Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

[VelvetFoot]

Well, now the alarm goes off when I try to arm it with the door open. Great. Stupid door switch!!

 

[Mark of Diesel]

Sorry to hear about another door lock/latch mechanism going bad. Sounds like the alarm isn't seeing the door is open. Have you looked into the threads on the solder connection fix both here and over at the Vortex? By all rights, with the number of lock/latch mechanisim failures I've personally seen and heard of from these and other forums, VW should do a recall but I won't hold my breath waiting for that!

Good luck VF!

 

[VelvetFoot]

I've done that fix to the Jetta we used to have. I just don't want to mess with it. I got the door light to work anyway. It's not that bad, really/ hopefully I won't set the alarm off too much!

 

[VelvetFoot]

Well, when I spray contact cleaner in there the door light goes on for a while only. Then it seems to go out when it dries up! Also the alarm is still armable with the door open so I agree that it doesn't know that it's open. I'll probably open it tomorrow AM.

Edit: Bought the switch ($3.00) and the lock ($140!). Hopefully I'll be getting a refund on the lock.

 

[2001tdinewbe]

great info. Looks like a tinker project fo rthe W/E

 

[VelvetFoot]

Yeah. I got some extra door clips 'just in case'!

 

[bowlerman]

so mad ididnt see this before, i just paid 117 for the whole lock assembly from impex for this to get my lights to work. damn

 

[VelvetFoot]

I wound up using the lock from the dealer. I thought I fixed the original by resoldering a loose solder joint but that didn't do the trick. I think there was another loose connection, but I didn't have time to mess around anymore: the switch mentioned above didn't look like it could be made to work on my 2000 NB, and Mrs. VelvetFoot was getting annoyed about hanging around for most of the day.

The lock works great now.

I used a cable wrap to secure the lock instead of a rivet or bolt and nut because the bracket was cracked and the rivet hole on the bracket was chewed. It seems to work well so far.

 

[reiddo1]

I used the Radio Shack switch PN 275-016A and clipped off the metal contact shoe; with some trial and error for correct placement of the switch relative to the latch and some JB weld to secure the switch in place, my lock mechanism works now as good as new.

 

[VTjoe]

Not adding a lot here but I think it's worth a bump. The switch that broke looks really flimsy and I am not at all surprised that it is a reliability problem. Used the fix suggested in this thread this weekend. The switch was just they one they regularly stock at Radio Shack. The mounting point I was able to get using small bolts was near the edge and a little questionable, if it gives out on me I may have to try the JB Weld.

Best of all, my Alientech controller does roll-ups again!

 

[bowlerman]

wish i had known this. i didnt have time and bought the whole module 117 f'ing dollars but it works now. now the question is, is how long?

 

[bjmarler]

-bump-

I think I'm starting to have this same problem on my 2004 Jetta.

Anyone know if this is something covered under warranty? Im at 37,000 miles.

 

[moartea]

I went to the Radio Shack site and all I could find was this: #275-016
Is this the same switch? Will it work?
The links is http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049718
My problem is a little different than yours, my passenger door's light stays on all the time, and when I unlock the doors using the key from the passenger's side, all doors are unlocked. But when I lock it, only the passenger's door is locked, the others stay open. You think my problem is this switch?

Thanks

 

[Jarhead96]

Thats the same switch that I found! My local Radio Shack said that it wasnt available anymore except online. They also said it is now #275-0016. Hope this is the right one!!!

 

[Doug Huffman]

Re 'kicking'; we called it mechanical hysteresis and could specify it in technical instructions. Sometimes there is no better solution.

 

[Jarhead96]

I found a switch at my local Electronics store that looks to be the same as the RadioShack switch.

Cherry Products E63-50H

It was a little more expensive than the RadioShack costing $7.85.

Hope this works !!

 

[Fortuna Wolf]

Just a bump for this thread. I noticed today that my passenger side door wasn't activating the lights. I sprayed brake cleaner (I couldn't find my electrical parts cleaner) into the door latch and manually manipulated it for several minutes. I was rewarded with a flashing red light in the door, and after a bit more work the light was on solid. Fixed for less than $1!
If the switch ever breaks I'll know how to fix it too.

 

[oj1111]

i apparently fell victim to my gimpy door lock last week. since my lock only works about half the time (via the remote anyway) i have made a habit of locking it with the key. however, i must have forgotten to do that becuase some scum bag got in my car and stole my ashtray full of change. i wouldnt have minded so much if they had just taken my change, but to take the damn ashtray also? bastards! savages in this town! i guess i should just be thankful they didnt notice my checkbook hanging out of the passenger side visor.

