Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!!

[rx7wiz]

I replaced the switch as indicated in the post and it worked well, that is until you get a pouring rain. My "lights on" chime went off as I was driving down the highway and the interior light was flickering as the switch filled with water. I removed the fuse to eliminate the chime until things dried out. That's what the little "bootie" covering the OEM switch plunger must be for!

 

[Keven]

So what is the final verdict? $3 switch is no good?

 

[All of Us]

Keven:

I think the jury is still out on that one. I put the RS switch in my own car and have not had any problems with it. Apparently at least one other person has had problems with it though. One of the posts in this thread lists an alternate switch that, IIRC, has the rubber boot and may be waterproof. It is not from RS and, again IIRC, needed to be special ordered from an electronics parts place. I guess my point is that whoever took the time to come up with a creative and inexpensive alternate to replacing the $180 VW part should be thanked. If their procedure can be improved by someone suggesting a different switch that's even better, but ultimately, anybody with this problem can save some money by fixing it themselves using either the RS switch or suggested alternate. You just need to decide which way you are going to go.

Dan

 

[bobla]

Not always just the micro switch

I have lived with the erratic driver door lock for over a year because I was hesitant to get into tearing the door down. I bought two different micro switches in preparation. The one from Radio Shack and another that was supposed to be an exact replacement, but it turned out it wasn't. Anyway, had the car in a shop to replace the front left drive axle due to a torn CV boot and took the easy way out and told them to fix the door lock too. Gave them the micro switches, but they declined to use them and just replaced the lock module per VW specs.

I brought the old module home and took a look at it. The micro switch was working, although the plunger boot was torn and the plastic plunger looked worn down. What I also found was the rubberized surface of the door latch cam that operates the micro switch was loose and tended to catch on the micro switch plunger and bunch up rather than slide along and move the plunger in and out. It is hard to tell whether the plunger boot failed and the exposed plunger mucked up the cam covering or whether the cam cover loosened and tore up the switch plunger. Either way, replacing the micro switch alone would not have solved the issue.

 

[eb2143]

Need Advice Before Starting: Necessary to remove the entire carrier panel?

I'm extremely tired so hopefully this makes sense.
I'm doing this job tomorrow.

Two questions:
1. MyTurboDiesel.com has a how-to that precludes the entire window regulator unbolting/tape your window part of the Vortex write up:

See here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/Door-Module-Removal-Jetta-Passat-Golf.htm

Apparently the door lock mechanism can be removed by just prying the carrier panel back. Should I try this, or is space so tight that it's easier to just follow the Vortex procedure? Are the rivnuts everyone talks about just the two plastic things that you can see when the door panel is removed? Just punch them out and forget 'em, right?

2. BURGESS V4NS-UL People (this is what I have ready to go in): What is the correct wiring? There is a big contradiction in this thread. Some people did blue to blue / red to red and said it worked great. Several pictures show the yellow wire cut from the replacement Burgess switch. Others said this is wrong, like this post, and indicate that yellow should be wired to existing blue:

Thanks again, rix. I put a new Burgess (v4ns-ul) switch in today, wiring yellow to existing blue and red to red. This time it's working fabulously. I used very small machine nuts and bolts with a little lock-tite on top to keep the switch in place. I didn't have to pull anything apart. The switch is accessible from the outside of the door-lock module. I hope the nuts don't rattle loose.

Help!! T minus 12 hours to tearing into this thing.

 

[david_594]

I would personally do it vortex style. The process really isn't that hard and with a little practice is fairly quick. I also don't see why you would tape the window up when you can just pull it entirely out of the door once you loosen the 2 clamps for it in the window regulator.

I dont remember any rivnuts of significance in the process but its been well over a year since I've pulled a door apart. Drill out the plastic rivets mention in the vortex how=to and forget about everything else. Once the lock module is out you will see how they held it to the back of the door panel. Their sole purpose was to make assembly easier and will be of no value to you.

From what I remember of the switch issue, I think people were alleging that they were wired wrong. Check the threads and see if the switch is supposed to be normally open or normally closed then check the leads on the switch. Thats really the only way to be sure you have the right ones.

Hope that helps.

Dave

I'm extremely tired so hopefully this makes sense.
I'm doing this job tomorrow.

