TDI AHU to 93 Eurovan

[Josh_WA]

After reading just about all the TDI into Eurovan posts from a few different forums over the years, I’ve decided that it’s my turn to delve into the fray. I had been liking the idea for some time, but just seemed out of my technical reach. We just bought a 2014 TDI jetta in the summer of 2014 and have loved the car. I think the enjoyment of driving that has pushed me over the edge to plunge into my deep end. And this is deep water for me. I have experience changing out wheel bearings, brakes, water pumps, gaskets and things of that level. Small pull and replace items. Nothing of this degree. But the internet has definitely evolved into any amazing library of information of how to, and lots of experienced converters who are willing to offer help. At this point, I’m working most of this project on my own, but do have a friend who will be loaning me his skills and engine lift to do the pulling of the old and placing of the new. I plan on completing the project by New Year if all goes as expected. I’m trying to keep this under a $2000 budget. We’ll see how that goes as well.

With that said, here’s what I’ve got going. My Van. 93 MV Weekender. Manual transmission. A little shabby when you look a bit closer, but not too bad. Out of a wild hair and inexperience, I ended up having a rebuilt Transmission put into the van. It’s a CPW. A little better final drive than the standard CHP. I also installed a .71 5th gear set. So having the van as manual already and my slight overdrive gear in, I thought this may be a little more manageable to complete the TDI swap.



I originally assumed I would amass my parts over a few years’ time. As timing would have it, an AHU engine popped onto the Craigslist, but not too far over the border in Langley, BC, Canada. It had already been pulled from an early 99 Jetta and included most of all that I needed from the donor car. $1500 Canadian, with amounted to about $1250 American.
Engine with all the normal built on accessories. (183K kms) 113K miles.
Wiring harness
Fuse panel
Downpipe
Potentiometer
Gas pedal
Air box
Intercooler
ECU
Intercooler piping and fuel lines

Promptly drove up and picked up my motor. Nice fellow who skillfully forklifted the engine into my van.

https://flic.kr/p/Vk5aDN

Just the day before I picked up the engine, I had secured an engine stand. With some backyard leveraging I managed to get engine onto the mount an into my work space, which sadly is my carport shed. It will do though. I stripped of the accessories and mounts. I cleaned the engine a good deal. I don’t have pictures, but the intake was caked with carbon and spent a good week or so cleaning that out. Same for the intake manifold. It was worse. I think I have it fairly well cleaned out though.

https://flic.kr/p/WxJiDb

So while I’ve been cleaning the engine up, I was collecting up some replacement pieces. ($400 spent so far)
Timing belt, idler, tensioner.
Serpentine belt, idler, water pump
Oil pan and valve cover gasket
New right, left and rear rubber engine/transmission mounts
New flywheel bolts
Diesel Fuel filter (wasn’t sure if I needed it, but have it now.)
Coolant

And acquiring the Euro parts ($500 spent) courtesy of FRANS with Dutch auto parts
4cyl transmission carrier 02B409905K
lower timming belt cover 028109127H
Oil dip Stick/housing 028115629E, N90461401, 044115611F, N 028 224 01
Oil filler neck and cap 044115308A/070115319
Sump (oil pan) 044103601D
Transmission upper cover plate 044103647B
right-side engine mount 028199207E.

to include these ABL parts I thought would be convenient
lift pump (fuel tank pump) 701919813B
Oil cooler bracket 028115417G (more clearance for drivetrain pan?)

I'm presently a little over budge at $2100 with problably some expenses to come. I'm hoping it all drops down below the 2k mark when I sell off my gas engine and accessories.

As of now, I’ve completed boring the new dipstick hole and have bore/tapped the right side mount holes. Also tapped the old dipstick hole to M12 with 1.75 pitch. Cut the end of an M12 bolt and slotted it. I will be red locktiting it. With the metal shavings mess out of the way, I’ve put on my ABL oil pan and gasket and installed my ABL oil pickup. Modified the windage flap to fit the oil pan as well. I shouldn’t have to flip the engine over any more.
[FONT=&quot]Next step is to install the new timing belt. Will give the engine another good wipe down, and then pull the belt and accessories. I’ve managed to construct 2 of the 3 tools I think I need. Grinded down a flat bar a little to hold the valves in place and made a tensioner tool. My tensioner tool still needs a couple hardened bolts though. I ended up ordering the fuel pump locking pin. That’s coming in the mail.

[/FONT] https://flic.kr/p/Vk58u7

 

[njt1rider]

SO awesome. You are going to love your new van when finished! Keep up the good work.

