. Will post it below. I'm going to explain all the things leading up to it. Took the car for a grocery run. The problem started a little after I began to drive, it was moderate and random and progressively got worse. Parked and shopped, got back in the car, and had no problems for the beginning of the drive home, then again, progressively got worse. And when I stopped at a red light it killed and wouldn't turn back on. Waited 2 minutes, and tried again, it started but as soon as I hit the gas it killed again. Waited 5 more and it started and got me into a nearby parking lot. The car feels like it's cutting boost, my boost gauge shows me every time the car jerks the boost cuts and I hear the wastegate open. Also when floored in neutral it will not redline, will go up to 4k and wastegate opens and then the rpm lowers and sits at around 1.7k with the pedal floored. I did this at the beginning of my logs twice, you can see it there. I hope someone can help me figure this out so I can stop fighting with the car. Have been dealing with this for around 1 year on and off. If there is any other block that would be more useful to log, please let me know and I will try to log it when the problem comes back, which something tells me it won't be long. Thanks guys. LOG-01-001-004-011.xlsx LOG-01-001-002-011 Issue.xlsx
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
Delphi. Straight outta Jiangsu.
Just sayin'.
Just sayin'.
shoebear
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
- TDI
- 1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
I can't figure out how to download the files. I can view them, but I don't see an option to download.
blah-kay
Active member
You don't see it under file and save as?
shoebear
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
- TDI
- 1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
No, there is no File menu (when viewed on my phone). I'll try again tomorrow with my PC.
blah-kay
Active member
Just an update, it got so bad I literally can't drive the car for long or it will 100% kill me. Seems as it only kills once the oil gets to around 190F or so. I look around at ALH stalling at operating temp and it seems to be pointing to the crankshaft pos sensor. I'm going to buy an OEM, not the Jiangsu one 
, and install it and get back to yall.
, and install it and get back to yall.
shoebear
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
- TDI
- 1998 Jetta, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2005 New Beetle, 2013 Sportwagen
Here are the log graphed with JollyGreenGiant's plotter app.
LOG-01-001-004-011
LOG-01-001-002-011 Issue
Looks to me like the ECU is yanking the boost. FYI: The cold start injector is timing advance. I don't know what Mod. Piston V is. When the shudder happens, looks like you stomp on the pedal, advance goes high, injection quantity stays the same before stalling, but the Actual Boost (red line) falls off a cliff. The N75 (Charge Pressure) is rising and falling with actual boost. With Requested Boost (the blue line) staying high, the N75 signal should also remain high. So I would guess that the ECU (which controls the N75) is telling the N75 to back off, which it does, causing your boost collapse. The CPS is a decent guess, but I couldn't say for sure.
What are your current codes again?
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blah-kay
Active member
Current DTCs : P0671 P9672 P9673 P9674, these are glowplugs faults, I have them unplugged at the moment. and P0401 - EGR system: insufficient flow. I have an EGR delete.Here are the log graphed with JollyGreenGiant's plotter app.
LOG-01-001-004-011
LOG-01-001-002-011 Issue
Looks to me like the ECU is yanking the boost. FYI: The cold start injector is timing advance. I don't know what Mod. Piston V is. When the shudder happens, looks like you stomp on the pedal, advance goes high, injection quantity stays the same before stalling, but the Actual Boost (red line) falls off a cliff. The N75 (Charge Pressure) is rising and falling with actual boost. With Requested Boost (the blue line) staying high, the N75 signal should also remain high. So I would guess that the ECU (which controls the N75) is telling the N75 to back off, which it does, causing your boost collapse. The CPS is a decent guess, but I couldn't say for sure.
What are your current codes again?
Pending DTCs: P0216 - Commencement of Injection Valve (N108): Circuit Malfunction
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
For this, check the wire jacket for oil/fuel fouling. Happened to me. Had to get a new solenoid (N108).
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Well I don't know what Pending means
wonneber
Top Post Dawg
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- Oct 12, 2011
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- Monroe, NY, USA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I think it may mean there is some spec s/a boost requested in not within spec and waiting for short time to see if it comes into specs.
Sounds good in theory anyway.
blah-kay
Active member
Alright, I just replaced the CPS with a new OEM one and it didn't solve the problem. Also cutting no longer only happens when it's hot, it is now all the time, considering it tried to kill on me backing out of the spot to drive it. I'm back at square one.
Brett San Diego
Veteran Member
If all of your wiring is good, then I'm guessing ECU.
Your description of no power, unable to exceed 3,000 rpm, and P0216 is similar to my limp mode issue, which a new used ECU fixed.
forums.tdiclub.com
Brett
Your description of no power, unable to exceed 3,000 rpm, and P0216 is similar to my limp mode issue, which a new used ECU fixed.
P0234, P1441, P0245, P0216. Fixed with new ECU
2002 Jetta, wagon, manual. 431,000 miles. For about 2 years, I've had an intermittent overboost fault and check engine light. Occasionally, the boost would drop out while driving. Some driving conditions seemed to promote the issue like being under load in 4th or 5th gear and at higher rpm...
