Deleted my exhaust warmer and stock air intake box. Have no problems with it. If you live in a cold environment keep in mind that warming up the car will take longer than usual. But can still pick up temp pretty quick when you start driving.Same here, wondering about the effects of deleting the swirl flaps as well as the effect of getting rid of the exhaust manifold heat shroud intake air warmer thingy.
I have a 12 Jetta tdi and I’ve done the buzzken downpipe, EGR delete hi and low, race pipe but left the flutter valve in line, banks 3 in exhaust, dsg tune, Malone stage 2 tune. I just finished installing the cr170 today and completely removed the EGR cooler since I was swapping turbos. I have a Malone stage 3 tune waiting to install( I need to find a regular pc to update my flashzilla). I’m now getting a temp fault on the dash. Do you know if the stage 3 removes thy fault or was the sensor from the EGR cooler supposed to be rerouted somewhere? Thanks TerryHey All,
I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.
Best things to do in this order:
EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==
Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.
Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.
The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.
When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect
You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.
Interesting, I tried to run Rotella and my CJAA hated it with passion. ran so slow like if she was towing an anchor and sounded awful and whole car vibrated from it. poor MPG's like 35-38. (yes she is deleted) went back to LM 4200 within 500 miles and she is happy and averaging 47-52 mpg and scoots!Hey All,
I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.
Best things to do in this order:
EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==
Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.
Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.
The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.
When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect
You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.
are you referring to replacing that grub screw that comes with the darkside kit?Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
enough for providing this information, I knew there was a secret combo that I needed to use.Hey All,
I'm in central NC. 2013 CJAA CR170 setup with aluminum IC, Darkside pipework and EGR race pipe.
Best things to do in this order:
EGR and cooler delete = no more carbon buildup
Buzzken 2.5" downpipe /w used ebay GTI muffler. Downpipe bigger is not better, its what you use most of the time..velocity.
Stage 2-3 Tune /w dynamic idle
Once EGR is deleted, the EGR cooler can be removed. Best time to do this is during the CR170 swap. I figured bigger turbo, but not too big is less heat.
ASV (shaking when shutting down) retained
Darkside EGR race pipe & S3 Intercooler and pipework removes the boost leaks. The pipework is a nightmare to install, your basically disassembling the front clip. Add copper washers and a hex bolt to the boost tap on the race pipe. It will leak until you put 2 crush washers.
Neuspeed turbo resonator delete (aluminum vs plastic oem)
== This on a smoke free tune yeilds me ~44mpg ==
Disconnect the IFV (Intake Flap Valve Motor); This removes ALL smoke on tip in throttle
Idle will stink very slightly when IFV is bypassed but almost completely disappears when car is warmed up.
== Instant boost from 44 to 54mpg, yes US!!! ==
Next step will be to remove the actual IFV bodies and plug it with a kit on ebay. At this point it will be a piece of cake because nothing is in the way of the intake manifold. With the additional CFM in the intake manifold you can skip the cams.
Believe it or not this is on a DSG car with 113k getting 54mpg consistently with 42psi in the tires.
The other thing I did was the dogbone mount but the car sounds like its falling apart in reverse.
When it's all done you'll have a total of 3 vacuum lines:
- From the vacuum pump is the tee, large line to brake booster.
- Vac Pump from check valve to N75
- N75 vent to airbox
- N75 to turbo actuator
- Remove the vacuum canister on the airbox and reconnect
You can also now run Rotella T6 5W-40 at 24$ a pop since the DPF is gone.