 

[Josh_WA]

Hey thanks njt1rider. I've read your thread I don't know how many times. It really is a good reference on converting a van in North America.

 

[twentyeight]

Hey, this looks awesome! I'm working on gathering parts for the same build.

I'm curious about your parts list— I don't see the L-shaped right-side engine mount 028199207E.

I also see you have a transmission bracket listed, but I don't understand how that changes if your transporter already has a manual transmission.
Edit- I think this is the carrier for mounting the axle extension to the 4-cyl TDI block (number 11)

(BTW, for posterity, a 7/16" quarter-inch-drive Crafstman socket is a perfect fit for an AHU/1Z injection pump locking pin in a pinch. I finally found a use for my imperial sockets!)

 

[Josh_WA]

Thanks, I've edited my original post.

I ended up just buying a locking pin, but that is good info for others. I've actually just put on the new timing belt, idler and tensioner. Started to put on the accessory brackets. I'm going with the ABL oil cooler mount, so I'll follow up later it allows for a full size filter. With the bottom engine cover on. This will be at the expense of longer coolant lines and I'll need to extend the oil line somehow. Or just buy a braided oil line of the right length.

By the way, the L shaped right side engine mount comes in a non L shaped version as well. I had one of each for a short time. I'll post some pictures later today.

 

[Josh_WA]

4cyl transmission carrier being #11. I haven't pulled my engine. I'll have an extra if the exact thing is in there. I seem to be doubling on a few parts in error.

My progress pics though. Got the timing belt on after getting my injection pump pin.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5axA][/URL]

Then got the new water pump on, some of the accessory pulleys and brackets. The alternator that came with the engine is a little noisy. still got to check to see if its actually working. Will otherwise use my current alternator from the Weekender.


Here's the pic of the two different right side engine mount.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5aBy][/URL]

 

[jimbote]

nice project.... i have a 99 full camper in the works for a tdi swap ... not sure if you've already tightened the t belt tensioner or it's just hanging loose for assembly purposes ... if it is tight it's tightened backward ... if so you should remove it and inspect the stop tab for bending and/or cracking... it'd be ashame to do all that hard work converting and then the tensioner fail on ya .... good luck !

 

[twentyeight]

What's the part number on the angular engine bracket? I'm having a hard time finding a reference to it.

Are the end dimensions the same?

 

[Josh_WA]

nice project.... i have a 99 full camper in the works for a tdi swap ... not sure if you've already tightened the t belt tensioner or it's just hanging loose for assembly purposes ... if it is tight it's tightened backward ... if so you should remove it and inspect the stop tab for bending and/or cracking... it'd be ashame to do all that hard work converting and then the tensioner fail on ya .... good luck !

Good save. I did have it turned the wrong way. I pulled it off and it wasn't bent out of shape luckily. I don't remember forcing it though. Looks more correct now.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk585j][/URL]

 

[Josh_WA]

What's the part number on the angular engine bracket? I'm having a hard time finding a reference to it.

Are the end dimensions the same?

The part number on the angular bracket was 044199207G. It does have the same dimensions as far as where the rubber mount are as well as the attachment points to the engine. There are different size bolt lengths that will be needed though. Still 10mm though. There isn't a picture that I've found of the part but the part # is listed with the L mount # as a version of the part.

 

[twentyeight]

Any update on this?

 

[Josh_WA]

Not at the moment. I'm waiting til September to do the swap. The engine is ready to go in though. Just have one more trip that I need a known good running van for this month.

 

[Josh_WA]

Path of no return

Summer trips are over and now its down the path of no return. Just a couple pictures of the the progress. Don't expect this to be a quick turn around. I tend to not get much time to work on projects in successive days or hours. At any rate, I've started. Just got the van set up on some ramps for more access.

Just the plastic bumper off. Had only one bolt loosely holding it on.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5awd][/URL]

Front end off. A lot less pieces than I thought. Was easiest for me to remove the healights and the covers under them first, followed by the radiator and condenser(slightly heavy). My A/C has been depleted of cold for a long long time. I released the lowside on the evaporator(?) and it hissed just momentarily. The radiator hoses were easy enough to get off, but the power steering hoses created a little mess for me to sop up with the front of my pants. Last the steel bumper(heavy). not really many bolts holding this on. 12 I think and easy to get to. It's just loosing to the wires and hoses out from all the securing clips. Otherwise, it came away easy. Front end is now clear.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk583q][/URL]

Next will be pulling the wires back across towards the battery side. Not too scary deep yet.

