Stanadyne 2 micron filter results

[Dweebus]

I noticed the same thing about the part number when I was lokoing around. Sunrg could say for sure, but it does look like the 4 and 6 got reversed.
I think I was quoted around $58 from my local dealer. Said no thank you to that.

 

[SUNRG]

oops! it is 33642

the price was wrong too.

it's not $33.20, it's $33.23 and they have seven in stock. it took me 6.2 seconds to call reliable and get this info, and i'm happy to help, but you guys could have called

i priced it locally too, around $60, then i ordered from reliable.

 

[milehighassassin]

I just spoke to themn. They said "someone" just called about that. Wonder who that was? I ordered the filter head unit, the heater and an extra 6" element and it was $86.64. IF you want to do this cheap you can just do the $33.23 head, unit, get some hose and fittings and call it good. I think I am going to get stainless fitting right away. I was going to pick up something local probably brass but why bother? Might as well do it right the first time.

 

[Dweebus]

I ordered the filter head unit, the heater and an extra 6" element and it was $86.64.

But the Cat filter is the best! Nuf said!

I haven't ordered one yet because I still have to figure out mounting. The A4 VE engine bay and the A3 engine bay don't seem to have the same space available in the front that the PD does. On the A4 VE it looks like it may be possible to drop the Stanadyne in the existing fuel filter clamp. Defintly not on the A3. Otherwise mounting will probably need to be done on the other side of the engine bay. Maybe if it would STOP RAINING I could spend some time outside looking at it.
Maybe someone can post how tall the head is?

 

[milehighassassin]

I can't seem to find it now but somewhere on the stanadyne site there is a PDF with EXACT measurements, almost blue-print like.

 

[Long_Range]

Here is a chart from Reliable Industries site.
FM 100 dimensions

 

[LanduytG]

Thats a he!! of a price on the FM100. Realiable must be a big distributor. Thats way less than I can but it for from my supplier. But on thing the elements you have are not 2 micron they are 5 micron.

Greg

 

[LanduytG]

Sunrg
If you were to get the FM100 with the 14mm meteric thread you could use 5/16 hose with no trouble.

Also you could put a fitting in the extra outlet port and use a Mity Vac to pull fuel through before starting.

Also the vacuum guage you have is that a Stanadyne part and if so whats the part number? I can see where that would be hander to use than what I have.

Greg

 

[Dweebus]

Thanks Long Range! That's perfect. I missed it when perusing their site.

 

[Long_Range]

The question I have on the FM 100 is. Wouldn't the electric heater need to run constant all winter to keep the fuel warmed?

I always liked the theory behind the OEM thermostatic tee and would be reluctant to give it up for electric heat.

 

[LanduytG]

I am sure it is like all others and has a t-stat to control the heater.


Greg

 

[Long_Range]

Yes but with all the fuel now coming from the cold fuel tank won't the thermostat be tripped running the heater constant in cold weather.

Perhaps the 100 watt load isn't a big deal. Sometimes I can be a real tight wad.

 

[LanduytG]

As fuel is recirculated it will warm the tank and the heater will only come on when its real cold. Of course when the motor is first started it will be on. A 100 watt heater will only draw about 7-8 amps so not a big deal.

Greg

 

[SUNRG]

If you were to get the FM100 with the 14mm meteric thread you could use 5/16 hose with no trouble.

that's good to know. i just went with the 3/8 because i knew the local auto parts and hardware stores carry that, maybe they also carry 14mm. i'm OK with the current setup <u>except</u> i'm a little concerned about the fact that my hardware is brass (brass + biod = supposedly not good). i'll probably swap the brass out for stainless 3/8 npt > 3/8 hose barb and just force the 5/16 hose over the 3/8 barb. unless you have a better suggestion, i'm confident that you're much more knowledgeable about the available fitting options than i am.

Also you could put a fitting in the extra outlet port and use a Mity Vac to pull fuel through before starting.

this sounds cool. i think with the PD i should be able to prime the pump by powering the lift pump, but i haven't figured out how to do this yet. i though i could just pull fuse #28 and provide 12v power to the pump side, but that didn't work. i don't know if #28 is the wrong fuse or if the key needs to be in a certain position to allow power to reach the lift pump...

Also the vacuum guage you have is that a Stanadyne part and if so whats the part number? I can see where that would be hander to use than what I have.

it's not a stanadyne part. in fact the filter restriction guage that stanadyne does make for the FM100 is OEM only. i got the guage here: http://designatedengineer.com

Long_Range - the alternators in our cars are outstanding. i have a 960watt 4-channel amp and a 1600watt sub amp and it easily powers both. when i did my best MPT (miles per tank) of 1012.0 miles on one tank i was listening to the stereo non-stop. so a thermostatically controlled 100watt max-draw heater element will literally go unnoticed by the car. 100watts is only 0.13 horsepower.

