Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

[irvingj]

Good on ya, TDIcommuter! I love it when resourceful people find another --and usually cheaper-- way.

This micro-switch reminds me of my time working in a school back in the early 90s. Our poor computer-lab lady was having to pay $75 a pop for a new mouse (Mac Plus computers) when their switches failed -- she was told they couldn't be fixed. I took a look and found an Omron D2F was a direct replacement; they cost, even in small quantities, about $1.50 each.

Took me about 6 minutes to remove a dead one and solder a new one onto the mouse's circuit board. Yep, I fixed quite a few of them....

 

[Grapeape]

I'm hoping someone can tell me if I can jump wires across the wires just so the car thinks the door is always closed. It's my commuter car I don't care about replacing the switch I know there's 8 wires numbered 1 through 8 can anyone tell me which wires to jump to tell the computer the door is always closed.

 

[turbocharged798]

VE1.9 gets kudos from me for finding the Omron switches that fit perfectly, unfortunately/fortunately last week when I wanted to order some of them, everyone was out of the D2HW-BR213MR. Because of that I did a bit of digging into the Omron data sheet. I found the following two alternate part numbers for switches that have solder on lugs instead of the wire leads:

Left door locks: D2HW-BL211H
Right door locks: D2HW-BR211H

The good news is that they are ~$5.00 cheaper for each switch bringing the Mouser price down to $3.08 or $3.41, which I find remarkably fitting considering the thread name. If the leads are snipped at the stock switch, they are plenty long enough to solder to the switch.

The connections for the correct normally open behavior are the center lug and the one under the button. Another added benefit doing it this way vs. soldering the leads to the board is that you do not have to open the door lock module at all. Just remove it from the door, remove the stock switch, clip the leads, solder them to the new switch, and melt the tabs for mounting and it is ready to go back in. Literally less than a 5 minute job when the door lock module is removed from the vehicle assuming you remembered to have your soldering iron heating up while removing the module from the door.

Big kudos to everyone who contributed to this ongoing thread. This current switch is a big reliability upgrade from the stock switch, is remarkably inexpensive, and installs very easily. I'm glad to have been able to contribute some useful info.

Thank you so much for this. Just put in an order for mouser and used a combination of solder lugs for the left side and wires for the right because it was all they had in stock.

 

[KrashDH]

I recently had a go at rebuilding a door module. This was actually a spare I wanted to repair ahead of time so I can just swap it in. I ordered some microswitches that resembled the OEM switches and actually fit in the original mounting holes. They're very similar to the ones someone had posted earlier in this thread, except that these have wire leads. They're made by Omron. I went with these switches because the OEM ones with a lever are far more expensive. The only difference between the two different microswitches I ordered is that they have the mounting posts on opposite sides for left/right fitment.

The part numbers are:

Left: D2HW-BL213MR
Right: D2HW-BR213MR

Here you can see how similar they are to the OEM switches, with the button, mounting posts, and wire leads in the same locations. Additionally, these have a lever, so they'll last far longer than the OEM switches.

I melted the mounting posts using the soldering gun. No screws, nuts, or glue required. It was mounted on there solid and just like the OEM switch.

Latch in closed position:

Latch in open position:

I soldered the leads directly to the circuit board so it looks factory. I also put some epoxy over the solder joints to help protect them.

I think this is the best bang for buck option if you want a microswitch that is probably gonna outlast the car and have the repair look as OEM as possible without paying extra for the OEM microswitches.

I think I know the answer, but can anyone verify that the front and back doors utilize the same switch? I just fixed my driver side front door the other day, and now my rear driver side is intermittent. Figured it out because of a random alarm going off.

I would need to order a couple more from Mouser if so

 

[pkhoury]

Now I'm eager to find time to do this this weekend. Just got 12 switches for each side from Mouser today.

 

[KrashDH]

Now I'm eager to find time to do this this weekend. Just got 12 switches for each side from Mouser today.

It's nice when you finally get it done. I did this a little while back. Pretty easy once you get to the switch. Removing the rear window was a PITA on the back compared to the front on my Golf. Well, reinstall was more a pain

 

[P2B]

Removing the rear window was a PITA on the back compared to the front on my Golf. Well, reinstall was more a pain

No need to remove any windows - just tape them so they can't fall and disconnect the regulator from the glass.

 

[KrashDH]

No need to remove any windows - just tape them so they can't fall and disconnect the regulator from the glass.

Makes sense...that might work for the front but I don't think it will work for the rear door, as the guide is in the way of getting the rear latch out...so that window guide has to come out. Only way for that guide to come out is to remove the window...unless I'm missing something?

 

[P2B]

Makes sense...that might work for the front but I don't think it will work for the rear door, as the guide is in the way of getting the rear latch out...so that window guide has to come out. Only way for that guide to come out is to remove the window...unless I'm missing something?

Pretty sure I have finagled the latch past the guide on a Jetta, but I have not worked on a Golf.

 

[Fahrvegnugen]

Left door locks: D2HW-BL211H
The lugs are labeled 1,3,2 in this orientation. Does blue wire go to 3 and red wire go to 2?

