Stanadyne 2 micron filter results

[Herm TDI]

Ok folks...Here is some info on the Stanadyne FM-100 W/2 micron filter.
I just did an autopsy an a filter that I had run for 15K miles....Sweet...I could have easily run another 10K miles without any problem. I decided to swap out this filter just so I could see for myself what was happening inside of the filter.
I'm running just the 2 micron Stanadyne filter. The OEM filter is simply a water can (I've removed the guts from the OEM filter) which I've retained the diverter valve so the injection pump can function without any likelyhood of cavitation problems.
I was very impressed with just how clean this filter was after 15K miles. Those of you that are considering to go with a better filter... No matter which brand or style you go with....its much better protection for your pump & injectors....BTW..I love that fuel heater in the Stanadyne FM-100...Sweeeet.
Remember....to keep your pump & injectors happy. /images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Feed them... clean, warm fuel.

 

[weedeater]

have you done a fuel quality test pre- and/or post- filter?

 

[Herm TDI]

Howdy Weedeater,
No...I havn't done any quality tests...just the usual visual inspections of the filter media. I've done several A-3 & A-4 fuel filters at verious mileage intervals...and it comes doem to this....Find a good, clean fuel supply..and stick with that vendor. I've been buying my diesel fuel from the same sourse for the past 10 yrs..and I've been very lucky compaired to some of the filters that I've seen from other parts of New England.

 

[g_c_oster]

Herm,

I used to work in a test lab for Ag tractors, and one of the prescribed validation tests we used to run was a "Fuel Tank Test" where we put in ~1/4 of a tank of diesel, and ran it until it was nearly empty, at full throttle, full load, at 110 °F. What we typically saw, in almost all cases, was that you could lose as much as 10% of your power due to density changes of the fuel, and because the hot fuel was thinner and squezzed past the plungers causing slightly less fuel to be injected. Of course, some machines were more susceptible to this than others (Perkins vs. Cummins). The remedy was to install a fuel cooler, that the return fuel would flow through before returning to the tank. So, to get to my point, why would cooler fuel make for a happier injection system? /images/graemlins/confused.gif From my experience, the cooler the fuel and intake air (to a point of course), the better. /images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Herm TDI]

because.....warm fuel lubericates the pump better than cold fuel...also...the internal electronic fuel temp sensor is one of the input sensors that is used to determine duration and volume of injected fuel quanity

 

[Karmann-diesel]

Herm, I've been considering one of these Stanadyne filter heads also. I have a few questions for you... Did you go with the 100w or 150w heater unit? Do you have the heater attached to a switch so you can turn it on & off, or is it just thermostatically controlled? Was is difficult to find power to run the heater unit?

Thanks in advance,

 

[Herm TDI]

Howdy Karmann-diesel
From my understanding based upon the info given to me by a local Satnadyne distributor (Connell Diesel of Portland Maine) the heaters are based upon your system voltage...24VDC you use the 150 Watt....12VDC you use the 100 watt.
For electrical power.. I installed a vacuum switch. A vacuum switch turns the power on only when the engine is running. I simply attached directly to the battery Pos & Neg...with a 10 amp inline fuse to protect the circut. Using a vacuum switch in this fashion gives you the power you need without having to tap into any of the car's sensitive circuitry. Also.....with a vacuum switch this cuts off the power when-ever the engine is not runnig...saving a drain on the battery.

PS if you want some photos of my installation...drop me an e-mail

 

[shmcquilkin]

Hi Herm,

Thanks for the pix! I'll be doing the same before Fall hits.

Would you mind posting the switch model #, and if it had any presets? It's an Air-Logic isn't it?

Thanks again. Talk with you soon.
/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[shmcquilkin]

Hi Karmann-diesel,

If you're interested there is a GREAT diesel performance shop in Bangor which is a Stanadyne dealer, stocking the FM100 and heater elements. Most of the folks there have VW TDIs even though they were initially a diesel truck service. They are an awesome bunch, very professional and clean and are a wealth of info (they have the Van Aaken box, do injectors, chips, anything you're interested in). Corey, Reggie and Peter are my contacts there:
http://www.stanadyne.com/dsg/dsg_dealer_details.asp?dealerID=129

There's one in Portland, too, as I think you're down there (from your email address) but I don't know them:
http://www.stanadyne.com/dsg/dsg_dealer_details.asp?dealerID=81

Also, Stanadyne's site isn't too helpful. You need to reliable industries to see what's available for the FM-100:
http://www.reliableindustries.com/inv/stan/1_fm100.php

Take care! Just ask if you need anything.
/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Here's my FM-100, before installing the heater, and my Eclipse CCV bypass:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...=14&fpart=1

 

[tonyp]

I've been curious about these too. Does anyone know prices for filter, head unit, heater, glass bowl, whatever else might be useful?

 

[Light]

Reliable industries has good pricing on FM100 pieces/parts.

Don't bother wiring a vacuum switch, just hook up the power to the 75x terminal, it's ignition hot, meaning it only comes on when the ignition is on.

 

[shmcquilkin]

Thanks for the tip Light, man, that's a good one!