 

[oilhammer]

What transmission are you using?

 

[Josh_WA]

What transmission are you using?

I'm sticking with my CPW.

 

[oilhammer]

So the manual for the tilted forward 5 cyl has a dual bolt pattern for the 15 degree backwards 4 cyl? Or does the 4 cyl get tilted forward as well? And then would you need a T4 specific oil pan and pump pickup? I'd like to see some pics of the gearbox bolted up to the TDI engine.

 

[Josh_WA]

The 4 cyl gets tilted forward as well, and needs a t4 specific oil pan and pickup from a European ABL 4 cyl diesel engine. I will likely post some down the road, but in the meantime you can check out all the conversion threads. Here's one that I've read through a bit before heading down the road of the conversion.

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=15258&page=6
post #55 has some pictures of the TDI and transmission bolted together.

 

[oilhammer]

Cool, thanks for the info. My T4 is a slushbox, and I am pretty certain it would not bolt up to a 4 cylinder engine.

 

[Josh_WA]

Gas tank

A little side progress.

I managed to not have a 10mm triple square bit to remove the axles from the transmission. So I've been waiting for that arrive. It arrived yesterday, so I'll be getting to that soon and finally pulling the 2.5 gas out of there. I think I've done everything that I can to clear the way for the engine to come out. Everything has been disconnected and pulled out of the way, that I can tell. just the motor/transmission mounts and the axles left.

So in the mean time, I've been working on the gas tank and pulling the dash apart to settle the potentiometer.

Wasn't too bad pulling down. disconnect the fuel gauge plug and the in/out gas lines from above. Then remove the gas tank straps and lower it down. Disconnect the breather lines. Luckily I had only about 2 gallons or less in the tank. Getting the last of the gas out of the tank.
https://flic.kr/p/Vk5aiY

I pulled of the funnel on the neck to open up the nozzle hole to accept a diesel nozzle at the pump.
https://flic.kr/p/W22bS1

You need to pry up the tabs to the side of cap. There are 3.
https://flic.kr/p/W22avJ

The splash back flap on the funnel is a little hard to remove but it will come out. Hopefully, it won't come back off after the reinstall. I just used my dremel and worked the hole larger with a metal grinding bit. Should be 1" diameter.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/W22bPL][/URL]

I don't have a picture, but in my first picture with the gas tank, there is a box behind with both the diesel and gas, tank inserts. The gas sender latches down into the tank via metal ring melted/molded into the bottom of the tank. When I place my diesel sender in there, the ring bridges it up about a 1/4 inch or so off the floor of the tank. It will work as is, but i'll need to be leary of running the tank very low. Has anyone had any success in removing this or cutting part of the ring away?

 

[Josh_WA]

Other partial work

Pulled the dash apart. This was about the only thing I was comfortable doing and got apart fairly quickly. I've had to pull it apart of few times working on the blower fan and the center switches/levers. Definitely easier to get at the back and around the fuse block.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk581w][/URL]

I managed to get the actual bracket that the potentiometer mounts to, so it fits right into place as it should. It was raw steel when I received it, so I made sure to prime then painted it with whatever was handy on the shelf. So it's red for no particular reason. I got it from Noiseybugger on the T4 forum. He fabricates them and they are very solid and mount as stock . He seemed to have quite a few. Now just to get the pedal resolved. I'm told the lower part of the existing pedal welded to the top part of the donor pedal. Might be one of the later things I get done. I will also be using a a better bolt/net combo for the bracket as well.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5afb][/URL]

A question on the plunger/vacuum tube that was previously attached to the gas pedal. Is that still needed in some way. I could probably find a place for it, but right now its just dangling. You can see it hanging in the first picture.

 

[njt1rider]

The vacuum line is for the vacuum operated cruise control for the gasser. You will now have electronic cruise control

 

[BCL]

Hey JoshW,
I'm curious, is your diesel you're installing in the euro a 1.6 tdi? If so, does it bolt in with the same mounts as the 2.5L? And, with as heavy as these vans are, are you concerned about enough power from the 1.6?

 

[Josh_WA]

1.9 AHU. It's been done many times by others and the power has been better than the 2.5 with better fuel mileage.

 

[BCL]

tdi conversion

Ah, good to know. I'm going with the 2.5L. lol.

 

[Josh_WA]

2.5 out

The massive heap is out. So much fiddling to get that thing out.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk57VG][/URL]

I've pulled the transmission from the engine already and pulled the clutch/flywheel off as well. The van is torn down as far as it needs to go thankfully. Reassembly time after I get a new clutch purchased and installed.

