Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
I was just wondering if i have the same problem as most of the other people on this thread. My keyless entry has gone before i bought the car from the previous owner. and now i have to manually open the 2000 jetta tdi with the key (switchblade) and sometimes when i do that the car doesn't recognize that the door is unlocked and the little red light keeps flashing even when the door is manually unlocked. Sometimes if this happends the alarm even goes off.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Misiu, it sounds like u have both problems (remote, and lock module)
I'd try to diagnose the lock module first.
If you disarm from the driver-side cylinder, can you walk around to the pass. side and open that door w/ good result?
 

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
Ive actually taken apart the door lock module with success and resoldered the connection joints which was causing the intermittent connection. When taking apart the door lock module i could not get the one screw at the bottom open so i pried it all open and the locking mechanism went everywhere... spent some time trying to figure it all out and was left with one spring that looks kindof like a hook with a bend in it. If someone knows where this spring lies and has visuals that would be greatly appreciated. But going back to the problem i fixed the connection and now a series of other symptoms have come about ... i can unlock manually from the driver side (only once ) and then when i try to turn the key again to unlock the rest of the doors it won't let me. and now i'm curious to know if maybe something else has gone. if anyone has any suggestions to help this problem being fixed that would be awesome!

Thanks ... Matt
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Hey Matt, I believe you have now encountered the "Selective Unlocking" feature. Whether you press twice on the key fob remote (to disarm/unlock), or whether you turn the key counter-clockwise twice in succession, it'll activate Selective Unlocking (for all doors), if at all possible.

The electric windows feature (all up; all down; if you hold the key in the cw or ccw position) also involves the Comfort CCM and adapts to whether it can sense all four windows.

After you've disconnected the battery, or after you've modified the door lock modules, the comfort CCM may not be aware of all of the door lock modules yet. There's a simple procedure for making it learn all of the equipment, afterward. Something involving the key, and raising/lowering the windows; and, the throttle position sensor (foot pedal).

I'm kind of busy at the moment, but you might do some searches for Selective Unlocking, comfort CCM adaptation, etc.

Also, if (I kind of doubt it) you need to manually re-program the Selective Unlocking feature (via VAG-COM / VCDS), here's a web page from the vendor (Ross Tech), that explains about that --
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vwmkIV.html
Look halfway down the page, at controller i.d. "46" which is "Central Convenience".
Larry
 

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
I really appreciate that you have taken the time to reply to my problem and helping me diagnose it. I have tried contacting someone here in Lethbridge Alberta Canada that has a vagcom because i currently do not own one but one of these days i'd like to invest in it. I would just like to ask you if you know of any way of programming this without the vag com? ive done research and it doesn't seem like theres too many people out there that know of one. and i know this is off topic but i was running my AC a few days ago and it was fairly warm and i pressed the recirculation button and everything was fine until i wanted to do it again on another day and it did not want to turn on ... any suggestions?
 

l_c

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Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Vag-com/vcds can be used w/ some 3rd-party obd-II cables, but then some functions are unavailable, i don't know the details but u might find out from their website.
Not sure whether you'll really need it anyway.
U should be able to get fault codes scanned/reset at a local auto parts or tune-up shop?
Need more clarif. On a/c issue, is the compressor clutch not responding, and you're sure you turned ON the fan switch? I don't have Climatronic, just the basic system.
Larry
 

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
So ive found someone here in lethbridge that had the vag com cable and we hooked up my 2000 jetta tdi and we searched for error codes in the ccm and sure enough just like you said it was the selective locking method. everything works great with that now. i was just wondering if you knew anything about keyless entry remotes because like i mentioned earlier in the thread i would like to somehow reprogram the keys to get the keyless entry to work again but i'm not sure if thats possible. both of my keys work normally as it goes for manually opening the door and starting the car i'm not sure that helps but when we searched up vagcom we found that i do not have the true immobilizer settings on my car that it doesn't reprogram the codes every time. if you know anything please let me know thanks a lot!
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
Sorry Matt, I haven't had to do any of those programming exercises (yet).
All I can offer is that you might find the answer in the following informative pages (surely there are more comprehensive forum posts as well, try on forums.vwvortex.com) -- Perhaps the 1st link shown here is what you were asking about?: (remote matching)
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw-remote-matching.html
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Immobilizer_IV_Key_Matching
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer.html
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/tour/pin-skc.html


Larry
 

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
The above information is really great and i appreciate it. although i'm not too sure that the cause of my remotes dying is losing its code because both of the keys have the ability to start the car. from waht ive heard it might be either the little reciever that accepts signals or its the remote itself that isn't sending signals. i'm not exactly sure how to test for that but if you have anymore info about it i would love to read it
thanks larry!
Matt
 

Misiu101

Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Location
Lethbridge, Ab Canada
TDI
2000 MK4
i have jusst boughten all new batteries for both of the remotes and that doesn't seem to help i'm thinking of purchasing a new/used remote with the same codings off e-bay and then try to use that one on my car then i will know if its the reciever or the remote itself.
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
astrolumen said:
Actually, I'm getting quite good at tearing down and putting the door back together, so that is now less of an issue.

