Swirl flap delete opinions.

GTOguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2013
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
'13 Beetle TDI 6spd, Rawtek/Malone 2.0 Eco
I have recently picked up a '12 Golf and will be deleting and tuning it just like my '13 Beetle I have. What is the consensus on deleting the swirl flaps while I am at it? Experiences.
 

dlhovland

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Location
Yakima
TDI
2015 golf Tdi manual transmission. Wife's car a 2014 toured v6 Tdi
I have wondered the same thing
 

MikeH31324

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Location
SE Georgia USA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI 2 door 6MT
Same here, wondering about the effects of deleting the swirl flaps as well as the effect of getting rid of the exhaust manifold heat shroud intake air warmer thingy.
 

GTOguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2013
Location
Oklahoma
TDI
'13 Beetle TDI 6spd, Rawtek/Malone 2.0 Eco
I didn't do it on my beetle and really didn't know it was a thing back then. Malone now offers in on there website which they didn't back then. Maybe I need to e-mail Malone and see if they have time to offer a educated opinion.
 

Justdrive

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2015
Location
Raleigh NC
TDI
2015 TDi SE
Hey All,

I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.

Best things to do in this order:

EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==

Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.

Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.

The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.

When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect

You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.
 

97B4TDi

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
1997 B4 Passat, 2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI
Does disconnecting the IFV throw any codes/dash lights? Are they able to be cleared?

Once disconnected is it full open all the time?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis (where it's safe)
TDI
There are just too many to list....
It is truly amazing how fuel efficient a diesel engine can be when it is allowed to do what a diesel engine does best and run super lean. You can also extend your oil change intervals as the oil no longer gets full of soot so quickly.

Same car, same engine, same oil, same oil filter, same driver, same interval.. left is with everything intact and a 43mpg average, right is with a mild tune and delete and a 52mpg average:

 

Hayze

Well-known member
Joined
May 30, 2020
Location
Oklahoma City
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI 2.0L
Same here, wondering about the effects of deleting the swirl flaps as well as the effect of getting rid of the exhaust manifold heat shroud intake air warmer thingy.
Deleted my exhaust warmer and stock air intake box. Have no problems with it. If you live in a cold environment keep in mind that warming up the car will take longer than usual. But can still pick up temp pretty quick when you start driving.
 

Taben

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2020
Location
Fort Worth Texas
TDI
2012 TDi premium
Hey All,

I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.

Best things to do in this order:

EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==

Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.

Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.

The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.

When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect

You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.
I have a 12 Jetta tdi and I’ve done the buzzken downpipe, EGR delete hi and low, race pipe but left the flutter valve in line, banks 3 in exhaust, dsg tune, Malone stage 2 tune. I just finished installing the cr170 today and completely removed the EGR cooler since I was swapping turbos. I have a Malone stage 3 tune waiting to install( I need to find a regular pc to update my flashzilla). I’m now getting a temp fault on the dash. Do you know if the stage 3 removes thy fault or was the sensor from the EGR cooler supposed to be rerouted somewhere? Thanks Terry
 

Canary5.0

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Location
Missouri
TDI
2012 Golf DSG w/ Tech Pkg. Malone Stage II
What is the IFV’s function really is it can be disconnected when tuned? Is it modulating when it is plugged in after a tune?
 

calimustang

Veteran Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Location
Central FL
TDI
2011 JSW DSG (buyback, RIP), 2014 JSW TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2013 Jetta TDI.
Hey All,

I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.

Best things to do in this order:

EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==

Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.

Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.

The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.

When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect

You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.
Interesting, I tried to run Rotella and my CJAA hated it with passion. ran so slow like if she was towing an anchor and sounded awful and whole car vibrated from it. poor MPG's like 35-38. (yes she is deleted) went back to LM 4200 within 500 miles and she is happy and averaging 47-52 mpg and scoots!
 

tjg

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2019
Location
Ft. Hood, TX
TDI
'13 TDI A3, '14 TDI Sportwagen
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
are you referring to replacing that grub screw that comes with the darkside kit?
 
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