/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[pepper10]

Hi Herm,
I am interested in the Stanadyne 2 micron filter system. Which part numbers did you get for your kit (head, element, botom bowl?)?
Thanks

 

[danix]

Get me part numbers and I can source them.

 

[SUNRG]

Reliable industries has good pricing on FM100 pieces/parts.

Don't bother wiring a vacuum switch, just hook up the power to the 75x terminal, it's ignition hot, meaning it only comes on when the ignition is on.

I have a FM100 on order and would like to wire the filter heater to the "75x terminal" but I don't know what or where that is. Can anyone help me out with a photo or good description?

TIA!

 

[Audiofyl]

my guess is the terminal is under the drivers side dash under the relay bank. there's about 6 or 7 terminals that are marked. some are constant 12v, I believe one is switched and I'm unsure of the others. That is under the dash, under the black cover to the left of the clutch pedal (or brake pedal for those without a clutch)

 

[SUNRG]

Hi Herm,
I am interested in the Stanadyne 2 micron filter system. Which part numbers did you get for your kit (head, element, botom bowl?)?
Thanks

33462 - head unit <u>with</u> 4.3" 5-micron element (92% efficient at removing 2-micron and larger particulates at 45gph, 97% at 5-micron, 95% at removing <u>emulsified</u> water, 98% at removing whole (free) water): $33.20

31873 - 5-micron replacement element: $13.87

35160 - (optional) side mount 100watt/12volt thermostatically controlled fuel filter heater: $39.54

 

[SUNRG]

Straight from the manufacturers, both using ISO/TR 13353.

A4 OEM/MANN:

The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353

Stanadyne FM100 5-micron:

Average Particle Retention Efficiency (at 5-micron) Per ISO TR 13353, Sec. 6.2 - >97% @ 170 lph (45 gph)

link

I recently spoke with Herm, who has been using the FM100 for three years, and he prefers the 5-micron media to the 2-micron because it's significantly less restrictive, yet as illustrated on the graph above, it still is 92-93% efficient at filtering 2-micron particulates at 45gph. Our TDIs fuel flow is estimated (by Racor) to be ~18gph, so the efficiencies we would see would be even higher than those posted by Stanadyne at 45gph.

 

[Dweebus]

Sunrg,

Are you replacing your OEM filter with this or adding this after the OEM? I would like to get one of these to replace the OEM filter but am unsure how to deal with the fuel return. (I email Herm for pics a week ago, but didn't get anything back)
Also, why did you decide on the side mount mount heater rather than the top mount? Looks like the top mount penetrates deeper into the filter.
Thanks!

 

[SUNRG]

Sunrg,

Are you replacing your OEM filter with this or adding this after the OEM?

Replacing the OEM. I've been doing a lot of filter restriction testing lately, and there's no way to add a polishing filter to a stock OEM system (after the OEM filter) without increasing the restriction the fuel pump has to overcome very significantly. It could possibly be achieved by adding another pump, but I'm trying to see if there's a way to vastly improve filtering efficeincy, with a simple and inexpensive upgrade to OEM [a]and</u> similar or lower than OEM restriction.

The CAT2 is definitely a good option, but the FM100 adds water blocking/draining, and if it's less restrictive and less expensive...

Wednesday I'm testing the FM100, and should have some results to post no later than Thursday. If you can, wait until I post my results before buying (it may save you some money).

I would like to get one of these to replace the OEM filter but am unsure how to deal with the fuel return.

My plan is to remove the T and allow the fuel to return directly to the fuel cooler / tank. Since the FM100 has a thermostatically controlled fuel heater <u>and</u> because I use Stanadyne Performance Formula every tank year-round, I'm confident that I can remove the thermostatic T from the OEM system without any problems. And, instead of splicing the two OEM lines together where the T will be removed, I will run one new uninterrupted line. Fittings increase system restriction, so eliminating any unnecessary fittings is a good idea.

I honestly don't even think the fuel filter heater is necessary, if you have well treated winter fuel and you drain water from your filter regularly. And, the Stanadyne will remove a much higher percentage of water from our fuel than the OEM (A4 and prior) filters ever have.

Also, why did you decide on the side mount mount heater rather than the top mount?

Space. [the final frontier...]

The mounting sites I'm deciding between all have space limitations - primarily height. The side mount heater does not increase the height of the complete assembly.

Herm doesn't have pics from his A4 install any longer, but by Thursday I should have pics that I'll post.

<u>If</u> this all works out, I should have pics posted here by the end of this week.

 

[Dweebus]

Thanks very much for the reply Sunrg. I just bought an A3, so I was trying to figure out what I'm going to do about the fuel filter. I can probably tough it out for a week though. The A4 won't need a change for 1000 miles.
The FM100 does sound much better than the cat filter (and cheaper), so why is the cat so popular?

 

[whitedog]

so why is the cat so popular?

**Waiting breathlessly for an answer...**

 

[robnitro]

Marketing??? Or maybe because it is the only plug and play solution yet?

 

[whitedog]

Marketing???

Man... If I were David Banner, I would turn green whenever I heard that word.

