jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- TDI
- More than I need, less than I want
Vane levers wear into the ring. If there’s significant play at that point you most likely will never get it to act correctly.
Thete are some turbos that use shorter actuators at the threads and even some with a shorter adjuster heim. Maybe you ended up with one of those?As I was adjusting it this time I was reminded that the rod isn't long enough. Even when the adjuster is just off the threads of the rod there is still a little bit of play in the vane lever. I'm sure I bought some random diaphragm for the lowest price and it just doesn't fit well.
I've had the rod and lever apart a few times and it always feels like the lever moves freely. I think I need to actually set set the down position via vacuum. This time I didn't, but last time I did. I'll do that this week and report back. When I first got everything back together after the IP, injectors, and head refresh with the tune it didn't seem like it was going into limp mode. Then it did once, and then all of the time. Now, post "adjustment" it only does it on the highway.But without seeing what you’re dealing with it’s just a guessing game.
Have you disconnected the rod from the vane actuating lever? The lever should cycle with zero resistance. Somehow the vanes are partially closed if you’re getting boost when the ecu isn’t calling for any, such as when in limp mode
Could be. I didn't know there were long/short combos. It would make sense that this engine would be the oddball, since it's from an early 99 mk4.Thete are some turbos that use shorter actuators at the threads and even some with a shorter adjuster heim. Maybe you ended up with one of those?
I can't get the rod end off of the actuator arm with the diaphragm installed. When I "fixed" it this last time I just went by memory of where it was installed. I need to verify that the actuator is hitting the stop at 18"Hg. I doubt it, honestly.If the rod is set to max length and you’re still getting boost try this. Pull the vacuum line so the diaphragm is at rest. Remove the snap ring to see if the vanes are fully open and the diaphragm is not restricting movement. This I’m asking assuming that with vacuum applied the lever hits the stop screw.
Has the cartridge ever been removed? It seems to me I had installed a vane ring flipped on the wrong side once and it limited range.
Can you measure the extended threaded rod (no vacuum) and the heim adjuster? I'll compare to what i have here.Checked the rod adjustment with MityVac and gauge today. The rod is 100% too short. I checked that the vane actuator arm moves 100% freely from hard stop to hard stop.
When I apply 18 inHg to the diaphragm the threaded rod doesn't reach the adjuster portion even when the lever arm is on the stop.
I think what I did last time was just put minimal threads into the adjuster to get it as close as I could. Now I obviously need to do something about it, since it's causing issues.
I finally got out there to take a look at this. With the vacuum actuator off, from the bracket to the tip of the threads is 1-7/8".Can you measure the extended threaded rod (no vacuum) and the heim adjuster? I'll compare to what i have here.
Is it still loud-ish? I suppose I could just start with running it all the out from under truck to see.I ran my exhaust like yours for the first few months. It was droney, but when i exited out the bed side it got much better. No muffler either.
Not loud enough to be annoying, but I've had over 14 years to get used to itIs it still loud-ish? I suppose I could just start with running it all the out from under truck to see.
Ha! I had that on my old mk4 tdi. Too loud for my old ears these days.Another vote for 2.5 inch back exhaust with no cat/resonator/muffler. A turbo is a muffler!
LOL, probably why I think my exhaust is mellow.I hear the drone of my mud terrains over that of the exhaust unless I'm romping on it, even with the top off. Not they the KTT soft top really does anything for sound dampening.
I can't imagine my life without v band clamps. Having the exhaust and/or down pipe removable in second is what all OEM car manufacturers should go to.
Keep in mind it's not only a truck, it's also got really long gearing, it's lifted, and it's on 33" tires.those are some crazy high EGTs for just cruising!! o.0 granted for a truck but still... thats way too much
Do you have a smaller set of tires you can try?
When I'm at 70-75 I'm between 2800 and 3000 rpms. EGT will climb to maybe 1000-1100 going up hills maintaining those speeds.
It's usually closer to 800 on flat ground.
It will rise a little higher doing those same roads at 60 which is about 2300 rpms.
