Steering out of alignment after CV axle

[Wandersk]

Hey guys. So I ordered a new drivers side cv axle, pulled the old one out only to find that they gave me the wrong cv axle (alh instead of bew). I have an appointment for a new windshield tomorrow so I put the old cv axle back on to get me there. When I took it for a drive after putting the cv axle back on, the steering wheel is now noticeably turned to the right while driving straight. Doesn't seem to be pulling at all, just off to the right. The only things I touched were the 30mm nut on the hub, the 3 bolts on the control arm, and the actual bolts on the cv/trans flange. Can't figure out how any of this would effect alignment. Only thing I can think of is maybe bent something when pulling the wheel hub assembly out of the control arm to drop the cv axle out, then again to get it back in. Don't want to miss my windshield appointment tomorrow so I'm hoping it's okay to drive as is, I can try to figure out the alignment problem when I replace the cv axle with the proper one tomorrow night.

 

[snakeye]

Hey guys. So I ordered a new drivers side cv axle, pulled the old one out only to find that they gave me the wrong cv axle (alh instead of bew). I have an appointment for a new windshield tomorrow so I put the old cv axle back on to get me there. When I took it for a drive after putting the cv axle back on, the steering wheel is now noticeably turned to the right while driving straight. Doesn't seem to be pulling at all, just off to the right. The only things I touched were the 30mm nut on the hub, the 3 bolts on the control arm, and the actual bolts on the cv/trans flange. Can't figure out how any of this would effect alignment. Only thing I can think of is maybe bent something when pulling the wheel hub assembly out of the control arm to drop the cv axle out, then again to get it back in. Don't want to miss my windshield appointment tomorrow so I'm hoping it's okay to drive as is, I can try to figure out the alignment problem when I replace the cv axle with the proper one tomorrow night.

Your alignment is off, but your car should be fine to drive the way it is, at least for a short period of time. If you loosen the 3 bolts that connect the ball joint to the control arm, you'll notice there's a good amount of play in the wheel, which'll affect the toe, and the camber to some degree. Since your steering wheel is to the right, try loosening them and pushing your wheel all the way in. You can play around with the wheel's angle until your steering wheel is straight, but you should get your car aligned eventually after installing that axle.

Usually before getting an alignent I'll loosen both ball joints and push the wheels all the way in. Like that if ever I need to remove them to do some work on my car, I'll know the exact position they were in.

Btw aren't bew and alh axles the same? I thought the difference was between automatic and manual transmission.

 

[Tdijarhead]

Btw aren't bew and alh axles the same? I thought the difference was between automatic and manual transmission.

Exactly, the manual transmission axles are the same, there are differences between the manual and automatic inner cv joint and even between the inner joints of the different automatic transmissions offered during those years. The outer joints are all the same however.


And yes, your 3 ball joint bolts on the bottom of the control arm are the issue with your steering wheel position.

 

[KrashDH]

Not sure what bj's/control arms you guys are using, but there's hardly any play in my ball joint thru holes. They are typical thru holes, about 1mm diametric clearance. No way could that little of play throw the steering wheel off in my case. I keep reading how some people have so much play at this joint but have yet to be pointed to a specific ball joint that allows that much adjustment?

 

[Wandersk]

Thanks for the replies. Like Krash said, there isn't any amount of play in the thru holes on my control arm. I'll check it out after work but I can't see how I can adjust anything there.

 

[Randomhomelesstdibeetlegu]

Ball joint slotting OR wheel bearing said no more.

 

[BobnOH]

I think the car alignment and the steering wheel alignment are 2 very different things. Never had to mess with it, but I thought the steering wheel align to straight was a simple thing. Am I out to lunch?

 

[KrashDH]

I think the car alignment and the steering wheel alignment are 2 very different things. Never had to mess with it, but I thought the steering wheel align to straight was a simple thing. Am I out to lunch?

Depends what you're talking about. Toe is adjusted by the individual TREs on each side. These are independently adjusted until the toe setting is correct. Your steering wheel will be off at that point. To re center the steering wheel, you have to adjust each TRE side EQUALLY in the direction that puts the steering wheel back to center so as not to disturb the toe, which requires marking the TRE and noting how much on each side it's turned. This will keep the toe correct to your adjustment.