 

[SUNRG]

Marketing??? Or maybe because it is the only plug and play solution yet?

the CAT2 is a good system, it's plug and play, it encorporates the fuel return T... it's well done and proven.

the FM100 is proven as well, superhero mechanic Herm has been using it for 3 years, but you have to come up with a mounting solution yourself, you have to go out and buy all the fittings and hoses yourself, and there's no "How-To" for it (yet) so every install is unique and more challenging than it needs to be. i don't even know if my install is going to work yet or return restriction numbers that i'll be satisfied with. i think it will, but by the weekend we will all know for certain...

 

[SUNRG]

the FM100 arrived today. it's an incredible design. and i have a mounting location that will allow use of the 6.0" element (FM100 filter elements come in 5 length options: 2.8, 3.6, 4.3 (which comes standard with the $33 33642 assembly), 5.1 and 6.0 inches). the FM100 features a no-tool and no-leak/spill element removal and replacement.

33642 assembly:

simply twist off the lock ring and the keyed filter element slides off:

here's a peek inside the element and the underside of the FM100 head:

the install begins - more pics and details to come...

 

[gearhead]

A4 OEM/MANN:
The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353

Is that efficiency rating of the "new" / current OEM Bosch/Mahle A4 filter (with plastic caps)? http://sustainablepower.net/TDI/images/OEM_filter_2.jpg

 

[SUNRG]

A4 OEM/MANN:
The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353

Is that efficiency rating of the "new" / current OEM Bosch/Mahle A4 filter (with plastic caps)?

no, that's the rating of the old style. i don't have a contact at Bosch/Mahle to get the rating fo the new style.

 

[SUNRG]

How To: Stanadyne 5-micron Fuel Filter Upgrade

<font color="blue">Here's the Install / How To: </font>

First remove the OEM fuel filter, bracket and all hoses going to and from it:

install all fittings on FM100. for the fuel send and return lines i used 3/8 > 1/8 NPT bushings, then 1/8 NPT > 5/16 hose barb fittings. since the ID of 1/8 fitting is still larger than the ID of 5/16 barb ends this setup enables full flow (as little restriction as a 5/16" based system can have).

Note: OEM fittings are all 5/16" so while using 3/8" hose and clamping it down hard to prevent leaks is possible, i saw no reduction in restriction when i setup previous systems using one hose size versus the other, so IMO it's best to go with the OEM size fuel lines. i just got my fuel hose from Auto Zone. it's 50psi diesel rated Goodyear fuel hose. i bought 8' of hose but had more than 2' left over.

i also installed the option 100watt fuel heater and a drag-pointer restriction guage. use teflon tape on all NPT fittings.

the key to the simplicity of this install is that no bracket is needed. just drill two 5/16" holes in the sheetmetal, grind the lip off a small section of the sheet metal and bolt it on. i used 1/4" stainless steel hardware. [the extra hole in the sheetmetal to the right of the filter is from a pre-filter that i had mounted in that spot to test previously. for the perfect fit (if i were to do this again) i would position the filter about 1/2" further towards the driver's side.]

to enable the FM100 mounting bracket to sit flush against the sheet metal, a small section of this little lip must be ground away:

i used a dremmel tool and this saw bit, and it took the lip off easily in just a couple of minutes:

now run the fuel lines:

stick the engine cover back on and you're done! welcome to >97% filtration efficiency at 5-microns and 92-93% filtration efficiency at 2-microns!

the install is so slick and easy, and the fuel line routing is so clean that, without the restriction guage, it looks like OEM equipment.

i restriction tested an old style A4 OEM/Mann filter (with 10k miles on it) and a new style A4 OEM/Mahle filter (with 300 miles on it) yesturday - and according to my guage, the max restriction, WOT accelorating to 4500rpm was nearly 10"Hg with both filter options. on my way to my office now, the max restriction the FM100 showed was 7"Hg, but i want to drive hard with it a lot more to firmly establish the max restriction over say a 10k fuel filter change interval. if restriction increase is still minimal after 10k i'll keep using it for up to one year (roughly 25k).

<u>changing</u> the FM100 fuel filter is so incredibly easy! just twist loosen the lock ring and you can pull the filter element right out without spilling a drop. i test pulled it off, just to see if there was adequate space and how easy it would be, and it's perfect. i will definitely replace the 4.3" stock element with the 6.0" 5-micron in the future.

basic setup: $33 filter assembly, ~$8 brass fuel line fittings, ~$8 fuel hose, ~$4 stainless steel hardware = $53 total

options: fuel filter heater $39, drag pointer restriction guage $58

replacement elements: 4.3" ~$14, 6.0" $15-16

 

[whitedog]

OK. That is just too slick. You do have to bleed that filter at the plastic bleed screw, correct?

Did I miss the part number for the filter? I know where I can scavange a similar head, but I know from sad experience that the notches are different for different filters.

If I had the part Number and filter name, I could cross it to a Deere number and see if I have the right head.

Edit: OK, I see "Fuel manager" and "31873". is that correct? Do you have a different number such as a Fleetguard number or even a NAPA number would probably work.