Two questions:
1. MyTurboDiesel.com has a how-to that precludes the entire window regulator unbolting/tape your window part of the Vortex write up:

See here: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/Door-Module-Removal-Jetta-Passat-Golf.htm

Apparently the door lock mechanism can be removed by just prying the carrier panel back. Should I try this, or is space so tight that it's easier to just follow the Vortex procedure? Are the rivnuts everyone talks about just the two plastic things that you can see when the door panel is removed? Just punch them out and forget 'em, right?

2. BURGESS V4NS-UL People (this is what I have ready to go in): What is the correct wiring? There is a big contradiction in this thread. Some people did blue to blue / red to red and said it worked great. Several pictures show the yellow wire cut from the replacement Burgess switch. Others said this is wrong, like this post, and indicate that yellow should be wired to existing blue:

Help!! T minus 12 hours to tearing into this thing.

 

[eb2143]

I would personally do it vortex style. The process really isn't that hard and with a little practice is fairly quick. I also don't see why you would tape the window up when you can just pull it entirely out of the door once you loosen the 2 clamps for it in the window regulator.

Thanks Dave, I'm going to remove the carrier.

As for the wiring, here's some info. I think I've got this right.
The Burgess switch does not have any labeling on the wires. It does have the following: R--->Y •B

Based on this:

For reference; regarding the door open/closed switch.
The switch is on terminals 7 and 8 of the 8-pin connector.
State Door Closed:
- The switch is not depressed and 8-7 is an open circuit.
State Door Open:
- The switch is depressed and 8-7 has continuity.

What I have found (these were changed as of 7:31 PM when I realized I'm an idiot who doesn't understand that high resistance is the same thing as an open circuit).
When leads are on Yellow and Red:
Switch is not depressed = Continuity
Switch Depressed = 1.3 M Ohms (Basically open circuit we'll say).
​

When leads are on Blue and Red:
Switch not depressed: Open Circuit (.8 M)
Switch depressed: Continuity

So it looks like the correct wiring for my switch is Blue to existing blue. See below for P2B's explanation of why some with the Burgess had to use yellow to existing blue; sounds like there are differences among the switches. Only way to know for sure is to test them.
All of these members used blue to blue / red to red.

And this guy...
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/medium/Door_Switch4.jpg

And this guy....
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/assembly-2.JPG

Burgess change the wiring colors? MK3's post is backwards? These guys actually got it backwards and were too embarrassed to post back?

 

[P2B]

The original switch is normally open, but which wire is connected to the normally open contact on the Burgess V4NS switch depends on which version of the datasheet matches the switch on hand

This one says normally open = yellow:

http://datasheet.octopart.com/V4NS-UL-SAIA-datasheet-33305.pdf

... and this one says normally open = blue:

http://www.saia-burgessusa.com/ltr2/access.php?file=pdf/V4N.pdf

 

[eb2143]

The original switch is normally open, but which wire is connected to the normally open contact on the Burgess V4NS switch depends on which version of the datasheet matches the switch on hand

This one says normally open = yellow:

http://datasheet.octopart.com/V4NS-UL-SAIA-datasheet-33305.pdf

... and this one says normally open = blue:

http://www.saia-burgessusa.com/ltr2/access.php?file=pdf/V4N.pdf

Looks like they changed then! Good to know that explains the confusion. I'm terrible with electronics, but based on what I've found by testing continuity using the yellow wire, it is normally open on the example of V4NS I have, correct ? (found when switch not depressed, no resistance)

 

[david_594]

Looks like they changed then! Good to know that explains the confusion. I'm terrible with electronics, but based on what I've found by testing continuity using the yellow wire, it is normally open on the example of V4NS I have, correct ? (found when switch not depressed, no resistance)

Infinite resistance(no reading).

It sounds like the yellow wire is the one you want.

 

[P2B]

Before I took things apart, I verified with the old switch with a helper that when depressed, the old switch would give continuity across pins 8 and 7. Now...nothing.

Have you verified the latch mechanism is actually operating the new switch? In post 284 it says the new Burgess has the wires on the opposite end, so you have to install it "backwards" to get the pushbutton in the right place.

 

[eb2143]

Thanks P2B and Dave, all the problems were due to me not understanding how to measure for continuity, especially using my multimeter.