IMG_0889.jpeg

• Fahrvegnugen
• Sep 17, 2022
• 1

D2HW-BL211H left door microswitch

 

[P2B]

Connect to the common and NC (normally closed) pins. Wire color doesn't matter.

 

[Fahrvegnugen]

I couldn’t tell which pin is common and NC since the pins are only marked with numbers. Wired it anyway. The doors lock and unlock which is encouraging.

Putting the lock pin that goes up and down in the door is what ended the project. The plastic circle on the module that the twisted metal plugs into broke off. Nice thing is now if the door is locked it wont be a surprise.

Was thinking it wasn’t worth messing with the module now I’m thinking I’ll just replace the door.

 

[Dolcesails]

Ok fellas, I've had a problem with the door locking thing, I took it all apart and found perhaps a previous owner had been in there I discovered a plug off the DLM when I put it on it fell right off, the locking tab is broken, holding it on there it worked in one direction wiggling it and holding it I got the thing to work in the other direction but not fully......so I'm thinking a new DLM and where's the best place to buy one I saw good and bad reviews on the DLM, where am I going to find the plug as well.....thank you for ALL this great information

 

[Nuje]

Photos would help people here discern if you needed a new module.

As for where to buy....trusted vendors here: idparts.com and cascadegerman.com. I've gone with cheap ($50) Chinese knockoffs from Amazon and they've been doing the trick on a number of cars for a few years now.
Will they last 15-20yrs like the OEM? Probably not. But then again, some of the OEM didn't last more than a few years either, so.... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[P2B]

Ok fellas, I've had a problem with the door locking thing, I took it all apart and found perhaps a previous owner had been in there I discovered a plug off the DLM when I put it on it fell right off, the locking tab is broken

The locking tab is on the connector, so it will fall off a new module too. If you can't find another way to secure it (zip tie?) you may need to de-pin and replace. Might also benefit from an application of contact cleaner if it's been exposed for a while.

 

[Dolcesails]

I didn't see how a zip tie would work, but I have found a plug on Ebay once the plug is off nothing works that plug supports

 

[Nuje]

The plug should have a part number on it; most connectors like that from the dealer are in the $3-$10 range. Or, if you're ever at a scrap yard, a pair of cutting pliers gets you one even cheaper (assuming the door's been gutted).

 

[shoebear]

This is for your 2014? Your local Pull and Pay junkyard might have a car with the appropriate connector and/or module -- they are still kinda new for junkyards to have, but I'm starting to see one here or there in my local yard. Also, it's possible that a previous gen car uses the same connector - worth checking, anyway. If you have the right contact removal tool, swapping a connector shell is tedious, but not too hard. Just make sure 1) you keep the wires in the correct locations in the new shell and 2) that all the wires are fully seated and snapped in.

 

[Dolcesails]

Up date replaced drivers door lock mechanism and everything works as it should...moving on to head lite replacement then interior door panels, heard there is a gentleman north of Tampa that makes them out of fiberglass thanks again for all your help

 

[alpine_climb]

I'm hoping someone can tell me if I can jump wires across the wires just so the car thinks the door is always closed. It's my commuter car I don't care about replacing the switch I know there's 8 wires numbered 1 through 8 can anyone tell me which wires to jump to tell the computer the door is always closed.

I tore the door apart enough to get to the wires from the micro switch and just cut one of them. The micro switch will always be open, and the car will always think the door is closed.

This thread is like good cream as another pointed out and everyone will need it sooner or later.

 

[P2B]

The micro switch will always be open, and the car will always think the door is closed.

... making it more likely keys will get locked in the car - just saying

 

[Franko6]

When working on a vehicle, I always leave the keys in the ignition and the driver's window down. It surely has happened to me that the doors have automatically locked.

 

[AndyBees]

There's a few things you just can't trust ......... auto locking doors and a *art come to mind!

 

[Franko6]

I didn't say the rest of that story... I was breaking an engine in, the hood for some reason was down and I had a stick on the pedal, holding 3,000rpm, the last romp before I shut it down... THE DOORS LOCKED!

The customer came in with me working a wire to unlock the door... She turned around and went for a walk. LOL! Damn thing probably took 5 minutes to unlock... felt like an hour.

 

[1981caddy]

Can anyone or @Franko6 confirm how many switches are needed per door lock module? My driver's side front door first started not unlocking with fob and now even the key won't unlock it although the key will make all the door locks unlock and I can hear the driver's door actuator move it just does not unlock it. Interior handle is fully functional currently. Any information is greatly appreciated.

 

[shoebear]

Can anyone or @Franko6 confirm how many switches are needed per door lock module?

There is one switch per lock module.

 

[Nuje]

There's just the one switch, but numerous potential fail points, and hence the variability of the "bad switch" symptoms.
HumbleMechanic does a great job breaking it down here.

 

[1981caddy]

There's just the one switch, but numerous potential fail points, and hence the variability of the "bad switch" symptoms.
HumbleMechanic does a great job breaking it down here.

Thank you for the info and video!

 

[shoebear]

Thank you for the info and video!

Actually, there are two switches, but the one inside the electronics module rarely, if ever fails. The one that fails is the one that senses the mechanical location of the lock plate.