Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

[nvr-enuf]

door handle / lock

I read the link - to me it seems that the person states the amount of turns to remove the lock but does not state how many to screw in for the proper adjustment. I did try different positions but could not find a logic to what helped / did not help. I also did not note the position of the cable in my handle assembly. Right now I have it as tight as possible.

 

[P2B]

I read the link - to me it seems that the person states the amount of turns to remove the lock but does not state how many to screw in for the proper adjustment. I did try different positions but could not find a logic to what helped / did not help.

The retaining screw is just that, it turns a cam which retains the lock. It is not an adjustment.

I also did not note the position of the cable in my handle assembly. Right now I have it as tight as possible.

There's your problem. There is a sweet spot where the handle operates smoothly, too tight or too loose will both prevent the outer handle from opening the door.

Simon

 

[nvr-enuf]

Ok - based on you statements I can tighten the screw that allows the lock tumbler to be removed. Second, I will play with the cable position that attaches to the door handle.

Here is another hint about my issue: If I have my doors unlocked, i can open and close my drivers door. If I lock my doors with my key fob then use the key fob to unlock (twice for all doors), all of my doors will still remained locked. The only way i can get into the car is to physically use my key in the driver's door and turn left twice to unlock all my doors. By doing this, I can get into the other three doors. The drivers door will sometimes allow me to open the door the first stage of the latch which opens the door 1/2 inch.

Regarding the micro switch in the door - Can anyone confirm 100% if the switch should be wired normally open or normally closed?????

I had the switch wired Normally open and this did not seem to communicate to the car when my door was open. When I wired it Normally closed, it seemed to communicate to the car my door was open but now i go to open my door and my interior lights still do not go on!

I do not have my original switch - I think I tossed the switch already plus the switch was pretty damaged.

 

[P2B]

Regarding the micro switch in the door - Can anyone confirm 100% if the switch should be wired normally open or normally closed?????

You need to wire the the Common and Normally Open contacts. 100%

Simon

 

[nvr-enuf]

Ok - looks like I will have to pull the door panel off once again.

I did move the cable in the door handle and you are correct, I can now open my DOOR! Thank you.

I still do not have the ability to unlock all doors with my key fob - once i redo the switch maybe this issue will be solved.

Thanks for your help - I am really happy to once again get into my car. Now I just need interior lights which is why I took it all apart to begin with.

Scott

 

[nvr-enuf]

Hello everyone - I did take the door apart and changed the contacts on the switch to normally open. When the door is "open" the switch is open / contacts are open. When the latch is closed meaning the door is closed, the switch closes and connects the two wires in the switch.

Here is my issue - With the change above which is what the instructions in thread state, my car thinks my door is open when the door is closed. While driving the car dings at me and shows me on the dash that I have a door open. I did read in the bentley book that the vagcom may need to be used after changing this switch - is this my issue?

I have just about had it with this door issue.

Thanks for your help and support.

Scott

 

[mk3]

.... With the change above which is what the instructions in thread state, my car thinks my door is open when the door is closed. While driving the car dings at me and shows me on the dash that I have a door open. I did read in the bentley book that the vagcom may need to be used after changing this switch - is this my issue? ....

Scott

I had a similar issue in an older repair method that I had tried. I don't know of any VAG-COM fix. The cause in my case is that the switch was not positioned quite right. All the functions worked with the latch free (in the kitchen) but when I put the latch on the car the load on the latch must change due to clearances in the latch pivots and it did not function correctly. I cannot remember with 100% confidence but I think the problem was that the car always reported my door as open.

After that mistake I did three latch repairs according to the method I posted in #448 of this thread. Positioning the replacement switch accurately is a bit of a challenge.

I did connect the RED and BLUE wires of the replacement switch which are the normally opened contacts. This agrees with #455 post by member P2B.

I just wonder if your entire latch mechanism has issues other than the switch or if the actuation is not going as you think.

Have you tried leaving the door open but 'closing' the door by pushing the latch closed with a screwdriver? are the results different?- Remember to 'open' it with the door handle before slamming your door closed.

 

[nvr-enuf]

From memory, yes, I closed the latch with the door open and it did not change. I guess I will have to add some jumpers to be able to test the switch continuity with the door fully assembled. I am ready to spend the $200 and be done with it. I have atleast 6 hours screwing around with the switch - VW passenger door switch failed as well. I was hoping to atleast get the driver's door fixed.

 

[mk3]

I tested the door switches just by observing the light on the dash and the overhead lights.... and by listening for the horn to honk when I locked the car. It will not honk if it senses any door is open.

You can also check the door open/closed status in VAG-COM. Adding jumpers would not be fun.

I think the door lock module is about $140 on 1stvwparts.com (dealer parts)

On the other hand....maybe your problem is somewhere else in the wiring or with the computer.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Jumpers would be pretty simple - I am soldering the wires onto the switch, i would think it would be easy compared to the work to remove all the stuff just to get the door switch out. I am bolting the switch into place, maybe I have a short from the switch to ground.