However, it would still be nice to get this switch to work in the right way.

The score: driver side door was never recognized as open nor closed. Removed switch to reveal this catastrophic failure:



Replaced it with the V4NS-UL switch from allied electronics, which is the exact same switch. I installed it with the door latch in the "open" position. After putting everything back together, the door did respond to being open and closed, just in the opposite way (door open sensed door closed and the reverse). :confused: I have a feeling that this could be corrected quite simply, even if it means taking the door apart again (no big deal now). Any ideas??
Ditto for me:



I ordered the allied but was looking for some advice on mounting and adjusting the switch. Here is my thoughts:

- Clip the old switch wires and strip
- get some wire connectors and electrical tape
- connect the switch wires to the old wires

Her is where its fuzzy, how do I actually mount the switch? Is there holes to put a screw through? What is the best way to maintin adjustability? I know the door being opened and closed will test just how well I mount this thing. Any advice would be great!
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
Also, who is going to make the "I replaced the 4th Microswitch" TShirts? I think after this ordeal we all need one.
 

Funguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2005
Location
Front Range of Colorado
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen dsg and 2015 Passat 6 M/T
Funguy said:
FWIW I went the contact cleaner route today. I made several heavy applications of contact cleaner and a good high pressure air application. Along with these cleaner applications I also used a metal rod (philips screwdriver) and rapidly worked the latch open and closed while holding the outer door handle open. From here I went high tech and began banging the area with a rubber mallet. (Anybody want me to work on their car?? :D ) It worked intermittently and now the fix has lasted several hours.

It doesn't seem like it will be long term fix and I will post if the switch fails again.
The fix has not held up well at all. :(
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
Yup, you need to replace the switch, mine should arrive tomorrow, I'll post some pics of my rigging.
 

rico_law78

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
2000 Jetta
Hey fellas, how's it going? I'm new here, my first post. Heard about the forums through a thread on VWvortex. I think I might have the door lock issue. Here's my question:

* Would this issue cause my new battery to drain 100% dead?

2000 JETTA GLS - here are my symptoms:
- Headlight chime doesn't sound
- Puddle lights don't work on driver's side when open
- If I use the key, the alarm goes off after manually opening the door and starting the car. If I use the FOB, it works fine.
- Alarm arms even when the trunk is open
- FOB won't open trunk (interior switch will)
All of these symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the alarm arms/disarms properly, and sometimes the headlight chime works. The alternator checked out fine. Thanks for any and all thoughts/suggestions!
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
rico_law78 said:
Hey fellas, how's it going? I'm new here, my first post. Heard about the forums through a thread on VWvortex. I think I might have the door lock issue. Here's my question:

* Would this issue cause my new battery to drain 100% dead?

2000 JETTA GLS - here are my symptoms:
- Headlight chime doesn't sound
- Puddle lights don't work on driver's side when open
- If I use the key, the alarm goes off after manually opening the door and starting the car. If I use the FOB, it works fine.
- Alarm arms even when the trunk is open
- FOB won't open trunk (interior switch will)
All of these symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the alarm arms/disarms properly, and sometimes the headlight chime works. The alternator checked out fine. Thanks for any and all thoughts/suggestions!
Sounds to me like a posessed door lock module (just based on what you wrote). There are 4 micro switches in the door lock module. You could get ambitious and rest/replace them, or you could get a new module around $117USD.

You could at the least take it out, open it up and check the wires/solders/connections and go from there. Mine is the 4th mircoswitch which is the easiest with least number of issues. If I had your issues, I would just replace the whole thing. Follow the instrucitons on VWVortex, they are AMAZING and its actually pretty easy to do. I took my time and had the whole door apart and module out in 1.5 hours the first time.
 

rico_law78

Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
2000 Jetta
Cool, thanks Z. I agree, I am gonna get the whole module. Where did you find one for $117? Everywhere I looked (dealer & 1stvwparts.com) are like $170+

Thanks again.
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
rico_law78 said:
Cool, thanks Z. I agree, I am gonna get the whole module. Where did you find one for $117? Everywhere I looked (dealer & 1stvwparts.com) are like $170+

Thanks again.
Yeah, I never actually found one, but thats just what I read. If they are that expensive try buying one of the ones off Ebay - I saw some for $49+ shipping, or try a scrapyard.

