Stop - Oil Pressure - Stop Motor

[Vlad123]

Hi, I'm Vlad. Got a 2005 2.0L tdi [automatic] with a WVO modification. About 170k on this engine. 270k on the dash.

Need some input.

Recently got this poop-in-my-pants dummy light with the flashing oil can. Oil Pressure, Stop Motor
Oil level is sufficient, even slightly high.

when i search the forum for 'oil pump light' i get 25 pages of posts. Read about a half dozen, couldn't find the exact problem with this engine...

I left car for a few days. What I observe is that when I start the engine, everything is normal at idle 60 seconds later. I get the STOP/ Oil Pressure message if i rev the engine or if I try to put her in drive and go. When I go back to idle in neutral or parked, the message stops.

I am going to have her towed to my vw mech, but is there anything I can know based on the oil pressure light coming on at higher rpm's ? Can I conclude that the oil pump is likely on its last legs?

 

[Scubanero]

Not last legs. Dead. The delay is built in to avoid nuisance alarms on start up.

 

[Tom in PT]

Has the balance shaft module in that engine been replaced? Loss of oil pressure will occur when the chain tensioner grenades and the oil pump stops. If you haven't replaced it yet you are long overdue . . .

 

[Vlad123]

sorry for my delay in responding. i thought i would get notifications.

I prob need to have that replaced too. but if the chain broke, wouldn't i get the dummy light at low idle too ?

Has the balance shaft module in that engine been replaced? Loss of oil pressure will occur when the chain tensioner grenades and the oil pump stops. If you haven't replaced it yet you are long overdue . . .

 

[Vlad123]

sorry for my delay in responding. i thought i would get notifications.

Not last legs. Dead. The delay is built in to avoid nuisance alarms on start up.

Seems like a messy job that i don't have the setup for... Otherwise is it relatively straightforward to replace? Any recomendations on part specs or part manufacturer ? Anything else to replace when replacing the oil pump?

 

[Vince Waldon]

Oil pressure is not monitored at idle.

 

[Mongler98]

Start with testing the oil pressure transducer. That's free and should point you in the direction of pooped pants or no pooped pance land.
Past this. If you spend the $ on mechanic they might tell you the engine is fubar.

If you have some tools you could do 2 things and save a lot of money right now.
Drop the oil pan. Pull the valve cover off and when you drain the oil collect it in a clean can / bucket. Thin it with gasoline and pour it though a coffee filter or a few layers of paper towels in a funnel.
The oil filter needs to be opened with a can opener no sawing! Do the same for the oil out of this separately and cut the top and bottom off the filter paper (pleats) roll it out and inspect it after cleaning with more gas. You are looking for anytjing more than pixy dust. Any metal that is larger than say the dot of an i at 12 font is not good.
Pixy dust and a few small flakes is no big deal. Big slivers are a death sentence.
While draining you can do a blackstone labs sample.

Look at the cam and lifter and check the end play of the conrods and see if there is any damage to anything or unusual wear. You can take the oil pump off at this point. Mechanic will cost you $300 plus a $300 tow . Doing this will save you a lot. And seeing as you could change out the pump now its worth doing. Seeing as this job is about a $700 bill. And your not even sure if the engine is worth doing the work to.
Food for thought.
I understand if this is out of the scope of your skills or just not worth your time.

 

[PickleRick]

A bhw on wvo, please fill us in on details of your set up and how long you've had it. I have looked into alternative diesels (my shop gets access to hundreds of gallons of dyno or syn blend used oil a year)

I'd love to run on black or diy bio diesel but the limited research I've done claims vw tdi motors will coke the rings on alternative fuels. Approaching a tear down, an inspection of the rings/pistons might be in your future and would be cool for you to share.

 

[Windex]

Two things:

1:

google "BHW balance shaft"

2:

Ignore anything Mongler said

Oh my Bryan, thank you for my morning laugh. Nearly spit out my coffee...

Yeah, OP, you have a dead BSM drive chain system, hex key, or both.

Stop starting the engine. You have likely killed the turbo, and are on your way to bricking the engine. Replace or delete the BSM, and check the turbo shaft play very closely.

 

[Mongler98]

So you are saying it's a bad idea to diagnose if the cam and crank is bad and looking at the oil for clues to engine health?
Yea my mistake on the ballance shaft.... forgive me... I'm not a tdi God like you.
I guess its follows your bad advice about dealerships as well.
Listen to Oil hammer and just go take it to a shop blindly and spend tons for money on faith that a member here with an ego the size of Texas has your back.

 

[Windex]

Dude - you're out of line.

Bryan knows these cars intimately. Works professionally as a mechanic at a highly respected shop. Owns two of them.

He isn't in any way advocating spending money blindly... Which by the way the OP will be doing if they follow your wild goose chase advise checking multiple items unrelated to the known failure mode (low oil pressure) on this engine.

You are so tiring some days... :-(

OP, your oil pump drive has failed. Turbo is likely baffed. Decide whether you want to fix it or not - Multiple threads on costs and how to do it.

WVO might also have caused some potential issues on with the fuelling system - PD injectors are not very tolerant of WVO...

 

[oilhammer]

"Tiring" is a very good way to put it.

 

[1854sailor]

...that a member here with an ego the size of Texas has your back.

There is no "ego" involved here, I've met him and he's one of the most likable, down to earth persons I have ever encountered. Brian's comments are based on his extensive knowledge of these cars. He's probably forgotten more about TDIs than any of us will ever know...

 

[nicklockard]

All right. Let's just stop attacking. There's no need for that. Readers can form their own opinions. Stick to the specific subject matters.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Don't throw parts at it, including a pressure sensor.
Don't be starting it either. As Brian said, there's a very common problem with these of the balance shaft failing. The oil pressure light doesn't come on at idle, just above idle.
A pressure gauge will tell you if you have oil pressure or not.

 

[ajjw0828]

I think the pressure gauge is a good idea. I had my chain break while driving and drove it for probably a 1/4 mile before turning off and bearings were fine. I did have to replace my turbo. Good write up on here about doing the delete that was very helpful. I bought most of my parts from Kermatdi. Good luck, hope it's just a pressure sensor.

 

[TPW]

If you start hearing rod knock, don't worry it won't knock for long. (That's because there will be a large hole in the block right before the engine locks up).

 

[oilhammer]

No need to mess with pressure checking. When they break, they break, the oil pump 100% stops turning. All you need to do is open the oil filter cap and look inside. Start the engine briefly ... if it remains empty, the oil pump isn't turning.