What is weird is that if I open my door and open the latch, the car is then happy and the door light on the dash goes off.

What is also weird is that when the car says the door is open, the door panel light at the bottom (red & white light), stays on but the passenger light does not stay on. The overhead light does stay on - I have the switch set to off.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Scott

 

[dolphinstriker]

I cannot remove the handle piece in which the key slides in. That part must be removed in order to take out the lock module.
I have tightened and loosened the T20 screw to try and free the piece.
Ive stuck screwdrivers in and pushed and banged and wedged. I need help.

 

[nvr-enuf]

To remove the driverside lock "tumbler", you pull the outside door handle like you were to do if you were still trying to open the door, then loosen that #20 torx screw in the door jam. After about 10 turns, try "lightly" prying the tumbler free when you are pulling on the handle. Yours may have wax / something causing it to stick. Be carefull not to scratch the paint / chip the paint.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Well everyone, i added jumpers to my switch and it works out of the car, works in the car before I hook up all the electrical connectors. As soon as I completed the door i tried my wires and no conntinuity. When you close the door, the lower light instantly comes one. When you open the door, the light goes off. I have had it with the $4 switch - i need to get this car cleaned up and sold, looks like I have to break down and get the $120 fix.

 

[Dodoma]

please go ahead and break down and get the $120 fix. This way, atleast you will be able to sell your car.

 

[nvr-enuf]

$184 fix - ordered last night

 

[allana13]

Hi

I am having a similar problem the only diff is that the buzzer that sounds owhen the lights are on when the door is open does not sound.

Any idea on how to fix that one

Thanks

 

[nowback]

I just completed this on my 2003 jetta both drivers and pass door switches were bad
had to oval out the latch holes and had to drill out the holes in the switch itself to get the
switch far enough out to allow free movement.
I left the metal on to protect the switch from rub damage and works great
this is the switch i used for canadians this fix would be called the 6 dollar fix:
http://www.thesource.ca/estore/prod...ne&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750017
cutting off the roller part just past the notches in the leverleaves enough room to turn
the end down a little so it doesnt catch.
I should have taken pics but my camera was dead.lol

 

[nowback]

not sure why it double posted

 

[aymen_a22]

I took my door apart and got all the way down to the door lock mechanism, I then found the switch in very good working condition (tested with a multimeter). Put it all back together and now the door will not unlock properly and the lock is still the same.

When you pull the inside handle the lock pin goes up but then goes down as you let the handle go. What is up with that!

Also inside the lock was a switch that does not seem to be used. It had no switches around the bottom of the lock to know when the car is unlocked or locked.

Any ideas?

 

[Shouse]

How about if the door thinks it's always open? Door light stays on. It still seems like the door switch would be the most applicable answer, but it seems the majority/all swing the other way that the door always thinks it's closed. Therefore I have cabin lights on all the time and they never have cabin lights on. Polar opposite. Thoughts? It does appear to be centered around the front passenger door.

 

[deejaaa]

less than 3 dollar fix. used contact cleaner had lying around. headlights left on, key left in ignition when door opened all give a sound now. puddle light works also.

 

[Fearless44]

picked up the part this morning. gonna try to get around to it in the next couple days. wish me luck.

 

[allana13]

picked up the part this morning. gonna try to get around to it in the next couple days. wish me luck.

Good luck dude.

Please share your experience and pics as well.

 

[Fearless44]

will do. when i get around to it.

 

[jlkoch]

on my door, it turned out to be a failed solder joint on the circuit board, (not the switch)

 

[tleader]

I have looked through a bunch of pages and I haven't seen a wiring diagram for the driver's door. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram for the doors or the color of the wires that are used for the micro switch, mainly the "door open, door closed" switch.

Maybe I'm not getting it, but wouldn't it just be easy to catch the wires inside the car where they travel through the jamb and into the door? You could wire up and install a older style pin switch and tap into the wires without having to pull the regulator and all the door crap.

I know it sounds like a cheap fix, but it would be very easy and would probably outlast the mirco switch replacement.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Toby1]

My door chime and interior lights are coming on periodically even when all doors are definately shut. I suspect one of these $3 door switches. Any ideas on how to figure out which of the 4 door switches is bad? Hate to replace one at at time... Thanks

 

[Lurchalicious]

I have replaced my microswitch in my module and it was fairly easy. However the placement of the switch is VERY touchy. Mine still sticks when the cam releases every time the door opens. Sometimes I have to kick the door to get the switch to work.

In the long run - i will be ordering a part through rock auto and replacing with a new unit; no more patience here.

 

[bob1122]

sweet ty

 

[jrip]

Gentlemen. If you look back on post nr 117 you will see where I replaced my door switch. Pictures are included. I would just like to inject a comment in here. That was just over 4 years and 60,000 miles ago, and it is still working perfectly.