Otherwise, you could try the 4th switch replacement to see what it resolves, then go from there. Its the cheapest and easiest. Im going to post some detailed instructions on mounting the switch once I get mine in.
 

l_c

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Location
San Jose, CA USA
TDI
Wrecked and gone: VW Jetta wagon 2002 silver TDI
I had bought mine from worldimpex, but not recently.
I called them (to find out the correct part) and the cost for the lock modules was a lot less than 170. Larry

rico_law78 said:
Cool, thanks Z. I agree, I am gonna get the whole module. Where did you find one for $117? Everywhere I looked (dealer & 1stvwparts.com) are like $170+

Thanks again.
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
SUCCESS!!!! Got my Allied Electronics switch in the mail today and got to work - needless to say it works like a charm. Thanks sooo much to everyone for posting pics and parts they used to fix the problem. Also props to vwvortex crown (Especially this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=961163 which has the instructions).

I took my time, filed the module by hand, made sure the switch fit perfectly and im REALLY happy with the finished product. The only thing I wish I had done was solder the new switch in instead of crimp, but im away from home for work and had to draw the tool budget somewhere. Here are some pics I posted on VWVortex so If you have seen them sorry for the duplication, but since I relied on pics people posted, I thought I would add mine. Hope it helps:

I ended up going with the higher quality Allied switch, even though the radio shack one fit a bit better (but not water proof).
Cut out the switch:

File the holes out and down (take the time and dont use a dremmel):

My broken switch with the 2 possible replacements:

Switch mounted (took some time to gently file it perfectly in place):





My car in parts:


And here is the MONEY SHOT!!! SUCCESS!!! Thanks Soooo much:
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
Total Cost/Labor for me was:

0.5 hours reading instructions and ordering parts
1.5 hours disassemble
1.5 hours fitting switch (filing, getting screws, finding position etc..)
1.5 hours re-assemble
------------------
Total Labor 5 hours

$10 Allied Switch
$10 rush shipping Allied Switch (im impatient and busy)
$7 had file set (most people have this)
$1 electrical tape
$4 crimper with connectors
$5 Torx bits
$1 machine screws and bolts
$5 plumber putty (which i didnt use cause i wanted to make sure it worked first - maybe some day I will reopen)
----------------------
$43 - if I were at home i could have purchased the $3 radio shack switch and used my own tools)

Overall well worth the time and money - who doesnt like taking the car apart?
 

supersloth

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Location
Guilderland, NY
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI; 2004 Jetta Wagon TDI
thanks z!

hey, just popping my first-post cherry with this. wanted to say thanks to z for the pics here. i've got to tackle this at some point soon on my driver's and passenger's front doors and the one thing i didn't completely comprehend was the re-mounting of the new switch and what to file/dremel out. i'm also going to be taking your advice and using a file, not a dremel.

Thanks!
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
Ah good point super, I should have posted some clarification here, but I got a bit ambitious when I took it apart. When you take out the original latch assembly, the stitch is rivited on by pastic rivets. All you need to do is take a sharp blade and CAREFULLY (as to not hurt yourself), cut off the backs of the pastic rivets so the switch will pop off. When you see it, it will be obvious.

This picture shows where to slice the rivets off:



Just have lots of patience. Im not a mechanic, but followed the instructions slowly and it worked perfectly. For all those angry at VW for the defective part, have solice that I had the handle of my Accord stop working, and the Jetta is way better engineered to fix things than the Honda. Taking apart the Honda door was like opening a pandoras box of frustration in the form of stray cables, crazy rods and GLUED on pastic weather shielding! Two bloody knuckles later its still misbehaving;)

As for the dremmel, its not needed, a file takes longer, but you get more accurate mount. A small round file is only a couple bucks too, I got a whole small file set with 8 files for $6.

Do it right, its the Teutonic way. Good luck and post if you have problems, or success.
 

unixb0y

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2003
Location
Manitoba, Canada
TDI
2013 Passat Comfortline 6MT Nav
zwickau said:
My broken switch with the 2 possible replacements:
Would you say that the replacement switch is of better quality than the original? Are you expecting the new switch to fail as easy as the original?
 

zwickau

Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Location
Canada
TDI
2.0 Gas
The old and new switches are both made by Burgress. I never saw the switch contact point of the old switch as it was broken when I removed it, but Im hoping the new switch is of better quality. Time will tell :)
 

macdave

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Jul 28, 2008
Location
Olympia, WA
TDI
2001 Beetle, 2003 Jetta Wagon, 2004 Jetta Wagon
unixb0y said:
Would you say that the replacement switch is of better quality than the original? Are you expecting the new switch to fail as easy as the original?

The white one is better since it is a sealed switch to keep water out, it will still break like the original one. To keep it from breaking it would be better to use a lever or roller activated switch. A pin switch like the original one is not meant to be operated by a cam and the torque from the cam breaks it off after a while.
 

jurgen01

Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Location
Florida, US
TDI
passat, 2005, grey
My early 2005 Jetta seems to be different it only has two switches. One inside on a Printed circuit board the other one outside like above. The Bentley manual does not show such module. Does any one know what the connections are for the new module. Mine gets stuck in a closed position. What does the outside switch do?
Thanks.
 
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