 

[snakeye]

Not sure what bj's/control arms you guys are using, but there's hardly any play in my ball joint thru holes. They are typical thru holes, about 1mm diametric clearance. No way could that little of play throw the steering wheel off in my case. I keep reading how some people have so much play at this joint but have yet to be pointed to a specific ball joint that allows that much adjustment?

The ball joints are all the same no matter the brand. The play is in the control arm holes. If you loosen the bolts and move the wheel around you'll see just how much play you can get in it.

 

[BobnOH]

So you don't think I can wiggle it out with a 15mm wrench? Do you know if you can rent those injector pullers anywhere?

Sorry for my ignorance, What is TRE?

 

[snakeye]

TRE = tie rod end

 

[gforce1108]

BEW and ALH use the same axle on manual transmission cars. Autos are different. Those three bolts knock camber out on one side. I never touch those! You can change the axle by removing the ball joint from the spindle - not the control arm. No alignment needed.

 

[KrashDH]

The ball joints are all the same no matter the brand. The play is in the control arm holes. If you loosen the bolts and move the wheel around you'll see just how much play you can get in it.

I've done many repairs on this vehicle with these control arms where I've had to loosen the ball joints. In my case, it does not matter. I've painted them, measured them, done all sorts of stuff to tinker with getting adjustment out of them, there's no way. Not enough to matter anyways. Other setups, maybe.

I've asked a few different alignment places if they touch those for "camber" adjustment and they said they do not. If there's a set of control arms that can give you meaningful camber adjustment, I'd be interested. So far I've come up empty.

 

[snakeye]

I've done many repairs on this vehicle with these control arms where I've had to loosen the ball joints. In my case, it does not matter. I've painted them, measured them, done all sorts of stuff to tinker with getting adjustment out of them, there's no way. Not enough to matter anyways. Other setups, maybe.

In the oem control arm there's some play. You may have after market control arms. And also what do you mean by not enough to matter? Any play matters and will have an effect on the alignment.

 

[KrashDH]

I've had both. Both sets were typical thru hole clearance, which is .030" diametric clearance. That's under 1mm of play.

 

[braddies]

camber adjustment.... If there's a set of control arms that can give you meaningful camber adjustment, I'd be interested. So far I've come up empty.

You might be interested in swapping in control arms from a first gen Audi TT with the TT ball joints, you can get quite a bit more camber adjustment. But to really get the most out of those TT control arms you want to swap in the knuckles also.
Usually the easiest way is just drop the TT subframe with control arms, knuckles, struts, brakes and all sway bar linkages attached, then swap the whole assembly onto the MK4. Careful with swapping the control arms, there's a captive nut Inside the subframe that likes to spin

 

[KrashDH]

You might be interested in swapping in control arms from a first gen Audi TT with the TT ball joints, you can get quite a bit more camber adjustment. But to really get the most out of those TT control arms you want to swap in the knuckles also.
Usually the easiest way is just drop the TT subframe with control arms, knuckles, struts, brakes and all sway bar linkages attached, then swap the whole assembly onto the MK4. Careful with swapping the control arms, there's a captive nut Inside the subframe that likes to spin

I've got my current control arms loaded with TT bushings, it's a nice combo (not TT arms though, just regular Mk4). I think before I'd swap TT stuff onto my Golf, I'd just buy a Mk1 TT. I've wanted one for a while Won't purchase until I have a shop at my disposal though, lack the room currently, plus when I move it would be too much to get where I'm going!

 

[braddies]

When I got the car it needed struts needed wheel bearings all the rubber bushings were cracking, so it made sense to pull the subframe with everything attached from a junkyard TT and refresh all the maintenance items, put the smaller (lighter) 1.8t calipers on and swapped out the old subframe.
Back to the original post, fractions-of-an- inch make big changes in alignment, bolts on the ball joint can move around forward and back and also "twist" in the control arm, not a whole lot, but enough to change steering angles, prossibly enough to scallop the tires if driven long enough. Probably fine for the short term

 

[braddies]

Mmm BRM mk1ttquatro...