 

[meganuke]

Anyone know if these faulty switches exist in the rear doors of a 2003 Passat?

 

[BOCTOK]

An even cheaper fix. I was getting ready to replace the one on my Passat's driver's door, when I notice the tabs in the body of the switch. There are four, two on each side. Pry them up gently and you can pop the switch open. (BTW, the side with the button is the top, so you don't lose the stuff inside.)

Once you have it open, you'll probably see a small spring, a wish-bone shaped piece of copper metal, and possibly the small black pin that is the source of all the woes.

What I did to fix it:

I found a safe place for the spring and wishbone.

I took a small drill bit (I used one for wood that has the tiny, sharp starter point) and drilled a small hole in the small rectangular plastic piece that is on the opposite side from the metal contacts.

I took some needle-nose pliers and bent one of the ends of the spring so that it would hook into the new hole.

This is the tricky part - I then hooked the other end of the spring into the hole in the center of the wishbone and grabbed the other end of the spring with the needle-nose pliers. If you tilt the lower switch housing so that the metal contacts are on the downward side, you can dangle the wishbone into place. (The single prong of the wishbone goes between the other contacts and the two-pronged side fits into place against the center metal pieces. You will understand when you see it. The center metal pieces have a bend in them where the wishbone pivots.) then gently pull the spring and hook it into the hole that you drilled in the plastic part on the opposite end from the metal contacts.

After you have it in place, you can test it by pushing down on the body of the spring. This causes the wishbone to pivot and make contact.

You'll see in the inside of the top of the switch (with the button), that there is a saddle looking piece of plastic. This pushes down on the body of the spring.

After it's all in place, just snap the housing back together and pop the switch back into place in the latch mechanism.

I wanted to take pictures, but the parts are so small that you couldn't see any detail. Instead, I drew some diagrams. I'm not an artist or draftsman, so don't expect a lot. I think they are clear enough to give you the idea.

You can see the diagram at: http://www.boctok.net/index.php?name=coppermine&file=displayimage&pid=22

Click on the picture for a larger view.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I have my drivers door all tore apart. I am trying to fix my door switch. The one that tells you if the door is open or not and turns on the interior lights and the door light on the door. I have determined that the little switch that does this is bad since it fell apart when I removed the lock assembly! Does any one know where I can get a replacement switch from? I hate to replace the whole assembly when just the little switch is bad. I figure Cherry electric must make a switch like this one. Someone must have found the part number/vendor for this little switch. It will be a piece of cake to fix just this switch.

Ok, we can fix this door switch for $3 USD! You need to go to Radio Shack and purchase Part number #275-016A. This is a Submini Lever Switch. It has NO and NC contacts. Now here is what you need to do.
1) Tear the door down to the door lock assembly. This is detailed in the Bentley.
2) Remove the door lock assembly from the door carrier assembly you just removed. You will need to drill out a rivit to do this as detailed in Bentley.
3) Once you have the door lock assembly out, you will see the switch in question. It is the one that has a red and blue wire going to it. Mine was ruined as outlined above.
4) You will need a dremel tool to slot out the holes that hold the switch in place to the new switch fits in.
4) Observe the posistion and how the old switch works.Then remove the old switch. It is held in place by two plastic plugs that are melted to hold the switch. Pry it out with a small flat bladed screwdriver and clip the wires at the switch. Then slot out the holes for the new switch with your dremel. You will be able to see what you need to slot by comparing the two switches.
5) Take the new switch and remove the lever by slowly twisting it out with a pliers. You don't need it, just the main body of the switch.
6) You will need two tiny screws and nuts, which I had laying around, otherwise you can get them at the hardware store. Attatch the new switch and solder the red and blur wires to the switch. One to the Common and one to the NO (normally open). Plug the electrical plug back in and test the operation of the switch.
7) Button it all back up and rejoice in the money you saved!

I also lubed the new switch with electrical grease and hopefully it will last for awhile. Now that it is all modified, I can slug a new one in if it fails again in the future. (hopefully I wont have to!)

I know these instructions are very basic, but if you have the ability to get all of this apart, you can change out this switch.

Thanks, VWSANDMAN for these tips. I just finished the job.
I would add the following from my job today:

Plan for plenty of time, if this is the first time you remove the carrier panel from the door.

- to tape the window glass in place in the "up" position: The metal clips sometimes hold the glass very tightly, even after the screws have been loosened. It is awkward to try and pull the glass upwards. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the easily accessible portion of the clip (that faces you) away from the glass; leave the bolts loose.
- snap the window control switch out of the door panel that you already removed and re-attach the switch to the electrical connectors
- using the window mechanism, lift the window all the way up and tape it into place
- now lower the window mechanism - the clips will let go of the window. Run the mechanism down so that you can access the clip bolts again through the two openings for later re-assembly. The controlled lowering the glass into the clips once you are done is easy. If you insist, you can do the reverse procedure and use the window mechanism.

