Sticking vanes

[2002_auto_tdi]

Bit of discussion here

Awesome!

 

[Nero Morg]

It is doable out the top, but I found it easier to disconnect the dogbone mount to rotate the engine for a little more clearance.
Still involves removing the intake of course.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

It is intake piping and 13 nuts and you are there. I always take mine out on the top.

 

[03TDICommuter]

I did mine from the top on the Jetta. Will be trying from the top again on the Beetle probably in a couple of weeks when I do the head gasket too.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

I will probably use the darkish youtube video as a guide. Any other pointers? I plan to at least get started with this over the weekend.

I should be thankful that anyone did a video for this method at all but just checking here first.

 

[jmodge]

You will need a pair of wrenches to grab both the nut on the line and the fitting on the turbo to keep from damaging the oil line. I cut open a 12 point box wrench to slide over the line, nut, and onto the fitting

 

[Nevada_TDI]

You will need a pair of wrenches to grab both the nut on the line and the fitting on the turbo to keep from damaging the oil line. I cut open a 12 point box wrench to slide over the line, nut, and onto the fitting

If you can wait a few days, I would order a stainless braided line.
They are not terribly expensive depending on where you purchase one from.

 

[03TDICommuter]

If you can wait a few days, I would order a stainless braided line.
They are not terribly expensive depending on where you purchase one from.

I bought a Kerma braided line years ago from the classified section here for my 03’ Jetta but did not use it as the oil passage looked small in diameter compared to the oem hardline. I don’t know how much flow is needed for turbo bearings but I didn’t want to take the chance.

 

[jmodge]

If you can wait a few days, I would order a stainless braided line.
They are not terribly expensive depending on where you purchase one from.

No thank you

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

Silly perhaps, but since the work is being done from the top and bottom at the same time, how high do you lift the vehicle? In the video I posted he has it up on rhino ramps. I tried the same and the vehicle is too low to work on comfortably if I use my creeper and harder to view things due to over 40 eyeball issues. Jacks and jackstands allow me some room but I am getting tired of leaning on engines and at times needing to sit on them to work. I notice this more on my SUV.

What is a good height compromise to do this? This vehicle is just too low stock for me at times. My r53 Mini Cooper S had more ground clearance.

Thanks.

 

[Nevada_TDI]

I have been using the "generic"SS braided line for years without difficulty When I purchased it on Ebay it was right around $20.00, I will admit this was about 5 years ago. The hybrid turbo I am an running has no issues. Many TDIers have been using the same part for years.Just my $0.02

 

[Tdijarhead]

I have a braided line on all three of our tdi’s I bought mine from cascadegerman.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

Why do some of you guys suggest steel braided line? I can see how it might be beneficial as I have purposefully bent the old one just to be able to reach certain bolts on the IM and EGR cooler any other reasons? So sources so far are Cascade German and Fleabay somewhere. Hmmm.

Since no one mentioned an alright approach to do work from the top and bottom so far I will chime in with my experience. Removing the IM and EGR Cooler/EGR was pretty easy without lifting. At some point I will probably want to lift it up to get at the bottom EM bolts and the 3 at the downpipe but I am not sure.

 

[Nero Morg]

The steel line is prone to breaking when taking it off. In the chance it doesn't, getting the threads on the turbo side to align can be a pain, tight area and hard line. I've done it both ways, the steel braided line is my go to every time now.
I personally prefer removing turbos out the top. Sounds like you're on the right path.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

The steel line is prone to breaking when taking it off. In the chance it doesn't, getting the threads on the turbo side to align can be a pain, tight area and hard line. I've done it both ways, the steel braided line is my go to every time now.
I personally prefer removing turbos out the top. Sounds like you're on the right path.

Well the kit came with a hard line already but based on the amount of bending I have had to do (feed line is already leaking from bending) this seems like a no brainer.

 

[Nero Morg]

If the kit came with a replacement steel line, I'd just use that. I go with the braided if I don't have a steel one handy.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

If the kit came with a replacement steel line, I'd just use that. I go with the braided if I don't have a steel one handy.

Lol, thanks. I did the opposite...I went with braided as I can wait for it to arrive and take my time on the turbo install.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

Does anyone know/remember if the oil feed line bracket on the turbo is still required when using a braided steel supply line?

With all of the rusted studs and nuts, even one missed item can save me an hour or more.

Thanks for any info.

 

[Nero Morg]

It's not. I would secure the line with a zip tie to something, so it doesn't rub or get caught in anything though. I zip tied mine down on the firewall side of the trans, and on the front side, to keep it from moving.

 

[2002_auto_tdi]

It's not. I would secure the line with a zip tie to something, so it doesn't rub or get caught in anything though. I zip tied mine down on the firewall side of the trans, and on the front side, to keep it from moving.

Thanks. I figured such but wasn't sure.

 

[wonneber]

Anybody ever hear of drizzling water down the intake with the car at roughly 3k rpm to clean the vanes? Or ever try it yourself? I've heard of it cleaning them well.

I've done it to clean carbon off the top of pistons in -gas- engines way back.
It helped with pinging caused by the slightly higher compression from the carbon.

The diesel has much less of a 'chamber' and if you pour to much in it may crack a piston.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

I've done it to clean carbon off the top of pistons in -gas- engines way back.
It helped with pinging caused by the slightly higher compression from the carbon.

The diesel has much less of a 'chamber' and if you pour to much in it may crack a piston.

Thats a lot of carbon build up for a gasser. I haven't done it to gas engines, but i know you can do that. You can also make a slow feed system so it just slowly feeds water over the course of like a 1/2hr or something.

 

[jmodge]

Forgotten history for youngsters, but Steam cleaning carboned gas engines was common knowledge back in the day. It’s not something that’s been needed for quite a while since they’ve designed them to burn efficiently.