Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

[BobnOH]

So you can't see these?<Click
Or are they tagged "Photobucket"? Photobucket removed public access.

 

[babydoll]

having same problem but mine knows when door is open or closed , comfort relays click when u try to lock or unlock it with doors open or closed?? lights on when open , off when closed

 

[andyboy]

After years of dilly dallying and checking this forum I ordered a switch from aliexpress.com and it works fine. Can't find exact link but search aliexpress.com for "Left Door Lock Micro Switch For VW Passat B5"

 

[dieselboy55]

An alternative way to fix this problem without soldering, gluing, or using a Dremel, if the connection to the PCB is good, but the actual plunger on the switch is worn down.

Order a new Burgess submicro switch with the same dimensions as original part. Also purchase a 4mm or 5/32 all aluminum pop rivit. Replace top half of worn down switch with top half of new one. Clean lock mechanism while you're there. Do not add any grease between switch and cam because it will attract dirt.


Order switch here
https://canada.newark.com/saia-burgess/v4nct7/microswitch-plunger-spdt-co-5a/dp/16M4255

 

[yurtesen]

Have you tried complete lock mechanisms from AliExpress? If I type 6X1 837 014 C , I get some rather cheap ones.

 

[towforce]

Passenger lock on my RHD 2-door R32 just went out.

Ordered new lock from VW.

Very pleased to see it is now updated with the metal blade switch to ride on the lock cam.

Old lock for left (passenger) door was 3B2837015L number.

Replacement lock is part number is 6X2837013N

These would be numbers for a RHD 2-door car.

I love this thread! Like cream it is always rising back up to the top

The switch used in the post above seemed like such a positive solution, sadly not the "silver bullet". Several years back I purchased the drivers side module and installed it (from IDparts)

Oh, this was after first mucking about with multiple cleaning adventures, fixing cold solder joints on the board and mashing about with various micro switches and purchasing a cheap Ebay/China module that failed on install.

I then started to have trouble with the passenger side. (it was 5 years after I installed the drivers side). Ok, no big deal... IDparts for the module and I'm getting to be an expert on breaking little VW plastic bits and ripping out the door regulator! After a couple hours, new module was in and everything was working perfectly. Cleaned up the tools and was sitting in the house when the alarm went off in the car?... walked out, turned of the alarm and tried to re-set it and... hmmm the doors wont lock? Drag out the VCDS, a couple "improbable" codes were tossed... but the big one... Drivers side module was shown as "open" ... you guessed it...just sitting in the carport it decides to die! Pulled the module (got this down to a 30 min job... Tested the switch (the new style shown above....) its dead and showing open all the time.

Its Christmas eve... I have 4 modules sitting on the bench and out of this pile of junk I'm going to get one of them to be a part source for the other (The China module has nifty old style switch that is just clipped in place but... you guessed it different then the fitting on the updated switch.. amazing how the electrics and mechanics of these module assemblies vary!).

Curious, is there anyway to just turn off the computer aspect of the system? (immobilizer and monitoring function?)

Oh... just for sport... my wife mentioned the rear latch was also acting up... the door switches in this car are giving me a drinking problem

Cheers

 

[JB05]

Tow, what DTC's are showing up? I too replaced the driver's side lock module, but that did not fix my temperature sensitive door ajar light. I've been told that my car alarm goes off in the middle of the night. VCDS shows a 01358 code that points to the "internal door lock switch." A complete auto scan shows 01330 and 01336, no communication from the CCM.

 

[towforce]

Tow, what DTC's are showing up? I too replaced the driver's side lock module, but that did not fix my temperature sensitive door ajar light. I've been told that my car alarm goes off in the middle of the night. VCDS shows a 01358 code that points to the "internal door lock switch." A complete auto scan shows 01330 and 01336, no communication from the CCM.

In my case the one doors switch (driver) entered an "open door" mode with the alarm on, activating the alarm. To confuse things, when the door is closed the latch should put the switch into a "open" state, for what ever reason is suddenly acquired continuity (closed switch) which told the computer the door had been opened. From that point on it saw the door as open and would not lock by the fob or with the key. And of course could not be driven (unless you wanted to listen to the alert). As far as I can tell this sort of failure does not set a DTC.