I've got a leak between the transmission extension arm and the main transmission housing. I've removed the 4 bolts and speedo sensor, but it really doesn't want to budge and don't want to force it until I know there isn't something I'm missing to remove it. Is there something in the main housing that is holding it in as well?

 

[ninedee_golf_tdi]

http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=294262&highlight=trumpet+removal

 

[Josh_WA]

Some progress. After pulling the engine and seeing that I somehow missed that the 2.5 gasser flywheel doesn't work on the AHU, I went ahead and purchased it along with a few other things I needed.

Yesterday these came in. Reconditioned factory AHU flywheel, flywheel bolts, Sachs clutch, and the rear oil seal.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/W22bLQ][/URL]

I had brought the engine down from the engine stand last weekend with a hoist, but now had to get it back on the hoist to pull the pan back down to get the rear oil seal on. done.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5abJ][/URL]

Then the ABL tin, then flywheel. That was a tough 1/4 turn on the flywheel bolts after the 44ft/lbs torque.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk57SL][/URL]

Then clutch and flex plate.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk5a2L][/URL]

I've replaced the throwout bearing in the transmission as well. I did end up getting the trumpet off with just a rubber mallet to the part that support bolts on to. Theres an oring in there that seals it up. My next to just get transmission mated to the engine, then put it in place, in the front of the van.

 

[Josh_WA]

More mechanical progress.

Mated the transmission to the engine. Pretty straight forward i think. Still need to make up a lower cover for the open part of transmission.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59VJ][/URL]

Made sure the timing is good now that I've got the flywheel mark to check against. I had originally set it by TDC of piston #1. The timing was out a little from the flywheel mark. This time I also loosened the cam bolt to get that sprocket set correctly as well.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59U1][/URL]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/WpDQJa][/URL]

I left the van on its wheels doing this work, but you get very very little wiggle room between the axles and the transmission. Pretty much had to inch it in. But the engine went in. The lift and chains are shown there, but the engine is now attached by the motor and transmission mounts. I had enough for the day after getting that in place.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk57MW][/URL]

Next task is to get the coolant hoses connected up. I also still haven't mounted the alternator or the AC pump. My van's alternator had a fixed wheel whereas the alternator that came with the AHU has a clutched wheel. Is the clutched wheel better. My vans alternator is newer. I could probably just swap the wheels, but I need to buy the tool.

 

[twentyeight]

The clutched pulley is better. There is an issue with the crank timing gear walking that are exacerbated by alternator over-run, but I think they were more prevalent with AAZ cranks that were not keyed the same. Even still, cheap insurance.

Where'd you get the Flennor timing belt? I hate being super anal about parts sources (I'm even running Prothe injection pump hard lines on one car) but the timing belt is not an area where I'd risk anything that doesn't already have a good track record. This thread may or may not be just hear-say, but it'd be enough to make me nervous.

My T4 won't fit in my garage—I was planning on getting a set of ramps from seeing it in your pictures. Did that work out ok? Should I think about setting the ramps on some 2x6's?

 

[Josh_WA]

I got my belts and rollers from Blauparts. I checked that thread and my belt didn't have an issue with teeth alignment. Thanks for the warning though. I'll at least keep my eye on it and see if it shows to be wearing faster than normal after a few thousand miles. I've got tons of room to get to that side of the engine in the van, so if i did have to change it out, it should be a small job.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Vk59Cj][/URL]

The ramps are working just fine for me. Lots of room really. I was easily able to pull down the gas tank as well and get it out the side of the van. A couple of issues I've run into is that there is very little wiggle room after you disconnect the axles from the transmission. The transmission/engine can be gotten in and out as I've done, but you have to work it very slowly and constantly checking the contact between the axles and transmission. The bottom of the wheels are at most 12 inches from the ground. Also, I changed out an Oring on the transmission extension. This involves removing it from the main transmission housing. When I got it back together I didn't think about the previous orientation of transmission hubs to each other. Now that i've got the engine in, i'm able to bolt up one axle, but the other is out of alignment. Before I want to bring the van back off the ramps, I'll need to jack up the side that is not connected to rotate the wheel to align the axle. The van is already up pretty high though. I'll work that out later. Shouldn't be a problem if you are using your same transmission and you don't pull of the extension. If you are using another transmission, you just have to expect to do the same.

Oh and unfortunately for me, my carport partially floods in a heavy rain, which we got this weekend. So that is what all the wetness is underneath. Something to consider too if you can.