 

[LanduytG]

Most vehicles that I have seen with lift pumps will only run when the motor is running. But with some you can put the car in any gear and turn the key to the start position the pump will run. But if its a stick you will need to make sure and not step on the clutch so the motor does not turn over. If that does not work you can always use a push button to supply 12V to the pump.

Greg

 

[SUNRG]

Greg - thanks for the info.

If that does not work you can always use a push button to supply 12V to the pump.

how is this done?

 

[DPM]

Just cycle the ignition a number of times. the pump will run for a couple of secs each time you turn on...

 

[whitedog]

Just cycle the ignition a number of times. the pump will run for a couple of secs each time you turn on...

Is that timed or does the confuser read pressure and shuts off the pump?

 

[LanduytG]

I can't beleive the lift pump does not run when the motor runs. Just try what I suggested and I would be willing to bet it will work.

Greg

 

[Dweebus]

This was stated in this tread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...=true#Post21808

I just got back from my local Bosch injection shop that just happens to sell both Racor and Stanadyne. He confirmed my statements about the Racor filters. They do not allow water through. I asked him if the Stanadyne fm100 filters acted the same and he said that only the 30 micron water separator cartridges stopped water. The 5 and 2 micron cartridges are not very good water separators [Eek!] . They are primarily fuel filters. So much for my idea of installing a Stanadyne fm100.

Makes some sence, but I don't know if it's accurate. I think Greg was saying something similar before?

 

[SuburbanTDI]

.

 

[PDiesoiler]

you could go with a bushing, say 3/8 > 1/4, then 1/4 > 5/16 hose barb - <u>or</u> - i bet 5/16 hose can be forced on a 3/8 hose barb. it's only a 1/16 difference!

Would there be any reason not to use HDPE fitting? Might be easier to find in 3/8 NPT 5/16 barbed.
That would be "fuel proof" (<==) wouldn't it?

 

[pruzink]

You would be surpised how quick the fuel gets hot

For anyone with the PD engine, you would be surprised how quickly the fuel starts getting hot after you start the car. When I changed my Cat 2 micron filter, I ran the supply to my injectors to suck from a can of diesel purge with the return from the injectors going back to this same can. The VW training PDF file that had been posted on this site previously (I'm pretty sure that it got pulled, I assume it was because this site didn't have the rights to post it) showed in detail that a fair amount of fuel on the PD injectors gets heated at the injector but not used. I was pretty surprised when I did the "Lubro Molly diesel purge" procedure at just how quickly the fuel oil being returned to the filter gets hot. My point is that after the engine has been running for 5 minutes say (at least on the PD's), I don't see much point in heating the fuel filter. I think that the thermostaic valve is full open recircing back to the tank at 85 degF, and the the fuel cooler in the return line to the fuel tank is set up to cool the fuel to 150 deg F.

 

[PDiesoiler]

You would be surpised how quick the fuel gets hot

Yes, the fuel flows through a raceway bored into the head where the UI's draw their supply. It then continues on back to the fuel tank via the thermal T-valve which allows the now heated fuel to warm the filter volume. In the case of the Stanadyne filter if the t-valve is removed then the warm fuel has to travel back to the tank via a fuel cooler, warm the volume in the tank before it travels back to the filter as warm fuel. This could take a while if ever really when it's brrrr....cold outside and a full tank.
On this set-up I would recommend the filter heater. Your going to have near instant warm filter fuel on a 5 micron membrane. Less chance of clogging, cavitation and wear on the tandem pump.
I like this set-up. Thanks to SunRg for all his good work on this and his professional install.
(edit... Woops sorry HermTDI, credit first to the originator.)

 

[burpod]

SUNRG -- any updates on how this setup is working? are you still using the 6" filter?

i do have a question about the thermal diverter valve on the OEM filter setup. from what i understood, this valve diverts hot fuel back to the tank, that is, fuel that has become too hot because of the heat generated by the injection pump. this cooler fuel (but still warm) i thought was supposed to provide better lubrication to the pump.

does the FM-100 have such a diverter valve? it seems not. so is removing the OE thermal diverter valve and simply plugging in the FM-100 going to cause problems by not stabilizing the fuel temps? ie, sending fuel that has become too hot back to the tank. or does this happen naturally?

when talking to HermTDI, he said he kept the OE diverter valve, but took out the filter media from the filter, so it's just an empty can. the return line goes back to the empty OE can.

as for priming the filter when changing, what about the hand pump primer option? will this work? is it necessary?http://reliableindustries.com/catalog/viewpart.php?qiid=STN_29578

i am thinking of getting this setup with the hand primer pump, the side load heater, and either the clear bowl or water sensor kit, if it isn't too pricey.

my main concern is lack of thermal diverter valve. i don't really want to keep the empty OE can and extra lines just to keep the diverter valve...