Infinite resistance comes up as "0 L" and I didn't know that this meant overload/open loop, I thought it meant zero. When the Burgess switch wasn't spliced into the door lock module circuit, I was getting around 0.4 MΩ and 0.00Ω. Because I'm stupid I thought the .4 MΩ was the closed circuit, where in reality this much resistance is equivilent open circuit (400,000 ohms). Also, like I said closed circuits were coming up as 0.00 Ω, rather than a small resistance that is typical of a circuits. So I was confused. When hooked into the module's circuit, the .4 MΩ jumped to "0.L" and, like I said, I had no clue what this meant, I thought it meant 0.

Live and learn...

The correct wiring ended up being blue-to-blue and red-to-red (although I haven't installed into the door yet, this wiring fits MK3's description @ the # 8 and 7 pins).

The install went pretty smooth using previous posts in this thread. I put together a How-To w/ a Burgess sealed switch from start to finish by combining two vortex How-Tos and several posts within this thread. I plan to convert this to a PDF and posting it up in a week or so.

One point of confusion for me was that there are two latch settings that "lock." The first one is the "my door is closed and shouldn't pop open, but isn't fully closed." If you keep going the lock latch will rotate a little further to the fully locked position. I wasn't rotating the lock latch far enough (wherein the cam abruptly ends and the microswitch's button is released), and thus the lock cam was depressing the button on the only two positions I thought it had. So I stared at that for about an hour, thinking these were the tightest tolerances imaginable.

 

[richh]

Well wife's wagon got "the door don't open blues" so it would apper that this fix is in my stars. If you ever have to replace your meter get one with a beeper in it to check continuity, no mystery then, and if you are upside down in a hole somewhere you can hear it and not have to look at the read out
thanks to all for posting up the fix!!

 

[Keven]

This is very confusing and I feel like there is a lot of contradicting information. Anyone have any step by step links on how to do this? Reading all these pages just made me more confused. How should I go about doing this?

 

[eb2143]

This is very confusing and I feel like there is a lot of contradicting information. Anyone have any step by step links on how to do this? Reading all these pages just made me more confused. How should I go about doing this?

I agree, i spent a couple hours gathering the information and reading through this monster of a thread. I am working on a pdf that combines others how-tos and gives you a start to finish how to on the job.

The first decision you need to make is whether you want to go with the Burgess replacement switch from Allied (I wouldn't get the radioshack one) or to buy an entirely new lock module.

 

[xbiker423]

It's not really that bad. The trick is to make sure the button on the switch gets hit when the latch is in the open position, but not the latched or fully latched position. If the burgess switch is purchased (which is more weather proof than the RS one) it's blue to blue and red to red. Some files and a dremel tool help to get it fit into the mechanism itself, and some 1/2 inch 2-56 machine screws with nuts and washers will secure the switch to the assembly.

The how-to PDF would be rockin'. Thanks.

 

[Keven]

I agree, i spent a couple hours gathering the information and reading through this monster of a thread. I am working on a pdf that combines others how-tos and gives you a start to finish how to on the job.

The first decision you need to make is whether you want to go with the Burgess replacement switch from Allied (I wouldn't get the radioshack one) or to buy an entirely new lock module.

I will be looking forward to that PDF! When is the release date? I have the door panels off my car and I am sick of riding ghetto. Where can I find this burgess switch?

 

[eb2143]

Start to Finish How-To: Release 1.

Please provide feedback on this PDF: necessary? useful? waste of my time? If it's helping people, make recommendations and I'll continue to refine this.

As it says in the document, the switch is available from Allied electronics.

Converted to PDF, uploaded to the club's servers: Click on the switch thumbnail below, log in to the photo server (creating a new tab in your browser will be convenient), again click on this thumbnail in this post, then click on the thumbnail again located over "MKIV Door Switch/Lock Module R&R, 1.0" and a 1.1 MB PDF should download.

 

[bobs98veedub]

It's not really that bad. The trick is to make sure the button on the switch gets hit when the latch is in the open position, but not the latched or fully latched position. If the burgess switch is purchased (which is more weather proof than the RS one) it's blue to blue and red to red. Some files and a dremel tool help to get it fit into the mechanism itself, and some 1/2 inch 2-56 machine screws with nuts and washers will secure the switch to the assembly.

The how-to PDF would be rockin'. Thanks.

I thought I saw in this posting that it is suppose to be yellow to blue and red to red? Is this whole procedure also apply to the Beetle?