***
- "similar" microswitches, varying in size, are readily available
- I used a smaller-than-the-original switch, hot-glued it into place; works. Clean the surfaces with Windex or alcohol, use "heavy duty" hot glue.
- adjusting the switch: make sure the door latch is in the OPEN position and slide the switch close enough so that the button is depressed. Wait for the glue to settle. Test: with the door latch in the LOCKED position, the switch button is NOT DEPRESSED. Now seal the switch in place with plenty of hot glue.

To test the assembly:
- mount the lock assembly onto the carrier panel, attach electrical connector, slide carrier panel into place (in the door), attach the 2 bolts that secure the lock, put one screw in that holds the carrier panel.
- attach the electrical connectors at the inside of the A pillar (without threading them through the openings)
- attach the cable to the outside door handle
- mount the lock cylinder

- the quick test to see whether the car recognizes that the door is open:
close door, lock with key fob, horn beeps (unless you disabled this function)
unlock car but do not open door; wait and watch - locks re-lock after about a minute
- lock again, then unlock and open door.
If your switch works, the locks will NOT re-lock with the door open.

If the test pans out, re-assemble the whole thing and be happy about the money saved!

 

[bam_bam_dip]

Wingnut, your solution for this door fixed has been a blessing for me but now I've got the rear drivers side door acting up. Going to the auto parts store tonight for some more contact cleaner. Hopefully it's just gunked up a bit.

Does anyone know the exact location of the microswitch on the rear door of a MIV Jetta? I guess I'll grab a couple of extra cans of cleaner and work it over real good.

 

[leroy_in_fresno]

door switch woes

While I am driving my 1999 New Beetle occasionally the interior lights will come on and the ding ding ding ding will go off, in addition I many times will be unable to lock the car using the remote, This all started happening after I had a nail pulled out of my passenger rear tire, the tire shop jacked the car up, and I am wondering if flexing the body of the car could damage the door lock switches??

 

[TDavId]

I did the Wingnut spray technique for my door switch and it did the trick. Lots of road dust in there. It took quite a bit of working the latch back and forth- I could hear the switch clicking on and off (coinciding with the inside door/trouble light coming on and off too). Thanks for the tip.

 

[truman]

Thanks to Wingnut's picture of the locking assembly, I chose a different approach to switch replacement. I tried the spray cleaner first with no effect. I cut a 1"x1" hole in the door jam to remove and replace the switch and closed up the surgery site with an Al sheet metal plate. Future access and repair/switch replacemant will now be a 45min job. At this point, the surgery appears to be a success. Time will tell.

 

[DieselDrink]

TDavID & Bambam: How much did you of the cleaner or contact cleaner did you spray in the door latch? I've tried that, but did you spray tons of it and just keep working the latch? Like dowse the thing?

 

[bam_bam_dip]

Copius amounts!! Even as fast as it evaporates, I had it pouring out the bottom of the door. I used a little over 1 can for 1 door.
Don't forget to work the latch a bunch as well.

 

[DieselDrink]

Ha ha. Ok. Seriously, that helps, cus I was just spraying a bit in there, working the latch, spraying a bit more. But not copious amounts. So I'll try that!

Thx

 

[oldpoopie]

Thanks to Wingnut's picture of the locking assembly, I chose a different approach to switch replacement. I tried the spray cleaner first with no effect. I cut a 1"x1" hole in the door jam to remove and replace the switch and closed up the surgery site with an Al sheet metal plate. Future access and repair/switch replacemant will now be a 45min job. At this point, the surgery appears to be a success. Time will tell.

EEEkkkk. You cut a hole in the door jam???? Why on earth would you do that. It only takes 45 min to take the door apart and put back together anyway!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Jetta4Jeff]

Door switch fix...

I had some problems with my drivers front door:
- no interior dome light with door open;,
- no 'puddle' light with door open; and finally,
- unexpected occurances of automatic door re-lock and alarm re-arm with door open.
I checked the puddle light to see if it was burnt out and looked to see if a fuse needed replacing. I was stumped...
Obviously it was time to do research.
As I read this series of threads, I realised that it was either a non-operational switch inside the door or an open contact/broken wire.
Other than fighting to stay awake for 2 hours while waiting for the car, I am happy to report that the dealership replaced a 'burnt' switch assy., under warranty, this morning.
Research pays pays big dividends in knowledge and relieves frustration.
My thanks to those 'more knowledgable' who came before me AND took the time to write!
Jeff