whitedog: Probably the way to bleed it would be to open the plastic bleed screwon the side opposite the mount, turn key to run, close screw when clear fuel comes out. Or, since it's a PD, you may just be able to turn the key on for a minute and let the tank pump run.
the PD lift pump does not stay on when the key is turned forward, but you can pull fuse 28, connect 12v power and continuously run it that way. of course the slickest way would be to get the "hand priming pump" option... [
EDIT: THIS OPTION SIGNIFICANTLY INCREASES RESTRICTION AND SHOULD NOT BE USED IN TDI APPLICATIONS]
Dweebus: Why did you choose to mount it in the front of the engine bay instead of the original filter area?
i don't think the filter would fit in the OEM filter area. i know for certain that you would not be able to change the filter element with it mounted in the OEM location. plus the fuel line routing is much more simple and direct where i've mounted it - and it's much warmer where i've mounted it, which should make cold weather performance even better.
Dweebus: I think brass is not compatible with biodiesel (not sure if you run it but others that read this like myself may). Those people may need to find different fittings.
this is news to me. i run biodiesel nearly exclusively. what type of problems should i expect with the brass?
PDiesloiler: Great write-up SUNRG....thanks. How about the thermal diverter valve tee heater for those that want to keep fuel heating oem-like?
yeah, that diverter is a cool option. i seriously think that if Stanadyne Performance Formula additive (or comparable) is used every tank in the winter, even the fuel heater is not needed. but, more insurance is more better - i'll look into it and post what i learn.
but, it is <u>amazing</u> how many cool options and add-ons are easily possible with the FM100! it'd be cool to add: <ul type="square">
[*]electronic water in fuel sensor
[*]hand priming pump
[*]see through water collection bowl
[*]and the one i have done, the electric fuel heater
[/list]every single one of these could be easily added to a TDI installation.
i drove on a 250mile road trip today, and the FM100 restriction level with the 5-micron element is higher than OEM. it appears that, like the CAT 2-micron setup, the FM100 with the 4.3 inch filter element produces about 40-50% more restriction than OEM. i've ordered the 6.0" 5-micron filter media and that may lower the restriction level slightly. since roughly 450 persons have the CAT system installed in their TDIs, and none have reported problem, my feeling is that this level of restriction increase not a problem. i'll post new restriction numbers when i have the 6.0" element installed (probably next Tuesday). what i have so far is:<ul type="square">
[*] OEM at full load = ~10"Hg
[*] 4.3" 5-micron FM100 at full load = ~14"Hg
[/list]Stanadyne does make 10-micron elements for the FM100, which anyone uncomfortable with the restriction increase could go with, but the 6.0" 5-micron is a large element that is used in much bigger engines than our relatively puny TDIs. it's rated at 80gph (roughly 4x the TDIs estimated 18gph flow rate, and 60psi which is probably 6x the pressure in our systems (on the suction side of the tandem pump). i repeatedly WOT accelorated to redline during many shifts today and there was no hint of fuel starvation. "normal" fuel demand is a small fraction of the fuel demand at redline and WOT. bottom line is that in theory, the FM100 is way more than adequate for our little engines.
the other thing to consider is that my restriction numbers only compare maximum restriction under the highest demand scenario i can create. comparing restriction while cruising at 75mph on the highway may yield little or no difference at all.
i'm very happy with the setup, and once i install the 6.0" element i'm not even going to think about fuel filters for a year or so
i may restriction test a 10-micron element if i can easily get a hold of one, but Reliable does not stock them.
the combination of the Stanadyne additive (SPF) and filter (FM100), and that they're engineered to compliment each other, makes me confident that the fuel reaching my engine is of outstanding quality.
it's important to note that the goal of both is to remove water from the fuel, <u>not</u> chemically treat it and send it through the system. the filter removes 95% of <u>emulsified</u> water and 98% of free water. an additive like SPF will improve the filter's ability to remove water even further, but i wouldn't recommend using additives like Howe's, Primrose, or FPPF with the FM100 filter, since they all chemically treat water with the intent of sending it past/through the filter and safely through the fuel system. i don't think there would be any harm in using them, but if your going to do the FM100 upgrade you may as well use additives that will help it do what it's designed to.