Thanks,
Bob

 

[eb2143]

I thought I saw in this posting that it is suppose to be yellow to blue and red to red?

Apparently some Burgess switches were yellow to blue. You'll need to test the switch you get with a multimeter to be sure as there is no info on the wires. See pdf for description of how to check your switch.

I don't know about the Beetle question.

 

[mmmchickenboy]

Today I pulled the door latch out of my '00 Beetle and drowned the switch in contact cleaner and so far it's working perfectly. I had purchased the switch from radioshack but decided against doing the swap. If I have problems with this again I'll just buy a new latch assembly.

 

[jrip]

Take a look at post number 119 on page 8.

 

[NarfBLAST]

Update from post #348 back on July 12th...

fixed the door switch with a little piece of heat shrink tubing to replace the worn out nub (I am sure this will not last long)

Three months later opening and closing my drivers door at least 8 times a day that is over 700 cycles and the new nub is still working perfectly. I wonder how long this can last?

Also very happy that the soldering job and the motor reconditioning job still working great! Nice to have remote locks that work!



http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3043525&postcount=348http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3043525&postcount=348

 

[Pharmboy]

While you're in there you might consider replacing the window cable assembly to one with the metal window holders.

 

[bobs98veedub]

Apparently some Burgess switches were yellow to blue. You'll need to test the switch you get with a multimeter to be sure as there is no info on the wires. See pdf for description of how to check your switch.

I don't know about the Beetle question.

I ended up with the blue/blue and red/red wiring. What a gread thread!! This saved me $735.00 ( $775. dealer quote for both doors less $40.00 for 3 switches, one screwup switch). First door took 3 hours just making sure to not mess anything up and 1 hour 15 min on the 2nd door. Now my daughter can lock her doors and not have those bells driving her nutz. I did find the drivers door latch was replaced once already and the passenger side door regulator was replaced. Found old pieces in the bottom of the door. On both my latches, neither switch had the pins melted. Rather they were held in with clips. Many thanks again for this great posting!!

Bob

ps; I will sell the extra switch for $10. including shipping to continuous 48 states.

 

[jcilforever]

I was looking for a solution to my 04 drivers door switch not locking with fob, but would lock manually, also lights on beep would not sound. So I read the thread and followed the picture of where to squirt solvent, first used battery terminal cleaner then half can of seafoam deep creep got it to work a few times joged the locks by hand then went to sleep. Woke up the next morning and it has worked now for three days. Much better than doing surgery! Thanks to the one who posted spraying

 

[DaveLinger]

I fixed my door switch using this guide last night and this morning. My symptoms were that the car always thought that the driver door was closed. No lights came on when it opened, no buzzer for leaving headlights on, etc.

Took 2 days because...

I was up late (after midnight) when I decided to take it apart and see what's wrong with it (switch/solder joints, etc), and after I had EVERYTHING removed, I realized that I forgot the two triple square bolts, and had to wait until morning to buy the triple square bit.

I also accidentally disassembled my window regulator, which took me 45 minutes to re-assemble.

But eventually I got it apart, removed the old switch, and JB welded a new switch in from my local radio shack. Put everything back together, and it works like new.

 

[crdouger]

random locking problem

Wow...took me two nights to read this whole thread! My problems seems a bit different than most on this thread. All my lights, buzzers, beeps, alarms, puddle lights, etc. work properly at the proper times. My problem is that I get out of my car PUT THE KEY IN MY POCKET and walk away. And my car sometimes randomly locks itself without me pushing my keyfob at all (to my knowlege... I don't think the button is getting pushed in my pocket). It doesn't seem to happen often when I come back to the car after being gone for a while. So I don't think it's the microswitches. Do you guys think it's bad solder joints?

 

[jcilforever]

Wow...took me two nights to read this whole thread! My problems seems a bit different than most on this thread. All my lights, buzzers, beeps, alarms, puddle lights, etc. work properly at the proper times. My problem is that I get out of my car PUT THE KEY IN MY POCKET and walk away. And my car sometimes randomly locks itself without me pushing my keyfob at all (to my knowlege... I don't think the button is getting pushed in my pocket). It doesn't seem to happen often when I come back to the car after being gone for a while. So I don't think it's the microswitches. Do you guys think it's bad solder joints?

Our cars are made to autolock themselves without being attended.

 

[crdouger]

Can't say I want that. Someday my key is going to be inside the car when it locks.