After pulling the whole thing apart, I did find a bunch of muck in the switch area including material jammed under the spring steel follower (of the new style switch) that was preventing the switch pin from moving to the open position (closed door position). Best as I can tell it simply so close to open or closed it could go either way.

Of course chasing this issue has been compounded by another issue (which is going to be much more delightful to chase down)....

2 Faults Found:

01141 - Luggage Compartment Unlocking Switch (E165)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
00947 - Trunk Lid remote Control Switch (E188)
29-00 - Short to Ground

This car gets lots of dirt roads for abuse. My bet is this is going to be a failed or poor micro switch in the rear tailgate key assembly or latch micro-switch.. Drivers door control and FOB is intermittent in allowing the tailgate to be opened. The intermittent values are throwing a code..... there is allot of wire between the computer and the devices.... I'm hoping the problem resides at the devices and not in the wires.

 

[yurtesen]

@towforce how did your chinese module fail on install? Did you compare genuine module's and vw module's insides and construction material for quality differences? If it was few years back, I guess they could have improved the quality who knows...


Was it one of these? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MK4/32950538114.html
The price is crazy, almost same price as buying only switch.

 

[towforce]

Its been awhile since replaced, as I recall it caused some sort of "unrecognized" device code (or something like that...). The failure was related to the locks opening and closing randomly during the speed related "auto" lock. They would work fine, then not....

Quality, I had no issues with how the Chinese knockoff was built, it had very minor differences in the latch mechanism but essentially would do the same job. The switch itself was kind of cool how it just had clip to hold it in place but it was the old version switch. I have to assume the lock motor or something in the CB created a out of range value that the computer rejected. Maybe I was unlucky, but as they say if it sounds too good (cheap) to be true?

On the IDparts supplied module, the new style switch is much better but I suspect its not a good idea to use anything more than compressed air to clean it off, spray cleaners look like they can flood the switch as there are gaps between the switch and its "holder" that can cause the switch to become immersed. (the bottom of the switch where the wires enter are completely sealed causing the holder to retain moisture. (at least that's how it looks to me....)

 

[yurtesen]

@towforce The switch is sealed all around. Nothing can go inside unless the seals fail. The metal lever on top of the switch is to avoid horizontal movement being transmitted to the button. It also creates a buffer zone by flexing when the pressure is too high. This effectively reduce tolerance requirements for production. It should reduce the wear slightly and make the switch work more reliably.

I think some problems with chinese parts is softer metals or wrong metals used. Sometimes they are missing weather sealing, andthe electronics seem to use cheaper components. So perhaps lifetime is not so long. But they work for a while

In the past I bought recirculation flap servo from china and interior electronics was bad. For example there was a round resistance strip where an arm turns to determine position of the item. If I remember correctly the VW unit use some black graphite strip and china unit was different (cheaper looking) strip. Also the VW part's arm which runs on the resistance strip was really soft designed to not scratch it. But the chinese unit had harder and sharp metal piece. I did not trust that it will last very long. I ended up swapping the broken part from china part into genuine vw part.

But some chinese parts are actually quite usable...It is a hit or miss situation really. They usually work but either slowly damage the car or slowly they get broken themselves.

 

[2000alhVW]

@towforce The switch is sealed all around. Nothing can go inside unless the seals fail. The metal lever on top of the switch is to avoid horizontal movement being transmitted to the button. It also creates a buffer zone by flexing when the pressure is too high. This effectively reduce tolerance requirements for production. It should reduce the wear slightly and make the switch work more reliably.

I think some problems with chinese parts is softer metals or wrong metals used. Sometimes they are missing weather sealing, andthe electronics seem to use cheaper components. So perhaps lifetime is not so long. But they work for a while

In the past I bought recirculation flap servo from china and interior electronics was bad. For example there was a round resistance strip where an arm turns to determine position of the item. If I remember correctly the VW unit use some black graphite strip and china unit was different (cheaper looking) strip. Also the VW part's arm which runs on the resistance strip was really soft designed to not scratch it. But the chinese unit had harder and sharp metal piece. I did not trust that it will last very long. I ended up swapping the broken part from china part into genuine vw part.

But some chinese parts are actually quite usable...It is a hit or miss situation really. They usually work but either slowly damage the car or slowly they get broken themselves.