Brett
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BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
What codes are set now?
blah-kay
Active member
The codes are the same as they were before, no new codes. The only difference is that the pending code is now gone.
Randomwelder
New member
Any update by chance? I am starting to battle the same issue with my 03.
blah-kay
Active member
I'm shipping a new ECU to myself right now. After reading Brett's forum, I see many similar issues to mine. The ECU is worth a shot; I'm kind of at the point where I'm throwing parts at it. Will update after the install.
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
dcjkrueger
Veteran Member
I would try an OEM crankshaft position sensor. I had similar issues with my 03. Did not set a code for almost 2 years before a complete failure set the code. Not expensive and easy to change out.
GlowBugTDI
Veteran Member
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- Jul 20, 2018
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- Cambridge, MN
- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Post #43
blah-kay
Active member
Not yet, haven't had my multi-meter with me since I'm at school. I'll test it after the ECU install.
blah-kay
Active member
So, the ECU did not fix the issue. I've gone ahead and caved in and brought it to a shop. I need a car right now and don't have the time to keep throwing parts at it that won't fix it. I've been installing all the parts in the school parking lot where it has been sitting for the last like 2 months 
. I can't even drive to get groceries or anything, I'm just ready to have my car back and have someone else figure it out. I will update ya'll on what the source of the issue was when I get it back. Thank you for all the guidance and help, couldn't thank you guys enough.
. I can't even drive to get groceries or anything, I'm just ready to have my car back and have someone else figure it out. I will update ya'll on what the source of the issue was when I get it back. Thank you for all the guidance and help, couldn't thank you guys enough.
wonneber
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Location
- Monroe, NY, USA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I would think most if not all electrical glitches in the ECM would trigger a CEL and code.
Maybe just after this happens scan for codes before shutting the key off.
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blah-kay
Active member
All right, so the mechanic got back to me about the issue. it turns out the main connector for the IP wasn't plugged in all the way 
. I facepalmed too. To give context, I changed my IP from the manual one to the auto one about 2 years ago; I was 19 then so it's possible I made a mistake, but then again, the car worked properly for about a year, and then gave me issues after. The mechanic mentioned that there is an o ring/sealer in the plug that swells sometimes when unplugged. My connector was around 1mm or so not all the way in, just enough to make me think it was connected properly. I then asked if there was a clip on the connector (I don't remember if there is) he replied with no, no clip, so he said he "tied" it to keep it together all the way. He said he let the car idle for 2 hours and had no issues with the car trying to kill. What I'm thinking is when I changed the IP I connected it right, then as time went on, the o-ring might have swelled and started to back it out, and with my recent vibrations of shot transmission mount (fixed now) it probably continued to back out slowly. In terms of the motor killing when hot, it's a stretch, but maybe the heat expanded the outside of the connector making it looser, causing it to slip more. Keep in mind that this is just what I think might have been happening, I'm more than open to being corrected or wrong. I do not have the car back yet, so I cannot say if this fixed all my issues. I'll update you when I get some seat time in.
. I facepalmed too. To give context, I changed my IP from the manual one to the auto one about 2 years ago; I was 19 then so it's possible I made a mistake, but then again, the car worked properly for about a year, and then gave me issues after. The mechanic mentioned that there is an o ring/sealer in the plug that swells sometimes when unplugged. My connector was around 1mm or so not all the way in, just enough to make me think it was connected properly. I then asked if there was a clip on the connector (I don't remember if there is) he replied with no, no clip, so he said he "tied" it to keep it together all the way. He said he let the car idle for 2 hours and had no issues with the car trying to kill. What I'm thinking is when I changed the IP I connected it right, then as time went on, the o-ring might have swelled and started to back it out, and with my recent vibrations of shot transmission mount (fixed now) it probably continued to back out slowly. In terms of the motor killing when hot, it's a stretch, but maybe the heat expanded the outside of the connector making it looser, causing it to slip more. Keep in mind that this is just what I think might have been happening, I'm more than open to being corrected or wrong. I do not have the car back yet, so I cannot say if this fixed all my issues. I'll update you when I get some seat time in.
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
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- Nov 27, 2004
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- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
wait what? he idled the car for 2 hrs???????
Brett San Diego
Veteran Member
LOL. Well, thanks for getting back to the forum with the solution. This is good info. Too many times threads die out without a resolution posted.
There is a retaining clip on the connector. The mechanic answering with no is strange. He must have meant it's broken?
Brett
There is a retaining clip on the connector. The mechanic answering with no is strange. He must have meant it's broken?
Brett
GlowBugTDI
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- Joined
- Jul 20, 2018
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- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Diesel truck owners- "its a diesel, they can idle all day"
.To be fair at least the guy was thorough and giving his best attempt to not send the car back unfixed. I've let mine idle for an hr in the past due to the infamous Minnesota goodbye.
Haha the polar opposite of the Irish goodbye.
blah-kay
Active member
So, I've been driving the car for about a week now, and so far all my boost and fuel-related issues are solved, just some annoying issues remain like a vibration at idle and bad cv axle hubs. So if you are having a similar issue reading this year down the line, check your connections! Thanks for everyone's help!