 

[burpod]

bump - my reply wasn't showing up in new posts....
???

 

[bhtooefr]

Test bump for burpod.

 

[SUNRG]

burpod - yes, definitely go with the 6" element as it reduces restriction over the 4.6". my setup is working perfectly. i have installed the electric fuel heater but i have not wired it yet. the diverter valve, and probably even the fuel heater are not necessary, provided your fuel is well treated/winterized. i use 8oz of Stanadyne Performance Formula additive every tank, B33 BioD fuel, and it works perfectly.

if fuel flow was being impeded at all, i would know because i have a drag pointer restriction guage installed. i've had morning temps in the teens already and fuel flow / restriction is literally unchanged. the electric fuel heater is inexpensive added insurance, and i highly recommend it, but literally if you use SPF additive and a reasonable BioD blend or D2 you should never have fuel flow issues.

so is removing the OE thermal diverter valve and simply plugging in the FM-100 going to cause problems by not stabilizing the fuel temps? ie, sending fuel that has become too hot back to the tank. or does this happen naturally?

without the diverter, fuel goes from the engine back to the fuel cooler and then to the tank. with the diverter in place this is exactly how fuel flows - probably 97% of the time.

i am thinking of getting this setup with the hand primer pump, the side load heater, and either the clear bowl or water sensor kit, if it isn't too pricey.

do not get the hand primer pump option - as this will very significantly increase restriction. the hand primer pump option changes the fuel flow path, routing the fuel through the pump's valves which adds significant restriction. one TDI club member tried it and the result was periodic fuel starvation.

the reason i set my system up as i did is because i didn't think Herm's configuration (where he kept the OEM fuel filter but removed it's innards) was necessary. my first hand experience and continuous fuel restriction monitoring seem to confirm that the "simple" setup i'm using is functioning very well:

i also now have the clear bowl H20 seperator waiting to be installed (thanks to whitedog) and i'm going to be trying some of this transparent polyurethane BioD fuel hose:

and a Mahle In-Line Mercedes Benz Pre-Filter. they're made in germany, allow you to view your fuel before it reaches the primary filter, should remove all big contaminants thereby extending the primary filter's life, and best of all - they only cost ~$2.50. i will have all this installed and a report and pics posted by next Friday. i want to stress that i do not yet know if this in-line filter can be used as a prefilter for TDI's without significantly increasing fuel restriction. i do not recommend buying it until i've restriction tested it and posted the results. if it does work well (very little or no increase in restriction) then Russell at dieselgiant.com will sell us 10 packs of these filters for $24.50.

cheers!

 

[burpod]

cool! let me know how that pre-filter goes. what about the 150 micron pre-filter that is available as an option on the FM-100?

good to know the hand primping pump is a bad idea as it restricts flow.

i've got RC2 and will possibly be upgrading to RC3 - the FM-100 should be able to handle the required flow, no?

have we decided on a way on priming this filter?

any pics of the clear bowl?

i also use about 6oz SPF (from the half-gallon jugs, which is supposedly more concentrated than the one-shot bottles).

still just a little concerned about losing the diverter valve... i guess there is no way to plug it into the FM-100 setup without keeping the OE canister?

 

[SUNRG]

what about the 150 micron pre-filter that is available as an option on the FM-100?

i have one but did not install it. the surface area is too small IMO. plus i prefer to be able to view the pre-filter if possible.

i've got RC2 and will possibly be upgrading to RC3 - the FM-100 should be able to handle the required flow, no?

no problem. RC3 will not actually increase the tandem pumps volume, just very slightly less fuel will be returned to the tank and very slightly more fuel will be injected to power your TDI.

have we decided on a way on priming this filter?

i think the following is the method i'll use, i'll test it this week: remove the fuel line from the fitting labelled clean, put open end of the line in a jar or bottle, cycle key in ignition until fuel comes out steadily when cycled. the bleed valve on the filter is not in a great position to catch fuel, otherwise i'd just open that valve and then cycle the key.

any pics of the clear bowl?

i'll post them this week. it's both an excellent design and excellent quality.

still just a little concerned about losing the diverter valve... i guess there is no way to plug it into the FM-100 setup without keeping the OE canister?

where there's a will there's a way. you could just use Herm's technique / setup. the FM100 head does have two inputs, so something could be arranged - but in my case i have the restriction gauge installed in the second input location.