I can kinda verify this.
I've been dealing in an awful lot of Chinese knock-off/clones lately. My recent experiences have been with with key fobs, some data cables, some light motorized machinery/tools, and other small items.

As with anything, price --> quality. Closely related.
When physically comparing a Chinese variant to a genuine one, the difference is immediately obvious, but still sometimes hard to specifically detect. For example, I bought a couple of key fobs for my 2000 Golf off Alibaba. $9ea. From the outside, they look 97% the same, but not perfectly sized properly. Maybe a little bit of plastic burr left over. Maybe defects in casting. The key blade metal is a slightly different color/sheen, and likely a softer cheaper metal, such as mentioned above. The key blade also doesn't fit flush when closed, and it's a tad loose when opened.
Very small things, but when you compare to a Genuine part, it feels much more sturdy, no play/looseness, etc.

Sometimes the Chinese engineers (it's more than one guy out there, mind you), may miss small details, or omit them entirely to keep costs low. It still boggles my mind how they can produce a door handle for $2.41 on alibaba and ship it to my front door for $1.59

It's 2018 (almost 2019!) and these guys have access to powerful production capabilities. AutoCAD, 3D printing, injection molding, etc etc. China, as a country, has had this stuff for a while now as production has slowly shifted vastly over to China. But now the technology (a 3D printer for example) has come down greatly in cost, and become accessible to even small Chinese firms who can quickly design a shoddy CAD design, pump it out of a low-end 3D printer, or injection molding factory, and shill it on Alibaba.


Even if it is fun to get carried away at uber cheap prices for cool stuff on Alibaba or similar Chinese sites, I always exercise a high amount of caution when considering something precision made, an integral part, or something with high labor time to replace. For example, I will always buy high-end wheel bearings. Never any Dorman junk. I want my wheel bearings to be good, and I don't want to bust my knuckles doing the job twice over.

 

[JettaTDIBlack]

Which exact post shows the $3 fix? It's a lot to wade through via Tapatalk.

dubrs.com

 

[sdean7855]

I have a slightly different door lock problem. My '03 Jetta senses the lock state correctly and all the related stuff works as it should. The problem is that two of my doors' lock buttons are sticking. Sometimes they stick up (key fob lock up works, but car doesn't beep because senses that door isn't locked) or down (in which case I can operate the door release lever to force it up)
Has anyone encountered this? What's the fix?

 

[shoebear]

sdean7855 -- Nearly all the "action" for the locks takes place in the lock module itself. The front doors in particular have a very straightforward mechanical link from the lock module to the visible lock button. The linkage in the rear doors is a bit more complicated, but still pretty simple.

So I would remove the door cards and see if you can see an external mechanical issue. If not, I would replace the lock module. If you don't mind used, you can pick them up at junkyards. Or there are several sources for new/rebuilt ones. If you get used, be sure to install a new microswitch to prevent having to take it all apart again shortly when the old microswitch fails.

Just my $0.02. It's hard to know exactly what's going on until you investigate.

 

[BobnOH]

...................snip.................. If you get used, be sure to install a new microswitch to prevent having to take it all apart again shortly when the old microswitch fails....................snip..................

important

 

[VE1.9]

I recently had a go at rebuilding a door module. This was actually a spare I wanted to repair ahead of time so I can just swap it in. I ordered some microswitches that resembled the OEM switches and actually fit in the original mounting holes. They're very similar to the ones someone had posted earlier in this thread, except that these have wire leads. They're made by Omron. I went with these switches because the OEM ones with a lever are far more expensive. The only difference between the two different microswitches I ordered is that they have the mounting posts on opposite sides for left/right fitment.

The part numbers are:

Left: D2HW-BL213MR
Right: D2HW-BR213MR

Here you can see how similar they are to the OEM switches, with the button, mounting posts, and wire leads in the same locations. Additionally, these have a lever, so they'll last far longer than the OEM switches.

I melted the mounting posts using the soldering gun. No screws, nuts, or glue required. It was mounted on there solid and just like the OEM switch.

Latch in closed position:

Latch in open position:

I soldered the leads directly to the circuit board so it looks factory. I also put some epoxy over the solder joints to help protect them.

I think this is the best bang for buck option if you want a microswitch that is probably gonna outlast the car and have the repair look as OEM as possible without paying extra for the OEM microswitches.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Fantastic post... and just as I am about to do my 100th Jetta door.