I think I've mentioned this before but on my 285/70/17 tires running 4.10 gears the performance on back roads at 40-45 mph was dreadful as I was at about 2000 rpms and constantly had to either lug the motor or downshift up hills or dealing with Sunday driver types
In city daily commuting the traffic light to traffic light acceleration suckes.
Going to 4.30 gears made it peppy and much more fun at all speeds. I'm not taking a lifted 1st Gen 4 runner to 80-90 mph, it's a death wish. 70-75 is my personal max.
Yeah, I think this all makes sense. I'm on 33in tires, with 3.56 gears, and 0.81 final drive. At 70mph in 5th I'm basically sitting at 2000 rpm. If I drop down into 4th the temps drop too. Maybe loading up the engine that much at 2000rpm is just rocketing the EGT up.That does seem pretty hot. I’m running 31.5” tires, 4.88 diffs, and a 0.69:1 5th gear which puts me at around 2500 rpm @ 70 mph. My vehicle weighs 4700-5000lbs under normal conditions, has the aerodynamics of a brick and usually has an RTT on top.
Engine modifications are 0.216 injectors, a BHW turbo, and until this spring a Malone stage 4, now running a Burpod tune. EGT at 70 on flat ground was always 1000-1100°F with the Malone tune, now it is 900-1000°F. Pulling hills or accelerating would put it in the 1300°F+ pretty quickly, I once saw 1650°F on a full throttle 3rd gear pull. With the Burpod tune it can still get over 1300, but takes a lot longer to get there.
Yeah, 2000@70 is probably too high of gearing. My 5th ratio seems a little bit tall for my setup, but it does ok. I usually have to downshift to 4th and run at 55 when pulling large grades. That said, cruising speed on flat ground is usually 77mph, I don’t like going much faster than that. Once hit 84, seemed really fast for the chassis and suspension.Yeah, I think this all makes sense. I'm on 33in tires, with 3.56 gears, and 0.81 final drive. At 70mph in 5th I'm basically sitting at 2000 rpm. If I drop down into 4th the temps drop too. Maybe loading up the engine that much at 2000rpm is just rocketing the EGT up.
I have 2 sets of 31in tires, but they are 15s and I can only run 16s with the Tundra brakes. TLR, no.
I don't typically do much more than 70-75mph. I was hoping to be able to chug along the interstate at 80 through the plains and parts of the West, but if that's just not in the cards for the truck/engine combo, I don't really have a problem with gearing to only do 70mph.
4th @70mph is roughly in the 2600rpm realm. I'll have to verify that again.Yeah, 2000@70 is probably too high of gearing. My 5th ratio seems a little bit tall for my setup, but it does ok. I usually have to downshift to 4th and run at 55 when pulling large grades. That said, cruising speed on flat ground is usually 77mph, I don’t like going much faster than that. Once hit 84, seemed really fast for the chassis and suspension.
A stock Jetta runs nearly 3k rpm at 80 and is happy to do that all day, it doesn’t seem to have an adverse effect on fuel economy. I don’t see much difference in fuel economy between 70 and 77 mph.
I have to agree with Burpod. My setup is similar. 265 70 17. Lifted, 4.10s. Cruises highway speed around 8-850. Rarely hits 1100-1200, and thats under sustained full chooch. Stewart Warner gauge with probe mounted in the BHW egt port. Truck is not slow, does not struggle on hills. 31-33 mpg.Keep in mind it's not only a truck, it's also got really long gearing, it's lifted, and it's on 33" tires.
The IQ was set to max, which yielded about 6.0-ish mg/str. I put the adjustment value back to 32768, which brought the IQ to about 3.8-ish. EGTs seem to be about the same, maybe a little higher if I push it hard.
I would gladly do some logs to get your thoughts on the setup. The ECU is socketed now, so if there is anything tune-wise that would be better, I'm open to that as well.
When I was talking with Kerma about the original tune, I told them I wanted low smoke and low EGTs. I'm not looking for max power by any means.