Was never really happy with the fitment of the previous Cherry replacements... tiny screws, widening the holes with a Dremel etc etc etc.

Thanks for posting!

 

[shoebear]

Nice find, VE1.9A! Thanks for posting.

 

[arcking]

I recently had a go at rebuilding a door module. This was actually a spare I wanted to repair ahead of time so I can just swap it in. I ordered some microswitches that resembled the OEM switches and actually fit in the original mounting holes. They're very similar to the ones someone had posted earlier in this thread, except that these have wire leads. They're made by Omron. I went with these switches because the OEM ones with a lever are far more expensive. The only difference between the two different microswitches I ordered is that they have the mounting posts on opposite sides for left/right fitment.

The part numbers are:

Left: D2HW-BL213MR
Right: D2HW-BR213MR

Just wanted to give a big thanks to VE1.9 for this insight. I ordered a couple of switches from DigiKey and everything worked perfectly using Kuject Solder Seal Wire Connectors to tie these in.

 

[WashMachine]

Thank god these cars don't have those signals like when you forget headlights on but for the doors

 

[benshaw]

excellent find VE1.9.

they must be recently made be the company.

 

[Warthog]

Now that Radio Shack is gone....so nice to know about an alternate replacement for these switches.
I need to fix my 2000 Jetta with this problem. It's been locking itself for a while now, I just thought it was paranoid about strangers.

 

[libbybapa]

VE1.9 gets kudos from me for finding the Omron switches that fit perfectly, unfortunately/fortunately last week when I wanted to order some of them, everyone was out of the D2HW-BR213MR. Because of that I did a bit of digging into the Omron data sheet. I found the following two alternate part numbers for switches that have solder on lugs instead of the wire leads:

Left door locks: D2HW-BL211H
Right door locks: D2HW-BR211H

The good news is that they are ~$5.00 cheaper for each switch bringing the Mouser price down to $3.08 or $3.41, which I find remarkably fitting considering the thread name. If the leads are snipped at the stock switch, they are plenty long enough to solder to the switch.

The connections for the correct normally open behavior are the center lug and the one under the button. Another added benefit doing it this way vs. soldering the leads to the board is that you do not have to open the door lock module at all. Just remove it from the door, remove the stock switch, clip the leads, solder them to the new switch, and melt the tabs for mounting and it is ready to go back in. Literally less than a 5 minute job when the door lock module is removed from the vehicle assuming you remembered to have your soldering iron heating up while removing the module from the door.

Big kudos to everyone who contributed to this ongoing thread. This current switch is a big reliability upgrade from the stock switch, is remarkably inexpensive, and installs very easily. I'm glad to have been able to contribute some useful info.

 

[Joannaay]

Ťanks for you sharing

 

[03TDICommuter]

Looks like I get to do this - my driver's door thinks it's closed all the time. Ordering the Omron switches now.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Fixed the driver's side latch today using the Digikey sourced Omron switch with solder lugs. Repair went well, though I was sure I had a wiring break too because testing just the latch plugged back in resulted in no response. Even the power locks no longer worked. Once I plugged everything else back in on the door, all was good. Happy to now have a working dome light. Thanks to those that found the Omron part.

 

[AndyBees]

Looks like I get to do this - my driver's door thinks it's closed all the time. Ordering the Omron switches now.

So, do you have a link to a source for the Omron switches ....?
I need to do my door(s) too!

 

[03TDICommuter]

So, do you have a link to a source for the Omron switches ....?
I need to do my door(s) too!

See post 857 and 864

I bought this for the driver's door "Left door locks: D2HW-BL211H"

 

[03TDICommuter]

So, do you have a link to a source for the Omron switches ....?
I need to do my door(s) too!

Andy (and others). If you prepay your digikey order, they will ship for free! (at least to USA destinations). Prepaid means mail it in with a check. The only gotcha is that some parts have a tariff, and these do. So if you want to mail it in, use the online cart and take it as far as you can so you can get an accurate total. Then send it in with a check and zero'd out shipping charges.

Also, forgot to mention. The plastic tips on the Omron switch are much smaller in diameter than the original, or the holes you're putting them in. I put some UV epoxy into the hole, cured it to take up the space, then mushroomed the peg over with a hot metal dowel